ColumnWhy cardamom is your new best friend.

High end ramen, breakfast for dinner, sparkling water: We spend a lot of time discovering and discussing food trends on Foodie Underground. It’s a dichotomous pursuit. There are the evenings spent complaining to friends about how fed up with the foodie world I am (bone luging, really? yet another cupcake store, must we?). Naturally, in the next sentence, I’m going on about my sea salt and olive oil polenta cake in the oven.

“Sea salt, Anna, really?”

“But sea salt is really good in cake. I swear.”

Pause.

“Want to try this cardamom chocolate cake instead?” Tease all they want, I know they’re not going to turn it down.

No matter how much your friends roll their eyes at a foodie’s obsession, one can always quell their serving of sass with what one cooks up. Appreciation for good homemade food is universal.

But about those trends. Today: cardamom.

Go take a look in your spice cabinet. What do you see? A half-empty container of powdered ginger that’s more yellow mass than powder? Vietnamese cinnamon you haven’t used since that botched chai recipe in graduate school’s chai-and-soy-I-don’t-do-coffee days? Turmeric that you don’t dare use because…well, because it’s so damn technicolor?

Get rid of them – all of them – and make room for cardamom, your new spice of choice.

I have a personal long-standing love affair with cardamom, it being the basis of practically every Swedish baked good ever created – thank you, Vikings. It has been a longtime staple in my culinary adventures, but lately I’ve noticed that whenever I see a restaurant that employs one word for its name (or two words connected by an ampersand in Helvetica of course), I can be certain there will be cardamom on the menu. Cardamom is the food world’s latest It Spice.

This spice deserves any accolade a food lover gives it. It’s versatile, delicious and sexy in everything from desserts to main courses. Yes, it’s expensive, coming in after saffron and vanilla, but there’s good reason that this India-born spice is the new épice du jour.

Here are five reasons you should (and will) fall in love with cardamom.

1. Cardamom is exotic. It is sexy.

Cardamom has a distinct and complex flavor. Bonus: Anything you put the spice in is automatically going to sound more alluring that the original version.

Just read the following variations out loud:

Orange ice cream. Orange cardamom ice cream.

Roasted potatoes. Cardamom roasted potatoes.

Saffron macaroons. Saffron-cardamom macaroons.

And so forth. Thanks to this spice, you can instantly turn yourself into a creative, culinary genius, which of course will be a hit for your food-related dating endeavors. It’s marketing, baby! (Fortunately, the product backs up the hype.)

2. Cardamom goes well with coffee.

“Must be some Scandinavian thing,” a friend of mine responded to a comment I had made about never being able to put too much cardamom in my coffee.

I’m not certain putting cardamom in coffee is an actual Scandinavian habit, but my Swedish-born mother has been doing it since before I can remember, and she buys cardamom in bulk quantities to ensure that we never run out. Having the economic sensibilities of every other food-loving twentysomething, I always fill a plastic bag up when I go home to visit my parents to avoid having to purchase it myself.

Add a pinch (or two, or three) to your morning brew and let it work its magic. You’ll quickly understand my obsession.

3. Cardamom is both sweet and savory.

The beauty of cardamom is that it goes just as well with pastries as it does in a lamb tagine.

For a quick and easy sweet tasting cardamom recipe, try my favorite Cardamom Cake.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups flour
• 3 teaspoons ground cardamom
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 7 tablespoons butter
• 1 egg
• 1 cup milk

Instructions:

-Mix dry ingredients in a bowl. Add in butter with your fingers and mix until crumbly consistency.

-Add in egg and milk and mix until a batter consistency.

-Pour into a greased 9.5 inch circular baking pan. If you want to, sprinkle with sliced almonds or orange zest. (The one pictured above uses Swedish Pearl Sugar, which you can buy at IKEA or import food stores).

-Bake at 400 F for about 30 minutes.

4. You can get creative with cardamom.

I have found that any recipe that requires any element of spice can be adapted to include cardamom. Food52 ran a contest with cardamom inspired recipes, resulting in everything from Bellinis to granola.

If you have yet to go out on a foodie limb, cardamom could just be your gateway spice. Start small. Add a little cardamom to your hot chocolate, for example. Then graduate to more complex creations, like cardamom in a butternut squash soup.

Just remember to go easy; too much cardamom and your recipe will taste more like medicine than food.

5. You can please omnivores, vegans, the gluten-intolerant and your grandmother. 

There’s a cardamom recipe for everyone.

The Meat Lover: Cocoa Cardamom Steak Rub

The Vegan: Cardamom Macadamia Nut Pancakes

The Europhile: Fig and Cardamom Spiced Tiramisu

Your Conventional Grandmother: Cardamom-Spiced Meatloaf

The Bacon Lover: Sugared Cardamom Bacon

The Gluten Intolerant: Cardamom and Orange Quinoa Cookies

The Bartender: No. 4 – a cocktail with gin and cardamom

Now get yourself to the grocery store and stock your spice cabinet. You have delicious to do.

Editor’s note: This is the latest installment of Anna Brones’s weekly column at EcoSalon, Foodie Underground, discovering what’s new and different in the underground food movement, from supper clubs to mini markets to the culinary avant garde.

Image: Veganbaking.net, Anna Brones

Delicious brunch recipes from some of our favorite food blogs.

For the past two months we’ve been running our Sunday Brunch series. We’re wrapping it up this weekend to leave room for a new series – keep an eye out for it next weekend – but we wanted to celebrate by recapping all of the great recipes and food blogs that we have featured over the last eight weeks. We’re pretty sure that if you made all eight of them this weekend you would be hosting the best brunch party ever.

Sour Cream Pecan Crumb Coffee Cakes

Not only will you get a delicious dish out of this recipe from Turntable Kitchen, but it comes with a hand selected playlist too.

Mascarpone, Nutella and Fresh Berry Toasts

Food Blogga loves Nutella as much as we do and these toasts are the perfect way to justify eating it on an early Sunday morning.

Triple Cheese and Spinach Strata

From the vaults of food magazine Honest Cooking, this Triple Cheese and Spinach Strata will serve a crowd.

Gluten Free Cinnamon Rolls

Have a few gluten sensitive friends coming over? Not to worry. Just put a batch of these cinnamon rolls from Gluten Free Girl in the oven and you’ll have nothing to fret over.

Pumpkin Pancakes

Big Girls Small Kitchen puts pumpkin to good use in these hearty pancakes that will soon be a regular brunch favorite.

Almond Ginger Granola With Blueberries

A bowl of this granola from So Good and Tasty, and you’ll wonder why you ever ate the store bought stuff.

French Choquettes

Kerry of  French Revolution has this easy recipe that’s simple to make but will certainly impress your guests.

Creamy Grits with Crispy Leeks

From Herbivoracious, here’s a dish that puts a fresh spin on an old classic.

Bon appetit!

Image: xiux5

A delicious and creative brunch dish that’s perfect for the vegetarian crowd.

Sometimes you need a new spin on culinary classic, and this recipe for Creamy Grits with Crispy Leeks happens to be vegetarian and gluten free, perfect for when you have tired of the bacon and bread combination that is the darling of every breakfast joint du jour.

This week’s Sunday Brunch recipe comes to us from Herbivoracious, an excellent food blog run by Michael Natkin that is committed to intriguing vegetarian recipes. Natkin is also coming out with a new cookbook this spring, and if you’re looking for another addition to your brunch table, you might also want to try out his One-Bowl Banana Muffins.

***

Breakfast for dinner doesn’t have to be just pancakes or eggs and toast. I grew up in the South, and was always appalled to watch folks mix together waffles, bacon, maple syrup and everything else on their plate. Thirty years later, I think that mixing sweet, savory and salty flavors is pure genius.

Today’s dish explores that idea, with creamy grits, crispy fried leeks, a leek jus with Morita peppers and honey, cilantro-Epazote pesto, an egg, sunny side up, and a bit of queso fresco. This would be more of a Southwestern spin on that Southern idea.

Grits are one of the great breakfast foods. If you have made polenta before, you’ve also made grits – there is no real difference, unless you are talking lye-processed hominy grits, which are much less common. Some folks argue about whether or one is coarser or finer, white or yellow but mainly it is a distinction without a definitive difference. Cornmeal is simply whisked into lots of boiling water, and then simmered until smooth, soft and creamy. If you like, you can replace some of the water with milk, and/or add cheese to enrich.

I handled the leeks in an interesting way here. We fry up a big batch of them until crispy. Some are reserved for the final dish, and the rest are then simmered with morita peppers, extracting all of that caramelized flavor to make the jus. I just recently learned about Moritas – they are smoked and dried red jalapenos. So basically chipotles, but not packed in adobo. You get the opportunity to get all the pepper flavor and smoke without the extraneous tomatoey flavors in the canned sauce. And let me tell you, breathing in deep from a bag of Morita peppers is a transporting experience. Wow.

The cilantro-Epazote pesto was a pure experiment. I thought maybe the Epazote flavor would be overpowering, and I would only be able to use a tiny bit as an accent. Surprisingly, that wasn’t the case. It was present and very appetizing, but not over the top.

Creamy Grits with Crispy Leeks, Leek Jus, and Cilantro-Epazote Pesto
Vegetarian and gluten-free; not vegan
Serves 2

• 3 cups water
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 cup stone-ground grits
• 2 tablespoons pepitas, toasted
• 1 handful cilantro leaves, cleaned
• 4 Epazote leaves
• 2 tablespoons canola oil
• 1/4 cup canola oil
• 3 leeks, white parts only, halved lengthwise, cleaned thoroughly, sliced thinly
• 2 Morita peppers or other smoked pepper of your choice, briefly toasted in a dry skillet
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 2 organic eggs
• 2 ounces queso fresco or other cheese of your choice

Bring the 3 cups of water and 1 cup of milk to a boil. Whisk in the grits in a thin stream, stirring continuously. Add a couple big pinches of salt. Reduce to a simmer. Cook for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. You will notice a distinct change where they go from being “gritty” to creamy.  Add more water as necessary if they are getting dry before that happens. Anytime after they turn creamy, they are ready to serve. Taste and add salt as needed.

Meanwhile, combine the pepitas, cilantro, Epazote, 2 tablespoons of canola oil and a pinch of salt in a mini food processor, and process until it forms a coarse, pesto-like consistency. You might need a little more oil. Taste and adjust salt.

Heat a very large, preferably cast-iron skilet over a high flame. Add 1/4 cup of oil and heat for a moment. Add the leeks and a big pinch of salt and fry, turning only very occasionally, until they are mostly deep brown. Remove about two tablespoons of them two paper towels and season with salt. As they cool, the should become crisp.

Return the pan to a medium flame (with the rest of the leeks still in it), and deglaze the pan with 1 cup of water, scraping well to get all the flavorful bits. Add the Morita peppers and the honey and whisk. Reduce heat to a bare simmer and cook five minutes, adding more water if needed.

Using a fine sieve and pressing well, transfer the liquid to a very small saucepan and keep warm. Dispose of the solids. Reduce or add liquid as necessary to produce a thin jus with just a hint of body. Taste and adjust seasoning. We’d like a balance of savory from the leeks, salt, smoke and heat, and sweetness from the honey.

In the original skillet, add a little more oil and fry off two eggs. Cover so that the whites cook while the yolk remains runny. Or you could use poached eggs.

To serve, put a helping of the grits in each bowl and make a well. Fill the well with the poached egg. Top with the crispy leeks and pour a couple tablespoons of the jus around the edge. Add a tablespoon or so of the pesto and a small piece of queso fresco.

Sunday Brunch is an ongoing series featuring brunch recipes from some of our favorite food blogs around the web. New recipes every Sunday, so that you’re ensured a gourmet weekend. Bon appetit!

Image: Herbivoracious

A healthier version of a classic batch of cookies.

It’s January. You’re cold, you need comfort food, and wouldn’t it be nice if the kitchen smelled good, too?

If you have been finding yourself in the mood to hunker down with a plate of something sweet and fatty, you’re not alone. As Evelyn Tribole, RD says, “It’s a survival mechanism. You don’t want to kill for a piece of broccoli, but you’d kill for a piece of bread.”

But the better part of you really wants to be craving broccoli, because you know better than to succumb to the urge of eating an entire chocolate cake. Tempting, but there are better options. Like gluten free Buckwheat Pumpkin Oatmeal Cookies.

No, you cannot eat an entire plate of them – and you will be tempted – but the sugar content is minimal, they have healthy flours and your kitchen will smell good. Winter problems solved. Start baking.

Buckwheat Pumpkin Oatmeal Cookies

• 1 cup rice flour
• 1 cup buckwheat flour
• 2 cups rolled oats (certified GF if you need them to be)
• 1 teaspoon xantham gum
• 1 cup butter
• 1 egg
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon cardamom
• 1 cup pumpkin puree (organic of course!)
• 1/4 cup currants
• 1/2 cup chocolate chips

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 350F.

Cream butter and sugar. Add in egg and pumpkin.

Mix together flour, xantham gum, baking soda, baking powder and spices.

Combine with pumpkin batter then stir in oats, currants and chocolate chips.

Roll into small balls and place on greased baking sheets.

Bake for 12-15 minutes.

You can always eat broccoli tomorrow.

Image: Anna Brones

French puffs of pastry for the breakfast averse.

When it comes to food, we have a bit of a French obsession. Is there anything better than a cafe au lait and a pain aux raisins on a Sunday morning? Not a lot, but this recipe for choquettes from French Revolution just might give that menu a run for its money. So bring a little joie de vivre to your kitchen table this weekend and enjoy.

***

I still remember my first chouquette.

I’m not big on breakfast. While it’s most people’s favorite meal, it’s something I usually resolve to eat around this time every year. Mostly, I fail. But one fine morning, I was in Paris and on my way to cooking school. Cooking school is not for the faint of heart or the empty of stomach. You need calories to burn. So as I passed by the bakery around the corner from Le Cordon Bleu, I gazed into the window for some inspiration.

In a little cloth-lined basket, I saw a stack of something I’d never noticed before. Puffs of crisp dough, covered in a crust of pearl sugar. I asked what they were. That baker was never friendly and replied with a terse, “chouquettes.” I realized I was on my own, so I ordered a handful. With my first bite it hit me: profiterole shells. They are profiterole shells, without all the sweetness of cream and chocolate. Just the simple, air-filled, balloon of a shell, crisp on the outside, airy pocket inside, and covered in sugar. A little bit eggy, just a little bit rich. But light enough for a girl who hates breakfast.

They’re so easy to make at home, and so charming to serve in a little basket at brunch. I add a slight American twist by serving them, and sometimes even injecting them, with an assortment of jams.

INGREDIENTS

• ½ cup water
• ½ stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
• A pinch of fine sea salt
• ½ cup flour
• 2 eggs
• 2 tablespoons pearl sugar, or more to taste
• Assorted jams and preserves

PROCEDURE

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a medium sauce pot, bring the water, butter, sugar, and salt to a boil in a covered pot over medium heat. Take the pot off the heat, and dump in the flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until completely incorporated. Return the pot to medium-low heat and stir for 60 seconds, until the dough comes away from the sides of the pot and forms a ball.

Turn the dough out into a bowl, and add 1 egg at a time, stirring with a wooden spoon until the egg is completely incorporated. The dough will be thick and sticky. Use a tablespoon measure to place balls of dough on a parchment- or Silpat-lined baking sheet, spacing out the chouquettes. Dip your finger in a bowl of water, and pat down any spikes in the dough that might burn. Sprinkle with pearl sugar.

Bake 10 minutes at 400°F, then reduce the heat to 350°F for 30 additional minutes. Take the chouquettes out of the oven, pierce the bottom of each pastry with a skewer, and cool on a wire rack. The hole in the bottom allows the steam to escape without making the chouquette soggy. Serve in a cloth-lined basket.

Sunday Brunch is an ongoing series featuring brunch recipes from some of our favorite food blogs around the web. New recipes every Sunday, so that you’re ensured a gourmet weekend. Bon appetit!

Image: French Revolution

Kick off the new year with a batch of pumpkin pancakes. 

Even though the holidays are over, we still can’t get enough of pumpkin. Sweet or savory, the squash does culinary wonders. Which is why we’re ringing in the new year with this recipe for Pumpkin Pancakes from our friends at Big Girls Small Kitchen.

***

I had the idea to make pumpkin pancakes a while back, and eventually I got around to actually making them. In pancakes, pumpkin works like ricotta or yogurt, making the pancakes slightly denser, almost more egg-y tasting.

We know what you’ll be making for brunch today. 

When you’ve spent all week with mornings of yogurt, granola, and flax seeds, the weekend calls for a decadent brunch, particularly in winter. There’s nothing quite like spending a slow Sunday morning enjoying a substantial dish with friends. Thanks to Honest Cooking, a gorgeous international online culinary magazine that’s one of our favorite places for food inspiration, now you’ve got that recipe. Triple Cheese and Spinach Strata is not only indulgent, but it will feed a crowd, so invite over a handful of friends, slice up some fruit to serve on the side, and enjoy.

***

Mornings waver between extremes: the painful fight against grogginess, or a wonderfully lazy start to the day. I’d argue that a major tipping point is breakfast. Rushing out the door with a growling stomach is outstripped by taking even five minutes with a bowl of granola, with bonus points if it’s raining outside and you have a hot coffee to keep you warm. I have a special soft spot for breakfasts that can be prepared the night before, saving me from doing anything in my morning haze other than turning the oven on (still a fairly perilous task). At the top of the list is the strata: combining eggs, cheese, and bread into a single luxurious dish that guarantees you won’t be hungry till lunch.

Stratas are layered cubes of bread, baked in a casserole with eggs and milk for a custard-like consistency. The prep is all the night before, letting the liquid soak into the bread overnight and minimizing morning work. Using frozen spinach and jarred red peppers makes it even easier, but if you have the time, fresh spinach and home-roasted peppers never hurt. It’s a decadent breakfast and works even better for brunch, letting you sleep in until an hour before your guests arrive.

Breakfast stratas usually have cheese melted on top, but borrowing a trick from lasagna, I added dollops of ricotta, adding creaminess to the layers of gruyère and bread. Sundried tomatoes and roasted peppers also help cut the richness – so effectively that I find I can sometimes eat a double portion. I don’t recommend it though – the leftovers can be reheated the next day, stretching a slow weekend breakfast into a great weekday morning.

Triple-cheese spinach strata with sundried tomatoes and peppers
Yield: Serves 4, but easily doubled in a larger casserole.

• 1/4 cup (0,6dl) chopped dry-packed sundried tomatoes
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 6 ounces (170 g) frozen spinach, thawed
• 1/2 cup (1,25dl) chopped roasted red peppers
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, divided
• 5 cups (1,25l) cubed French or Italian bread, crusts removed (about 1/2 pound or 225 g)
• 4 large eggs
• 1 cup (2,5dl) milk
• 1/4 cup (0,6dl) heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• Pinch freshly ground pepper
• 1/3 cup (0,8dl) ricotta
• 1 cup (2,5dl) gruyère, grated
• 1/2 cup (1,25dl) parmesan, finely grated

1. Cover sundried tomatoes with boiling water and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain off water. Squeeze handfuls of spinach to remove as much water as possible, and then chop.

2. Over medium-low heat, heat butter until no longer bubbling. Saute onion until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, stir until golden, about 30 seconds. Stir in spinach, peppers, sundried tomatoes and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Stir until mixture is dry, about 1 minute, then remove from heat.

3. In a buttered square casserole, layer half of bread cubes. Spread over half of spinach mixture, then spoonfuls of half of ricotta. Scatter over half of gruyère and parmesan. Repeat layering.

4. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, cream, mustard, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Pour egg mixture evenly over casserole. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

5. In the morning, remove casserole from the fridge and let sit while preheating oven to 350°F (175°C). Bake casserole until browned and cooked through, about 45-50 minutes.

Sunday Brunch is an ongoing series featuring brunch recipes from some of our favorite food blogs around the web. New recipes every Sunday, so that you’re ensured a gourmet weekend. Bon appetit!

We know what you’ll be making for brunch today. 

Remember when you first discovered Nutella? A friend or relative who had spent some time in Europe probably said something along the lines of, “they have this amazing spreadable chocolate.” You went and tracked down a jar at some hole-in-the-wall import store and soon all was right with the world. That was then, today Nutella is a commonly found staple, and when it comes to brunch, what better ingredient? Susan Russo, otherwise known as Food Blogga, is of the same mindset, and today’s Sunday Brunch we’re bringing you her recipe of Mascarpone, Nutella, and French Berry Toasts.

***

Sometimes brunch can hurt.

It was July, 2000, Raleigh, North Carolina. My husband and I were invited to attend an all-you-can-eat Southern Sunday brunch. It was an impossibly humid morning, so I didn’t have much of an appetite. That is, until we entered the frigid air-conditioned restaurant and breathed in the sweet, salty, yeasty air. “I’m hungry,” I said to Jeff. “I hope the food’s good.”

We started off modestly at the table with fresh fruit, juices, and coffee (a rookie mistake in hindsight). We quickly progressed to the steaming hot homemade biscuits, some drenched with butter, others drowned with Southern gravy, both delectable. Soon our small plates dusted with biscuit crumbs were replaced with large plates heaped high with a mound each of creamy shrimp and grits, stewed collards, and black-eyed peas. Jeff got a deep-fried chicken leg, which I refrained from eating, not because I felt virtuous but because I was a vegetarian.

Wiping off our slick, buttery fingers we agreed we would stop.

We didn’t.

A friend told us we simply had to have the pancakes. Who could be bothered with plain ‘ol pancakes? we thought. We didn’t know that they had sublimely moist corn pancakes and sweet potato pancakes doused with sticky praline sauce. We ate both.

Then we did the unthinkable. We say “yes” to dessert: thick wedges of sweet potato pie adorned with freshly whipped cream. It was North Carolina. You don’t skip sweet potato pie in North Carolina.

We got up from the table, waistbands stretched to within an inch of their lives, and I nearly had a hyperglycemic episode. We didn’t eat again until Tuesday.

After that episode, brunch became a dirty word in our house It took years for us to recover. Someone would say, “Sunday brunch” or “stack of pancakes,” and we’d begin to tremble and sweat. We were suffering from brunch PTSD.  I wanted to go to counseling. Jeff refused.

Slowly and patiently over the course of several years we eventually recovered from our fear of brunch. Today we can attend any type of brunch, eat moderately, and enjoy ourselves. When it comes to making brunch at home though, we still prefer simple, smallish, breakfast-y items such as Spinach and Ricotta Frittata, Chili Lime Fruit Salad, Greek Yogurt, Fresh Fig, and Black Currant Parfaits, and Monte Cristo sandwiches.

Our go-to brunch item, the one everyone swoons over, is also the simplest: Mascarpone, Nutella, and Fresh Berry Toasts. Take slices of warm Italian toast, slather them with creamy Nutella and rich mascarpone, and top with slices of fresh strawberries. That’s it. If you can’t find juicy strawberries right now, try other seasonal fruit such as sliced figs or persimmons, or lightly sauteed apples or pears.

And, remember, brunch doesn’t have to hurt.

Mascarpone, Nutella, and Fresh Berry Toasts

You really don’t need measurements for this recipe. An (8-ounce) tub of Mascarpone cheese and 2 pints of berries should make about a dozen toasts.

• A (1 pound) loaf of sliced Italian bread
• Butter for toasting
• 1 jar Nutella, the real thing only please
• 1 (8-ounce tub) Mascarpone cheese
• 2 pints fresh berries, such as raspberries, blueberries, or strawberries or fruit of your choice

1. Lightly butter bread and toast until golden.

2. Smear on a layer of Nutella, then top with a layer of Mascarpone. Arrange fruit on top. Serve immediately. Await praise.

Sunday Brunch is an ongoing series featuring brunch recipes from some of our favorite food blogs around the web. New recipes every Sunday, so that you’re ensured a gourmet weekend. Bon appetit!

Image: Susan Russo

Swedish Advent coffee gatherings and the must have baked good of the season.

The season of Advent is upon us. In Sweden, Advent is holy, not just because it represents a religious tradition, but more practically it celebrates and honors light. Every Sunday through Christmas a new candle is lit, until the four long candles in the Advent candlestick are burning in unison. Throughout the month of December, windows blaze with the traditional triangle shaped candelabra, bringing a hue of gold to the otherwise dark and long winter nights.

Just as candles are an integral part of celebrating Advent, so are pepparkakor. Gingerbread cookies are the staple of Swedish Advent coffee gatherings and celebrations and the must have baked good of the season.

I grew up, every December, carefully rolling out gingerbread dough. In the early years, it was an awkward dance of pushing and pulling a rolling pin about half my size. Flour tended to go everywhere, and I would end up grinning with dough pieces stuck all over me. Yet my mother simply left me to it, and if I rolled too hard and the dough got stuck to the countertop, I was forced to find a solution myself.

Dust with flour, roll, pull up dough, flip over and repeat until just the right thickness to slice into with a Swedish cookie cutter. These cookie cutters were carefully kept in a large tin – which had at one point in the early 80s held Danish butter cookies certainly purchased at duty free on one of her connecting stops in Copenhagen. Hearts, pigs, Christmas gnomes, the classic gingerbread couple; I loved, and still love, sorting through and picking out my favorites. Feeling lazy? There were always the Franska Pepparkakor to make, a much simpler process of rolling out a log and slicing the cookies. In fact, if Swedish Jul for Dummies were a book, this recipe would be in it.

But pepparkakor are one thing, and a pepparkakshus (gingerbread house) is quite another; same dough, same concept and yet when you move from cookie to house, baking takes a completely different level of culinary creativity.

Enter, my father. Not known for his kitchen prowess – to his credit he is well versed in the world of exotic, black teas – gingerbread house making was his turn to put his carpentry and mathematical brain to use in an area normally left to my mother and I.

In his mind, a pepparkakshus was a serious matter. This is why, two decades later, we still have the same designs, meticulously drawn onto graph paper and cut out with an X-Acto knife, kept in the same, yellowed folder, “Jul” marked in red pen on the outside.

He put the same energy into crafting our annual pepparkakshus as he put into building our own house. Case in point: the pepparkakshus was always constructed with melted sugar, a binding agent that no child under the age of 12 should ever play with. But once dad had constructed the house, I got to decorate it, and he would watch as I sloppily poured icing all over the top, at first attempting to make a design and later resorting to the excuse “I just wanted to make it look like it snowed on the roof.” Fortunately like any good father he was never upset at his daughter’s decorative destruction of his architectural masterpiece.

Of course every kid-friendly holiday treat has to have an adult alternative, and beyond the pepparkakshus, my father’s other seasonal claim to fame is a mean batch of glögg, Sweden’s mulled wine. Whereas expertly crafting gingerbread houses was probably more of a fatherly duty, glögg was a personal masterpiece, picked up at about the same time that he wandered into the Nordic lands and stumbled upon my enchanting mother.

There has never been an Advent that I can remember that he didn’t have a batch brewing in our cast iron, red enamel pot- a kitchen item that’s probably as old as I am. During the month of December it sits there on the back left burner, ready to cook up another round. For not being a man of the kitchen, I can call my father at any given moment and he can rattle off his well-mastered glögg recipe as if he were reciting multiplication tables, which is helpful since even in a studio apartment, December is not December without the smell of glögg warming and a plate of pepparkakor.

Two years ago my father sent me a gingerbread house kit from a trendy grocery store that will remain nameless. The result was disappointing. No planning and no process, without even getting to the taste issue and the fact that the kitchen didn’t smell like spices. Tradition requires commitment, and for the month of Swedish Advent that commitment is making a good batch of pepparkaksdeg (the dough) and baking out a batch of cookies and constructing a house, no matter how old you are.

Now to find the glögg mugs.

Pepparkakor (Gingerbread Cookies)
(About 75-100 cookies)

¼ cup (50 ml) heavy cream
2/3 cup (150 ml) light syrup* or molasses
Almost one cup (200 ml) sugar
3 ½ oz (100 gram) butter
One tablespoon ground ginger
One tablespoon ground cloves
One teaspoon ground cinnamon
One tablespoon ground cardamom
One teaspoon baking soda
3 cups (700 ml) flour (+ some for the rolling out)

Melt the butter and the syrup on low heat. Let cool before adding the other ingredients. Work the dough well. It’s important that the spices are freshly milled. Let the dough rest overnight in a cool place so the spices have time to fully develop their aromas. The resting will also make it easier to roll out the dough.
Roll out the dough and cut out shapes with gingerbread cutters. Bake in the oven at 375ºF (190ºC) for about 6-8 minutes. Keep an eye on them as they burn easily.

This dough can also be used for a gingerbread house. Just roll it out slightly thicker. Have fun!

This recipe is a modification of the original at the Swedish shop Svensk Hemslöjd in Stockholm.

*You can buy light Syrup (ljus sirap) at Ikea. You can also use ”Lyle’s Golden Syrup” that you can find in British food stores.

Franska Pepparkakor  (French Gingerbread Cookies)

1 cup (almost 250 ml) almonds, chopped
7 oz  (200 g) butter
1/2 cup  (120 ml)  sugar
1/2 cup (120 ml) molasses
4 tsp ginger
4 tsp cinnamon
4 tsp ground nutmeg
4 tsp cardamom
2 tsp allspice
1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp baking soda
3 cups (700 ml) flour
Cream butter, sugar and molasses.

Mix dry ingredients with almonds, then combine with butter, sugar and molasses. Knead together with your hands.
Roll dough into cylinders, about 12 inches long and wrap in wax paper. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Cut dough into 1/4 inch slices. Bake at 380 for 10-12 minutes.

This recipe is adapted from the Swedish classic: “Sju sorters kakor.”

Illustrations by Johanna Kindvall

We know what you’ll be making for brunch today. 

Welcome to Sunday Brunch, a new weekly series that’s bringing you inventive and delicious brunch recipes from our favorite food blogs around the web. Today, it’s Sour Cream Pecan Crumb Cake from Turntable Kitchen in the oven. And since Turntable Kitchen is known for pairing music with food, they even made us a special brunch playlist to serve up with this recipe.

Sour Cream Pecan Crumb Coffee Cakes
Adapted from Baked: New Frontiers in Baking
*Serves a crowd

The cake:

• 3 1/2 cups of flour
• 1 teaspoon of baking powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons of baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon of salt
• 2 sticks of butter, cut into 1 inch pieces
• 2 1/4 cups of sugar
• 1 16-ounce package of sour cream
• 4 large eggs
• 1 1/2 teaspoons of vanilla extract

The chocolate cinnamon swirl:

• 1/2 cup of sugar
• 1 teaspoon of unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1 teaspoon of cinnamon

The pecan crumb:

• 3/4 cup of flour
• 3/4 cup of brown sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon of salt
• 3/4 cup of roughly chopped, toasted pecans
• 6 tablespoons of cold butter (unsalted), diced into small cubes

1. Start by making the pecan crumb topping by putting all of the ingredients, save the butter, into a food processor and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. Add the butter, pulsing until fully incorporated. Chill in the refrigerator while you make the cake.

2. Whisk the sugar, cocoa powder and cinnamon in a small bowl to combine to make the swirl.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F and butter a 9 x 13 inch baking pan.

4. Combine the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt in a bowl.

5. In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream together the butter until smooth and light. Add the sugar and beat until fluffy.

6. Add the eggs, one at a time, making sure to beat well after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl to make sure all of the ingredients are mixed.

7. Beat in the sour cream and vanilla. Next, beat in the dry mix in three additions (don’t over mix the batter).

8. Pour about 1/3 of the cake batter into the pan, spreading it evenly. Top with half of the chocolate-cinnamon swirl mixture.

9. Pour another third of the batter and top with the rest of the chocolate-cinnamon swirl mixture.

10. Pour in the rest of the batter, smoothing it evenly. Sprinkle with the crumb topping.

11. Bake for about 1 hour, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

12. Once cool, cut into crowd-serving-sized squares or rectangles.

*Note: if you are using a smaller pan, you should keep in mind that the cake will take much longer to cook (up to an hour and forty five minutes). To make sure you don’t burn the crumb topping, make a foil tent and cover the pan while you bake.

Sunday Brunch is an ongoing series featuring brunch recipes from some of our favorite food blogs around the web. New recipes every Sunday, so that you’re ensured a gourmet weekend. Bon appetit!