Sometimes, you’re better off moving on.

You’re feeling ill-at-ease, and you just can’t quite put your finger on the cause. You’re uninspired. Stifled. Frustrated. It’s time to examine your life, starting with the town you live in. Is the home you’ve chosen holding you back? If any of these 10 signs apply to you, from lack of enthusiasm for eco-friendly programs to intolerance of the differences of others, a fresh start in a new place might just do wonders for your well-being. Or, if you’ve got the stomach for it, maybe you should stay and fight for the things you believe in. Either way, it’s time for a change, baby.

There’s no recycling program

When private recycling companies won’t operate in your moderately-sized town because there aren’t enough residents willing to pay for the service, you know you’ve got a problem. Even when city-run programs are free, many people choose not to go through the “hassle” of recycling, but paid programs often fail spectacularly in areas where such practices are seen as “hippie stuff.” Sure, you could haul 50 pounds of recycling to the nearest big city once a month if you really care about recycling, but you shouldn’t have to.

The people just say no to solar panels

Some say renewable energy projects are ugly. Others are devoted to fossil fuels unto death. And even in towns where there’s some measure of support for them, solar power farms and wind turbines are all too often stifled by the NIMBYs (Not In My Back Yard). Nearly half of all renewable energy proposals are stifled because of local opposition, and while not all of the protests lack validity, it can be incredibly frustrating to see a promising project killed because your neighbors don’t want a turbine poking into “their” skyline. When they stop you from putting solar panels on your own roof, you’ve definitely got a legitimate reason to get the hell out.

There’s no public transportation

America’s sprawl is legendary, and for many parts of the country, personal automobiles seem like the only way to go. Nobody’s going to build a commuter railroad 100 miles out into the country to ferry a few dozen rural residents to the nearest city five days a week. However, cities and suburbs have no excuse for a lack of decent public transportation. With few routes and infrequent stops, poor public transit systems make this greener way to get around virtually impossible to rely upon. And if your town’s not bike-friendly, your options are even more limited. It’s no fun to be forced to drive to work and fight for a parking space when a bus would be so much more efficient.

Health care is conventional or bust

Got allergies? Go take some Sudafed. Ear infection? We’d better give you some super-strong antibiotics, just in case. Oh, you want to find the root cause of your health problems instead of just treating the symptoms? [Blank stare.] Yes, in many towns, you’re hard-pressed to find a health care practitioner that will even consider alternative treatments, even if they’re as benign as vitamin therapy. These attitudes often stem from the patriarchal directive to bow to a doctor’s authority, even if said doctor’s education is four decades out of date. If you can’t find a doc that will delay your child’s vaccination schedule, consider natural childbirth plans or condone the use of herbal supplements, you should look elsewhere.

Pharmacists refuse to carry Plan B

In many states, it’s perfectly legal for pharmacists to flat-out refuse to carry or sell birth control methods like Plan B due to moral or religious objections. Such practices more than likely lead to an increase in unwanted pregnancies, and when these women subsequently seek abortions, they’re not likely to find local services for that either. State laws are shutting down Planned Parenthood branches and other women’s health centers left and right, so many women find it difficult to even get physical contraceptives, low-cost health exams or counseling that isn’t pro-life pressure in disguise. One could argue that such conditions are anti-woman, but there’s no question that they’re anti-choice.

Racial segregation is still the status quo

There are still towns in America – and not just in the South – where a local resident’s tour of the countryside will introduce you to “the white swimming pool” and “the black basketball courts.” Unofficial racial segregation is common even in the most liberal of cities, including the outer boroughs of New York, but it’s a little different when a mixed race couple can’t attend church together, when high school students have “black proms” and “white proms,” and when country clubs have unwritten policies against admitting members of color.

Small biz lost the battle against corporate chains

You’d love to shop local, if only there were places to do it. Your dining options are limited to fast food, Olive Garden and T.G.I. Friday’s, and if you want household essentials, Walmart is the place to go. Mom and Pop shops were plowed under a long time ago to erect another sprawling retail warehouse, and locally-made products are hard to find. Sadly, some towns have opened their arms to big business in the hopes of receiving more jobs and cheaper products, but they’ve lost their identities in the bargain.

Freedom of religion

We are a diverse nation of atheists, Muslims, Jews, Buddhists, agnostics, Christians and dozens more religions and spiritual traditions, but in some towns, you’d never know it. That’s because the people who don’t attend twice-weekly church services and quote scripture in every conversation are often shamed into staying quiet about their beliefs. If you don’t fit in, you’re not just a heathen, you’re probably a devil-worshipper, and no one will ever loan you a pound of sugar or give you a ride when you’re broken down on the side of the road. Every group is guilty of occasionally marginalizing those who are different from them. That doesn’t mean you have to accept intolerance.

Every other car has an NRA bumper sticker

Sitting behind a monster truck at a traffic light, you’re staring at no less than a half-dozen highly offensive bumper stickers with slogans like “To get to heaven, turn right and go straight,” “Waterboarding works,” “Welcome to America, now go home,” and “I’ll keep my freedom and my guns, you keep the change.” This isn’t an isolated incident; they’re everywhere you go, even on vans full of children. You’re almost afraid to put up your meek little equality sign lest your car get keyed. If only people wore these slogans on their chests every day, you’d know just who to avoid.

Your town just won’t let you be great

You can’t find a good job. Nobody laughs at your jokes. All the single men you meet are behind on their cell phone payments and literally live in their mother’s basements. Sure, these could be signs of your own character deficiencies, but you’d probably prefer to believe that this place just isn’t for you. Don’t let your location stifle your self-expression or hold you back from doing great things. Either get out of dodge, or do them anyway, no matter what anyone else thinks.

ALSO CHECK OUT:

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Photo: Maxime Guilbot

The author of the hugely successful UK blog My Zero Waste challenges people to join a waste-free week away from home.

I recycle so much trash it’s embarrassing. To show you the state of my bins would be to out me as a hard-pressed consumer whose attempts at not producing waste are at most futile.

Prior to encountering the Greens – a.k.a. Rachelle Strauss, her husband Richard, their seven year-old daughter and black-and-white kitty cat, who’s now deceased, I felt rather confident with my waste management skills. Overall, I’d give myself a seven out of ten. Until I saw this:

It was enough to make me shrivel. That, my friends, is what Rachelle, author of the hugely successful UK green blog My Zero Waste, was sending to the dump one month last winter.

A combination of albatross and sea turtle horror stories, plus a “traumatic” family vacation evacuation blamed on “strange weather” led them to embark on their zero waste experiment, which they now sustain as a way of life.

Let’s take a bottle of milk as an example. Silica-sand is formed into glass and then made into a bottle, which is filled with milk and sold to the consumer. A responsible consumer would toss that bottle into a recycling bin. A Zero Waste consumer would return the bottle to the original distributor to be washed, refilled, and sold to someone else. The only “waste” produced would be the water the bottled is washed with, but even that can serve its purpose.

Zero-wasting (or even nominally wasting), is all rather simple, and doable, particularly from the comfort of your own home. Controlling outside waste, however, is the real challenge. Like, I never remember to say no to straws while out and about, because they remind me of Shirley Temples. I would never drink a Shirley Temple now, of course, because of the “empty calorie” factor. Instead, I’m producing “empty waste.”

In their fourth annual Zero Waste Week, Strauss and friends are focusing on “Reducing waste away from home.” You can join them from September 5^th to the 11^th by participating in small, but impactful, acts of waste reduction. For example, use your own travel mug. Bring fruit peelings and cores accumulated on the road to compost at home. Avoid straws and disposable cutlery when eating out.

Also, chime in your efforts on My Zero Waste. Sign up for the Facebook event. Even tweet with the hashtag #nzww.

It might seem small or self-evident until we consider the milk bottle again. After it’s washed, refilled and resold, imagine if the consumer on the other end was a zero-waster like you. Now, that would be a veritable flash mob – one worth boasting about.

Images: ruminatrix; John Wardell

ColumnAre you willing to shop package free?

If you’re reading this you probably bring your own reusable bags to the grocery store. Maybe you even wash out your plastic produce bags until they’re in tatters. But how far are you willing to go down the no-packaging road?

If the Brothers Lane in Austin, TX have their way, you’ll eschew packaging all together and buy everything in bulk. You’ll bring cloth bags or pre-weighed plastic or glass containers to In.gredients, the store they plan to open this fall in East Austin. You’ll refill wine bottles and lotion containers. You’ll not purchase anything that comes in a box or package.

Their plan is to nudge Austinites along the path to no packaging, gently, by opening a package-free, zero waste grocery store that offers compostable and reusable containers to those who haven’t quite picked up the habit of bringing their own.

Why is this important? We send 1.4 billion pounds of waste to landfills per day in the US. 40% of it comes from packaging—much of it very convenient, but entirely unnecessary.

Think about it. Does cereal have to come in a bag AND a box? No, the box just makes for easy transport and shelving and provides convenient space for advertising. Eggs, on the other hand, kind of need to be transported in egg cartons. Luckily they’re compostable. Unfortunately Austin doesn’t offer curbside composting to residential customers. The city picks up yard waste, but unless you’re a really crack home composter, you’re going to have trouble composting packaging. Throwing compostable packaging in the garbage doesn’t address the issue. Hopefully people will reuse any compostable packaging the store provides as many times as possible.

Taking into account the impossibility of going 100% waste free, opening a store like this is still a bold move. Customers will be asked to completely change the way they shop. Cleaning products, beer, wine, lotions, oils, and such will all come in bulk, as will things like yogurt, milk, and other dairy products. Think about the center of the store with its shelves of packaged foods. It will not exist. This means no “good” processed foods like canned tomatoes and beans that make cooking from scratch quicker and easier.

“It sounds intriguing, but as far as I can tell the number of people that bring their own bags to the market – even at the farmer’s market – isn’t incredibly high, so I am not sure about folks bringing their own containers, said Briana Stone, East Austin resident. “Targeting food deserts is an interesting idea, and reducing waste is definitely important, but I hope they figure out how to keep the prices reasonable and  make their concept work for busy, not wealthy families. I plan to check it out when it opens,” she added.

Christian Lane, one of the founders of the market, addressed the issue of pleasing and attracting a diverse clientele:

“We’re hoping that our location, on the border between one somewhat gentrified neighborhood, and other less affluent neighborhoods will be an advantage in reaching the people who want and in cases need to get away from over-processed foods (and junk foods) and cook from scratch. There are many Latino immigrants and children of immigrants (us included) who have never stopped cooking from scratch. Post recession, people of all incomes and backgrounds are realizing that we need to slow down and do what we can to achieve sustainability.”

The store will offer produce, grains and legumes, spices, tea and coffee, dried fruits and nuts, baking ingredients, oils, dairy, and beer and wine. There will be animal proteins offered in proportion within the product mix to reflect the expense and resource intensiveness of their production. The focus will be on local, organic, non-processed pant-based foods without artificial ingredients. Products that require packaging for food safety will be “package light,” and recyclable and compostable whenever possible.

“We want to reduce waste, but we also want to offer better food at a fair price to everyone, while supporting farmers and food producers in our community,” said Lane. “We’re hoping to be a spark of change and an anchor in the neighborhood for the people that want to come along with us and make some simple changes. This will require education and community involvement – a very collaborative effort – which is something we’re really excited about,” he said.

The store is set to open this fall in a just-announced location in East Austin. The group hasn’t secured enough funding yet, but they announced early in hopes that the originality of their concept would attract the necessary funding.

Time will tell how many customers will go whole hog in supporting the store’s efforts by bringing containers, beyond the now pervasive reusable shopping bags. But I have high hopes. Think what could happen if the idea spread to other stores in other areas and we also got our food waste under control. A girl can dream.

This is the latest installment in Vanessa Barrington’s weekly column, The Green Plate, on the environmental, social, and political issues related to what and how we eat.

Images: BC Mom, Rubbermaid, Editor B, Boedker

ColumnOne woman’s junk is another woman’s junk.

Junk mail never used to be one of my issues. We had other problems in my old Pacific Palisades, Calif. neighborhood, like the ambitious woman who tried to steal everyone’s identities one summer. (This was an exceptionally educational experience, getting to learn all about the credit lines I’d opened up, like the Home Depot store card in Torrance and the Bank of America checking account in Glendale.) My outdated, after-market CD player was ripped out of my Jeep, to which I thought, if you can get any money for that thing, good for you. My neighbor’s Porsche was stolen out from under us in the carport when we were all home. These small matters of living in Los Angeles aside, the one thing I never had to worry about was junk mail. Raised blissfully unaware on Internet, I assumed that in these greener times of sensible things like online ordering, permission marketing and recycled-paper catalogs, old-school junk mail no longer existed.

Oh, me.

I received my first Bed Bath & Beyond coupon when I moved to the Bay Area in 2007. Well, this is nice of them, I thought. I didn’t even have to ask! I got a jolt of nostalgic preppy delight at receiving my very first unanticipated J.Crew catalog soon after. But that joyous consumer high came to a crashing low as the voracious deluge of reconstituted rainforest began. In those days, I started to get a lot of letters from Leonardo DiCaprio, most of them in very large, thick envelopes filled with reams of paper with words on them asking me to save the planet. Frankly, I felt like he was kind of missing the forest for the trees.

I discovered that we are still doing Valpak. I was…introduced to cheap “catalogs” filled with unreadable print and old timey assortments of things you can easily find in a 99 cent store, things like plastic cell phone stands with miniature bemittened hands and giant telephone cord clasps. And it only got worse from there. Cause after cause. Health scam after health scam. Coupon after coupon. Clearly, the marketers had figured out I was no longer in grad school. I was junked.

I moved to a new house; the junk mail followed like a blue tick on a runaway heifer. I moved to an apartment in the city, expecting that with yet another address change, my days of Death by Paper Cut were over. It didn’t take me long to realize that my new building’s lobby was continuously churning in flyers and coupons and pamphlets, a clogged channel of cheap ink ready to smear our good credit and good cashmere. I bought a small waste bin to warehouse some of this unwanted mail and we worked out an informal system of taking turns emptying it in the recycling. Between our 7 units, the bin needs to be emptied almost daily. And this is just the junk; we stack the magazines and catalogs on the lobby console. The stoop is littered afresh each morning in Chinese takeout flyers, basement blowouts and hardware store leaflets.

I suppose I don’t mind the free address stickers for that one time in the future I might still actually mail a check, although, as with phone books, I am not as reverent of these living fossils as perhaps I should be. I definitely don’t mind the various catalogs I’ve signed up for because some nights, it’s just too much to read another New Yorker. Catalogs are wish fulfillment vignettes within our reach, as interesting a statement about our culture as billboards and commercials and Superbowl campaigns, and I’ve always loved the good ones. And like a bad commercial so awful it’s good, I don’t even mind the ridiculous ones I haven’t asked for, like Gorsuch, purveyor of lithe Aspen trophy wives smiling broadly into the slopes at their first world problems, namely, the fact that they still just spent $700 on high-waisted mom jeans.

But I don’t need psychic services, unless you can tell me that some relief from junk mail is in my future. AARP membership requests, really? I’ve always carried an affable grain of concern over my shoe habit, but I see now these worries are misplaced – I’m well on my way to being the little old woman who lived in her junk mail.

As with any source of pain, there is always a hidden gift. Recently I received a “personalized” letter from Terry Stenzel, the head of AT&T for the Bay Area, thanking me for being a customer and letting me know that AT&T is really working to improve the lousy service in San Francisco. Terry didn’t include an email address on his letter, so I did some Googling and figured it out. I sent him my own letter about the lousy service in San Francisco. The next morning, Terry sent me a 3G microcell tower. So I tweeted out his email address because good customer service deserves all the attention it can get!

I set up my free microcell tower and can report I am experiencing actual reception for the first time. Which is so perfect, because now I can call all these companies and tell them to stop sending me their junk.

This is the latest installment in your editor’s column, The Insider’s Guide to Life, exploring topics such as media, culture, sex, politics, and anything else. Cheers and spellcheck!

Image: H Bee <3

In Britain, the amount of yearly food waste can fill London’s Wembley Stadium.

Here’s something humiliating.

I’m a Brit. (That’s not the humiliating bit. Bear with me). We’re so careless with our groceries that we throw away around a third of them each year – at a total cost of $20 billion. Appalling, dreadful and…unreal. Yes, that’s the word. Look at that figure: $20 billion. Try to imagine it for a second, there in the room with you. Bet you can’t. I’ll bet even the Donald would struggle with it. It’s an abstraction that means nothing except to economists and…well, that’s about it.

What’s so may-the-ground-swallow-me-up humilating is this: the people of WRAP’s Love Food Hate Waste campaign just made that number real. In a number of events across the north of England over the last six months, they’ve  taken the amount of food the average British household tosses away in one year, cooked it up, and fed it to 1,000 hungry students. Of course, even students would draw the line at eating that banana I threw away in January, so this food was donated by regional food distribution charities like Food Aware and Real Aid, and the chosen menu focused on big, hearty dishes like vegetable curry and rhubarb crumble. Think Jamie’s School Dinners and you’d also bag the educational side of it – each event featured demonstrations on ways to turn limp leftovers into full-flavored feasts.

Back to $20 billion. How much food is that? Well, you can’t fit it into one room. In fact, you’ll need to fill London’s Wembley Stadium.

…8 times.

That’s a lot of food.

Images: Cushdy, mhaller1979.

Why recycling plastic bags only worsens our plastic plight.

All around the country, states and municipalities are considering legislation to either impose a fee on or outright ban single use plastic shopping bags. The arguments for eliminating plastic bags are sundry – the effects on the environment, the cost to taxpayers for clogged sewer systems and landfilling, and the havoc plastic wreaks on the animal kingdom from ingestion and entanglement.

We just need more recycling! So goes the cry of industry attempting a bait and switch.

According to the EPA, 100 billion plastic bags are consumed each year in the United States. That’s the supply side; the demand by recyclers is less than 5% of that number in the United States. Recently, The Salem Statesman Journal published a piece about the need for curbside recycling to address the trauma that plastic pollution creates in watersheds and oceans. At first blush, it seems to make sense. The article states that right now, citizens of Marion county (where the paper serves) must bring their bags to The Marion County Transfer Station for recycling. The piece argues that this inconvenience is what is causing the low recycling rate. But what’s important to note is that “able to be recycled” and “is recycled” are two very different things.

I contacted the Marion County transfer station and was told that all the plastic bags they collect go to another company, Agri-Plas, Inc. So I called Agri-Plas to ask what they do with them. The answer was startling: nothing. Nothing? As Agri Plas rep. Jennifer Sanders says, “There is absolutely no market for HDPE (film, plastic wrap, bags) in the United States. Everything we’ve collected in the past two years, at least, is still sitting here. Sometimes China will take them, maybe.”

Recyclers are in the business of making money. They can’t make money on HDPE, so why is the industry arguing on their behalf for something they don’t even want?

The largest plastic bag recycling center in the world is in Indiana, called Hilex Poly. Here’s what I want to know: At $.10 per pound, bound and delivered for HDPE, are they turning a profit? That doesn’t even cover delivery costs. Unfortunately, we can’t look at the company’s finances. Hilex Poly is a private LLC held by another company, HPC, which manufactures virgin plastic products. Hilex appears to be a public relations front. On their website, they give no recycling rates of bags for the United States; they employ about one thousand people nationally. By comparison, California’s taxpayers spend $25 million a year to collect and bury 19 billion plastic bags.

Recycling is the worst kind of supply side economics. Supply will always exceed demand because consumption always outpaces recycling. Even if recycling rates go up, consumption rates go up faster. The problem is getting worse, not better, even with improved recycling. Every year, more bags are consumed and more virgin plastic is produced. If recycling were truly a solution, the market for virgin plastics would be in decline.  It’s not.

Here’s the problem: You can’t make a bag out of a bag. Virgin content is needed because the polymer chains that hold a bag together are weakened by the recycling process. Recycling is actually down-cycling in practice. Only products of less structural integrity can be made from the original material. No matter how much we recycle, there will still be a net higher amount of plastic bags on the planet. In the ocean. In the river. In the landfill. In the sewer.

What’s doubly insidious is that the industry is very well aware of this, as well as the economics regarding their products in the waste stream. The industry props up recycling as convenient strategy for passing the responsibility to the taxpayer and government. This is calculated. This is on purpose. And yes, it’s cynical. Millions of dollars are spent lobbying, creating misleading ads full of rainbows and flowers and happy talk, and in generous campaign contributions to policy-makers.  Wouldn’t this money be better spent actually trying to fix the problem? Yes, but with the fossil fuel system already in place and humming cheaply, the industry doesn’t want to fix what’s broken because it isn’t broken for the industry. Creating a new, sustainable infrastructure means vast amounts of capital. Sunk costs and time. Trial and error. Research and development. Tight margins. New competition. Imperfect data. And very few dollars.

Image: Oregon Ban the Bag

ColumnIf you can read this sentence without corrective lenses, you are pre-disposed to eco-activism.

Let me make one thing clear: I am not old. Although, to be perfectly honest, I am not exactly young, either. On the continuum of age, I happen to fall at the precise numeric midpoint between Miley Cyrus and Betty White – a piece of pop culture trivia which somehow strikes me as deeply significant. If I had to guess, I would say that I am also somewhere between those two women when it comes to my wardrobe, my taste in music, and my bong habits. But when it comes to recycling, I feel like I belong firmly in the ranks of the elderly.

Recycling, much like computer skills, comes organically to those in their 20s and younger. Being planet-friendly is natural to them, since they have never known a world where newspapers could be carelessly thrown out, along with banana peels and tuna fish cans. For young people, recycling is easy and automatic – it is embedded in their DNA, along with Facebook and an endless fascination with Joseph Gordon-Levitt. But the biggest eco advantage for young people is that they can easily read the teeny tiny numbers inside the teeny tiny triangles on the bottom of plastic recyclable goods. Whereas I – squinting, in full daylight, and holding the item as far away from me as my arms will allow – cannot.

Those numbers tell you what a particular item is made of: a number 1 means the container is polyethylene terephthalate, and a 3 signifies the presence of polyvinyl chloride. Items with a number 1 or 2 are the most likely to be recycled, but for anyone over the age of 40 these numerals – especially when imprinted on clear plastic – are almost impossible to read. My friend, Pat, solves this problem by waiting until her kids come home from school before disposing of anything plastic. My own solution is to be constantly surrounded by a ginormous collection of reading glasses.

I used to think of glasses as fashion accessories –  like an extremely functional pair of earrings. When I was young, and didn’t really need glasses to see, I enjoyed the “smart girl/sexy librarian” vibe I thought they lent me. If I liked a pair of frames, I would buy the glasses and wait for my eyes to deteriorate into them. Then came a near catastrophe, when misreading the directions on a medicine bottle almost caused me to give my daughter an overdose of Robitussin. At that point, glasses were no longer an accessory, but a necessity. Today they have become something of a fetish. I have glasses that I keep upstairs and some that stay downstairs; there is always one pair in my car, one in my office, and another in my purse. This past week alone I discovered forgotten glasses in my junk drawer, the pocket of an old winter coat, and under the dog’s bed. And there is one massively strong pair I keep around just for texting.

But the numbers on the bottom of jars and bottles are so ridiculously small that even plentiful access to reading glasses doesn’t necessarily help.  This strikes me a galling example of ageism. The Boomers invented ecology – we are, after all, the generation that dreamed up Earth Day. We should not be carelessly shoved aside by a youth oriented eco culture.  Recycling information should be printed in a font size that even mature adults are able to see. It’s bad enough that people my age can’t wear skinny jeans or two-piece bathing suits anymore – at least let us recycle our Activia containers.

Editor’s Note: Susan Goldberg is a slightly lapsed treehugger. Although known to overuse paper products, she has the best of intentions – and a really small SUV. Catch her column, The Goldberg Variations, each week here at EcoSalon.

Image: e-magic

Trashion. If you’re green and fashionable, you’ve no doubt noticed it’s everywhere you look these days. And this “creative reuse” in fashion may have finally gone too far. It’s time to question, for the sake of eco fashion’s future viability, the plethora of “trash to treasure” initiatives touted as sustainable fashion genius.

It is time to do more with less, and this includes reducing our predilection for “trash to treasure” designs and stories that glorify less than marketable fashion.

The thing that concerns me as someone who also observes how trash is now utilized in eco-art and gallery installations is the message suggesting that we can increasingly find a tidy place for the trash in our lives. Creative reuse needs to move beyond the glorification of trashion and recycled art projects in order to address long term solutions for waste reduction and sustainable economic development. Our primary focus should be on managing this toxic bloom via critically important economic, environmental, and health initiatives.

For sure, timeless design has a transcendent and culturally revealing quality, particularly when it comes to the innovative reuse of materials and cast-off bits. Are we currently aiding or hindering the sustainable fashion movement if we do not make a distinction between designs that measure up as genuine fashion innovation and those that are clever, eye-catching creations that make “trashion” seem fashionable?

Junky Styling‘s recycled men’s suit coats: an empowering approach

Creative reuse projects can be large or small. In the case of fashion, several bold designer initiatives have genuinely overhauled the industry’s patterns of waste and excess via the resourceful recycling of textile surplus and unsold stock. Standout labels like From Somewhere, Junky Styling, Goodone, and Reet Aus, to name a few, effectively take yesterday’s unwanted goods and artfully re-shape them into tomorrow’s covetable items. This design strategy is genuinely empowering for the fashion lover who is investing in environmentally sound and fashion-forward design.

From Somewhere‘s upcycling of Speedo’s LZR Racer designs

The recent collaboration of From Somewhere with Speedo to create a capsule collection upcycled from unsold and obsolete Speedo LZR Racer designs might seem like an odd pairing to some. However, an industrial fabric challenge like this clearly demonstrates how unwanted waste can be transformed into eco-luxe couture.

Recycling should and must be an engaging activity, particularly when it comes to labor-intensive DIY projects. Some of the most rewarding fashion moments are definitely those where something useless or outdated takes on new life with imaginative tinkering and whimsy. As Kate Black of Magnifeco recently shared with us:

“When it comes to recycling, we have obviously been doing it for years, in all cultures. Textiles that can no longer be used as garments are incorporated into household items like quilts and pillows and now it’s not just recycled textiles making the news in eco-fashion: candy wrapper handbags, pull-tab accessories are front and center, too.  When recycling or upcycling in fashion falls short, though, I generally find that it is from a taste perspective, not necessarily a design perspective.”

I wholeheartedly support projects that provide fair-trade jobs to artisans who create one-of-a-kind accessories and art-objects out of dumpster and landfill pickings, so I am certainly not attacking these folks for the honest craft and handwork that they do.

Ecoist ‘Botero’ handbag crafted out of candywrappers

I do think, however, that we should exercise caution regarding what is an increasing inclination to sanitize and incorporate trash into art, fashion, and design projects for our own aesthetic amusement. Let’s not forget that this everyday refuse should not exist in the first place, at least not in the volume that we are now grappling with. We need to ensure that we do not become de-sensitized to just how out of control our garbage epidemic is. It is one thing to source from surplus textile stock, recycle trash in the waste stream, and get one’s hands dirty with some gritty DIY projects, but not at the expense of garbage becoming a part of our ongoing design lexicon, much less the focus of our attention.

Via Trendhunter: A condom hat may be great for ginning up clicks, but it’s bad for eco fashion progress.

‘Trash to treasure’ is a dangerous term, and one that might soon need to be upgraded or upcycled within the sustainable fashion glossary. Our long term efforts should continue to be focused on cradle-to-cradle design initiatives, zero-waste garment production, acknowledgment of indigenous technologies and crafts that actually aid specific regions, and sustainable economic development that improves the lives of people everywhere so that they can move beyond having to rely on garbage as a means of livelihood.

Chris Jordan photography

The ready-made object is a surrealist phenomenon. Fashion is about personal expression and the ability to be transported to new layers and states of being. Let’s not allow ourselves to get swept up by “quirky” design projects that demonstrate how clever we can be with Coke tabs, Barbie doll heads, condoms, or heaps of televisions and computer monitors, all in the name of recycling – but in reality only keep our movement one step further from legitimate entree into mainstream fashion or, worse, from being taken seriously by leaders in the fashion world.

‘Household goods’… deceased Estate by Claire Healey and Shaun Cordelro

This is not meant as an attack on the resourceful re-purposing of waste materials for home, fashion, and personal use. Recycling is definitely a significant part of the sustainable fashion story, but recycling without an ability to edit is doing us no good.

There is a time and a place for trashion and art of this nature, but we have a responsibility to shift away from scenes that mimic the dying “portraits of global mass culture” (a la work of photographer Chris Jordan) as we look to a greener future.

Lead image courtesy of Goodone; Household goods images via The Sydney Morning Herald.

Drive small and thrive might well be the European motto. Green actions speak louder than words in Europe when it comes to energy and consumption and walking the walk. They ride bikes and walk more than we do to get around, use and waste less of our limited resources, have a different sense of space. Just don’t throw around terms like green and eco expecting everyone there to know what you mean.

Throughout my travels in Italy, the term “eco” got lost in translation – and I resorted to hand signs and terms such as nature and sun power to investigate the Italian practices or describe what I do for a living. Still, many signs show Europeans have as beat when it comes to practicing restraint in their lifestyles and consumption.

It could simply stem from resources like water and petrol being considered more precious. As a college student in England, I was told my gin and tonics lacked ice because freezing water for cocktails was frivolous. I suppose this also explained the dull hair many of us have witnessed in our European travels. Fewer showers are another concession to save. In this sense, French cologne is indispensable and might also be lauded as green.

Also woven into the culture is smaller, more economical cars and homes, due to population density, higher fuel costs and necessity. Honda Civics might be considered an adequate family car – not the minivan, which would be more for tourists. If you aren’t walking, biking or taking public transit, as more Europeans do as a matter of practicality and habit, then you are most likely tooting around in a compact (although power counts in certain circles where larger BMWs hold status).

“Whether in crowded cities like Rome or Budapest, or centuries-old villages, people get around on their own power,” notes eco travel writer, Wendy Worrall Redal. “It’s easier than negotiating jammed streets, finding scarce parking and paying $10 a gallon for gas. Age has nothing to do with it; you’re as likely to see a wrinkled grandmother toting a wheeled market cart or pedaling her cruiser, as you are more youthful cyclists.”

Here are some comparisons:

Banning Cosmetic Chemicals

Activists trying to rid our shelves and salons of toxic chemicals point to the fact the European Union has banned 1,100 chemicals in cosmetics, while the  Food and Drug Administration in America has only banned ten. The nasty agents the FDA approves cause cancer, birth defects, genetic mutation and organ damage. It appears our regulatory system has no authority to test cosmetic chemicals or require companies to conduct safety testing before selling. Definitions also vary. The FDA defines cosmetics on vague lingo to minimizing government interference form profiteering, while the The European Union Cosmetics Directive clearly puts thee health of the consumer first. Why are their laws more stringent? Undoubtedly the same reason why the government is loose on meat protections. It’s all about the money.

Cleaner Vino

First, there is the innate friendliness bred into the land. France was the first country to introduce anything remotely close to our concept of “organic” wine. Vineyards of the Loire region that involve small, organically-farmed estates, avoided pesticides as a matter of conscience to produce their grapes at a time Americans were pushing baby formula and frozen dinners. Beyond the spraying, is the transport of the bottle. A study analyzing wine carbon suggests East Coasters (New Yorkers and Miamians) are better off buying a Bordeaux than a Napa-based wine because the greenhouse gas emissions from shipping are far less than those from trucking.

Reduced Aviation Emissions

Speaking of transport, the European Union has led the way in reducing aviation emissions through its cap-and-trade system for carbon dioxide. Starting in 2012, all international flights landing in the Union must meet regulations capping emissions at 97 percent of the baseline (95 percent by 2012). The plan called for airlines with carbon shortfalls to purchase additional permits from European markets. Meanwhile, airport operator BAA has invested $1.65 billion on a green makeover of its terminal Heathrow East to cut carbon emissions by 40 percent. As the new home of Star Alliance Airlines, the upgrades involve solar panels on the roof, north-facing windows for natural lighting, and a new energy center using renewable resources for heat and air.

Eating and Drinking Less, Without Disposables

I will never forget a Weight Watchers meeting in which a member brought in a biscuit from England, saying they don’t supersize their teas with ginormous American-size chocolate chip cookies. The fact Europeans consume less food and walk more means they don’t struggle with diets the way Americans do. They also shun to-go cups, even at panini or espresso bars where if you need a paper cup to dash out, then you are clearly in too much of a hurry. Pasta isn’t piled sky high on a plate, but often served in an appetizer size portions, unless requested otherwise by an American. Again, the concept less is more is ingrained in the mentality – the same one that prefers quality over quantity. Sure, they smoke like fiends, but that’s another story.

Euro Trash: Switzerland Scores High on Recycling, While Europe As a Whole Lags

While there is a tendency to use less, Europe on the whole does seem to be lagging behind in the areas of recycling and composting trash. The BBC reported only 17.7 percent  of England’s households recycle, while the U.S recycles 28 percent of its waste. Still, Switzerland stands out as one country that is making strides, recycling 80 percent of its PET bottle drink containers, higher than the European average of 20 to 40 percent. The Swiss incentive is not just environmental, but also financial, since recycling is free while all trash bags require a sticker that cost one euro apiece. Without the stickers, trash will be left out to rot.

Images: pedrosimoes; Uggboy; idhren; my pouss; Mariamonastery; Kecko

As it turns out, throwing certain items into the recycling that you are utterly convinced can be recycled is actually worse for the environment. Oftentimes, bad items can taint an entire bin, resulting in the whole load going into a landfill. This largely depends on how well a city’s recycling facilities can sort. But it’s enough to throw a person into high anxiety with every trip to the waste bin.

Not to worry. Here’s a quick list of 10 surprising things on the “Do we or don’t we?” list. And always, if you’re in doubt about an item, check Earth911.com for a facility near you that may take your questionable trash bit.

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Pizza Boxes I know, I KNOW. It seems like these cardboard boxes are made for the recycling bins. But pizza boxes are often tainted with food and grease. Many items are recycled using a heat and water process, which is not problem for plastic and glass. But throw some cardboard soaked in oil into the process, and you’ve got a messy muck. Terry Gellenbeck is a solid waste administrative analyst for the City of Phoenix. As he told Earth911, “The oil causes great problems for the quality of the paper, especially the binding of the fibers. It puts in contaminants, so when they do squeeze the water out, it has spots and holes.”

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Wet Paper Paper fibers that have been soaked are shorter. This makes them less valuable to paper recyclers, who won’t collect and mill them.

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Plastic Bottle Caps Plastic bottle caps are considered less valuable on the market, so most recyclers won’t take them. Make sure you separate them from your plastic bottles. Also, you can check Earth911 to find a facility near you that does accept plastic bottle caps.

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Juice Boxes Check to see if your juice box is specially-processed for recycling. If it isn’t, you have to throw it in the trash. The plastic coating on much of the cardboard renders them unsuitable for recycling.

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Plastic Bags When recycling bins are sorted manually, workers cannot open plastic bags to see what is inside. It isn’t cost-effective and could be dangerous. So they get trashed. (Note: don’t put your plastic bottles and more in plastic bags.) You can often take your plastic bags back to the store for recycling – and consult Earth 911 again for places that will take them.

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Styrofoam Another one that kills me, because how many times do we get handed Styrofoam containers we don’t want? But Styrofoam is a petroleum product and, more importantly, highly flammable. It’s considered a danger to most recycling centers. Again, Earth 911 may provide locations that will take it from you.

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Wire Hangers Most recycling centers are not set up to handle wire. However, experts agree that your local dry cleaner may take them. Often, they reuse them or send them to a scrap metal dealer. Sure, they get the cash, but you get the knowledge you’re not sending wire hangers into the great abyss. Joan Crawford would be proud.

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Paper Napkins or Towels Again, food contamination often takes these paper products out of the running. Try to use wash clothes or handkerchiefs instead.

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Ceramics You would think that your old coffee mug would find a home in your recycling bin. Alas, they are not accepted at most recycling centers. Consider giving them a second life with a houseplant or in your garden.

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Heavily-Dyed Paper When paper is recycled, it is heat-treated. So if something is heavily dyed, it has the same outcome as a blue sock or red t-shirt thrown in with your whites in the washing machine. Consequently, a lot of paper mills won’t take the results. (Pastels are okay.) Life can still be colorful, just a bit toned down!

Images: mukluk, crabchick, kaz k, cogdogblog,stevendepolo,Urban Woodswalker,
eatatree, Michael_Lehet, noego, raphernalia_vintage, minor9th