After a rough patch, business in NYC’s Garment District is starting to pick up.

For decades, fashion mavens and budding designers have flocked to the quadrant between 34th and 42nd Streets, hedged in by 5th and 9th Avenues. Here, in New York City’s Garment District, fabric can be purchased, patterns made, pieces sewn, trimming added, and dreams realized, all in the space of a few blocks. Designers like Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and Oscar de la Renta have all made the Garment District their home at a point in their careers, and countless others got their start in the neighborhood. At one time, the Garment District was the global hub of textile manufacturing. But not anymore.

“The only thing that has not changed is the location,” says Anthony Lilore, owner of RESTORE Clothing and a founder of the Save the Garment Center movement. “The physical appearance has gone from streets packed with garment racks and push carts, to some racks, some push carts, and some rickshaws with tourists.”

Indeed, over the past fifty years, the Garment District has seen a steady decline in business, owing primarily to overseas outsourcing, mostly to China. When that picked up in the early 1990s, family-owned companies in business for generations were forced to shut their doors, and designers, burdened by the higher rents and rising costs of working in midtown Manhattan, moved elsewhere. Most of those who have survived the downturn and recession say they’re hanging on by a hair.

“At this point, it’s a labor of love,” says Maria Lipari-Bertone, whose family has run Quality Patterns, which specializes in grading and marking, for more than forty years. “This is our bread and butter. Many of us came from overseas, and we made our lives in the Garment District.”

But there are signs of revitalization. At New York’s first City Source Expo, held January 10 at the Fashion Institute of Technology, more than fifty producers, suppliers, and pattern makers turned out to field questions and take orders from attendees interested in local production. Several vendors said that they’re starting to see an uptick in sales, mostly due to China’s rising “minimums” for new orders, a weak dollar, and higher shipping costs. Lipari-Bertone says that many new designers can no longer afford to work in China, so they’re starting to inquire into local production again.

Plus, in recent years groups like Save the Garment Center, Made in Midtown, and the Garment Industry Development Corporation have surfaced to advocate for Garment District preservation and serve as a resource for designers interested in manufacturing there. Backed by New York fashion industry vets like Nanette Lepore, Anna Sui, Jason Wu, and Yeohlee Teng, these groups emphasize the district’s historical, creative, and economic value to the city of Manhattan.

Made in Midtown says:

Ultimately, this story is about much more than fashion. It’s about one of the last neighborhoods in Manhattan that has not yet been remade by recent waves of new development. It’s about jobs and immigrant workers. It’s about the decisions city officials make to support certain kinds of businesses.

And for designers interested in sustainability, a one-stop-shop like the Garment District means a more compact production process, which eliminates the costs, both financial and environmental, of working with subcontractors in different parts of the world.

“The quality of craftsmanship and the concentration of schools, designers, sample rooms, showrooms, production, and stores make the Garment Center the only one of its kind anywhere,” says Lilore.

Mother/Daughter founders Judy Pezdir and Jill Palermo of WE ADD UP

WE ADD UP is a progressive global campaign utilizing organic cotton t-shirts as a tool to count you in the fight against global warming.

Every shirt is printed by hand with a number representing your place in the sequential global count of all the people who are taking steps to help stop climate change. On the back of each shirt is a word or phrase that describes an action wearers promote to reduce their carbon footprint – Unplug, Lights Off, Carpool, Hybrid, Bike, Buy Local and 18 others.

Created by mother-daughter team Judy Pezdir and Jill Palermo, WE ADD UP’s goal is to get millions of people around the world counted in and committed to helping stop global warming.

I recently caught up with Jill Palermo.

We Add up started how?

My Mom and I were having dinner out at a restaurant. I was feeling kinda hopeless and overwhelmed about everything – and trying to hide my tears behind my wine glass. I felt very alone in this feeling and then had a burst of inspiration – I bet other people feel this way, too. Maybe alone our efforts don’t seem like much, but together we do add up.

Out of your 24 shirts the “Shower Together” t-shirt is most popular. Kitschy or do you think people really are?

Trust me, people really are. We do green events all around the country where I get to meet lots of folks and I know a little too much about a lot of people. “Shower Together” is a conversation-starter, perhaps more than any of the tees, and that’s the whole point of the project. So, we think it’s effective, if not over-sharing.

Do you think the success of the best-selling t-shirts is a predictor for green trends?

Absolutely. For example, we’ve been surprised how many people are composting, which is great.  People usually pick from our 29 actions the one they are most passionate about, so it does become a barometer of green trends. Our top-selling actions, besides Shower Together, are: Plant Trees, Recycle, Bike, Buy Local, Drink Tap, Compost, and Demand Change.

Tell me about some of the fundraising efforts We Add Up has been a part of.

First of all, we offer We Add Up as a fundraising program for schools and non-profits. So far, over 100 groups have participated in our online and offline fundraisers. Basically, a group signs up. It’s free to start and free to run. They sell the shirts to their community, inviting them to choose a green action to commit to. And, they receive 15% of the sale.

We have contests and cash prizes for top sellers, too. It’s a replacement fundraiser for candy and wrapping paper, giving environmental clubs in schools an opportunity to raise money while also raising awareness about the environment. Secondly, We Add Up partners with a different non-profit for each t-shirt. $1-3 is donated for each shirt sold to a group that is working on the solution the shirt promotes. Some of our current partners include Sustainable Harvest International, The Green Project in New Orleans, and Take Back the Tap.

What’s your first reaction to the question: “Are you a retailer, a champion for a cause or an entrepreneur?

Yes.