iceland – EcoSalon

Please Don’t Bulldoze the Elves: Environmentalists in Iceland Fight for (Imaginary?) Regional Creatures

Jill Ettinger — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 08:00:01 +0000

Environmentalists are often sloughed off as extremists and freaks. So is it any surprise that Icelandic elves are a reason to thwart a highway expansion project?

Yes, that’s right. Elves.

In Iceland—home of Bjorks and fjords—there are also elves. And advocates for elves. These advocates have partnered with environmentalists in efforts to get the Icelandic Road and Coastal Commission to drop plans for a highway project in the Alftanes peninsula because it could disturb a fragile elf habitat. And an elf church. All of which wouldn’t be such a farfetched preservation plan if, you know, elves actually existed.

According to the Huffington Post, Iceland’s Supreme Court will rule on a case brought by a group called Friends of Lava. Until the case is heard, the Icelandic Road and Coastal Commission has to halt its highway project. “And it’s not the first time issues about “Huldufolk,” Icelandic for “hidden folk,” have affected planning decisions,” reports the Post. “They occur so often that the road and coastal administration has come up with a stock media response for elf inquiries, which states in part that ‘issues have been settled by delaying the construction project at a certain point while the elves living there have supposedly moved on’.”

However quaint the elf folklore may be—and Scandinavian folklore is full of elves and trolls—the region (Denmark, Norway, Sweden) generally doesn’t take elves seriously. Unless you’re in Iceland, where a University of Iceland study found 62 percent of those surveyed believed it was “at least possible that elves exist,” reports the Post.

Friends of Lava supporters and environmentalists are mostly concerned about the environmental impact the Alftanes project would have on the area’s lava field. So perhaps the elves are just a way to tell the story. Or maybe it’s even a bit more. According to Terry Gunnell, a folklore professor at the University of Iceland, who told the Post, “In short, everyone is aware that the land is alive,” he said. “And one can say that the stories of hidden people and the need to work carefully with them reflects an understanding that the land demands respect.” Sometimes a good story makes all the difference. Especially if it’s about elves.

Keep in touch with Jill on Twitter @jillettinger

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I’d Rather Be in … Reykjavik

Sarah Pascarella — Mon, 03 Jun 2013 07:00:55 +0000

Geothermal hot springs and mineral baths. Northern Lights. All-night parties and cozy cafes. Any and all of these experiences can be had with a visit to Reykjavik, just a short flight from both Boston and New York (and an easy connection for other U.S. cities).

Where to Stay

A Green Getaway

The Grand Hotel, Iceland’s largest, is a certified Nordic Ecolabel hotel, and has conservation policies in place for energy and water consumption, as well as continuous recycling and waste reduction efforts. Management chooses environmentally friendly and organic products and services “whenever possible”; the hotel’s restaurant offers a daily organic breakfast.

A Sleek Retreat

Designed by local architect Gulla Jonsdottir, Centerhotel Thingvolt celebrates modern Icelandic architecture, with an emphasis on clean lines, neutral hues, and natural materials. Sky Lounge and Bar, located on the top floor, offers fantastic views of the surrounding mountains and fun cocktails (try the only-in-Reykjavik “Sex on a Glacier” – vodka, Curacao blue, and Sprite). And should you venture out, the hotel is situated right downtown, so if you take advantage of Reykjavik’s legendary nightlife, you’ll never be too far from your home base.

Where to Eat

Lobster + Soup = Bliss

Located on the waterfront, the Sea Baron features the freshest seafood, served in a casual and friendly setting. I rarely visit a restaurant more than once during a vacation – with such limited time, I try to sample as many places as possible. I broke this rule for the Sea Baron, visiting it three times in a week, each time to get a bowl of their incredible lobster soup. It comes in a generous mug, with bread to dip. The broth is creamy yet light; the lobster rich; the vegetables crisp and tender. Just writing this makes me want to book another flight, just so I can have another taste.

An Artful Breakfast

The Grey Cat Café serves a fantastic breakfast in a cozy setting that doubles as a bookstore. The American-style offerings include generous portions of eggs, bacon, pancakes, and other staples; the coffee is brisk and satisfying. Guests are welcome to browse the books while they wait. Across the street from the National Theater, it’s a great place to brush elbows with the arts- and theater crowd.

Only In Reykjavik

Night Hiking

The first rays of what photographers called “the golden hour”, that amazing time just before sunset, kicked in just after 9 p.m. My new friends and I sat in a geothermal riverbed in Iceland’s “Smoky Valley”, about a 45-minute drive outside of Reykjavik. We were about halfway through our White Night hike, a four-hour trek that didn’t get going until late in the day – but still enjoyed full sun for most of the journey. I’d never started a hike so late – but then again, I also never sat in a river that was a balmy 80 degrees. Sveinn, our guide, poured us a few glasses of wine and passed out sandwiches and mugs of soup (heated, of course, in the river). I leaned back into the warm creek bed and took in the view of the surrounding mountains.

Music from the Source

The reputation of Reykjavik’s music scene—a haven for indie rock, sweeping orchestral pop, and electronica—has been growing in buzz, and I had heard 12 Tonar, a downtown music store/indie record label, was the place to check out new bands. I browsed the staff/publisher recommendations, and requested five albums to sample. The clerk directed me to a cozy lounge with multiple portable players and coffee tables with the newest weekly arts and entertainment papers – but first, he offered me an espresso. I sipped my coffee and listened to the music, delightfully unhurried. Even better – once I found a few bands I liked, I cross-referenced them against the local arts listings to see if any would be performing during my vacation dates. (Sadly, they weren’t – but my album purchases became the soundtrack of our trip, and are still cherished souvenirs.)

Why I’ll Go Back…

Iceland’s land-based wonders are perhaps only slightly less famous than the celestial ones. The Northern Lights, typically visible from September through early April, paint the sky in brilliant colors, and are visible from most parts of the country. On my recent visit, the conditions weren’t quite right to see them – so this is just an excuse to return!

Have you visited Reykjavik? Leave a comment and share your best travel tips!

Image: Visit Reykjavik

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Daily Track: Þyrnigerðið – Jónas Sigurðsson

Anna Brones — Wed, 22 Aug 2012 18:10:10 +0000

Every day is better with a new track.

Download the track as part of the Music Alliance Pact August 2012 collection.

Every day we bring you one track for a little musical inspiration. Have a track you want to submit? Email us at contact@ecosalon.com.

Image: Rjominn

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Daily Track: Little Talks – Of Monsters and Men

Anna Brones — Thu, 07 Jun 2012 21:48:40 +0000

Every day is better with a new track.

Little Talks by Of Monsters and Men

Image: Of Monsters and Men

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Daily Track: Into the Forest – The Lovely Lion

Anna Brones — Fri, 25 May 2012 21:48:13 +0000

Every day is better with a new track.
The Lovely Lion – Into the forest by hjorvarhb

Every day we bring you one track for a little musical inspiration. Have a track you want to submit? Email us at contact@ecosalon.com.

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40 Gorgeous Photos of Europe

Jessica Marati — Mon, 02 Jan 2012 14:02:47 +0000

The Grand Tour and beyond.

We’re all familiar with the rolling hills of Tuscany, the cliffs of Santorini, the Eiffel Tower in Paris. But Europe is so much more than classic postcard images. As the continent’s Eastern half becomes more accessible, spots like the ports of Dubrovnik, the caves of Slovenia, and the Renaissance towns of the Czech Republic are becoming more popular as travelers venture off the traditional backpacker’s route. As everywhere, sustainable tourism practices are needed to protect this region’s intense natural beauty.

(above) Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland

Pembrokeshire, Wales, UK

St. Petersburg, Russia

The Pyrenees, Aquitaine, France