ColumnIs tea the new coffee?

My father has always had a tea obsession.

He is known for brewing batches for way too long – above and beyond the recommended steeping time, resulting in the kind of strong, black tea that is on the verge of undrinkable. My mother and I sit on the couch, taking each sip with a slight cringe and rolling our eyes at each other while my father sits in his reading chair, oblivious to the fact that anyone could have a lower tolerance for that kind of tea strength. Just as I can’t go a day without good coffee, my father can’t be left without a substantial pot of tea. He has special mugs for various blends and there’s an entire shelf above our kitchen windows that holds an assortment of metallic tea tins, all full of loose leaf.

As a child, on weekend trips to the city we would always stop at his favorite tea house so he could buy tea in bulk. As a semi-bored 9-year-old, I explored the attached book store wondering why they couldn’t just serve hot chocolate; I wasn’t ready for a dozen types of Oolong. But somewhere along the line, these jaunts created an appreciation for good tea in me, preferably black.

Tea culture is different from that of coffee, or any other warm drink for that matter. I am reminded of this by the quote that hangs by my father’s reading chair:

To the right, books; to the left, a tea-cup. In front of me, the fireplace; behind me, the post. There is no greater happiness than this. – Teiga

Coffee might be our fuel for the day, but tea is the calming element that we need to unwind with.

The United States isn’t high on the list of global tea drinkers – a whole 0.2 kilograms per person annually, compared to Britain’s 2.3 – and the drink has nothing on its caffeinated counterpart. In 2010 the tea industry in the U.S. accounted for $7.7 billion, whereas coffee stood at $47.5 billion.

But just as you can buy 12 ounce bags of coffee beans for $60, premium cups of tea have been known to go for double digits, and specialty tea culture is on the rise. Just a couple of weeks ago, I found myself nursing a concoction of Bourbon and Lapsang Souchong; I phoned my father immediately upon exiting the bar. If tea that tastes like a campfire is making its way into strong whiskey drinks, we should take notice.

Is tea the new foodie drink of choice? Although we’ve been drinking it for over 5,000 years, tea has taken a new turn in the food world. Rooibos has been deemed the “new pomegranate juice,” there are whole online communities devoted to discussing the drink, antioxidants have never had so much positive marketing, design bloggers are making their own tea bags, and don’t even get me started on the matcha craze. Sidenote: for the best matcha latte, check out The Fix in Nevada City.

Tea is striking it big time, and there’s a personality for every cup of it, just like there is for coffee. If double Americanos define the hip and edgy crowd, so do specialty black teas and the aforementioned Rooibos, while the fruitier blends attract a similar crowd as the double foam, no sugar, mocha something or other. Think about the first impression you’re making next time you share what’s in your reusable tea mug with a built in infuser. Not that I would ever pass foodie judgement on anyone.

And unlike those pumpkin spiced lattes that you guiltily love yet can’t seem to find the time to make at home, in turn forcing you to keep frequenting that coffee shop, getting creative with tea recipes is as easy as throwing some spices together. Start easy with a recipe like Coconut Mango, and if you’re really feeling up for it, whip up a few batches of Chai. A homemade tea blend not only says you’re on the cutting edge of foodie-dom, but you’ll end up with a nice hostess present to give at the next dinner party. So much more creative than that bottle of wine you were debating on sassing up with a fun ribbon.

Tea just might be finding its foodie stride, and in our overworked, stressed out culture, might be just the calming agent we need. I think Lao-Tzu said it best:

Drinking tea, eating rice, passing time as it comes; looking down at the stream, looking up at the mountains.

That’s a mindset we could all drink to.

Editor’s note: This is the latest installment of Anna Brones’s weekly column at EcoSalon, Foodie Underground, discovering what’s new and different in the underground food movement, from supper clubs to mini markets to the culinary avant garde.

Images: Anna Brones

ColumnYour guide to throwing your own Swedish Midsummer celebration.

This week marks the summer solstice, and if there’s any place that knows how to celebrate this time of year, it’s Sweden. Its northern latitude makes the winters dark and long and the summers light and short, which means there’s plenty of reason to celebrate the official start to the summer season which kicks off at midsommar.

Midsommar was originally celebrated on June 24, but in 1953 was moved to the nearest Saturday – you can’t have a big celebration in the middle of the week after all. The real celebration is the Friday night before, on Midsommarafton – Midsummer’s Eve –  the time when you gather your friends and families, cover long tables in an array of traditional food, put up a midsummer pole and sing songs as you drink Aquavit, or snaps as the Swedes call it.

I get nostalgic around this time, pining after the land where the sun barely sets and the party thrown in celebration of the season continues into the wee hours of the morning. It’s a day of food, friends and tradition.

Sweden might be small when it comes to population, but in terms of food and culture, the country carries some weight, and with the Scandinavian takeover in the culinary world, midsummer and its traditions has made its way across the Atlantic, which for the rest of us, means the chance to drink artisanal Aquavit without the plane ride.

Here’s the quick guide to the essentials for throwing your own midsummer celebration.

Drinks

A standard in Scandinavian liquor cabinets, Aquavit is less of a tradition here on the other side of the Atlantic, but two artisanal distilleries are making a name for themselves with classic renditions: North Shore Distillery in Chicago, Illinois and House Spirits Distillery in Portland, Oregon.

Want to truly go underground? Make your own. You can turn practically anything into a good snaps, you just need flavorful herbs and spices, or even berries – anything from dill to ginger to raspberries – and a bottle of vodka. Let store in a cool, dark place for at least a few days, and taste to gauge flavor. To increase the taste, you can also add in a couple pinches of sugar.

Chive and Lemon Snaps (adapted from GP.se)

• 10 minutes + 1 week
• 750 ml bottle of vodka
• ½ teaspoon sugar
• 4 stalks of chives
• lemon zest of 1 lemon

Combine all ingredients in bottles and let stand in cool, dark place for at least 1 week. Shake bottle every few days. When ready, strain vodka as chives lose their color if left in too long.

To complete the drinking process, you’ll also need a good snapsvisa or two, songs sung specifically in conjunction with the drinking of aquavit. Start with the classic Helan Går.

Main course

Midsommar food is easy and it all starts with a good base of pickled herring, salmon and potatoes with dill. In New York, the go-to spot for pickled herring is Russ & Daughters, but if you’re located on one of the coasts, you can often find it at local seafood markets, or even make your own.

To top off the fish, serve up a classic dill mustard sauce, taken from my kitchen staple, Vår Kokbok:

• 3 tablespoons mustard
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• pinch salt
• pinch pepper
• 1 tablespoon vinegar
• 1/2 cup cup olive oil
• 1/2 cup chopped dill

Mix mustard, sugar, salt, pepper and vinegar in a bowl. Add oil in a slow and steady stream, whisking quickly the entire time. If oil is added too quickly in the beginning, it will separate from the rest of the sauce. Once oil has been added and sauce has been mixed, whisk in dill just before serving. Serve over fish and potatoes.

Dessert

If you’re lucky enough to live in New York, you might take inspiration from Sockerbit, a store devoted to serving up the best of lösgodis, Sweden’s popular bulk candy; no midsummer is complete without a few bowls of colorful candy carefully placed around the room. Other dessert necessities are strawberries, whipped cream and maybe even a good chocolate cake. I like to make a big batch of chokladbollar (pictured at the top) – easy to make, delicious and totally unhealthy.

• 1 stick of butter
• 3/4 cup of sugar
• 3 tablespoons of cocoa powder
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 2-3 tablespoons water
• 2.5 cups oats
• 1/2 cup shredded coconut
• Optional: 1 tablespoon ground coffee

Cream together butter and sugar. Mix in cocoa, vanilla, water and oats (if you’re adding in coffee, mix in as well). Form mixture into small balls, and roll in coconut to cover them. Refrigerate until serving.

Find yourself a rustic picnic table, cover it in wildflowers and let the party begin. Glad midsommar!

Editor’s note: This is the latest installment of Anna Brones’s weekly column at EcoSalon, Foodie Underground, discovering what’s new and different in the underground food movement, from supper clubs to mini markets to the culinary avant garde.

Images: Anna Brones

Creeping ever closer to the McDonald’s model, Starbucks has poured it on with the new Trenta serving size. Do we need another supersize product that tempts our taste buds and throws rationality out the door? Of course not. No one should be drinking 31 ounces of double, mocha, frappy, whatever.

But we can’t blame Starbucks. Sure, the new cup can hold an entire bottle of wine (wait, does Starbucks sell wine?), but the company is a business, functioning on the principles of supply and demand, which means the coffee giant is marketing to a nation of consumers who are compelled to go bigger.

What drives us to big over small, more over less, when we know there are smarter choices?

To put it in the words of a friend who minces no words: “Maybe we’re just a confederacy of super dunces.”

Maybe. But as Sara Ost put it today, “you’re powerful,” and that means you can and should opt against 31 ounce drinks, unless of course it’s water. When it comes to food, it’s tempting to grab the fast, cheap and easy, but we all know that the real costs are externalized.

The less is more attitude when it comes to food is nothing new. Choosing less instead of more isn’t just beneficial to your physical health, it also keeps you more sane. Pick up any women’s magazine and you’ll find an article on simplifying your life. We spend ample amounts of time and money on organizational products, from planners to shelving systems, and yet we can’t seem to slim down our pantries.

How do we go about doing that?

1. Make a list. Check it twice.

Take a moment to go through your refrigerator, rethink your core items and narrow your shopping list to healthier options. Review your go-to recipes for the week and make a list of the staples that you need to keep on hand. Having a go to selection of fruits, vegetables and grains will mean you can whip together a handful of simple recipes without going beyond the basics.

2. Stick to what you know.

Trust your gut. Despite our love for Amy’s ready-made meals, we can’t rely on processed microwave dinners even if they’re vegan and organic. It’s too easy to let our brains slip in the heat of an eating moment. Try to keep your healthy, rational self in check.

3. Commit to reducing.

Maybe it’s your guilty pleasure of afternoon pudding cups or a morning break of a muffin, but above all, start small. No one is asking you to revolutionize your cooking ways, but just like you slowly start cutting out single use plastics and replacing them with reusable bags, you can do the same with your food choices. Organic dinner party? Check. All fruit smoothie instead of the double whipped vanilla latte? Check. Handful of almonds instead a snack bag of Cheetos? Check. After all, constraints don’t limit your creativity, they fuel it.

Image: jenny downing

Country Living (the British version) arrived at my parents’ house on Christmas Eve. It’s a personal favorite of my mother’s and mine. We sat on the couch drinking coffee and flipping through the pages that immediately take you to another world filled with delightful accents, elevenses and quaint, snow-covered gardens. Not to mention all of the various food ideas and photos. The magazine is like food and decorating porn all in one.

I quickly made my way to the back section which always features a collection of recipes. I stopped at a page with a photo of glass bottles with big corks, labeled simply with tape and black cursive writing, “Whiskey” and “Cranberry Vodka.” A “Trio of Liqueurs” said the recipe. “If you make a selection of liqueurs as gifts for Christmas you will have the satisfaction of seeing the fruits of your labors lined up gently deepening in color as they mature.” I grabbed a pen and scribbled the recipe that called for whiskey, orange rind, cloves and figs. That sounded like something I should have on hand in the new year.

Handmade hooch. Not only fit for gifting during this season, but a growing trend in foodie circles. Nothing says “this person knows what they’re doing” more than pulling out a home-brewed liqueur at a dinner party. It’s chic, edgy and fun. Which is probably why smaller, craft distilleries are having new found levels of success. That and the fact that home distilling in the United States is still illegal, making way for the small, craft producers, that have the necessary permits in place.

The New York Times recently covered a selection of city professionals turned distillery masters, in a quest for not only good tasting alcohol but a return to a simpler time, that honors agricultural heritage, and even urbanites on a newfound quest to craft something delicious and different that will wow their friends.

Distilling obviously takes a little more finesse and work than simply pouring a few cups of whiskey in a bottle, adding some spices and making sure you take the time to turn it every few days. But the idea is the same: create something new, different and maybe even a little off the wall. As Chris Weld, of Berkshire Mountain Distillers, told the New York Times, “We have the ability to diversify wildly. We can make a fruit brandy one day and a whiskey the next.”

Brandies, gins, fruit liqueurs – the options are seemingly endless, and as the trend grows, small distilleries continue to pop up with new offerings, meaning your liquor cabinet has very few limits to what it can be stocked with. If you’ve already gotten on the craft beer bandwagon, craft gin and even more risqué absinthe can’t be far behind.

Meanwhile, if you’re looking to stick to the DIY method, keep with the artisan liqueurs. They’re easy, perfectly legal and will certainly up your dinner hostess status. Cheers!

Editor’s note: This is the latest installment of Anna Brones’s column at EcoSalon, Foodie Underground. Each week, Anna will be taking a look at something new and different that’s taking place in the underground food movement, from supper clubs to mini markets to culinary avant garde.

Image: sunshinecity

Rain is beating down on the filmy window, yellow lights are blinking like friendly fireflies on the spruced up pine, and your couture edition Snuggie is nowhere in sight. Now is the time to bypass that chalice of chilly organic grape and sip a warm eggnog or Irish Coffee by the toasty fire. In addition to tasting delicious, hot cocktails take the edge off of shopping at the mall and visiting with intense relatives for weeks at a time.

Dirty little secret: I store my own personal flask of peppermint schnapps in a drawer in the guest bathroom at my mother’s manse. You never know when the mood will strike for something hot and medicinal while lounging with Nana and watching marathon reruns of The Nanny and Golden Girls.

If you aren’t leaving home and entertaining during the holidays, offering these options is a way to bring the ambiance of the ski resort into your pad. Here are a few recipes to consider for adding cheer to your holiday this year:

1. Burning Bush

This new spin on the old Hot Toddy calls for Bushmills Original Irish Whiskey (this is where its name is derived, not from the book Exodus) along with honey, hot water and a lemon wedge garnish. Created by New Yorker, Jim Meehan, it is simple to prepare:

Place the lemon wedge in the glass, add 1 1/2 oz of whiskey , 3 oz of the hot water. Stir, don’t shake, and chill.

2. Orange Anise Mulled Wine

You can have fun with varieties of mulled wine in your crockery cooker this time of year, and this recipe delights all your senses with the aroma of seasonal spices and citrus. It requires 2 bottles of Shiraz; 1/4 cup of packed brown sugar; 1 stick of cinnamon; 3 star anise; 1 tsp whole cloves; 1 orange; Orange peel strips.

First, remove the orange peel with a peeler and cut and peel into strips. Then squeeze the juice and discard the seeds and pulp. In a 5-quart crockery cooker combine the juice, wine and brown sugar. For your spice bag, tie the orange peel, cinnamon, star anise and whole cloves in a cheesecloth bag, and add to the cooker. Cover and cook on low for six hours to simmer the flavors. Serve in punch cups or pretty mugs.

3. Starbucks Hot Mocha Cocktail

If you’re a coffee or cocoa hound, you will love this espresso drink made in a saucepan using Starbucks coffee liqueur. It calls for 4 1/4 cups whole organic milk; 4 oz. Starbucks liqueur; 3 cinnamon sticks broken in half; 3 cups espresso; 1 1/2 cups healthy sweetener; 1/2 cup powdered sugar; 1 cup whipping cream; 1 cup cocoa powder.

To make, mix milk and cinnamon sticks in a heavy saucepan and simmer over a high heat. Remove, cover and steep for 15 minutes. Whisk espresso, sweetener and 1 cup of cocoa powder and bring the hot chocolate to a simmer, whisking frequently. Throw out cinnamon sticks and add the Starbucks coffee liqueur. Add the cream and whisk until thick. Ladle the cocoa into 8 mugs. Spoon chocolate whipped cream on top and serve.

4. Hot Apple Pie Cocktail

Apple cider is a popular winter treat and this cocktail is easy to make and very pleasing. Put aside 2 1/2 cups Simply Apple Juice and 4 cinnamon sticks; 1 tbsp lemon juice; 2 tsp. vanilla extract; 1/2 tsp. allspice; 1/4 tsp ground cardamon; 4 small scoops of organic low fat vanilla frozen yogurt; 4 oz. apple schnapps.

Place the apple juice, cinnamon sticks, lemon juice, vanilla, allspice and cardamom in a medium saucepan and warm it for two to three minutes over a medium heat, stirring until mixture is hot and spices are blended. Add in schnapps and divide among 4 mugs, topping with the yogurt.

5. Christmas Punch

An ideal choice for a big group, this English favorite blends rum with citrus and seasonings and has a pretty presentation – whether in a common bowl or grandma’s punchbowl. The recipe includes 4 pt. water; 1 lb. sugar; juice and rinds of three lemons; one bottle of rum; one bottle of ruby port; grated nutmeg; a sliced apple and a sliced orange.

Make it by boiling the water, sugar and lemon rinds in a saucepan. Cool and strain. Add the rum, port and lemon juice and transfer the liquid into a pre-warmed punch bowl. Float the fruit slices on top and sprinkle with the savory nutmeg. After three or four cups, that home wax kit he gave you won’t seem as offensive. Merry mixing!

A popular invention for those who like it straight: If you dislike fruity blends and need that whiskey straight, you can get it to an excellent room temperature using Whiskey Stones - innovative soapstone cubes that look hot and do the trick.

Images: Silly Little Man, Sanfranannie; Charityworld; Insidious; Haleynealphotography; Polkadotcreations

If you haven’t understood my love for kombucha, you mustn’t been spending enough time reading Foodie Underground. But as I discussed a couple of months ago, there’s really no point in spending $4-5 on bottled fermented tea when you can make your own. And if there was ever a time to commit to brewing your own kombucha, it’s now.

Why? Last week Whole Foods pulled all the kombucha from their shelves because testing showed that the drink might have elevated alcohol levels that would necessitate a government warning. Kombucha certainly isn’t up their in the ranks with wine and beer, but according to the law, products containing 0.5 percent or more of alcohol have to carry a government warning.

The concerns over elevated alcohol levels may or may not be justified, but a couple dozen of Whole Foods’ kombucha suppliers agreed to a voluntary withdrawal of the product. To understand just what 0.5 percent alcohol content means, think of a can of non-alcoholic beer, a drink that has an alcohol content of less than 0.5 percent of its volume. In other words, we’re certainly not talking Friday night drinks with the ladies, so you can keep chugging on that kombucha guilt-free.

But if you are looking for a way to spice up your cocktail hour (and in response to our “should kombucha be your party drink?” question, we say “yes!”), here are a couple of kombucha inspired drinks that should do the trick.

The Basic

• 1 part vodka
• 1 part tonic water or club soda
• 1 part Kombucha

Pour over ice

Note: if you want to get fancy, throw in a splash of juice concentrate or a liqueur. My personal favorite is crème de cassis.

The Mojito

• 1 cup plain Kombucha
• 1 lime quatered
• 6 mint leaves
• ice
• mineral water
• 4-6 drops of stevia
• 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
• a shake of sea salt (optional)

Muddle mint with lime in a tall glass and add the rest.

I haven’t personally tried this one, but discovered it recently and it’s on the “drink to-do list.”

Make Your Own

If you’re feeling extra feisty, create your own kombucha cocktail. Need help? Mombucha, sold at the Brooklyn’s popular Green Point Food Market, recommends blending with bourbon, whiskey or scotch. Vodka and rum are also great candidates. Now get to mixing.

Non-Alcoholic But Still Fun

Smoothies are certainly the way to go if you want a non-alcoholic pick me up that includes kombucha. Here’s a basic recipe to play with:

• 10 ounces orange
• 4 ounces Kombucha tea
• 5-6 large fresh strawberries OR 1 cup of chopped pineapple
• 1-2 large bananas
• Other fruits to throw in at your discretion: blueberries, raspberries, cherries, etc.

Blend all ingredients until smooth. Enjoy!

Editor’s note: This is the latest installment of Anna Brones’s column at EcoSalon, Foodie Underground. Each week, Anna will be taking a look at something new and different that’s taking place in the underground food movement, from supper clubs to mini markets to culinary avant garde.

Image: Anna Brones