Legend has it there was a time when you could move through the fashion boutiques, Murano shops and cafes of San Marcos Square without battling monstrous crowds. Friends of mine even speak of walking right into the Duomo, right on in. No sweating a one-hour line.

But these days, the main island of the famous Grand Canal is as packed as Disneyland in July, heaving with tour groups fresh off cruise ships and trains, eager to look, but not to buy.

While the spastic market hasn't exactly curbed travel to Venice, it has greatly affected spending. Cutting back is how we mend our broken economy and certainly in line with efforts to create a more sustainable green planet. But it spells disaster to vendors entirely dependent upon the tourist trade. And boy, are they steamed.

In one charming negozio I visited off the square, a weathered bleach-blonde Italian woman was holding her head in agony and sighing as visitors examined her delicate blown glass perfume bottles and animals.

"Is it all right to touch these?" I inquired, meekly, pawing an adorable mini glass fish bowl with itty-bitty glass goldfish.

"Please do, madam," she replied. "Please, go ahead and break something. It's the only way I'll make some money today."

I burst out laughing at her remark but the bizarre attitude I encountered in a fashion boutique called Pignaton wasn't so funny. A brunette saleswoman in her late 20s shadowed me at a furious pace, refolding Missoni sweaters and scarves I had touched, muttering naughty Italian words under her breath, words I hadn't learned in my San Francisco summer class.

"Look, I have to touch when I shop," I explained to my shadow,  thinking an Italian, of ...Read More

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This

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