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Slow Going at Slow Food (And That’s the Point)

Vanessa Barrington — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 17:18:19 +0000

A rift in slow food reveals big growing pains.

The foodiverse was all atwitter over this article from Chow last week. A rift has been forming between two factions within Slow Food USA, a non-profit organization that promotes the pleasures of the table, artisanal food production methods, sustainable agriculture, and direct connections between producers and consumers.

On one side is what we’ll call the Alice Waters faction that thinks food is too cheap to keep farmers who are doing the right thing in business and that people should prioritize food over consumer goods – and pay more for it. On the other side is some of the newer leadership of Slow Food that seeks to counter the charges of elitism that have continued to dog the organization, and to broaden its appeal to a younger, broker, and less well-connected demographic.

Think $20 pasture-raised chickens compared to Slow Food’s Recent $5 meal challenge. In some ways, switching its focus to value, rather than preciousness has helped Slow Food. Membership is up. But, according to the Chow article, donations are down from well-heeled donors who are unhappy with the organization’s new direction.

Critics insist that Slow Food must reach more people or risk being irrelevant to most of the population. Anna Smith Clark, The San Francisco Bay Area Governor of Slow Food agrees, but also thinks the laser-like focus in the media on higher profile elements around Slow Food do the organization a disservice. She points out that ordinary members within the organization are continually finding ways to disseminate the ideals behind Slow Food to different groups. “There’s nothing written about the people who volunteer hours of their time planting the seeds of change in their communities among their friends and family members, or working with like-minded organizations,” says Smith Clark.

Discussions about Slow Food tend to focus on the need of reaching two specific groups: low income people and well-off foodies. For low income people the message is that it doesn’t have to be expensive or time-consuming to cook local, organic, real food, while the message for foodies is that when they fetishize taste, no matter the cost, they leave out a huge proportion of the population, for whom their message is useless.

As Slow Food grows up and the focus shifts away from its famous founders, there’s a third group that it will be crucial to reach: The enormous swath of the population with plenty of money to pay for good food, but who simply doesn’t care. This group doesn’t care about farmers, doesn’t care where food comes from, doesn’t care if it has additives, doesn’t care if it has too much packaging. Some probably doubt that organic is even healthier. Let’s call them the honey badgers of the consumer food market. They really don’t give a sh*t.

If you’re a foodie living in a foodie bubble, you might forget these people exist. To remind yourself of the reality, go to a high-end conventional grocery store in any town in America, look at the cars in the parking lot, and watch what people put in their carts. It’s not a rarity to spot someone walking to a late model Mercedes or $70,000 Escalade with a grocery cart full of hundreds of dollars’ worth of processed, packaged food. Stacks of hot pockets, multiple giant boxes of Froot Loops, cases of Coca-Cola, jars of cheese dip, enormous bags of chips, and nary a fresh (or even frozen) vegetable in sight. Now go hang out around the parking lot of a fast food outlet in any well-off suburb, and notice how busy the drive-thru is.

So how does Slow Food reach those people? Smith Clark says people gravitate to the ideas of Slow Food around any number of issues, from concern for farm workers to childhood obesity. They get little tidbits of knowledge from community, news, friends, and family members, and at some point, the flashbulb lights up: “What are you going to do with the money in your pocket?” I ask if there isn’t some way to reach these people more quickly than these myriad individual conversations.

“I think that’s why it’s called Slow Food,” replies Smith Clark.

The honey badgers of the consumer food market vote. Changing the food system so that it is fair for both farmers and eaters is going to mean breaking the stranglehold the food industry has on food policy. Good food advocates need to reach the honey badgers and convince them that organic, sustainable food is not only better, but it’s also worth paying for, spending time cooking, and going to the polls for. Until then, you can pay all you want for chicken and heirloom vegetables at the farmers’ market, but the fast majority of food will still be processed, a lot of family farmers will still be impoverished, and those $20 chickens will continue to reach only a niche market. It’s going to take time. That’s why it’s a movement, not a revolution.

ALSO CHECK OUT:

Be Still my Beeping Crackberry: In Defense of Slow

Slow Fashion Alchemy

Slow, Meet Furniture. Furniture, Meet Your Maker.

This is the latest installment in Vanessa Barrington’s weekly column, The Green Plate, on the environmental, social, and political issues related to what and how we eat.

Image: Lifesupercharger

The Green Plate: Flare-Ups In Frankenfood

Vanessa Barrington — Thu, 20 Jan 2011 17:59:02 +0000

The GMO industry is like an out-of-control forest fire. Just when you think one section is tamped down, another spark is fanned into flames.

Just like a forest fire, there are many fronts in this fight, making it difficult to keep track of current developments.

Then there are the weapons at the fighters’ disposal. On one side of the battle, we have the equivalent of 5 gallon water buckets in the form of activist group petitions, email newsletters, and calls to Congressional representatives. On the other side, there are air tankers in the form of money and the influence it can buy (even to the point of influencing foreign governments). Increasingly, there’s something much more insidious than that on the side of GMOs – I’m going to go ahead and call it espionage.

Earlier this month, The Guardian reported that recently released WikiLeaks cables documented how diplomats in the Bush Administration had attempted to influence The Vatican to voice its support for biotech crops. Other leaks showed how embassy officials in France had urged the U.S government to retaliate, through unfavorable trade policies, against countries in the EU that refused to approve GMO crops.

Equally shocking, an article in The Nation last fall about Blackwater (the private security firm that has come under fire for its role in Iraq regarding massacres of innocent civilians, and has since rebranded) detailed how Monsanto hired Total Intelligence Solutions (a firm owned by Blackwater founder and owner Erik Prince) to infiltrate and spy on anti-GMO groups. The article states that Monsanto hired Total Intelligence in 2008-09 to act as an intelligence arm of Monsanto to survey the Internet activity of activist groups and protect the Monsanto brand. Internal emails obtained by The Nation talked about how individuals from Total Intelligence could join activist groups (especially animal rights activists) and report back on group activities.

Now that we know what we’re up against weapon-wise, here’s a rundown of current hot spots in GMOs:

GE Alfalfa: The most urgent issue right now is the imminent approval of GE alfalfa by the USDA. Read about how GE alfalfa will jeopardize organic food and farmers here. Take Action here. You have until February 16^th.

GE Salmon: The FDA decision on GE salmon is stalled so the fight has moved to California. With the feds unwilling to listen to consumer groups, these issues are increasingly up to the states. In the event that GE salmon is approved, California has a bill that would require any GE salmon sold in California to be labeled. Take action here.

GE Sugar Beets: In early December, Judge Jeffrey White, a Federal Judge in Northern California ordered genetically modified sugar beets to be pulled from the ground and destroyed after determining that the beets were approved by the Agriculture Department and planted illegally without proper environmental review. Now the USDA and the sugar industry are predicting a shortage of sugar, but it’s a shortage they manufactured . When Judge White originally ruled that the USDA had violated environmental laws by not conducting a full review before approving the crop in 2005 he warned that future beet harvests would likely need to rely on conventional seed. According to the New York Times, the judge expressed irritation that the USDA and Monsanto waited almost a year after his ruling to enact interim measures to ensure farmers would have enough conventional seed. No action to take on this one right now, but definitely an issue to watch.

This is the latest installment in Vanessa Barrington’s weekly column, The Green Plate, on the environmental, social, and political issues related to what and how we eat.

Image: Olibac

The 10 Biggest Issues With the Global Food System

Vanessa Barrington — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 09:01:32 +0000

If you ask food experts like Michael Pollan, Marian Nestle, Gary Nabhan, Vandana Shiva, and numerous other writers and scholars what the biggest problems in our global, industrialized food system are, you’ll end up with a lot to chew on.

It’s difficult to separate the problems into discrete categories because everything is connected. Big problems lead to seemingly smaller problems, that, when allowed to fester, become open wounds – much like the foul waste lagoons on industrial pig farms that dot our landscape, or the actual wounds on human flesh caused by antibiotic resistant staph infections, which are a direct result of the overuse of antibiotics in livestock operations.

Most of the problems in the system stem from one giant problem: Concentration of power, land, wealth, and political influence in the hands of a few large players who have gamed the system for their benefit. Here are the biggest issues, as we see them, followed by suggestions for what you can do about them.

1. Food Safety

Big players in the meat, dairy, eggs, and bagged greens industries are unsafe at any speed. Nobody paying attention to the news over the past few years could have missed the biggest food recall stories, nor the very real harm and deaths that have resulted from many of them. E-coli in beef has sickened many, killed some, and ruined lives. Recently, salmonella tainted pasteurized milk was pulled from shelves. Nobody could have missed the recent recall of about a half a billion eggs, and there have been numerous recalls of bagged greens – the most recent in June. These stories are becoming nearly every day occurrences, leaving us to wonder if our food system is DESIGNED to kill us. The problem is a direct result of lax food safety enforcement laws and lack of inspectors. This is at least partially because industry lobbies make sure that inconvenient regulations are not passed. Concentration in the industry also leads to over-crowded, sadistic farm operations requiring the use of massive doses of non-therapeutic antibiotics and grown hormones, and resulting in air and water pollution that contribute to a host of environmental and public health nightmares, and misery for the animals trapped in the system.

What can you do about it?

Know your farmers, ask about their practices and support what they are doing. You’ll eat better, you’ll worry less and you’ll support a better food system. When bagged spinach was first recalled a few years ago, I knew that the spinach in my CSA box was fine. Likewise, during the recent egg recall, I worried not a whit about the pastured eggs I buy at the farmers’ market.

2. Declining Wild Fish Stocks

As Taras Grescoe pointed out in Bottomfeeder and Paul Greenberg most recently outlined in Four Fish, we eat too many of a very few species of wild fish – mostly the ones that are higher on the food chain. Continuing in this vein will cause the eventual decimation of our oceans.

What can you do about it?

Branch out and try something new. Eat bait, or smaller fish, like anchovies, sardines, and small Spanish mackerel. These fish are more sustainable, more plentiful, more resilient, and healthier for you than the larger predators.

3. Poor Aquaculture Practices

Aquaculture may be an important food source in the future (see above) but much of it is practiced in ways that are unhealthy for eaters, native species and the environment. If GMO salmon is approved, (still pending at press time) it will only add to the list of everything that is wrong with farming carnivorous fish in the open ocean. Don’t replace that salmon on your plate with shrimp. Ever wonder why the shrimp is so cheapat restaurants like Red Lobster?

What can you do about it?

Educate yourself on sustainable aquaculture. In general, only eat farmed fish that are natural vegetarians and only buy from suppliers that are transparent about the origins of their fish.

4. Genetically Modified Crops

Besides being untested for their effects on human health, genetically modified seeds don’t necessarily produce greater yields, and can lead to over-application of pesticides that in turn can cause super weeds which have the potential to threaten overall biodiversity, and to contaminate non-gmo crops with their genetic material. The most recent case involving GMOS ended badly when the USDA issued permits allowing GMO sugar beets to be planted in defiance of a federal judge. The judge had issued a decision to stop the planting of GMO sugar beets on the grounds that they may cross-pollinate table beets and Swiss chard. Despite the fact that most other countries have laws outlawing or requiring the labeling of GMO foods, our government continues to bow down to industry.

What can you do about it?

Educate yourself about which crops are commonly genetically modified and only buy organic versions. Better yet, support the companies involved in the non-GMO project. These are the companies willing to go out on a limb and actually test their organic ingredients to make sure they are not contaminated. Also, raise your voice and let the USDA and our legislators know that you don’t want GMOS!

5. Exploitation of Workers

From actual documented slavery in Florida’s tomato fields, to daily pesticide exposure in farming communities, to the fact that America’s lowest paying jobs are in fast food restaurants – our food system crushes workers, ruins their health, and keeps them in poverty so that they need the cheap, processed, industrialized food to survive.

What can you do about it?

This is a tough one, because buying from local, organic farms isn’t necessarily the answer. Even the nicest local, organic farms don’t pay their workers much and require long hours of backbreaking work. The farmers often work just as hard and can’t even afford health insurance for themselves or their families, so even if they want to do better by their workers, they can’t. This is where raising your voice for a more fair government policy that benefits small farmers equally can help. The new USDA is doing a better job clamping down on the big guys and supporting small-scale farmers than ever before, but we’ve got a ways to go.
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6. Lack of Equal Access

You’ve no doubt heard the term food desert. Our food system is unjust because it does not provide healthy, affordable food to everyone. People in urban areas often have no access to any fresh food at all because there are no grocery stores. Likewise, rural residents in the heart of agricultural areas sometimes cannot afford to buy the very food they may help to harvest. According to a survey of farm workers in Fresno, county – conducted by The California Institute of Rural Studies – in 2007, 45 percent faced food insecurity. Also, children who are hungry at home are more likely to depend on school lunch programs for most of their nourishment. Even the kids know what a disaster that is. A society that allows such a large percentage of its citizens to go hungry or rely on unhealthy foods that make them sick is shameful.

What can you do about it?

It’s not enough to vote with your fork. Volunteer with and give money to organizations that work on food access issues. There are many. A good place to start is The Community Food Security Coalition.

7. Not Enough People Engaged in Agriculture

Somebody’s got to grow all that food, but farmers are getting older and farming has long been in decline as a career choice. That’s because the system favors machine over man and profits over everything. This means lack of opportunities for farmers to earn a living wage that allows them to buy food and health insurance (see point five from last week). And it’s also unsustainable. (See point number 9 below). If we want to continue to eat, we’re going to have to get more people engaged in farming and we’re going to need to integrate agriculture into society.

What can you do about it?

One way is to grow your own, support neighborhood and school gardens, and urban agriculture. But the real change has to happen at the policy level, so speak up. Now is the time to start working with groups engaged in guiding policy for the next farm bill, such as The National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition.

8. Monocrops

Monocropping is bad for the environment because it’s chemical dependent, harmful to wildlife and ecosystems, and kills the soil. It also increases the chances of famine due to lack of crop diversity. It makes communities dependent on imports of other needed crops, instead of fostering self-reliance. Processed packaged foods depend on monocrops, like palm oil, that cause deforestation and push indigenous people off their land, and soy, which is often genetically modified. (See point 4 from last week). In particular, soy monocropping is causing tensions in Argentina, as it displaces other types of farms.

What can you do about it?

Don’t buy packaged, processed food. Buy fresh, local foods grown by farmers with diverse operations. Cook real food from scratch in your own kitchen.

9. Finite Resources

Our modern, industrialized food system is dependent on fossil fuel based inputs and an unlimited supply of water and soil. All of these things are finite. Add to that that the food system is one of the biggest contributors to climate change, and it’s clear that we cannot continue the way we are going. We have to find a better way.

What can you do about it?

This problem is bigger than all of us but you can keep voting with your fork for the food system you want. And if you get into an argument with your uncle about how we can possibly feed the world with organic agriculture, say what Michael Pollan has said, “how do we know? We’ve never tried.” (paraphrased)

10. Biofuel Production

Of course it would be easier to simply continue doing things the way we have been and just find another way to fuel our wasteful ways, but that’s not going to work. Replacing fossil fuels with biofuels made from virgin agricultural crops (as opposed to recycled vegetable oil) could devastate our food system and environment. Biofuels, which are made from corn, palm oil, sugar cane and other agricultural products, are monocrops (see point eight) so they have the same potential to cause deforestation and other environmental problems. They also displace people and cause the price of basic commodities to rise, which is devastating to poor people who spend a large proportion of their income on food.

What can you do about it?

This is another bigger-than-all-of-us problem, but you can do your small part by reducing energy use, driving less, and speaking up for sane urban and suburban planning and smart energy policies.

This is the latest installment in Vanessa Barrington’s weekly column, The Green Plate, on the environmental, social, and political issues related to what and how we eat.

Images: chronos-tachyon, Danielle Scott, Muffet, Jonathan Assink, avlxyz, unanoslucror, lucianvenutian, ebruli, Jeffrey Beall, Daisy Double Oh, MSVG, Calc-Tufa, 91RS

The 10 Biggest Issues With the Global Food System: Part 1 of 2

Vanessa Barrington — Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:35:24 +0000

1. Food Safety

What can you do about it?

2. Declining Wild Fish Stocks

What can you do about it?

3. Poor Aquaculture Practices

What can you do about it?

Educate yourself on sustainable aquaculture. In general, only eat farmed fish that are natural vegetarians and only buy from suppliers that are transparent about the origins of their fish.

4. Genetically Modified Crops

What can you do about it?

5. Exploitation of Workers

What can you do about it?

Be sure to come back next week for parts 5 – 10!

This is the latest installment in Vanessa Barrington’s weekly column, The Green Plate, on the environmental, social, and political issues related to what and how we eat.

Images: Danielle Scott, Muffet, Jonathan Assink, avlxyz, unanoslucror, lucianvenutian

How Family Farming Revitalizes Local Economies

Vanessa Barrington — Thu, 16 Sep 2010 17:57:12 +0000

If you’ve been shopping at Northern California Farmers’ Markets for several years, you may have noticed that the farmer demographics are slowly shifting and that the farmers selling produce are more ethnically and racially diverse than in past years. You may also notice that many of these farmers are Latino. Some of these newer farmers are graduates of a program called the Agricultural and Land-Based Training Association (ALBA).

A little background: The passage of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) in 1994 can be directly linked to immigration from Mexico to the United States.

Subsidized corn from the US flooded Mexican markets, forcing farmers to leave their farms in search of other opportunities.

Many rural farmers from corn producing states in Mexico migrated to urban centers and many others migrated to the United States to find work. Plenty of those former Mexican farmers ended up as low-paid, seasonal farm workers, with little hope for their family’s future.

The same agricultural system that benefited from newly opened markets benefited from the cheap labor that entered the US as a result of opening the markets. This is a fact that immigration critics rarely acknowledge and immigration reform must take into account.

But there is hope for a better future for some of these farm workers, and an opportunity for them to contribute to rural and overall economic development here in the states. ALBA is a farm incubator where farmworkers and aspiring farmers can grow their own crops on organic land in Monterey County, CA., and learn the skills they need to market those crops and, one day, start their own farms.

This is important for a sustainable, stable food system. We are losing family farms to development every day, farms are consolidating into larger operations further from urban centers, and the average age of farmers is increasing – just as consumers are beginning to see the value in buying locally produced foods .

ALBA farmers can not only provide consumers (and themselves) with more sources of locally grown, organic produce at reasonable prices, but an influx of new farm families may even help save the family farm.

But the ALBA program does much more than that. ALBA teaches farmers how to farm in a way that is better for the environment than conventional, petroleum-dependent farming. Situated on two parcels of organic land, with a total of 305 acres, ALBA provides economic opportunity while teaching ecological land management techniques, habitat restoration, and conservation.

And though many of the beginning farmers in the ALBA program do hail from Mexico – especially the rural states of Guanajuato, Guerrero, Jalisco, MichoacÃ¡n and Oaxaca – some of the graduates of the program have come from Argentina, Armenia, Iran, Chile, El Salvador, and Vietnam. The program welcomes all undercapitalized beginning farmers.

Over the past 20 plus years, ALBA has graduated over 600 farming families from the program. About 100 of those families have left the incubator and have leased or purchased their own farms.

If you shop at Bay Area and Northern California farmers’ markets, you are likely to encounter an ALBA farmer or two. I especially appreciate the ALBA farmers I see at my weekly market stops (Avalos Organic Farm and Catalan Family Farm) because the farmers and their families are on-site selling their own crops, providing a more direct consumer to producer connection, quality is high, and the prices are very reasonable.

ALBA also does advocacy work to help rework the farm bill in a way that will benefit both eaters and small farmers, and also works with state legislators to increase food stamp recipient’s access to fresh food from farmers’ markets.

“Our work has helped catalyze more discussion and action around small business education and development. It needs to be recognized as an option right alongside expanding good employment options. The economic activities of farmers from ALBA have generated and supported a tripling of farmers’ markets in the past five years, and many more people are now able to access truly local, organic foods,” said Gary Peterson, Deputy Director, ALBA

This is the latest installment in Vanessa Barrington’s weekly column, The Green Plate, on the environmental, social, and political issues related to what and how we eat.

Images: Courtesy of ALBA

The Mixed Grocery Bag That Is Walmart

Vanessa Barrington — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 21:30:25 +0000

Love it or hate it, you can’t deny that whatever the giant retailer, Walmart, does sends shock waves through their supply chain. Lately they’ve introduced some bold initiatives in greening their supply chain. Are the efforts real or are they marketing? Will they help the environment, consumers, workers and producers – or harm them? The answer is: All of the above.

Walmart has been busy developing a sustainability index for every product it sells. I could argue (and others have) that flimsy, cheap plastic consumer goods people don’t actually need are not sustainable by definition.

But what about food and household cleaners? Those are not recreational purchases.

And many people, in many parts of the country, need to shop at Walmart because, frankly, there are no other options or they simply can’t afford the local stores.

According to Change.org, opening Walmarts in areas known as “food deserts” is really just a band-aid that masks the underlying causes of poverty and inequality.

This is true and there’s no doubt it is a complicated issue. Similarly, many commenters pointed out in this article by Marc Gunther that the entire model of how Walmart builds and spreads across the landscape is flawed. Again, indisputably true.

But Walmart isn’t going anywhere, anytime soon. Is it possible to look at some of their initiatives in a positive light?

For example, the recent news that Walmart is partnering with the leading green cleaning product brand, Seventh Generation, was widely lauded for its potential to bring truly green products to a larger audience. But on the other hand, as this Treehugger piece asks, does the partnership simply lend undeserved credibility to the retailer’s green efforts?

And what of the retailer’s local food initiatives?

In the midst of a highly entertaining grocery smackdown in The Atlantic in which a bunch of foodies choose Walmart produce over Whole Food’s in some aspects of a blind tasting, there’s a little tease about Walmart’s Heritage Agriculture program. The program encourages farms within a day’s drive of one of the company’s warehouses to grow crops that would normally be trucked from far-away states.

The three-tiered strategy of the Heritage Agriculture program is to create a transparent supply chain of local and regional sources, support women and minority businesses, and reinvigorate historic growing areas for produce that is popular with the United States’ growing minority communities.

This all sounds great. On the surface, it could be a powerful way to re-regionalize the food system, keep farmers on their land, and increase the diversity of crops grown in different parts of the country. A regional, diverse food system is better for the environment than monocropping and more likely to result in increased accessibility to better quality food for consumers.

The problem is that Walmart doesn’t do anything without a compelling business reason. And often when a whale as large as Walmart moves an inch, it displaces everything around it. In Walmart’s case, the business reason is always to obtain products at the lowest price possible and pass that savings on to consumers. This could end up being a problem for the very farmers Walmart supports with the initiative. In 2006 farmers received just 19 cents of every dollar consumers plunked down for food. That’s a pretty small margin to work on, and with Walmart in the mix, it could get worse.

Walmart has a reputation for squeezing suppliers. Consider if Walmart, with its immense power, offers to buy a small, regional farmer’s entire harvest. The farmer, already squeezed by the system, may jump at the chance to sell all her output. If the farm no longer had sufficient supply to continue to sell to its local mom and pop and co-op stores (assuming any exist) then those stores would have to find other suppliers and try to compete with Walmart on price.

Competing with Wal-Mart on price is impossible. Those stores would likely go out of business, taking with them the only other outlets that small farmers have for their products, putting people out of work, and decreasing choices for community members. Once all other buyers are gone, Walmart could pretty much pay the farmer as little as it wants. In this way, we could end up with the control of our food system concentrated in the hands of one corporation, killing any chance we might have of rebuilding community based food systems that are more democratic in nature.

And it’s not just the farmers. Walmart squeezes entire communities economically. Once Walmart is one of the only employers in an area it can effectively keep wages down and unions out. When the farmers don’t make enough money to live on and neither do the employees of the only game in town, you can bet everyone is dependent on the always low prices that Walmart offers.

It’s true we need affordable, accessible, high quality food in all communities, but wouldn’t it be better to fix it from the ground up systemically instead of leaving it to one company?

Maybe Walmart’s grand plan to green and localize its supply chain will remove XX amount of carbon from the atmosphere. But some things can’t be quantified. Like the pleasure of talking to your neighbors and connecting with the people who grow your food. It just makes for stronger communities and relationships. This article makes the point that no matter how much local food Walmart buys, it can never replace the deeply human interactions that happen in a farmers’ market.

I would also add that it’s within these interactions that democratic change happens and, while we may cautiously applaud Walmart’s efforts for the great impact they might have, it’s not time to roll over yet. I think a more democratic food system is worth fighting for. As long as I have a choice, I will continue to shop for seasonal produce at my local farmers’ market.

This is the latest installment in Vanessa Barrington’s weekly column, The Green Plate, on the environmental, social, and political issues related to what and how we eat.

Image: Monochrome Flickr

It’s Not Enough to Vote with Your Fork

Vanessa Barrington — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 23:19:30 +0000

Chef Rocky Barnette is on the road with Food & Water Watch to educate eaters about corporate control of the food system, tell us what we can do about it, and clue us in as to why the Farm Bill matters.

First some facts about concentration in the food industry:

In 2007, the top three beef packers processed 67 percent of all cattle. This pushes down prices to small and mid-sized farmers, putting them out of business. The meat industry is now more concentrated than it was when Congress broke up the big monopolies a century ago.

The hog industry is genetically engineering enviro-pigs so that they’ll produce less phosphorus in their manure and factory farms will be able to dump more crap on the land without exceeding regulated phosphorus limits.

5,000 dairy farms disappeared between 1997 and 2007, leaving us with mega dairies housing up to 10,000 cows on gigantic feedlots, and putting family farmers out to pasture.

What are the net effects of such concentration in the food industry?

None of this happened by accident. It’s all the result of government policies enshrined in the Farm Bill. Our current Farm Bill is set to expire September 30, 2012. The writing of the new bill will begin in early 2011. We have less than a year to tell Congress that we, the eaters, get to decide what we are going to eat. And that’s why Food & Water Watch is taking it on the road.

The group is meeting with farmers, local activist groups, and elected officials across the Midwest, while connecting with consumers through cooking demos at farmers’ markets and other venues.

In Pittsburg, Rocky and team stopped off at a member owned co-op, East End Food Co-op then toured the Braddock Farm Youth Project and cooked a meal from the garden for 50 local children. Rocky blogged about it here.

Next up was Ohio where the team visited the Ohio State Fair to talk to fair-goers about concentration in agriculture. And then the team was off to Johnstown, Ohio to meet up with Farmer Dick Jensen of Flying J Farm. Dick raises cattle and vegetables, and produces maple syrup, as well as his own biodiesel to run his farm vehicles. Rocky’s update is here.

In Huron, Ohio the team met up with Slow Food Huron Valley and then hit up The Chef’s Garden to talk about its partnership with Veggie U, which helps teachers bring science and healthy eating into the classroom. They then visited the Culinary Vegetable Institute and Growing Hope, a training site for urban farming, where they met Ypsilanti Mayor Paul Schreiber. Blog post here.

In Chicago, the team did a cooking demo at the Evanston Farmers’ Market and at the Chicago French Market and met with activists at various venues in town. Read all about it here.

Here’s the full tour schedule in case Rocky and team are coming to your town this month:

Tuesday, 8/3 Pittsburg, PA

Wednesday, 8/4 Columbus, OH

Thursday, 8/5 Huron, OH

Friday, 8/6 Ann Arbor, MI

Saturday, 8/7 Chicago, IL

Sunday, 8/8 Chicago, IL

Monday, 8/9 Milwaukee, WI

Tuesday, 8/10 Madison, WI

Wednesday, 8/11 Des Moines, IA

Thursday, 8/12 Iowa City, IA

Friday, 8/13 Mendota, IL

So what can you do to help change the food system?

First of all, educate yourself about what activist groups like Food & Water watch are doing, write to your elected representatives, show up at food events, speaking tours, and panel discussions, and bring your friends and family. Get involved in spreading the word and letting elected officials know that we deserve a better food system.

“Seeking out sustainably produced food at the grocery store, shopping at farmers’ markets and even growing your own garden in your backyards will only get us so far,” said Food & Water Watch’s Assistant Director and lead food policy expert Patty Lovera. “We all have the right to voice our concerns about the injustices and lack of safety and real choice that permeates our broken food system. The easiest thing the average citizen can do to help change food policy is to add their voice to the growing chorus of activists holding policymakers accountable by signing up with an organization like Food & Water Watch.”

This is the latest installment in Vanessa Barrington’s weekly column, The Green Plate, on the environmental, social, and political issues related to what and how we eat.

Images: Food & Water Watch via Flickr

Organic, Please: Mountain Rose Herbs Tea

Heather Brubaker — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 19:18:53 +0000

On the subject of tea, I have become obsessed with loose leaf tea. Why mess around with tea bags? Loose leaf tea is better quality, for one. The key is setting yourself up with the right steeping options. But perhaps, more importantly, make sure the tea is organic. Think about it. Pesticide soaked tea leaves equals pesticide steeped tea. None of us care to drink DDT on a regular basis.

Happily, I’ve found Mountain Rose Herbs company. These Oregon folks just won a business ethics award and are highly compliant with sustainable, organic agriculture and pesticide free standards. The company is genuinely passionate about providing the best products and respecting our planet. This is good. Very good. Also, their tea is excellent. My current favorite is the Dao Ren Green Tea.

Their website is a little on the busy and earthy side, but don’t let it stop you. You can peruse their products on the site, download an online PDF catalog, or request a printed catalog. The tea is very reasonably priced. They also offer many other products, including bulk spices, jars, and other natural health supplies. Read up on the history of tea and the company’s green culture from beaucoup literature on recycled paper that comes along with their products.

Most of all, may you drink loads of tea, worry-free!

Is the Urban Farming Movement Here to Stay?

Vanessa Barrington — Thu, 20 May 2010 18:15:31 +0000

Urban farming has the potential to help us take charge of the foods we eat, green our cities, build community, and increase food security for urban residents.

Everyday, there’s articles about backyard chickens, bee keeping, or urban yard sharing. Clearly urban agriculture is at the top of the trend pile. But is it just a trend, or a part of a sustainable future?

Last week I attended a panel discussion in San Francisco at The Commonwealth Club (presented by INFORUM), about how today’s urban farming movement began and where it’s going. Attendees were treated to a variety of perspectives from four pitchfork-toting farmerpreneur leaders of the urban farming movement in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Panelists included Jason Mark, co-manager of Alemany Farm; editor-in-chief, Earth Island Journal, Novella Carpenter, author of the book Farm City about her farm Ghost Town Farm, Christopher Burley, founder, Hayes Valley Farm, and David Gavrich (aka The Goat Whisperer), founder of City Grazing. The panel was moderated by Sarah Rich, writer; editor; co-founder, The Foodprint Project; and co-author, Worldchanging: A User’s Guide for the 21st Century.

The panel started off with a discussion about the most recent “back to the land” movement and how it differed from today’s urban farming movement.

Back in the 60s and 70s young people migrated back to the countryside to make a go of farming. Novella Carpenter’s parents were part of that movement. But it didn’t last. People found that growing food is very hard and rural life can be extremely isolating. The motives of today’s generation of farmers are different, and more communitarian. They’re not trying to drop out. They’re trying to engage more fully with the world around them.

“We’re realizing that maybe there is a different way. We can stay in the cities and grow food where we live and it can serve as a model for sustainability, said Jason Mark. “There’s not enough room for all of us in Sonoma.”

“We’re all trying to find balance and bring the rural environment into the urban environment. We’re trying to find that niche that we live in. Everyone who plants a seed is sowing a bit of sustainability,” added Chris Burley.

Though the movement is young, things are changing rapidly. According to David Gavrich, the goat whisperer. When his business, City Grazing, put an ad in Craigslist for “goat herder, San Francisco,” they got 200 applications, and half of the applicants actually had goat experience. According to Gavrich, “people are yearning to get away from their desks”.

Urban farming does seem to be helping to revitalize neighborhoods and foster community. For example, Burley, of Hayes Valley Farm, who was featured here in a Q & A a couple of weeks back said that he was amazed to find that 50 people will consistently show up on a Thursday to shovel horse manure for four hours. Sunday work parties regularly attract 100 folks.

Jason Mark says, “community is what distinguishes this from the back to the land movement.” Alemany Farm is completely volunteer run and over the years has built up a core group of volunteers that are friends and together make up a vibrant community.

For Novella Carpenter, the community happened more by accident. Her farm begin as a personal project but has evolved into one in which neighbors are involved in various ways. The involvement started with people picking her produce without permission. Describing herself as “not a do-gooder” but saying that. “If my neighbors are hungry and I know how to grow food how can I not feed them?” she says, “everybody gives what they can.” This includes everything from the wagon proffered by the neighbor who likes her mustard greens to goat butchering lessons from the Yemeni liquor store owner.

What about bureaucratic hurdles to farming in urban areas?

They do exist but each panelist had different experiences. Gavrich has said he’s had no problems in enlightened San Francisco but recommends anticipating problems and getting everything in writing. He has a “goat clause” in his agreement with the railroad line he maintains stating that all landscape is done by natural means.

Mark echoes that San Francisco has been extremely supportive and that the mayor has laid out a food policy proposal that is sweeping and visionary. He does cite “getting the city staff to connect with the mayor’s policies” as a hurdle.

Burley said that the city came to his group to develop Hayes Valley Farm, so they have the full blessing and support from the authorities. He also said that a bottom- up approach to urban farming that utilizes people’s backyards has worked.

Most of the panelist agreed that policy changes that support urban farming are important because (though many of the non-profit farms and farms located in private backyards don’t run into problems) when an urban farm is commercialized, all it takes is one neighbor to complain about commercial activity in a residential area for a farmer to get cited.

And as Burley said, “We need to advocate for farms in residential areas because 60 percent of land is in people’s yards.”

Can urban farming help us rebuild our food systems and increase food security?

Urban farming can certainly increase access to fresh fruits and vegetables to city dwellers but we need to look at how the food is distributed and find creative ways to get the food to the people who most need it. The most sustainable way of all to provide food is to teach people how to grow their own.

For example, Alemany Farm is right next to public housing. The farm runs youth programs and provides plots to nearby residents where they can grow their own food. The farm once held a farmers market where nearby residents could purchase produce on a sliding scale. The farm is no longer allowed to sell the food, which means they have to give it away. Yet all the panelists agree that a charity model is too top-down and not sustainable.

Things are shifting as policy makers realize that urban farming can be both a green solution to city ills and perhaps even a green jobs solution. Novella Carpenter is working on a project in San Lorenzo that is part of the city’s green job training program and is funded by the sheriff’s department.

All panelists agreed that the movement needs to network, share information and resources and build the system from the ground up.

According to Chris Burley, an urban agriculture alliance is forming. And indeed for urban agriculture to ever become more than isolated individuals working on scattered city plots, we need concerted organization efforts that can both demand and work with government backing.

Panelists were asked what role education plays in the movement

Chris Burley says it’s crucial. In fact Hayes Valley Farm’s mission is not even so much to produce food, but to serve as an urban agriculture resource that provides education and advocates behavioral changes. “We can’t change what we don’t know. We need to become more aware of our impact. Food is the gateway drug to a more sustainable lifestyle. Through learning about food, little by little, we’ll become more connected and thrive as a community,” said Burley.

Novella and her co-worker/owners run an urban farming store at Biofuel Oasis in Berkeley. All day they educate people on beekeeping, chicken coops and more. They teach classes on bee and goat keeping, preserving, and other topics as well. With a trend like urban farming, it is necessary to make sure people know what they are getting into or the movement will not develop in a sustainable way.

I wonder if the Internet existed during the 60s and 70s, giving people access to information and ready support from fellow travelers, if the back-to-the-land movement might have survived.

In conclusion: here are the panelist’s best 60-second ideas to change the world.

David Gavrich – “Get leadership and political people to think holistically. Think about the impact beyond what we see. Look at externalities. If we do that, it will be clear that we’ll be better off farming in our communities.”

Chris Burley – “Crop mob. Get together and transform a backyard. Have a potluck.”

Novella Carpenter – “Every city should have a demo farm. It could be a cool tourist thing with a person managing it and showing people how to raise chickens and bees and how to can and process vegetables. There should be an “˜office of urban farming.’”

Jason Mark – “Find a little bit of land and a little water, find a friend and find someone to help. Connect with you neighbors doing the same thing. Personal actions alone don’t do it. Progress happens collectively.”

This is the latest installment in Vanessa Barrington’s weekly column, The Green Plate, on the environmental, social, and political issues related to what and how we eat.

Image: Jessica Reeder

In the Hot Seat: Chris Mann

Tonic — Wed, 12 May 2010 17:36:19 +0000

GuayakÃ Yerba Mate could be your cup of tea.

In 1996, five men fresh out of college believed that they could help to re-forest the South American rainforest and positively effect the indigenous people by drinking tea. Crazy? Maybe not. Fourteen years later, GuayakÃ Yerba Mate has a core team of 28 flip-flop wearing, life-loving, idealists that are making a difference one sip at a time. Guayaki grows its products sustainably within the South America’s Atlantic rainforest and currently sustains and/or restores nearly 20,000 acres of rainforest, 34 indigenous families and over 300 bird and mammal species. What was nothing more than a crazy idea back in 1996 is now a full-blown reality.

Chris Mann is one of the five seeding founders and has been dubbed the “Chairman of the Gourd” of GuayakÃ Yerba Mate. Chris earned a BA in Economics from Harvard University, but quickly realized that economists often overlooked sustaining the environment and protecting people. Through his experience with GuayakÃ, and previously with Natural Flavors, a 100 percent organic, vegan restaurant that employed 25 people and 60 local farmers, Chris is finding that by recognizing common purpose, seemingly disparate groups can integrate social justice, environmental restoration and economic success.

Chris takes a break from sippin’ the good stuff to sit In The Hot Seat for Tonic:

What’s your mantra?

A motto I live by is “May you live all the days of your life,” a quote from Jonathan Swift. It reminds me that life truly is a gift. When I live in that reality, I feel alive, inspired and compelled to contribute my energy towards creating a beneficial presence. Getting sidetracked by fear drives complacency and withdrawal. It happens to us all. For me it’s a matter of how quickly can I recognize that I am stuck and get past it. If we are feeling low, it is very difficult to contribute to something bigger than ourselves, but when we truly feel alive that is all we want to do!

How are your business goals tied to your mission?

GuayakÃ’s mission in itself a business goal – to sustain and restore 200,000 acres of South American Atlantic rainforest and provide 1,000 living wage jobs. This mission is funded by the sustainable harvest of yerba mate beneath the South American Atlantic rainforest canopy. In order to accomplish our mission, we will need sales of approximately $125 million. The amount of forest we restore and living-wage jobs we create are directly proportional to the amount of shade-grown organic yerba mate we sell. That is the essence of Market-Driven Restoration.

What is the CSR program implemented in your company that you are most proud of?

Our entire business model is a CSR program. We call our model Market-Driven Restoration, whereby we internalize the environmental and social costs of our products. This ‘true cost’ enables our customers to vote with their dollars. In turn, we invest in growers who are committed to high quality, integrity and restoration. By purchasing GuayakÃ’s organic and fair trade certified yerba mate, our customers become a driving force for rainforest restoration and the creation of living wage jobs.

This model of Market-Driven Restoration acknowledges that we are all in this together and we must all work and play together in order to create solutions. We cannot separate east and west, north and south and we cannot separate social justice and cultural diversity from ecological restoration. Specifically, we pay two to three times the market price for our yerba mate, and in turn, the growers we work with adopt a work plan for improving the diversity of their rainforest and engage in life-affirming relationships with the people they directly work with-whether they are family members, cooperative members or migrant harvesters.

One way that we have measured the success of this program is by conducting a life-cycle study on our loose-leaf yerba mate products. This study demonstrated that the amount of carbon sequestered by the rainforests in which it grows is twice the amount of carbon that is emitted through the harvesting, processing, packaging and transportation. In other words, Guayaki Yerba Mate was shown to be carbon-subtracting – not just carbon-neutral, but carbon-subtracting. The subtraction does not result from offsetting, but is embedded in the entire Market-Driven Restoration business model. To top it off, the packaging of this product is all biodegradable and home compostable which means that it is one of the most sustainable consumer products available on the market. This is incredibly exciting because it demonstrates that it can be done and we are all learning that it must be done.

What area of CSR do you still think your company can improve in and what are the steps you will take to make that change?

The main area for us to improve in is in our reporting. We are doing amazing work on many fronts, but we do not have a consistent formal reporting program. As a result, our efforts are not as coordinated as they could be and not everyone is aware of the successes we have had and the challenges we face. The reporting is vitally important because it serves as a platform for sharing the information with our stakeholders and engaging in more direct dialogues around the issues so we can more effectively develop and implement best practices at Guayaki and inspire others to implement the same. Ultimately, we face tremendous challenges in implementing the massive environmental and social justice programs that we all need to engage in and clear communication, transparency and reporting are crucial to expanding these programs quickly and deeply.

Where do you see your company in 5 years?

In ten years we will have sustained and restored at least 200,000 acres of rainforest and provided at least 1,000 living-wage jobs. In 5 years we will be well on our way to accomplishing these goals. What will this look like? In the marketplace, our products will be distributed almost everywhere that beverages are sold and Guayaki will be recognized as a leader in creating healthy products that inspire people to vote with their dollars for products and services that sustain and restore degraded ecosystems and promote social justice. We plan to stay on the cutting edge of restorative business development and believe that five years from now, the work that we are doing now will be commonplace in all businesses. So we envision a constant cycle of innovation and product improvement. Can we help change the conversation from minimizing the bad to maximizing the good?

Read more Dollars & Sense.

Editor’s note: Article by Nadia Hosni. Originally published by our friends at Tonic.com. Tonic is a digital media company and news source dedicated to promoting the good that happens each day around the world. Tonic tells the stories of people and organizations who are working to make a difference, by inspiring good in themselves and others. Be sure to visit them and say hi, and follow Tonic on Twitter, too!

Image: juanpol