Cashmere has long been associated with luxury, but that’s not the case anymore with affordably priced cashmere currently saturating markets. While you might consider this a gift, mid-priced chain stores like Banana Republic and Target (who are buying the fiber) are part of a larger sock in the gut to the Mongolese people and the place they call home.

In addition to consumer’s demand for cashmere, the biggest culprit of the Mongolian countryside desertification are the goats themselves – eating roughly 400 square miles of grass a year (including the grass roots).

Ecotextile News reports that this over grazing of the high plains goats, in some instances has resulted in a “desertification of the land,” from nomadic herders looking to make a buck.

“The ever increasing demand in the west for cheap cashmere has encouraged such growth in the goat population so that there are real fears over the ecological balance of the region,” says Ecotextile News.

In the same article, China’s Ministry of Nature and Environment estimated that “grassland is thinning out across 75 percent of this vast country, two thirds the size of Western Europe, while 7 percent is already desert.”

With the Cashmere World Trade Fair taking place November 23-25, a Cashmere Sustainability Conference will encourage attendees on industry and environmental threats – from the fiber to the overgrazing, scouring and dyeing.

Image: Left-Hand

The post Move Over Steinbeck: Inner Mongolia Becomes a Modern Day Dust Bowl appeared first on EcoSalon.

You read about, link to and send out tweets talking about a plethora of sites filled with either great content or stunning clothing, and it can be hard to keep track.

I have my own problems keeping up, so maybe I’m doing this for my own good. Regardless, here’s a top 20 round-up of what I consider the best of the best (and most interesting) sites when it comes to shopping as well as learning about eco-designers, trends and news.

(Is it shameless to put EcoSalon and my new eco-boutique Shift in here? Shh…)

Blog Love

Founded and carefully curated by Abigail Doan, Ecco Eco is undoubtedly one of my favorite blogs to peruse as of late for how refreshing as well as interesting the content is: Fiber meets fashion meets art meets couture meets environment? Love it.

Doan is also a writer for other fashion blogs, an editor and an environmental artist residing in NYC and Europe.

She says of her art: “My eco-textile and art farming projects are a means to create sustainable solutions and key visual links to the global challenges we collectively face.”

Ecouterre’s mission? “To follow the evolution of the apparel industry toward a more environmentally sound future, as well as facilitate a conversation about why sustainable fashion matters.”

I just love it when they’re able to shock me with what can be solar or wind-powered in regards to clothing and accessories!

Through a team consisting of the likes of founder Jill Fehrenbacher (also founder of Inhabitat) and Managing Editor Jasmin Malik Chua, we’re able to discover designers taking fashion further than we ever thought it could go.

Run by founder/writer Kate Black,  Magnifeco’s daily eco-fashion and style blog features products that are fair-trade, recycled, reusable, sustainable, organic, and/or vegan.

Through her “Boutique of the Week,” I’ve found online shopping meccas I never knew of.

In writing this I just realized that when you click on any of her blog’s featured photos, you get taken directly to the spot where you can buy them. Nice Kate!

I almost feel like it’s unnecessary to write anything about Treehugger because you all probably follow them. They’re one of the most solid sources for eco-fashion trends, news and upcoming designers.

Why I will write about them is because their prolific writer Emma Grady is one of the hardest working women I’ve come across – writing almost every article you read on the site. While there are a few other writers, Emma single-handedly walks us down catwalks, and shoulders us at events where all the right people are gathering to make some noise.

And we like her for that.

One of the coolest ideas that came around last year to bring an awareness to how many clothes we have and how little we need was from designer Eliza Starbuck designer of Bright Young Things.

Starbuck designed her LBD inspired by how to make a dress “universally wearable yet individually specific,” not to mention sustainable and fashionable. Then she paired-up with Sheena Matheiken of The Uniform Project and women taking on their wardrobes in the form of wear-a-thon’s ensued. Her site chronicles a few women currently participating in their own – utilizing her (Starbuck’s) very own LBD for sale on her site.

“I’ve seen so many women with closets full of clothes who say, “˜I haven’t got a thing to wear.’ I’m giving them one dress that they can wear forwards, backwards, open, again and again, with anything they like.”

Eco-Chick

Eco-Chick Founder and Editor Starre Vartan is who I consider the current go-to green girl.

Not only does she run this blog full of current eco-fashion news, tips and interviews, Starre is the author of The Eco-Chick Guide To Life and can be found editing and guest writing on many popular green blogs. She’s also a great connector and connected to her natural environment which I think helps her to write from an honest place.

Starre Vartan for president.

With a team of writers that spread across four continents, EFW (Eco Fashion World) offers all the latest eco-fashion news and reviews, designer Q&A’s, store profiles, launch updates, and interviews with their “favorite ethical divas.”

I peruse their “comprehensive eco fashion finder” for brands or shops and resources around the globe to save myself time sometimes.

I love designer Tara St. James’ blog because it satisfies many things I need.

1. It’s written from the perspective of a designer, so I get to see different aspects of what designers go through from pattern making to dyeing.

2. I get to see what’s coming up next from a woman I consider pretty damn forward in terms of fashion.

3. I get to shop if I want her limited run pieces.

4. She’s a great writer and keeps me interested.

I don’t need to say any more.

Great Eagan’s FASHIONmeGREEN is a sustainable fashion awareness project and style site featuring eco-fashion makeovers with “style influencers.” Many who thought before Greta’s greening, eco was pretty sucko.

You can check out the FMG Daily for a current feed on what is hot, peruse her “Projects,” where she travels to the fashion capitals of the world to select a fashion influencers, and catch the behind the scenes footage in her webisodes.

Label Gazer’s goal is “to shine a spotlight on the many wonderful designers exploring various areas of socially responsible, ethical and eco-friendly fashion.”

Peruse the site’s designer database comprised of the top designers in the sustainable design field, find great deals at hot sites. And when you see some really forward-fashion-featured, then click on their link to it and voila, you’re instantly at a site ready to buy it.

Very carefully curated and delicious to peruse.

Go-To Industry Resources

Ecotextile News should be at the top of your reading everyday.

This environmental magazine for the global textile and clothing supply chain is published 10 times per year as a magazine, delivered direct to your door, and is a great blog providing expert analysis, in-depth commentary and offers the latest news on ethical fashion.

As a writer I love it because it keeps me up-to-date on lots of interesting issues.

Think you know a few things about organic cotton? Well, you might want to check out this site to see just how much and then keep learning.

Created to be a resource for industry and consumers alike who have an interest in the fiber, this site has ongoing information about organic cotton farmers, farming, designers implementing organic cotton, super-brands and interesting events.

Bookmark this site for sure.

The Ethical Fashion Forum is a non-profit network focusing upon social and environmental sustainability in the fashion industry.

Their mission? “To support and promote sustainable practices, facilitate collaboration, raise awareness and provide the tools and resources needed to reduce poverty, reduce environmental damage and raise standards in the fashion industry.”

Founded by both designers and businesses, this is great tool to help keep your finger on the pulse of industry discussions.

A newcomer to the internet but run by seasoned professionals like Summer Rayne Oakes, Benita Singh and Adam Schwartz, Source4Style is the first online marketplace created for designers and suppliers to search and source the world’s leading sustainable textiles.

You have to sign up to utilize the whole site but there’s a blog at the site where you can keep up to date on a few issues Source4Style is part of.

To even be able to participate on the Source4Style.com platform, the team gives potential suppliers a Sustainability Questionnaire and Fabric Listing, both of which are required before joining the site. This is to ensure the materials they offer are in the most presentable, accurate and transparent way possible for designers and suppliers.

With Summer Rayne Oakes at the helm, I pity the fool who tries to pull a fast one on them

For Eco-Shopaholics

Jennifer Miller, founder of Mission Savvy has five “Missions” that represent her online store: Dream, Compassion, Freedom, Instinct and Voice. Each of these collections represent an animal protection issue. She doesn’t bang you over the head with it, instead she creatively offers you clothing from designers that best exemplify her theme.

Five percent of profits generated by sales from the site are donated to a select group of animal welfare and conservation groups who work on the front lines of tough issues.

Although she’s based in Charleston, West Virginia, Miller oftentimes takes her show on the road to a city near you. Check out her tour schedule.

Based in New York City, Kaight’s brick-and-mortar shop and online site has taken center stage for awhile when it comes to boutiques, and there’s good reason for it.

Kaight owner Kate McGregor is always thinking ahead.

She’s another super hip woman having parties with designers, listening to feedback from customers, being a part of the sustainable solution and having a Melissa Store within her store. Too cool.

Designer Lina Rennell who owns Beklina is a marvel at what she puts into her store’s collection.

Think clean, modern eco-design meets art.

Just going to link to the site for this post got me distracted and wanting more from her.

Jute and Jackfruit was at EcoSalon Shops! and it was the first time I got to see a representation of the store and I loved it.

A nice collection of some of the more well-known designers in the field today. The site boasts nice clear pictures, so I can easily check out the clothes I am considering purchasing.

One important goal of Jute and Jackfruit is to empower women worldwide, as the site donates one percent of revenue to environmental and social causes.

“We try to partner with and support independent women designers here in the United States as well as designers and products that are made by women’s artisan groups and cooperatives overseas.”

Based in San Francisco, Eco Citizen’s brick and mortar and online shopping venue are owned by Joslin Van Arsdale who’s background in textiles, trend forecasting and writing help her curate this amazing shop.

Men will be happy there’s something there for them too!

Says Van Arsdale: “It feels good to know that the items I sell are not only well-designed, but also fair trade, organic and sustainable – to know this gives me a purpose.”

Me too, I’m going to get a pair of Melissa shoes as soon as I finish this post.

Foundfuture founder and former 400 Showroom co-owner Shannon Lorraine opened this little marvel this year and I always go back to it when I want inspiration for fun accessories or well, just to buy them.

Mi Asunta’s sexy necklaces and sweet swallow head bands by Love From Hetty and Dave give me that little bit of country and little bit of rock and roll I so desperately need.

Artists running boutiques? Keep it coming.

Sodafine’s designer Erin Weckerle’s boutique specializes in innovative and unique handmade clothing, accessories and gift items, not to mention a ” selective collection of vintage clothing.”

Based in Brooklyn, this sweet little haven of ethical goodness loves its designers and we love them too.

Image: garryknight

The post Your One-Stop-Shop for the Top 20 Eco-Fashion Sites appeared first on EcoSalon.

With not only H&M and organic certifier EcoCert caught in an unprecedented organic cotton scandal, courtesy of “organic cotton” suppliers from India, retailers worldwide can’t help but brace for their own industry-altering aftermath.

According to Ecotextile News, Lothar Kruse, a director of the independent testing laboratory Impetus in Bremerhaven, Germany examined the cotton fabrics that came from Indian farms and claimed roughly “30% of the tested samples” contained genetically modified (GM) cotton.

The head of the Indian agricultural authority Apeda, Sanjay Dave, told the newspaper they were dealing with fraud on “a gigantic scale.”

Organic Exchange, an organization committed to expanding organic agriculture, is releasing figures any day regarding how much so-called organic cotton India has produced on an international level for retail.

Current figures provided by them include 61% of the total amount of organic cotton produced worldwide in 2008-2009 were from them, with some 107,000 tons of fiber out of the total 175,113 tons grown worldwide.

Ecotextile News also reports that “Indian authorities discovered the alleged fraud back in April 2009 and fines were imposed at that time on third party certification agencies EcoCert and Control Union.”

Rumors have been flying for some time in the sustainable textile industry halls that the Indian organic cotton sector has been suspect.

Wondering what’s wrong with genetically modifying organic cotton?

According to the Human Genome Project, the act of genetically modifying something like organic cotton has its own ripple effect from the potential environmental impacts of unintended transfer of trans genes through cross-pollination and unknown effects on other organisms (e.g., soil microbes), to the loss of flora and fauna biodiversity.

Cut to the chase: when we screw with nature, we screw ourselves.

So what kind of ripple effect will this new information have on the entire sustainable textile industry?

Aside from the fact that eco-haters will have a field day bashing sustainable industries striving to make progress, this presents a great (if painful) opportunity to thoroughly consider our supply chains.

When companies large and small can’t trust certifiers and government officials to ensure organic products are in fact organic, we in the eco-world have reached a breach of the worst sort.

From designers to retailers, from teachers to industry writers, we all will come to realize that trust in large corporations and organizations can still be a shaky commodity and one that will require even more stringent watch-dogging.

One can only hope this clamp down won’t add a larger price tag to an already inflated organic ticket.

Image: Le Xav

The post The Ripple Effect of India’s Organic Cotton Scandal appeared first on EcoSalon.

Here’s an article to stop you in your tracks.

Ecotextile News reports on the Vidarbha region of Maharashtra, India -an area troubled by its farmer suicide problem – and the tribal area of Adilabad, Andhra Pradesh. For those of you not aware that watchdogs are necessary, you need only read on.

According to Coral Rose, founder of Eco-Innovations, companies like Designs LLC, (doing business as Jonäno), CSE, Inc. (d/b/a Mad Mod) and Pure Bamboo, LLC are guilty of deceptively labeling and advertising their products as made of bamboo fiber when in fact they’re made of rayon. Welcome to the Wild West of sustainable consumer goods.

The companies have been charged with making false and unsubstantiated “green” claims, stating that their finished products retain the natural antimicrobial properties of the original bamboo plant. Litigation continues against the fourth company The M Group, Inc., d/b/a Bamboosa, and its principals.

Susan Donaldson, senior buyer for eco retailer VivaTerra (full disclosure: VivaTerra is an EcoSalon sponsor), says the takeaway from this controversy is that our current system for labeling a product leaves a lot to be desired.

“Whether a material is called ‘bamboo’ or ‘rayon from bamboo’, neither one tells us much about the lifecycle of the product,” says Donaldson. “What kind of energy is used making this item and how much? What kind of dyes? What are the workers treated like? What happens when you dispose of it?”

Still, Donaldson is optimistic about the bamboo controversy.

“I believe there still is a great opportunity with bamboo, and just as we are seeing such progress in the organic cotton industry, I hope that manufacturers of rayon made from bamboo can also transition to more sustainable processing.”

VivaTerra sources their bamboo textiles from a fair trade company that maintains a closed-loop, carbon-neutral manufacturing process and factory – one of many bamboo companies making real efforts to improve both transparency and eco-credibility.

In researching the issue further, I read this story about Zameen Organic, a farmer-owned, organic cotton trading and marketing company. Zameen grows and promotes Fairtrade, organic and pesticide-free cotton and works with farming communities in rural India through GOTS certification. The funds amassed from the venture will be used to strengthen sales teams across the US, Europe and India with the aim of building up a presence at retail level and in particular in high-street stores.

Ecotextile New says, “Now numbering more than 4,000, the farmers, who invest their own capital into Zameen, hold the most shares in the company and play a big part in shaping the policies as well as benefiting from shareholder dividends.”

For every ton of raw cotton Zameen buys from farmers, they set aside an organization development expense of 1,100 rupees (approximately US$24) to invest in Zameen. Last season, Zameen harvested around 374 tons of organic cotton.

Though not a total solution for the region, Zameen Organic has helped substantially with a decrease in suicide farmers whose crops have yielded nothing and land sharks still bilk them for 60% interest. Many men, seeing no hope in sight, go out into the fields that are supposed to support them, drink the farming pesticide and die.

Though the bamboo textile industry in many cases needs improvement, I believe that the more sustainable options these farmers have at their disposal, the better.

Image from the collection of the International Rice Research Institute

The post Suicide Farmers See Hope in Sustainable Farming appeared first on EcoSalon.

Both of my grandmothers worked in textile and sewing mills in Fall River when the city was in its heyday. My paternal grandmother, a Kerouac, came from Montreal to work, leaving behind all that she knew for a different life.

Sometimes I think about the power these jobs held for young women when I see beautiful pictures of her clad in stylish garb on French fire escapes, young and content. I think these mills called to women to come out of kitchens and washrooms to do something with more purpose. Many of them knew how to sew already, so this was just money made for what they already did.

Having a sense of community also gave them power and strength and a voice to protest against unfair wages and long work hours. What doesn’t kill us only makes us stronger.

Today, when you go into Fall River, you’ll see those goliath mills crumbling or filled with an outdated outlet mall. Others are being turned into loft apartments and some just line the highway going south into Rhode Island like crumbling icons of when the city was worth something more. You can say the same of Lowell and Lawrence, Massachusetts.

When I came across an Ecotextile News story about how U.S.-based Sustainable Textile Group LLC, a producer of fabric made from pre-consumer waste, was to move into the former Hanesbrands production facility in Rowan County, North Carolina, I felt hope.

Surely there are other large companies that can make us proud and restore these dilapidated buildings for textile manufacturing. It will take government legislation and hard agreements within the U.S. textile industry to woo cautious businesses to start again, but wouldn’t it be worth it?

Can you imagine if all the mills came back to life and had the same standards to which we hold China? Eco-designers could get even greener, skilled women from knitting and sewing groups could come out of hiding and real estate values would only appreciate in these towns hung out to dry.

Image: Keeley Library

The post All Hail the Millers appeared first on EcoSalon.

New eco-fabrics are constantly being developed all over the world.

One day, what we think is so forward now (organic cotton, bamboo and tencel) will be as normal to us as breakfast cereal.

Like Optimer Brand’s 2008 launch of Dri-release E.C.O. [Environmentally Correct Origins] which uses recycled polyester and organic cotton.
According to a recent Ecotextile News press release, “New Dri-release E.C.O. 2nd Nature will combine post-consumer recycled polyester with post-industrial recycled cotton made from garment manufacturing clip waste, yielding a product made from 100% recycled materials.”

To produce the new fabric, Optimer has teamed up with Ferre-Hickory, LLC, a joint venture between Hilaturas Ferre of Spain and North Carolina Hickory Throwing Company. The Ferre-Hickory duo will produce the yarn, incorporating 2nd Nature 100% recycled cotton which is said to significantly reduce the amount of waste in landfills, as well as the water, pesticides, dyes and electricity used to produce and process cotton. Of course, it’s all free of harmful chemicals.

As I said the other day to an eco-fashion friend, “Not buying eco-clothing is similar to me eating a plate full of high fructose corn syrup. Why would I even consider it at this point?”

The post Becoming Second Nature appeared first on EcoSalon.

We eco-fabric lovers are insatiable!

Organic cotton? Been there.

Bamboo? Closet full of it.

Rescued fabrics? Doing it for years.

So what’s new?

Chicken feathers.

Now, before you wrinkle your nose and say no way, let’s think about it this. Let’s pretend we are on a desert island and need some clothes and all around us, chickens are clucking and feathers are flying.
Your clothes are literally unraveling and, well”¦chicken feathers.

According to an Ecotextile News article, millions of tons of feathers end up in landfills yearly but new research in the U.S., Australia and Canada is underway that could result in the tossed feathers becoming sustainable yarns.

Ecotextile News cites CSIRO research scientist Andrew Poole, with saying the regeneration of the keratin in chicken feathers, which is just like wool with the help of nano-particles, may prove successful in transforming the by-product into sustainable fibers. Researchers are particularly interested in the barbs and barbules which have a thin, honeycomb-like structure containing tiny air pockets that make the fabric lightweight and resilient.

Also cited in the same article is Professor Yiqi Yang of the Textiles, Clothing and Design department at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln.

Professor Yang says the idea of creating new textiles from chicken feathers and rice straw occurred to him mostly because of energy and environmental concerns, but also because “55% of all fibers are from petroleum and not degradable.”

Not to mention their use could add value to agriculture.
Other possible textiles he and his students have begun research on are corn byproducts, wheat byproducts, switch grass, cotton stalks, and many other materials most people consider non-useful.

Image: Desmond Kavanagh

The post Chicken Feathers! appeared first on EcoSalon.