A weekly look at sex and culture, by the numbers.

If anyone has the right to be irritated this week, it’s Kate Middleton. Can’t a Duchess get a little uninterrupted tanning time in? In her royal honor, we’ve dedicated this week’s Sex By Numbers to every woman that just wants to be left alone (there’s an app for that, by the way).

24 Hours: Length of time that a French court gave the gossip magazine Closer to hand over topless photos of The Duchess of Cambridge. Will and Kate won an injunction against the tabloid shortly after the pictures were published on Monday.

1 in 10: Only 10% of sexual harrassment incidences are reported. The Metropolitan Action Committee on Violence Against Women and Children, based in Toronto, has created a helpful app which provides snarky responses to cat calls and ways to dispel unsolicited and inappropriate attention.

60s: When it comes to the sex lives of people over the age of 40, Hollywood has historically left the subject alone, until now. A new film starring Meryl Streep (63) and Tommy Lee Jones (66) is boldly and funnily “acknowledging that sexuality in older age exists.”

90: Thinking about the act of sex outside the context of, well, sex can make the actual mechanics seem kind of off-putting. A new study in the journal PLoS ONE that surveyed 90 women found that sexual arousal lessens gave the “disgust factor” that might otherwise be associated with the exchange of all those bodily fluids.

3rd highest: The state of Texas has the 3rd highest teen pregnancy rate in the nation. Despite this, some parents would still rather opt out of the new sex-ed curriculum that is being adopted by many Texas schools, which aims to take a more realistic approach to the sexual lives of teenagers.

54%: When it comes to sexting, teenagers are doing anything but leaving each other alone. A Los Angeles based study found that 54% of teens know someone that engages in sexting and that the act is usually an indicator of further sexually risky behavior.

64: Women who regularly read magazines such as Cosmopolitan (which has a total of 64 international editions) or others that include scripts about female sexual desire are more likely to “prioritise their sexual desire for their own sake, but not for the male partner.”

80%: Number of Egyptian women who report having experienced some form of sexual harassment. The study, carried out by the Egyptian Centre for Women’s Rights, found most of the victims were wearing headscarves.

Image: Tom Soper Photography

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Strategic Style: How the language of our clothing affects people and our culture.

Our clothing speaks volumes about us. Silently communicating our sex, age and class even giving away important clues  – or red herrings – about our occupation, opinions and state of mind. While human beings have communicated with one another in the language of dress for thousands of years, some outfits are figuratively shouting out loud their wearer’s state of mind.

Let’s take Katie Holmes’ recent makeover. Since Holmes filed for divorce in a New York court eleven days ago, her wardrobe choices have been carefully orchestrated to leverage media exposure. From the sweet tops, no-make up and practical ballet flats – suitable for ice-cream outings with Suri – to the glossy and groomed look – a navy silk dress from her own line, Holmes & Yang and bold heels by Roger Vivier –  for a guest appearance on Project Runway, it’s clear she’s well aware of the strategic effect of her image on divorce proceedings and public opinion.

We’re familiar with the idea of statement pieces, usually bold and interesting accessories – rings, sunglasses and purses that connotate a sense of signature style. But what about the outfits documented through history that, upon closer inspection, have consciously been chosen by the wearer to broadcast a signature statement?

Was there ever a dress more aware of its symbolism than Kate Middleton’s Alexander McQueen wedding dress? A collaboration between the bride and U.K. designer Sarah Burton, the ivory silk tulle dress was notable for its demure long sleves, hand appliquéd with different lace symbols of Great Britain: the rose of England, Scottish thistles, Welsh daffodils and Irish shamrocks. Described by Vogue as a “a feat of appropriateness,” this was a choice that perhaps deliberately evoked Princess Grace’s iconic wedding dress – a fellow “commoner” who also married into royalty with a steadfast intention to never put a foot wrong.

In contrast, a low-cut, short black dress worn by Princess Diana to the Serpentine Gallery in 1994, on the evening Prince Charles admitted adultery with Camilla Parker-Bowles on British television, was designed to raise eyebrows. Designed by Christina Stambolia, the “revenge” dress was thought to convey a clear message of defiance against the royal establishment. Queen Elizabeth was said to have urged the couple to reach a final agreement shortly after, before the couple’s separation and divorce seriously damaged the monarchy.

When Grace Kelly arrived in Monaco on April 12, 1956 for her wedding to Prince Rainier, she choose to wear a stylish navy Ben Zuckerman coat and a large white organdy hat.  The hat’s extra wide brim shielded much of her face, famously dismaying the Monegasques and worlds attending press, who were hoping to get a look at her. Will we ever know if it was a self conscious signal on her part, guarding her last moment of personal freedom before the subsequent unveiling of a very public Princess Grace.

Known to be fully aware of the considerable political capital of her style, Jacqueline Kennedy could’ve never imagined the shocking effect her pink boucle Chanel-style suit would eventually have on that fateful November day in 1962. Despite efforts to get her to change out of her clothes, her decision to keep wearing the blood and gore spattered suit onboard Air Force One for LBJ’s swearing-in was deliberate.  “Let them see what they’ve done, she insisted.”

Want to catch up on some more fashion history?

Now & Then: The History of the “It” Bag

Now & Then: The History of Flared Pants

Now & Then: The History of the Ballet Flat

Now & Then: The History of Shorts

Now & Then: Met Ball’s Most Memorable Dresses

Now & Then: The History of the Breton Shirt

Now & Then: The History of the Platform Shoe

Now & Then: The History of Fitness Wear

Now & Then: The History of the Pencil Skirt

Now & Then: The History of the Cocktail Dress

Now & Then: The History of Skinny Jeans

Read more Now & Then articles here.

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Collaborations for environment and sustainability abound this summer.

Despite contributing to a whole lot of fast fashion, the fashion collaboration phenomenon is far from losing any steam. Teaming designers with retailers like Missoni for Target and the hot off-the-press announcement of Versace for H&M, has even hardened ethical fashion editors like us tempted. Seems like everyone is getting in on the hard-to-resist concept. Happily, that also includes a new wave of partnerships between high profile brands and environmental causes.

Cult beauty brand, Crème de la Mer lined up with ocean saving charity Oceana to raise awareness for World’s Ocean Day on June 8th. In conjunction with a special launch of a blue line limited edition jar of their celebrated algae rich moisturizing cream, the company contributed $200,000 to the charity and produced a mesmerizing film, The Seven Seas Sound Mix. Described as “an ambient journey showing seven remarkable people muse about their love for the sea in a sensory compilation that focuses on sustainability, ocean awareness and the infinite beauty of the sea,” the film is an effective appeal to preserve the world’s endangered oceans.

Outspoken and visionary, Dame Vivienne Westwood has long looked out for the environment as part of her personal manifesto. Announcing last week a second collaboration with the International Trade Center and their Ethical Fashion Africa Project, her latest range of brightly colored bags and accessories will now be widely available on the YOOX site. A short film directed by Juergen Teller that premiered in Florence showed Vivienne teaching her skills to locals in Nairobi. In her inimitable way, she announced that the sales from these bags go towards helping impoverished Africans, but the making of them provides work “not charity.”

Asos, the online fashion brand that is slowly but surely establishing itself as the web’s most expansive fashion presence announces their second Asos Africa collection this month. The first, launched earlier this year was made by small producer groups in Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa and is dedicated to creating jobs in underprivileged communities there. Sure to be a hit after Michelle Obama was spotted this week wearing a sleeveless print cotton shirt from the line, if you don’t believe in the “Obama effect” just ask J.Crew.

Emerging style icon, Kate Middleton is well known for her love of mass market retailers or what the British call “high street” chains. One of her favorites, Whistles, has just has launched its first capsule eco collection in conjunction with Ciel, the award-winning, sustainable label. The collection is comprised of eight beach wear pieces in prints inspired by heritage brand Liberty. Whether you like her style or not, she is fast becoming one of the worlds most photographed women.  If she were to decide to wear one of those pieces during her visit to Los Angeles next week, she’d be having an ethical “effect” all her own.

Image: viviennewestwood.co.uk, Kate Middleton in The Telegraph

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As we all sat in our homes filled with factory made goods admiring the Oscar fashion show this past week, it was inspiring to think those glorious gowns were in fact one of the last examples of a custom, handmade product being made by some of the most talented craftsmen still working in America.

Fashioned from the finest silks, satins and tulle and worn on bodies honed by private Pilates classes, green juices and spa treatments, we might assume that’s what only big money can do for you. But it’s the fact that these dresses are literally built around the Hollywood elite that makes the difference. Details matter: Like the hand-sewn hidden stitch that helps to keep a seam clean and invisible, or tailoring to flatter a long neck or shade a thick waist.

In these days of mass market fashion designed to fit a wide variety of shapes and sizes in just a small, medium and large, the art of tailoring the perfect fit is very much a lost one. And yet I’m prepared to bet your favorite items in your wardrobe, the ones you reach for most often, are the ones that fit you best.

Beyond taking in a side seam and properly fitting an armhole, learning simple tailoring techniques such as chopping off a hem or cutting the arms off an old trench can breathe new life into your wardrobe and help you to get on trend with just a rip of a seam. Not to mention that with all our efforts to turn the industry toward using sustainability, recycling your old clothes is probably your best bet if you truly want to green your wardrobe and look great.

Take a page out of Kate Middleton’s book. The princess-to-be appeared at her first royal walk-about last week in a recycled herringbone coat that had been shortened to show off her legs, proving there is nothing downmarket about a little fashion reconstruction.

Many people say vintage and thrift shopping is not for them and understandably squirm at the idea of taking out the scissors and creating something new from their old clothes.

I’m a dab hand with a needle and thread and yet I wouldn’t go near transforming the neckline of a bias cut dress from the 1930’s made from delicate wool crepe by myself. Trying to change necklines and armholes is best left to a professional until you gain more proficiency, or maybe just some courage. For that I turned to talented tailor-in-residence Holly Samuelsen from Gravel and Gold in San Francisco. Samuelsen is a “reconstructive therapist” for vintage lovers and bike messengers in the Mission district of San Francisco.

Going to a good tailor to have your clothes pinned and have the lines smoothed out to fit the body? You can expect to pay about $45 an hour. According to Samuelsen, the key to do-it-yourself-tailoring is “Don’t be afraid.” Simple things like taking in side seams and hems to gain a better personal fit are things you can attempt yourself. Adding ribbons and appliqués are fun projects and would cost a lot to have a professional do, so try some of these alterations yourself.

Once you gain an understanding of what you can do and what your tailor is able to do, your thrift exploration is widened. As Samuelsen says, “When I’m in a thrift store, I’m shopping for material.” Next time you see that eye-catching jacket from the 80’s with a bang-on, trendy tribal print that looks just like the ones you just saw on Proenza Schouler’s recent runway, realize that for $5, a little slimming of the width by taking in the side seams and a visit to your tailor to reshape those crazy wide shoulders – you’ll have a fresh jacket just like that.

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That title is maybe too far a stretch, but after last week’s feasting, stretching – and more crucially, constraining – might be the perfect metaphor for fashion’s brewing trend – outfits and accessories that accentuate the waist.

If you’ve been busy digesting designer pre-fall 2011 offerings, you’ve noticed the subtle references to the waist-friendly 70s that dominated springs/summer 2011 collections continue to endure. At DKNY the long flared pants, tucked in sheer blouses and midi-length skirts were paired with brightly-colored tie belts to give a fresh, modern look to the retro separates.

While the look is often referred to as high waisted, I think what we’re seeing on the runways is actually a return of the natural waist. In terms of traditional garment construction, the natural waist refers to the smallest part of a women’s midsection. Long celebrated as the epitome of femininity, isn’t it strange that a lady-like pulled-in waist silhouette seems like such an anachronism now?

Vintage lovers know first hand that while we are getting bigger overall, the waist has grown more in proportion. There is evidence to suggest the increasing stress of our modern day lives has rendered women more apple-shaped, but I’ve always wondered if there’s a bit of a muscle memory component to it. After years of low-rise jeans, tunics, blousons-style tops and long tees, we’re no longer used to clothes that focus our attention to this area of our bodies. Certainly, women under the age of 45 aren’t. Wearing a corset – or even a tight belt – during your ordinary day of sitting, standing and walking around is an informing experiment. I’ve marveled at how it forces you to tighten the upper part of your torso, automatically giving you the flat tummy and straight back you go to Pilates class for.

Perhaps the easiest way to creating an hourglass shape of your own is to employ an optical illusion or two. Wrap dresses, cardigans and tops that create a deep V neckline are brilliant for this. Royal bride-to-be, Kate Middleton demonstrated the effectiveness of this strategy in her Issa-designed engagement dress, adding the perception of curves to her reedy physique. Anything that highlights a low v-neck, such as a dangly medallion on a chain (very 70’s) works. By building volume at the shoulders and hips, voluminous sleeves, tulip skirts, and boat neck lines are particularly clever for whittling down the look of a waist too. Another trick is is wearing a fitted top and bottom in the same color to create the illusion of length and adding a contrasting belt. My sneaky move in summer is to wear a black top with white jeans to streamline an almost daily ice-cream bloat.

Since we all have a closet full of those blousons-style tops, I’m not suggesting throwing them out this coming season, but simply tucking them in and belting them up. So, if your fashion future is looking nipped in, cinched and knotted at the waist – or you’re thinking of all the money you’ll save on Pilates – you’ll want a new sustainably-made belt. Check out this Obi wrap belt by taxi cdc, made from reclaimed materials. Available from Candystore Collective and Shift Boutique.

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