ExclusiveBright Young Things launches a sustainable capsule collection at Urban Outfitters.

The Bright Young Things first season collection is debuting at Urban Outfitters with a four-piece capsule collection. The versatile collection can be worn in multiple ways and includes: The Converter Pant, The Everything Halter, The Wrap Skirt-Dress, and The Coat-Dress. Designer Eliza Starbuck says the collection was inspired by the idea of updating American classics in an effort to offer basics that are multifunctional.

“If I were to pinpoint the icons that are behind the style inspiration I’d say they’re a mix of Laurence of Arabia, Katherine Hepburn, and Carmen Miranda, although I certainly hope they don’t come off that way,” says Starbuck. “I wanted them to be for today’s versions of these characters.”

The New York-based line debuted at The GreenShows in September at the 2010 New York Fashion Week with just one little black dress. The dress itself has encouraged thrifty, creative dressers everywhere to embrace the fact that less is more and no better was that celebrated than through Starbuck’s creation of the first LBD for Sheena Matheiken’s The Uniform Project.

As for the Urban Outfitter collection, expect to see a pant with fun twists like a basic trouser with side entry that allows the wearer to wear it at three different levels on the waist (high-waisted, a slouchy-cuffed slack, or a drop crotch harem style pant), and an Everything Halter which was designed to be twisted and wrapped into different looks or flipped upside down and worn as a sexy skirt or beach cover up.

Producing the line in Manhattan’s Chinatown allowed Starbuck to closely monitor production and make adjustments to the production if necessary.

“It was really cool to get to know the factory workers,” says Starbuck. “There were days when I was in there working side by side with them.”

When asked if she thinks more women are getting creative with their clothes, Starbuck says it really depends on the individual.

“I know some amazingly creative dressers, women who inspire me to get dressed in the morning,” says Starbuck. “Then there are so many women who don’t have the confidence to stand out and assert their own sense of style, who tend to imitate the style they see on celebrities or that they see on TV or in magazines.”

There’s also the matter of personal priorities.

“Of course there are those women out there who really can’t or don’t care about fashion and have other things they focus on,” says Starbuck. “I try to design clothes that would work for any of these types, but I think the women who like to experiment will have the most fun with it.”

The Bright Young Things capsule collection can be seen now at Urban Outfitters, with pieces priced from $89-$240. Materials include tencel and hemp blends.

Getting acquainted with bamboo’s true environmental impact.

When sustainable fashion first burst onto the scene, we were introduced to a number of “eco-friendly” fabrics, such as organic cotton, tencel, hemp and bamboo. Each carried sustainable properties, whether that meant being free of pesticides or fertilizers, produced in a closed-loop system, or made from durable and renewable materials.

At first, bamboo fabric made a lot of sense. Bamboo is one of the fastest growing plants on earth, with one species recorded growing three feet in a single day. Bamboo does not use or rely on chemicals, fertilizers or insecticides to grow. Nor does it require as much water as alternatives such as cotton, where one t-shirt requires 400 gallons of water to produce from start to finish.

In comparison to cotton, bamboo is known to improve watersheds, purify air quality, and remove toxins from contaminated soil, all with less water consumption and no harmful environmental impact. Bamboo is often planted to prevent soil erosion, it can absorb up to 12 tons of carbon dioxide per hectare and it produces 30% more oxygen than any hardwood forest of similar size. It can also be selectively harvested annually, and it naturally regenerates without replanting.

Bamboo seemed like a miracle fiber – and in a sense, it is. It’s turning it into fabric that’s the more complicated issue.

Bamboo fabric can be made in one of two ways – chemically or mechanically. The chemical process has been met with much resistance from sustainable fashion experts because this process requires toxic chemicals. These chemicals, sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, change the genetic structure of natural bamboo, turning it into rayon. But the disposal of these chemicals can lead to soil and water contamination.

The bigger issue is how bamboo is being marketed and sold – both to the fashion industry and the consumer. Both groups are drawn to its (questionable) claims of biodegradability, its softness, and let’s face it, its price point. Yet without knowing the facts about how that fabric was processed, or understanding its real positive attributes, how can one really be sure of the impact? Some marketers will rely on the fact that we immediately think it’s good because it comes from a plant that carries many good properties. They stick a panda bear or bamboo shoots on the label, and that seems to be enough to convince everyone of its sustainability.

You may be familiar with the Lyocell process, more commonly known as Tencel – a process that also requires various chemicals. However, Tencel is made in a closed-loop system that allows for the chemical effluent to be treated and recycled, thus making it a more sustainable option than rayon. Those of us in the sustainable fashion business have been waiting years for the bamboo industry to adopt this style of processing.

A Canadian brand, Miik, is challenging the status quo by using bamboo processed in a closed-loop system. In addition to tracking the bamboo used from the source, Miik has also earned a bevvy of certifications including USDA organic, Oeko-Tex Standard 100, and OCIA (Organic Crops Improvement Association). Even better is their processing method.

Miik

According to Bamboo Tex (the company that develops Miik’s bamboo yarn ), the bamboo is processed in a hermetic container where 100% of the chemicals used are trapped and contained rather than being released into their factory, environment or atmosphere. Miik also claims that each step of the process is supervised for adherence to company policy, brand commitment and China’s environmental ethical standards.

Within one week, I discovered yet another great example in Five Bamboo, which I recommend you check out for a more comprehensive explanation of the process (including diagrams).

Five Bamboo

Mechanically processed bamboo is also considered sustainable. Rather than extracting fiber, as in the case with regenerated cellulose, mechanical processing involves the separation and extraction of fibers directly from the bamboo shoots. However, it is a multi-step process that is more costly, and therefore is not commonly practiced.

The net situation is that bamboo fabric still poses some difficult issues for both the ethical fashion designer and the consumer. The use of bamboo plants in the textile industry is still relatively new, and too few companies are using the more sustainably processed fibers, although that is changing.

Regardless of how it is processed, some experts believe it is more important to be able to make an informed decision about environmental impact before ruling any fabric out. According to sustainability expert Lorraine Smith, we should all be taking an impact approach, rather than a prescriptive one. She believes it is more important for designers to be measuring, managing and demonstrating impact. Without data, aren’t we all just guessing?

Smith also feels that the real problem lies in making false claims or claims that don’t make any sense – whether it is about bamboo, cotton or any other fabric. “If they have certification to demonstrate that they are making a difference along the way,” says Smith, “Then it isn’t greenwash. It’s not about the fiber, it’s about the whole product life cycle.”

For more on Smith’s position on bamboo, read her article “To Be or Not To Be Biodegradable.”

Main image: odonoata98

The fashion industry is facing many challenges, but one of the most pressing issues is water usage.  The textile industry is the third largest consumer and polluter of the world’s water. Water consumption is a huge problem for growing fibers such as the ever-thirsty cotton plant, with nearly 400 gallons of water required to produce just one cotton t-shirt.

Waste water is conceivably an even bigger issue than consumption. Toxic chemicals produced from dyeing textiles, along with other chemicals such as those used to produce synthetics, are contributing to a major crisis in pollution of fresh water, affecting the health of a number of species, including humans.  (Read The Consequences of Chemicals, Future Fashion White Papers).

Heavy metals such as chromium and cadmium, which are used to make bright and vibrant dyes, pose a threat wherever they appear in a product lifestyle, particularly the use of the dye in dye wastewater. Air Dye is a revolutionary technology that dyes textiles without using any water. Not only are they reducing the overall amount of water required to produce a garment, but this technology also prevents toxic chemicals from entering our ecosystems.

Some manufacturers work in closed-loop production, which means that the waste or effluent produced is treated and re-used, reducing the amount of toxic waste normally disposed of into the ecosystem.  The company Lenzing is a great example, with their fabrics modal and  tencel, made from a wood pulp much like bamboo (which has yet to be manufactured in a closed-loop environment).

But so much attention has been given to the energy, chemicals and water that go into making a garment that what many people don’t realize is the majority of the environmental damage comes once a garment has been purchased. The energy and water required to wash a garment has far more devastating effects than the growing of the raw materials and the manufacturing of the textiles. Surprising? Not really when you consider that the average piece of clothing lasts three years, and is laundered hundreds of times in its lifetime.

The average North American household washes 400 loads of laundry per year. This accumulated number of washes requires 13,500 gallons of water to complete, and is equivalent to how much water it takes to fill a standard above-ground pool!

The first steps towards recovering from our water addiction begin with wearing our clothes several times before washing. But once we get to a full laundry basket that is truly in need of a wash, there are a few basic tips to help you get started on eco-friendly and budget-smart laundering habits.

1) Wash your clothes in cold water: An interesting fact – using only hot water for washing your clothes uses more electricity in a year than leaving the refrigerator door open 24 hours a day for an entire year. Cold water is the best alternative, as it not only reduces fabric shrinkage, but it allows colors to remain vibrant. So your clothes will fit and last longer AND you’ll reduce your carbon emissions by 500 pounds a year!

2) Wash full loads: Washing machines are most efficient when operating at capacity. Take advantage of your washing machine’s full potential and load it up. Your budget will thank you for it.

3) Use the right amount and type of detergent: When doing a load of laundry do you use the cap size as an indicator of the amount of detergent you should use? If so, odds are you are using way too much laundry detergent than what is actually needed. The amount you use should reflect the guiding lines on the inside of the cap. Here’s a great article on Treehugger with more information.

Another helpful hint is to look for phosphate-free detergents. Phosphates are the leading chemical agent in algal blooms and a major cause of aquatic ecosystem depletion. Also, instead of fabric softeners, try using white vinegar in the rinse cycle. The acid vinegar will neutralize the basic detergents and as a result will help keep your clothes looking clean.

4) Consider an Energy-Star rated washer: Gone are the days of scrubbing our laundry by hand down at the lake. If you’re in the market to replace your washing machine, consider a more cost effective one. An Energy-Star or front-loading washing machine can save thousands of liters of water a year and be 30 – 85% more energy efficient.

Image above from Costello Tagilapietra’s 2009 show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week featuring Air Dye technology.

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Over the past few years we have witnessed the exponential growth of sustainable fabrics. And we are all aware that this is a movement and not a trend. Organic cotton, hemp, tencel, recycled polyester and organic wool are gaining popularity, evidenced on the international runways and in fashion media. By now most of us are familiar with the advantages of sustainable fabrics that includes fewer toxic chemicals, reducing the amount of textiles dumped into our landfills, and producing in a closed loop environment.

But consumers are still largely dependent on non-sustainable fabrics like Polyester, Lycra, Spandex and Gortex to name a few. These fabrics hold properties that we have grown to view as necessities, like stretch, durability and price. So how do we discover a sustainable alternative?

CRAiLAR® Organic Fibers is touted to be the foundation of the first truly sustainable yarn in the apparel industry, and poised to become the revolutionary next step in sustainable fibers.

CRAiLAR is developed by Naturally Advanced Technologies (NAT), in collaboration with the National Research Council of Canada. It is an ingredient, much like Lycra or Gortex, except that it is completely sustainable. NAT’s hope is that apparel companies who currently use common blends like cotton/lycra, will shift to using a cotton/CRAiLAR blend. If blended with other sustainable fabrics, this new technology could have a significant impact on the apparel and textiles market as a whole.

The fibers are made from hemp stalk, which is not commonly used in apparel because of its rough texture and stiffness. The all-natural CRAiLAR process transforms the rough hemp stalk into a velvety-soft, yet strong and durable, textile fiber. The enzymes used in the process are all natural and GMO free, and the result is a fabric that is soft and supple like cotton, and has the same performance traits, so it is cool and comfortable to wear year-round. NAT claims that it is even better than cotton because it reduces shrinkage and has more tensile strength than cotton. It looks like cotton, dyes like cotton, fits the same and washes the same.

Hemp is known to be one of the most sustainable, renewable, and environmentally friendly crops that requires no irrigation, chemical fertilizers and pesticides. It can grow to 14-feet in just a few months, producing multiple yields within one year. While many plants deplete the surrounding soil of vital nutrients, hemp is beneficial to soil, and actually improves its condition. Industrial hemp absorbs carbon dioxide – the most prominent greenhouse gas in the Earth’s atmosphere – at five times the rate of the same acreage of forest.

The problem that hemp faces is that it cannot be grown in certain countries, including the United States where it is illegal. While more hemp is exported to the U.S than to any other country, the United States Government does not consistently distinguish between marijuana and the non-psychoactive Cannabis used for industrial and commercial purposes.  Some states have defied Federal law and made the cultivation of industrial hemp legal. These states – North Dakota, Hawaii, Kentucky, Maine, Maryland, Montana, West Virginia, and Vermont – have not yet begun to grow hemp because of resistance from the federal Drug Enforcement Administration.

CRAiLAR Organic Fibers are sourced mainly from Canada as well as a few other countries in Europe where its growth is not illegal.

CRAiLAR is currently undergoing approval for third party GOTS certification, however NAT does claim that the entire life cycle can be certified organic, making it eco-friendly from beginning to end.

It is too early to know what the cost implications of CRAiLAR are at this stage, but recent trials sponsored by Hanesbrands Inc. reveal that blending it with cotton significantly reduces manufacturing costs by reducing shrinkage and improving dye uptake. The resulting savings could bring the final cost closer to that of regular cotton, as opposed to the premium paid for organic cotton (which in some cases is as much as 60 percent higher).

NAT’s intent is to make CRAiLAR Organic Fibers a household brand name. They’ve already teamed up with Patrick Yarns, a world leader in the manufacturing of high-performance industrial yarns, who has successfully blended CRAiLAR with a number of natural and synthetic fibers.

I am impressed with this new technology, and I love the fact that it is derived from hemp. However, it really comes down to what CRAiLAR is blended with because that will determine the overall sustainability of the garment. If it is blended with conventional fabrics, then it really is only a slight improvement. And then there is that argument that any change is good change. However, if blended with organic cotton, tencel and other sustainable or certified organic fabrics, then the final product definitely meets my standards and gets a full thumbs up.

Images: CRAiLAR Organic Fibers

In your closet is the black section, the gray section, the formal section and then the “whatever section,” filled with neutrals and maybe a jewel tone here and there.

Hmm, do you think it might be time to ask yourself why there isn’t a fun section in your closet? An area that delights you when contemplating wearing what’s in there?

I have one and have noticed over the past two years that it’s being filled with Feral Childe. I’m not kidding, it actually makes me feel happy to wear their clothing. And this dress above? Well, that baby is mine as soon as it hits the stores at the end of summer. A dress made with a Lite Brite print? Are you kidding me?!

Feral Childe is the bi-coastal collaboration of Moriah Carlson (Brooklyn, NY) and Alice Wu (Oakland, CA) who both come from a fine arts background. Seasonally, the two lock themselves away and focus on the job at hand: To create a thoughtful (fun, colorful) women’s line that’s completely wearable in many settings.

Each season, the design process begins with the duo’s collaborative drawing sessions where the drawings then become become textile prints, and elements are incorporated into construction details such as shaped facings and hems, as well as the buttons and accessories. Feral Childe then ties in fabrics like organic cotton and wool, tencel, soy, hemp blends, and silk, as well as mill-ends, deadstock and overstock treasures.

The collection is proudly produced in New York’s Garment District which will be in full force representation at EcoSalon Shops! on June 4th (as well as both designers).

And for the record, just meeting the designers and seeing how they put their clothes together, will make you smile.

It might be gray and raining outside, but a few days into 2010 and I’m already looking forward to spring designs. This might be because as far as fashion goes, more and more designers and big names in the industry are opting for sustainable materials. Today’s spotlight is on fashion-giant H&M, which this week announced the spring Garden Collection.

They tell me it’s all about floral patterns this spring, and fortunately, looking fresh and fun will also be eco-friendly. All of the garments in the new line have been made using sustainable materials or textile waste.

On its list of sustainable materials, H&M has incorporated organic cotton, organic linen, recycled polyester and tencel, the renewable fiber that’s quickly making its way into eco-designers’ repertoires.

H&M isn’t new to sustainable design, and they’re well aware of conventional cotton’s impact on the environment. The company started using organic cotton back in 2004, and in the last three years, they’ve increased the amount of organic cotton they use from 30 to 3,000 tons.

As an international fashion company, H&M is a key player in the industry, and increasing demand for organic cotton in turn helps organic cotton farmers. The company is also committed to ensuring that more farmers switch to organic, by supporting transitional cotton growing; converting from conventional to organic cotton production is a process that usually takes three years and working with farmers that are in that process helps keep the industry growing.

Tiered T-shirt Dress by Dahl

One of my very favorite designers, Alison Kelly of Project Runway fame, is finally coming over to the green side where eco-designers dwell.

Look for a small capsule collection she and her soul mate, Dane Risch, are putting together for both men and women.

(For the record: cutest couple going!)

The dress, made from 100% Tencel, a soft and buttery fiber made from wood pulp cellulose, is pure comfort and is so sweet.

Alison says: “The colors are putty, cafe au lait and black. I use these color names to conjure up the proper tones, seeing that the computer monitor can sometimes manipulate color. This top is available in all of my size offerings. It hits about mid-thigh so it can also be worn as a dress.”

Oh Alison, you had me at putty.

Leave a comment below to win and for official rules, click here.

New eco-fabrics are constantly being developed all over the world.

One day, what we think is so forward now (organic cotton, bamboo and tencel) will be as normal to us as breakfast cereal.

Like Optimer Brand’s 2008 launch of Dri-release E.C.O. [Environmentally Correct Origins] which uses recycled polyester and organic cotton.
According to a recent Ecotextile News press release, “New Dri-release E.C.O. 2nd Nature will combine post-consumer recycled polyester with post-industrial recycled cotton made from garment manufacturing clip waste, yielding a product made from 100% recycled materials.”

To produce the new fabric, Optimer has teamed up with Ferre-Hickory, LLC, a joint venture between Hilaturas Ferre of Spain and North Carolina Hickory Throwing Company. The Ferre-Hickory duo will produce the yarn, incorporating 2nd Nature 100% recycled cotton which is said to significantly reduce the amount of waste in landfills, as well as the water, pesticides, dyes and electricity used to produce and process cotton. Of course, it’s all free of harmful chemicals.

As I said the other day to an eco-fashion friend, “Not buying eco-clothing is similar to me eating a plate full of high fructose corn syrup. Why would I even consider it at this point?”

Feral Childe is the bi-coastal collaboration of designers Alice Wu and Moriah Carlson (respectively of Oakland, California and New York City). Based in Brooklyn with the collection produced in New York City, Feral Childe is a fresh take on the symbiosis of comfortable and forward-thinking styling mixed with almost poetic graphics and lots of color.

Their spring 09′ Collection, called Yosemite, is inspired by the natural world there: from the 3,000 foot, towering El Capitan in the heart of the park to crackling campfires and Alice’s first visit to Yosemite after moving to the Bay Area in 2006.

Easy-to-wear shapes are patterned out of organic cotton chambray, hemp cotton, tencel and silk modal jersey while oversized textile prints are designed by Feral Childe and hand-printed in Brooklyn. Each step of production is done locally with the dye house, printers and the cutting and sewing done in the historic Garment District in Manhattan.

The designers claim that their collections are in line with the philosophy of making do with what is at hand, and true to the label’s name – “Feral,” meaning wild and untamed, and embodying the spirit of survival in the big city; and “Childe” for the playful, narrative references that make the theme for each collection a story or a place.

I just love the fact I can wear a collection named after a place out west.

We show off a lot of ecoSkin fashion around EcoSalon because well, we like their style. And now they’ve captured the latest fashion forward off-the-shoulder trend with the Mercury Top.

Somehow ecoSkin has found a flattering way to recreate this look from the flamboyant days of Flashdance. Frankly, I’m shocked. But even I might consider wearing this easy-going and slightly sexy piece made of bamboo and tencel. It looks comfortable and would be perfectly paired with skinny jeans or a slim denim skirt. Available in sizes x-small to large for $139 (black only), find it at Green with Glamour. You can see more of ecoSkin here.

Another shoulder baring favorite is this top from nixxi. It has an elastic hem for a snug fit at the hip, but it’s the asymmetrical neckline with a d-ring detail that says simple and sassy. Made of soy, organic cotton and a tiny bit of stretch, the nixxi Off-the-Shoulder Top is available in four fall colors in sizes x-small to large. Find it at greenloop for $90 .