ColumnNatalie Chanin’s bi-weekly column, Material Witness, offers a seasoned designer’s perspective on the fashion industry, textile history and what happens when love for community trumps all.

Last year, Alabama Chanin was included in the Starbucks campaign: Stories are Gifts – Share. See the video below. We met some lovely new friends – Jamie, David, and Luke – who traveled to Alabama to tell our story and celebrate with us.

A year later, it is nice to be reminded that home is a special place; your home and the people around you help create who you are. A home can be anywhere and your family can be made up of so many people, regardless of their biological relationship to you. Alabama Chanin was born out of my own “coming home,” of the distinct sense of place that is my community.

We often say that we at Alabama Chanin are a family. In fact, we say it so often that I fear it is beginning to sound a bit trite. But, please know that there is no underlying falseness in this sentiment. This family that we have created is the heart and soul of our company. We hope that you can feel it in everything that we do.

Embrace your family, whether they are yours by blood or by choice. Reach out to those who mean the most to you. To paraphrase my grandfather, a truly wise man: alone we can be weak and subject to the harshness of the world, to those who wish to hurt us or circumstances that may fracture our spirits; as a family, we can stand strong against those things that might wish to injure us. We are protected and supported, celebrated and loved.

Happy Holidays.

The Heart and Soul:

Natalie Chanin is owner and designer of the American couture line Alabama Chanin and author of three books including Alabama Stitch Book  (2008), Alabama Studio Style (2010) and the upcoming Alabama Studio Sewing + Design which comes out spring 2012. Look for her bi-weekly column, Material Witness here and follow her on Facebook and her own blog at Alabama Chanin.

How to get a great cup of coffee without walking into a coffee shop.

Each year, nearly 3 billion Starbucks disposable coffee cups end up in the landfill. While it’s easy to make Starbucks the bad guy, America’s preoccupation with take-out coffee extends beyond the Seattle-based chain. Nearly a quarter of all coffee drinkers in the U.S. drink coffee outside the comfort of their own homes, according to the latest report from the National Coffee Association.

But there are at-home alternatives beyond your standard, boring Mr. Coffee drip machine. The need for caffeine spans cultures and continents, resulting in hundreds of coffee making techniques from around the world. Here are seven of them.

Next time your caffeine craving hits, brew your Fair Trade beans en casa á la…

Moka Pot (macchinetta del caffè)

These simple stove top devices brew a grade of joe comparable to that of professional espresso machines. No wonder the Italians love it.

Vietnamese Coffee

The process is easy: load filter with coffee, place on top of coffee cup, pour hot water. Traditionally served with condensed milk and sugar.

Kyoto slow-drip coffee

It takes hours to produce a single serving, but coffee connoisseurs go nuts for it.

Vacpot

Also called a siphon coffee maker, these devices went out of vogue after World War II but resurfaced in the coffee-crazed late-90s in San Francisco.

Turkish Coffee

Though Americans know it as Turkish, the process of boiling coffee grounds in a small pot is popular across the Middle East and Northern Africa.

French Press 

While it’s popularly known as a French Press, the cafetière is actually an Italian invention, patented by Milanese designer Attilio Calimani in 1929.

South Indian Coffee

The secret to this coffees milky flavor is a 70-30 blend of dark roasted coffee beans and chicory, an herb that allows the water to extract more flavor from the beans. Serve with boiling milk and sugar.

Images: Davidd, Lilian Wong, McKay Savage, D’Arcy Norman, Eatomatic, A Quirky Blog, Christian Kadluba, Will Bakker, Patrick Tschudin, Fredo, Magnus D

Is it possible to find a logo-free drinking vessel? Almost. 

This weekend, our EIC Sara Ost sent me an email lamenting the fact that finding a logo-free hot beverage vessel in today’s marketplace is circa impossible. After conducting some research myself, I have to agree.

Yes, carting around disposable cups from Starbucks is lame, especially with so many stylish alternatives out there. But what of being a walking, sipping advertisement for said company, your work’s softball team, the last charity event your mom participated in, and so on and so forth? I like Sigg, but until they start paying me to carry their bottles around, I don’t see why I’m paying them up to $25 for services rendered.

Well, here are three semi-decent reasons in Smoked Pearl, Nature’s Return and Sun Salutation:

And here are four (though technically, three) just as acceptable ones that let you drink and slurp cold-weather beverages in logo-free bliss.

This BPA-free, stainless steel vacuum tumbler from Adesso will keep your hot beverages well-insulated and pretty.

Did you know Thermos was an actual brand, like Kleenex? I had no idea. But they don’t bang on about it, which is why this double walled vacuum insulated mug plus serving cup will work for us.

Stanley makes a basic black travel mug made from eCycle, a mix of recycled plastics that’s equally as recyclable.

This is kind of a tricky one. The Bamboo Bottle Company is, indeed, a company. As such, they’ve got their logo all over this BPA-free hot water vessel made from bamboo and glass. Admittedly, totally counter to our argument. But forgivable given their innovative use of bamboo and their small, up-and-coming, eco-company status.

Can we get away with it? Almost.

Images: Chialion; Pop Deluxe; Thermos; Working Person; Sigg; Bamboo Bottle Company

Creeping ever closer to the McDonald’s model, Starbucks has poured it on with the new Trenta serving size. Do we need another supersize product that tempts our taste buds and throws rationality out the door? Of course not. No one should be drinking 31 ounces of double, mocha, frappy, whatever.

But we can’t blame Starbucks. Sure, the new cup can hold an entire bottle of wine (wait, does Starbucks sell wine?), but the company is a business, functioning on the principles of supply and demand, which means the coffee giant is marketing to a nation of consumers who are compelled to go bigger.

What drives us to big over small, more over less, when we know there are smarter choices?

To put it in the words of a friend who minces no words: “Maybe we’re just a confederacy of super dunces.”

Maybe. But as Sara Ost put it today, “you’re powerful,” and that means you can and should opt against 31 ounce drinks, unless of course it’s water. When it comes to food, it’s tempting to grab the fast, cheap and easy, but we all know that the real costs are externalized.

The less is more attitude when it comes to food is nothing new. Choosing less instead of more isn’t just beneficial to your physical health, it also keeps you more sane. Pick up any women’s magazine and you’ll find an article on simplifying your life. We spend ample amounts of time and money on organizational products, from planners to shelving systems, and yet we can’t seem to slim down our pantries.

How do we go about doing that?

1. Make a list. Check it twice.

Take a moment to go through your refrigerator, rethink your core items and narrow your shopping list to healthier options. Review your go-to recipes for the week and make a list of the staples that you need to keep on hand. Having a go to selection of fruits, vegetables and grains will mean you can whip together a handful of simple recipes without going beyond the basics.

2. Stick to what you know.

Trust your gut. Despite our love for Amy’s ready-made meals, we can’t rely on processed microwave dinners even if they’re vegan and organic. It’s too easy to let our brains slip in the heat of an eating moment. Try to keep your healthy, rational self in check.

3. Commit to reducing.

Maybe it’s your guilty pleasure of afternoon pudding cups or a morning break of a muffin, but above all, start small. No one is asking you to revolutionize your cooking ways, but just like you slowly start cutting out single use plastics and replacing them with reusable bags, you can do the same with your food choices. Organic dinner party? Check. All fruit smoothie instead of the double whipped vanilla latte? Check. Handful of almonds instead a snack bag of Cheetos? Check. After all, constraints don’t limit your creativity, they fuel it.

Image: jenny downing

In a former life, I worked at an agency and I can remember the day we celebrated landing Starbucks as a client. The young-at-heart caffeine king had some hip and clever style, which got our creative department’s juices flowing, and they were based in Seattle – a bonus for quick runs from SF to a city that was a pretty cool place to suffer business trips. Most important, though, was Starbucks’ relatively positive reputation. Though all agreed that the coffee monster was a local-corner-coffee-shop killer, clients with an earth-and-employee-friendly rep were few and far between.

I also remember the first time I arrived on-site at the company’s headquarters. Behind the well-designed doors, past the state-of-the-art eco-office interior, and inside the elegant, glassy and awesomely coffeed conference rooms, our kick-off meeting was (drum roll) … just like any other. It was about time and money and effective communication and, you know what? It occurred to me that that was just fine. That’s what a corporation is supposed to have meetings about, and despite a recent and inane court ruling, they – excuse me – it is not human and it should not be expected to display human qualities. I mean, the people were nice and all, but the purpose of our being there couldn’t have been clearer: It was time to do business.

That said, the Starbucks story – and the fact that as we speak the company is so frantically trying figure out what to do about its damn paper cups – is a pretty good one.

Here’s the deal with the cups: About 3 billion of the more than 200 billion paper cups that end up in U.S. dumps each year are from Starbucks. This is a bad thing and the company has been flailing around for years now trying to figure out what to do about it. Reports Triple Pundit, Starbucks says “disposing of the cups is the top environmental concern of its customers. The angst over the problem has reached the highest levels of the company.”

Supposedly, eco-focused CEO Howard Schultz has promised that by 2012 all Starbucks cups will be recyclable.

They even had a really big meeting about it. Earlier this year, Starbucks hosted its second Cup Summit at MIT, hosting “municipalities, raw material suppliers, cup manufacturers, retail and beverage businesses, recyclers, NGOs, and academic experts together to drive the development of solutions that will make both paper and plastic cups more broadly recyclable.” Attendees even included competitors such as Dunkin’ Donuts and McDonald’s.

This all fits in with the Starbucks’ green-and-all-around good-guy thing, says Fast Company, as “the company is pursuing more LEED certifications and working toward a goal of purchasing 100 percent fair-trade and Coffee and Farmer Equity-certified coffee by 2015.” Indeed, the Starbucks as standout corporate citizen story is well documented – and well marketed.

Now this shouldn’t translate into a non-critical or even a non-judgmental approach to the whole Starbucks phenomenon. Anti-union issues and the previously mentioned local-shop carnage aside, no matter how green a process and product, more stuff – and more stores – means just that, and no spin can erase that footprint. (See “Green? Perhaps. But iPads Don’t Grow on Trees.”) Says Fast Company: “Environmentally… Starbucks has bigger concerns than disposable cups. Its 8,832 company-owned stores and its international supply chain both affect resource use and climate change more than cups in the trash.”

On the other hand, I’m not calling into question the intentions of Schultz and his reportedly hopped-up-on-the-environment team. They do seem to be doing some good in a world where big business is more known for its trail of slime than caring about what is left in our dumps. Nevertheless, they are corporate folk and they represent a money-making team that’s busily trying to bounce back after their stock hit a “multi-year low” in 2008.

What’s good about all this is that a major corporate player knows the concerns of its customers and that it sees its competitive advantage, its winning formula, if you will, as pounding out a constant and consistently green drumbeat. Yes, the only establishment to ever make Cat Stevens seem corporate knows that a good many of us care about those cups and have a habit of buying into, literally, feeling better about our ourselves. (I’m partial to Triple Grande Lattes and my editor, I’m sure, has her own formula regarding the relationship between my word count and my caffeine intake.)

And it’s here where we note what famous criminal Willie Sutton supposedly told a reporter when asked why he robbed banks: “That’s where the money is.” In today’s marketing world, to a growing extent, green is where the money is.

So consider Starbucks a bit of gauge regarding one of our biggest hopes – the extent to which committing to the approach makes sound economic sense in terms of how it plays with consumers. This is not to say that the corporate world will ever see the light. In fact, it has no eyes to see. What it does have is a nose for coin. And Starbucks is following its nose. As a result, hopefully, they’ll figure out what to do with their damn cups.

Image: serendipitys

Starbucks: people either love ‘em or loathe ‘em. My husband likes their coffee and admires their business brains. I, on the other hand, can’t stand them for their homogenized, yuppie style. Having grown up in grunge-era Seattle, once a land of artsy coffee shops crammed with kitschy sofas and local color, cookie-cutter Starbucks look to me like a department store: void of soul and chock-full of useless merchandise.

But how bad is Starbucks, really? I decided to find out.

1. Clean water is such a precious commodity in the world these days, but Starbucks didn’t seem to care. Their “leave the tap running all day” policy created an eco-scandal to the tune of 23 million litres wasted every day. Less than a year later, they’re installing water-saving faucets which purport to reduce water wastage by 150 gallons per day, per store. Note, they only changed their wasteful ways after they got caught.

2. Although some people claim that having a Starbucks in the neighborhood is actually good for local mom & pop cafes, the long-running belief is that Starbucks turns the uniquely local neighborhood vibe into cookie-cutter corporate…well, crap. Perhaps it’s really just a matter of taste, but most of your dollars spent at a Starbucks location will end up in the pockets of distant executives – and not circulate in your local economy.

3. Ever keen to new marketing strategies, Starbucks has decided to co-opt the unique neighborhood vibe. What you think is your local indie cafe might actually be a Starbucks in disguise. To try and get the business of economic locavores, Starbucks has sent out scouts to cop the look and feel of various neighborhoods, then create a “unique” coffeeshop under a different name. Some might call this a brilliant business strategy, but I think it’s pretty underhanded.

4. Then there was the Ethiopian coffee debacle. In 2006, the Ethiopian government attempted to trademark regional coffees such as Sidamo and Harar because these specialty brews sell for up to $26 a pound, with only about $1 getting back to the Ethiopian coffee farmers. Starbucks, working through the National Coffee Association, blocked Ethiopia’s trademark bid, helping ensure the continuation of poverty in an already impoverished region.

5. Did you hear about the tip scandal? A former (and clearly disgruntled) Starbucks barista successfully sued the corporation on behalf of all California baristas in a class action law suit. Starbucks was ordered to pay $100 million to baristas to make up for tips that had been given to shift supervisors. It sounds like the ultimate low blow, but there is a grey area here: although California law prohibits managers and supervisors from receiving tips, Starbucks’ shift supervisors do help customers and make coffee. They’re paid much more than the baristas; do they also deserve a cut of the tips?

6. After years of customers haggling them for recycling bins, or at least recyclable cups, Starbucks has finally launched a recycling pilot program. Puh-lease…coffee shops the world over have already had recycling and composting systems in place for years. Starbucks should have been able to do better, and faster – why has it taken them so long to jump on the greenwagon?

7. Starbucks has decided to increase their purchases of Fair Trade coffee – but that’s only after years of pressure from Fair Trade groups. Considering that the worldwide coffee trade is a huge source of oppression and poverty in third world countries, buying Fair Trade goes far to support better wages and working conditions for coffee farmers. So far, only a small percentage of Starbucks coffee will actually be Fair Trade Certified, but they’ve still created a marketing campaign around it. I’d expect better from a large corporation; since Starbucks is large enough for the world to pay attention to its products, they could push some powerful change by using their influence for the greater good.

8. No matter what they do to be a little more green, if Starbucks won’t pour coffee into a reusable mug, they’ll never win my heart. My husband informed me of his own infuriating Starbucks experience where they refused to fill his travel mug, instead handing him his latte in a disposable paper cup and telling him he could fill his travel mug himself. He’s not the only one who’s had eco efforts thwarted like this at Starbucks.

9. And besides, McDonald’s beat Starbucks in a coffee taste test. Ouch!

So what do you think? Personally, I think Starbucks can do better and set a positive example for the coffee business in general, but they won’t do that unless they feel the heat from customers.

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Image: D3 San Francisco

“What size cup would you like? Small, Medium, Large, Super, Tall, Grande, Venti, Super-Venti, Hungover or perhaps Recession Special?”

“None of the above, please.”

It’s a dream I have. Follow me on a choose-your-own-post journey into the What If.

It’s the future, a greener, more enlightened time. You drop in on your local coffee vendor – let’s call it McStarMart – ready for a cup of exquisitely roasted bean-juice to kick start your day. You’re standing quietly in the queue, and – something odd is going on.

People are reaching into their pockets and bags and briefcases, and they’re pulling out mugs of all shapes and kinds. When they reach the counter, they pass them to the barista, who fills them up with their beverage of choice.

There are no disposable cups.

All the machines have counters on them, the numbers whirling when the taps are opened, and you realise that people are being charged for how much liquid goes into their own mugs.

When they’ve finished their drink, they bring the mug to the counter where the barista washes it for them and hands it back. Everyone’s cup is daubed in fun colors and has their name.

This was all sparked by reading Shawna Coronado’s Great Coffee Cup Challenge last week. Then I read the same thing at WiseBread and elsewhere. And it got me thinking.

Isn’t using recycled material for disposable cups still ducking the real issue – that we’re throwing things away? We all have our favorite mugs at work so why not take them out into the street? Take-outs are more fun, and drinking in-house becomes more homey.

How to start?

Coffeehouses should reward people who bring their own, such as knocking $0.50 off the price. They already sell mugs, for Peet’s sake.

In the meantime, I’m going to take a mug into ye olde Starbucks and ask them to fill it. I used to work there in my student days and they already know I’m eccentric, so I’m sure they’ll oblige my green bean yen.

Image: Sarah Jane

First, a link we’ve mentioned before (what’s that called, a relink?) but worth repeating because it’s a foodie’s treasure trove – it’s 50 of the world’s best food blogs. My personal favorite is Chez Pim, where I first learned how to sun-dry my own tomatoes without using the sun – jolly handy for us Brits.

This is upcycling par excellence: yarn created from the unlikeliest of sources including plastic netting, VHS tape, newspaper and human hair! Thanks to Matt and CraftStylish for this one – but as green as it is, the people-hair thing, well, must dash, bye.

Looking to build a new house for next to no money? Dan Phillips is the man to see. His house is 85% landfill – and as you can see in this Texas Country Reporter video, it looks terrific. So far Dan’s helped 8 families build and purchase a recycled home – could yours be number 9?

If you want a reminder that the wrong types of cosmetics, deodorants and chemical cleaners are causing havoc when they spill into the environment, look at the state of Chesapeake Bay and Puget Sound – and that’s 30 years after the Clean Water Act kicked in. (Or take a look at what Luanne discovered last year).

Starbucks continues to play Good Cop and Bad Cop – hot on the heels of this public relations disaster, the company has announced it’s investing heavily in Fair Trade practices, aiming to supporting the development of small-scale farming initiatives with a $20 million investment. Good recovery, guys (and thanks, Treehugger).

Is there anything that looks more shabby than dirty, ripped advertisements peeling off billboards and oozing neglect? Therefore, logic dictates, is there anything potentially classier than advertisements made from natural, temporary materials, such as wheat, sea water and snow? The name of the most exciting thing to hit marketing this year is Curb – and Ecopreneurist has more details.

Obama has just signed a $5.7 billion bill to triple the size of AmeriCorps, touching the lives of millions of people. And every one of them is a starfish.

There’s a word with which science-led types like me are usually uncomfortable. It’s not something you can nail down with hi-tech testing and maths and statistical formulae. But it’s an undeniable part of our relationship with the natural world, so we need to look it in the face and grow comfortable with it. And it’s married with the word “ecology” here, at Green By Design.

Nixon! Sorry to scare you there. The famously grubby-pawed President has become something of a metaphor for monstrous evildoing in recent years (take Futurama‘s depiction). Yet it was Nixon’s administration that created the Environmental Protection Agency. Should we be kinder to his legacy? Well, no – but perhaps we should be a little grateful.

Now here’s a vital question: what happens when we start looking long and hard at how rampant commercialism is affecting people during their most impressionable time – childhood? Jennifer Lance at Eco Child’s Play cites the disturbing way that Disney is targeting young boys, apparently enlisting the help of “a researcher with a background in the casino industry”. Where’s the line?

Ugh – celebs. What are they like? Flying their personal trainers back and forth, owning their own private jet fleet, cutting down Giant Redwoods to make toothpicks for their dogs (okay, I made that one up). But while we love to hate celebs, we should also love to love them as well – taking as an example the work of Jane Kaczmarek (Malcolm in the Middle), seen here at Razoo. If you need further convincing, take a look at Kaczmarek’s “Clothes Off Our Back” Foundation.

Feel like your brain has been taxed enough this week? Feeling the urge to fling oranges at illegal loggers? Thought so. Well then, here’s how, thanks to some people at Tropicana with an overabundance of time on their hands. Fruits away!

So many new green sites to keep up with. Take GreenDig, which we definitely do dig now that we’ve had the chance to catch up with it, even though it started up last year. Slow down, Internets!

Eco-news isn’t all bad, as Cailtin recently demonstrated – and if you’re looking for an even more epic shot in the arm, read through these 10 truly colossal green projects that have world-changing significance. Guaranteed to replace the spring in your step!

Finally, an important and timely safety announcement. Beware blueberry waffle mix – more specifically, of becoming an ingredient of it. That is all.

Image: Dreamtroll