Column“Best regards and please continue to bark up the right tree.”

These were the closing words of wisdom I received from Oliver Heintz, founder and managing director behind BARK CLOTH®. His email salutation is potentially playful or maybe meant to leave a mark on your memory. Regardless, through this signature, I was inevitably inspired to trek deeper into deconstructing the fibers of the forest, to uncover the origins of two sustainable materials in particular: bark cloth and Lenzing’s tencel.

BARK CLOTH

Derived from the Mutuba tree (wild common fig), Heintz’s BARK CLOTH® is the pioneer in developing fabric from this wood-based material; they have been cooperating with small-scale organic farmers in Uganda since 1999. Traditionally, bark cloth is manufactured by the Baganda people; in their process, the inner bark is harvested during the rainy season, and then transformed into a soft fabric by using various wooden hammers. With such an organic creation process, bark cloth can have extensive varying textures and shades of brown.

It may seem perplexing to imagine bark as a material that you could actually wear. But remarkably, the process of stripping bark from trees and removing the soft inner layer to make it into softer, wearable garments – like loincloths and purses – is thought to have been around since 4,000 B.C., where it began in southeastern China. For the Ugandan-Germany family venture BARK CLOTH®, the material’s essence is undeniably distinguished: “Its strong contrast between archaic authenticity and state-of-the-art textile finishing processes generates a convincing effect for nearly unlimited applications.”

In the nineteenth century, bark cloth production slowed with the introduction of cotton cloth by Arab traders. However, the Baganda people have continued to embrace this traditional craft, particularly for their cultural and spiritual functions. UNESCO even named “the art of bark cloth making in Uganda” as a World Cultural Heritage site in 2008.

Bark Cloth – available on Source4Style

With roots of holistic capacities, the source – the Mutuba tree – serves as a significant sustainable resource in East Africa. It is considered one of the most multipurpose plants, especially in areas where intensive banana-coffee lakeshore land use systems are in place. Its roots transfer nutrients from deep soil areas closer to the surface, while its canopy above shades the banana and coffee shrub. Not only does the Mutumba’s presence boost crop yields, but it also serves as construction wood, fast growing firewood, its leaves rot quickly and function as an excellent fertilizer, and it also possesses medicinal properties – tea can be made from its leaves to treat a sore throat, while the tree’s latex is a skin ointment to cover wounds.

A refined, more “finished” variation of bark cloth, BARKTEX® seems to be proving just as multifaceted as its mother tree. Currently, DLR Aerospace Centre is testing it for use in airplane wings, while the company is also cooperating with the Freiburg Rainforest Institute in an effort to develop ecologically, economically, and socially sustainable materials for use in sports equipment and outdoor gear.

Bark cloth belts at Christian Siriano SS11 at NYFW

And, yes – bark cloth has now pounded its way into the high-end fashion sector as well. As one of the earliest members of Source4Style, Christian Siriano discovered the material through their sourcing platform, and designed a collection of belts that were featured in his Spring 2011 Collection at New York Fashion Week. Others have fashioned bark cloth into trench coats, shoes, and mind-blowing gorgeous dresses.

DIY extraordinaire and author of P.S. I Made This, Erica Domesek, recently acquired a bundle of bark cloth.

As she tells EcoSalon, “One of the beauties of what I do is that I’m attracted to materials. It’s kind of like when you buy a really nice dress, and you save it for a special occasion. I’m that way with materials – I hold onto them until I know exactly what I want to do. The bark cloth is definitely not an everyday material – it’s something special.”

We can’t wait to see what fabulous creation Domesek evolves from the wood-ware, when the time is right to let it shine.

TENCEL

TENCEL® is a fiber procured from the wood pulp of eucalyptus trees, and produced by Lenzing, the only fiber producer in the world to possess the European Union Eco-label. So, to chop it down to the basics: excess wood pulp is processed into a thread that can be woven into super-soft tencel fabric.

U.S. Marketing Manager of Lenzing, Tricia Carey tries to break it down for us. Basically, Lenzing purchases FSC-Certified wood pulp, then adds a non-toxic solvent called amine oxide. This solvent goes through a closed loop cycle and then the fiber is extruded through the spinnerettes and cut into specific staple lengths.

Not only is tencel biodegradable, its fibral makeup is innately formatted for comfort. As you can see by the above image, the surface of tencel is smoother and more supple; wool tends to be more scaly, while cotton is irregular and rough in texture.

“Tencel has been commercial for 20 years and in that time the expansion has been amazing. Most recently we have seen more use in activewear garments and denim. Tencel is used at retailers like J. Crew, Banana Republic, Gap, Nordstrom, Victoria’s Secret, Ann Taylor, Club Monaco, Target, J. Jill, Macy’s and more,” Carey tells EcoSalon.

J.Crew Tencel Shirt

As cotton production becomes more difficult to keep up with due to population increases, economics, water waste, and inconsistent climate shifts, man made cellulosic fibers (MMCF) may be the fabrics of the future.

Carey tells EcoSalon, “We can clearly see the demands on the earth will continue to increase as the global population continues to grow.  Land will be needed for food crops and water for drinking. There is a ‘Cellulosic Gap’ where there will be a demand for more regenerated cellulosic fibers, like viscose, modal and TENCEL®.”

So, what does the future of fashionable fabrics hold for us? And, will cotton no longer be the fabric of our lives?

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Image: Raymond Meier

Reclaimed wood and FSC certified materials get their shine on.

This season, it’s a winter wonderland. Appropriately so, as wood is somewhat transported back to its natural element – wrapped in icy high contrast metallics and wintry silver tones.

In these pieces, the hulk and bulk of wood gets pared down with an ultra shiny treatment that is both minimal and futuristic.

The 47 Table from San Francisco’s Council.

Pits and scars from blocks of reclaimed Douglas firs are coated in brilliant silver. The name is derived “from the atomic number of silver and the height of the piece in centimeters.”

Smart.

Like a blast of fresh winter air, a massive block of reclaimed Douglas Fir coated in dazzling silver. Also from Council.

Cabinets from the PCHseries by MASHStudios.

The series is named for California’s Pacific Coast Highway and made from natural, lacquer-free and FSC certified materials accented with cast aluminum.

From John Haushmand, a piece of Black Walnut microslab wrapped around a glass base – as if hugging a block of ice.

Shelving boxes from 2^nd Shift Design Studio in Cleveland, Ohio. The interior is rimmed with arctic aluminum frames. The exterior wrapped in slats of reclaimed lumber.

Imperfection and impermanence are the two underlying commonalities in all of these pieces. The imperfection of the wood itself, each pockmark memorialized and encased under a hardened shell. Evidenced, too, is the impermanence of wood. An unrelenting tree standing tall season by season cum roller coaster, now reclaimed and “of the moment” in our cozy living rooms.

A luscious, woven wood masterpiece made of FSC certified scraps.

The Weave Credenza from Structured Green would make a stylish statement in any room. Made entirely of FSC certified wood, the decorative door fronts of this gorgeous piece are made from leftover fragments of wood woven together. It’s worthy of lots of lust as well as an all out splurge ($3495 – $3995).

Look for Lustables daily at EcoSalon. 100% gorgeous green finds, and never sponsored. Submit your favorite to tips@ecosalon.com

It took me years to realize that not only were sunglasses necessary to do the basic job of keeping the sun out of my eyes, they were also meant to protect the fine skin around my eyes.

Now, with sun damage lines grooved deep into the corners of my eyes, I wish I’d always worn sunglasses while out in the sun and thrown all care away for sunglass lines. According to All About Vision, an eye care journalism site, the UV Index developed by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the National Weather Service (NWS) has made many Americans more aware of the risks of sunburn and skin cancer from the ultraviolet radiation, but when it comes to eye protection are we just not listening?

FYI, extended exposure to the sun’s UV rays has been linked to eye damage, including cataracts, macular degeneration, pingueculae, pterygia and photokeratitis that can cause temporary vision loss.

Thanks to a slough of really hip sunglasses out there, you can protect your eyes while still looking hip and yes, even sustainably so.

Here are four lines I love and seven more from Eco-Chick Starre Vartan on MNN:

iwood

Made in the U.S. from FSC certified, reclaimed exotic woods, these glasses are feather light and offer 100 percent UVA/UVB protection.

icu

Made from recycled plastic and metal (and bamboo), this sunglass line (and this particular style) is a favorite with Oprah.

Moonwoods

Made conscientiously without harsh chemicals out of mill ends that would otherwise be discarded from a small (but growing) company based in Portland, Oregon.

eco

Utilizing recycled plastic and metal, eco plants a tree for each frame sold. A sunglass line doing double duty makes us smile.

Image: orangeacid

Jason Mraz

When I got an  email from Bahar Shahpar that she’d be styling singer Jason Mraz at the 52nd Annual Grammy Awards, I didn’t realize how little I knew about the singer, though I’ve heard his catchy songs many a time.

Some of you might be better-informed fans of this Grammy winner, but did you know he’s a committed sustainable activist?

Like, ridiculously so. Maybe we’re soul mates.

Here’s a quick rundown of Mr. Mraz:

1. Co-founder of Blend Apparel, a line of bamboo T-shirts.

2. He recently published his first book titled a thousand things, printed on Forest Stewardship Council-certified paper that’s 20 percent recycled and wood-free. The book also happens to be word-free: it’s a collection of Polaroids.

3. His tour bus is an 80/20 biodiesel bus.

4. Information at his concert’s merch table lets you know how you can get Jason Mraz organic merchandise, how he makes conscious choices on the road, how you can participate in greening your community or select brands that are doing something to help the environment.

5. Thanks to living in  San Diego and dealing with water pollution, he’s an active member of the Surfrider Foundation.

6. He also owns an organic avocado farm in Northern San Diego County.

Next thing you’re going to tell me, Jason, is that you were immaculately conceived from a tree. I’m on to you.

While his third album release with lead single from We Sing. We Dance. We Steal Things, “Make It Mine,” won Best male Pop Vocal performance and Best Pop Collaboration with Vocals for “Lucky,” his duet with Colbie Caillatalso, Mraz didn’t shirk from putting importance on what he wore when he accepted.

Here is Shahpar’s rundown of his duds at the event:

EcoGir Suit by Simon Carter
·         Made from recycled polyester/wool
·         About 25 plastic bottles are used to make one suit
·         Machine washable

Organic cotton Shirt by Culturata
·         Made in Italy using no pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, fragrances or dyes

Tie by Sonic Fabric
·         Made from recycled cassette tapes

Handmade Shoes by Osborn Design
·         Handmade by local artisans in Guatemala
·         Made using local and vintage materials

How did she get the gig styling Mraz?

Shahpar says she met him at the EMAs (Environmental Media Awards) in October 2009 when he received the 2009 Missions in Music Award.
Having been a stylist since the beginning of her career in fashion over a decade ago, she’s found many opportunities to work with clients who share her passion for promoting beautiful, responsibly produced pieces.

“Clothing is such an intimate part of our lives, and dressing someone can be a telling window into who someone is,” says Shahpar, “So it is often a very personal experience – and incredibly rewarding when you’re able to help them be a better version of themselves.”

A better version, Bahar? In the case of Jason, we’re already talking sainthood!

iWood Sunglasses

Sunglasses are more than just fashionable accoutrement.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), protecting our eyes is just as important as slathering on sunblock.

In fact, research has shown that ultraviolet (UV) radiation increases the likelihood of certain cataracts that, while curable with modern eye surgery, can and will diminish the eyesight of millions of Americans and cost billions of dollars in medical care each year.

Other kinds of eye damage include pterygium, a tissue growth that can block vision, cause skin cancer around the eyes, and promote degeneration of the macula. All these problems can be lessened with proper eye protection from UV rays.

This is where you get to have fun and feel justified getting something stylish to protect yourself and, of course, do it sustainably.

One of the more interesting sunglass lines I’ve come across as of late is the iWood line. Constructed from excess FSC-certified woods, iWood glasses are assembled with non-toxic glues and VOC-free coatings on the lenses.

Wait a minute, that said, what the heck are your sunglasses made of?