We love style. We love fashion. We also want to make sure our sartorial choices do little damage to the world as we can. Eco-friendly clothing manufacturers throw around terms like “conscientious” and “sustainable fashion”, but what does that really mean?

There are plenty of fashion designers that describe themselves as eco-friendly. While brands may use it as part of their marketing plan, are they really good for the environment?

How do you choose sustainable fashion?

1. Shop Low Impact Dying

While many fabrics may start out as sustainable fibers, the finishing process can cancel that out pretty quickly. Organic cottons quickly lose their earthy appeal when chemical dyes and formaldehyde are used to treat them. South Carolina-based Gaia Conceptions grows its own plant and pigment-based dyes made from natural sources to color its clothing. These are great for both the planet and the wellness of the person wearing them. The company also uses fiber reactive dyes. These are developed for higher absorption rates so chemicals are not needed to fix them to the fiber. This also means that less water is wasted or used.

2. Let the fabric suit the fashion

Fashion fans love silk as a luxury fabric. Unfortunately, many don’t realize that typical silk manufacturing involves boiling and killing the silk worms after they have produced the fibers. Peace silk or vegan silk is a fabric made only with silk fiber casings only after the worms have emerged and moved on. This is a much more humane practice but costly. To keep it truly eco, peace silk should be bought in natural colors. This makes peace silk an ideal choice for green weddings. Conscientious brides often have a natural aesthetic for their wedding and are willing to splurge on the perfect dress. Boutiques like The Cotton Bride in Brooklyn, New York are committed to using such fabrics. Their wedding gowns are even sewn in-house.

3. Respect the maker

We hear a lot about Fair Trade and fair labor practices. Is there a way to really know if your dress was made by a happy seamstress? You can support that ethos by shopping from designers that work with organizations like the Ethical Fashion Initiative, a joint project with the United Nations. You can check if your brand is accredited by the Fair Labor Association. These organizations ensure that workers have decent working conditions and wages. Some companies like Satara go a step further in providing skills training and financial guidance. Its website even allows you to find the individual woman who made your garment. The fashion industry has enabled many women in third world countries to improve their quality of life and become financially independent.

4. Wear Fabrics Made from Recycled Fiber

Buying a jacket that helps empty the landfills of all those plastic bottles? That is fabulous. Patagonia was one of the first major clothing manufacturers to work with PET (polyethylene terephthalate) fabrics. Its patented Polartec fabric is a form of polyester. While a synthetic, petroleum-based textile sounds like the opposite of eco-friendly, PET’s main strength is that it uses recycled fibers to produce. Recycling garbage like plastic bottles and collected old garments to make this fabric cuts down on the energy and fossil fuels needed to make it compared to traditional polyester. While this may not please organic trendsetters, this should make upcycled and recycled fashion fans happy.

What sustainable fashion boils down to is often what your Eco-friendly clothing is boiled in. Many fibers can be farmed or produced in a sustainable way, but the finishing is what makes or breaks its Eco cred. Also, think about who is doing the boiling. Guests are afraid to mistreat a chef at a restaurant handling their food. Wouldn’t you want to make sure the person making our clothing is happy too?

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Images: Mariana Leung

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Dutch company Dyecoo (which literally stands for dyeing with CO2) has developed a revolutionary textile dyeing machine that uses carbon dioxide in place of water.

It is estimated that an average 40 gallons of water is used to dye about 2.5 pounds of textile material. More than 60 billion pounds of textiles are dyed annually, making the textile industry one of the thirstiest in the world, as water is used as a solvent in many textile treatment and finishing processes. But our freshwater resources are drying up, necessitating the search for realistic alternatives. That’s where Dyecoo steps in with a textile dyeing method where carbon dioxide takes center stage, completely eliminating H20 from the picture.

The Dyecoo process is revolutionary in terms of its environmental impact. Compared to water-based dyeing, carbon dioxide textile dyeing uses no chemicals (eliminating toxic chemical leaching into waterways and soil), requires no drying time and is twice as fast,  hence requiring much less energy. Although the technology is currently utilized for polyester, the development of CO2 dyes for natural fibers and other petro-chemical textiles is underway.

So how can you possibly eliminate water from a dyeing process? By creatively researching and manipulating chemical components. The scientists at Dyecoo explain that when carbon dioxide is heated and pressurized to a certain point, it exists in both gas and liquid forms. This means that in its liquid state the CO2 can dissolve dyes, while its gaseous state its viscous and diffusive properties allow for even dispersal of dyes and shorter dyeing times when compared to water. Dyeing with carbon dioxide is much more efficient than dyeing with water as it is quicker and doesn’t involve drying since the gaseous CO2 is released at the end of the process. Up to 90 percent of the released and recaptured CO2 can be recycled as all of the dyeing takes place in one machine.

Although the concept of waterless dyeing has undergone research for the last three decades, only in the last five years have scalable machines for industrial use been developed. Dyecoo has managed to attract textile manufacturers worldwide with its new machine and process, as the cost savings are an important driver for factory owners and stakeholders. Nike is the largest apparel manufacturer thus far to have announced a strategic partnership with Dyecoo, which it announced in 2012 in an effort to drive the technology throughout the industry. It is hoped that the technology will be widely adopted in Asia, where most of the world’s most pollutive textile dyeing occurs.

Image: nrdc_media

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