It was one of those Friday nights: Organic popcorn, elastic-waist pants, and a scouring of the Internet for free streaming documentaries. “Sure,” I thought to myself, “I’ll turn this into a semi-productive evening, and find a fashion documentary that might be of interest to my friends at EcoSalon.” It was settled. I would watch the James Belzer film,  “Make it in America: Empowering Global Fashion.”

It was roughly 32 minutes into the film when I had to face the bitter truth about my response to this film. “I am so BORED,” I exclaimed to no one. Perhaps my expectations were too high; after all, when I saw the words “Empowering Global Fashion” in the title, I anticipated a harsh, transparent look at the global supply chain and lessons from industry experts on how to keep fashion local. Instead, “Make it in America” seemed to tell the same story over and over again: “My parents came here and worked as tailors in the ’50s. This is what the Garment District looked like. And then, everything got outsourced to China.”

So what?

It’s not that I carry a blatant disregard for the ugly truth about fashion’s global supply chain. After all, Laura Kissel’s “Cotton Road” comes with a deep, investigative look at what outsourcing means for the industry players in China, going beyond the well-known issues related to labor and factories. And it’s not that I don’t care about how we got to this point, either; understanding the fashion industry’s history is imperative to figuring out how to make it sustainable, and how to let it support a local economy again. “Make it in America,” unfortunately, leaves that unsatisfyingly open-ended.

The film does provide an encouraging glimpse at U.S. clothing companies that are keeping it local; they use vertical integration to keep most manufacturing operations under one roof, their products are hand-cut, and they source local suppliers for things like tags and labels (Elan Savir has been using the same small business for this task “since day one,” he says). But they leave no model to follow; no examples of what makes it work, how it makes business more efficient, or how other businesses can do the same thing and still remain profitable.

The film opens with a quote from Martha Stewart: “We’re faced with a big problem. How can we make enough goods for our growing population that will be affordable and well-made? How can we do that here, back in the United States?” The question goes, sadly, unanswered. There are numeric figures dictated by fashion professionals that illustrate the drop in domestic production or jobs, followed by an egregious gap that I would like to see filled with the implications of those numbers, and solutions to them.

The film ends with some thoughts on what needs to happen next, which don’t go tremendously beyond the obvious. “I think that it’s a place where we need to invest some money in rebuilding the infrastructure,” says Theory CEO Andrew Rosen, toward the conclusion.

“If we don’t have the support of the industry, they’ll be no homegrown manufacturing,” echoes J. Alexander, of “America’s Top Model” fame. “Sorry.”

Furthermore, the film seems to conveniently gloss over the questions it raises about more than just the supply chain. During one scene in a Los Angeles denim factory, for example, workers are seen wearing protective mouth and nose masks during the process of sanding and washing jeans. “Why?” I asked. “What are our jeans being made or treated with that’s not safe to breathe in?” For a documentary with such a lofty title, it seems that its content is filled more with doom-and-gloom historical details, more than empowerment.

That’s not to say, however, that those facts and figures are of no interest. Here’s the information laid out by “Make it in America”; now, it’s up to us to put it to use.

1. “There were so many factories in the beginning, that we would just walk through buildings and knock on doors to see if factories were willing to take our work. We used a lot of word-of-mouth. Friends of other designers would refer us to factories, cutting rooms, pleaters, stitchers. Everyone was really helpful. People really wanted to see us succeed, so I still work with a lot of the same factories I worked with 20 years ago.” Nanette Lepore, designer

2. “You cannot underestimate the importance of the [Garment] District to startups. I mean, without the district, [it] probably would be hard to film ‘Project Runway’ here. … If you can make ten garments in your apartment, how are you going to make 100? The district enables them to take their designs to somebody that will make their patterns, to somebody that will grade their sizes, cut their small quantities, and there are factories that will actually sell them.” Yeohlee, designer

3. “The funny thing about a fashion business, is that there’s no way you can do it alone.  … You hear those origin stories all the time, of just, like, one designer making something out of nothing, and it just magically happens. Yeah, that’s all complete bull-hockey.” Bob Bland, CEO and Founder, Manufacture NY

4. “You can walk these streets, on 37th, 38th, 39th, and you see a bunch of stores on the ground level. The ground-level stores that sell you fabric and trims…it’s not necessarily exactly what you’re looking for, as a designer. They have the big places, like Mood, but first of all, they’re very expensive. Second of all, you can’t go and reorder from them, because [they] generally sell close-out items. They go around to different mills…where there’s leftover fabric. But if you actually want to design and create something, and then reuse that material, you can’t do that by going into the stores on the ground level. So all of the really interesting businesses are on the 2nd, 3rd, or 15th floor of these buildings.” Nelis Parts, former COO/CFO, Manufacture NY

5. “Starting in the ’40s, there was a garment industry here that started to flourish. You had a lot of Jewish manufacturers from New York come down here after WWII, and in the ’50s, sportswear started to flourish. The factories started taking off. They even had a fashion week of sorts. … And then, when the Cuban revolution came, [Cuban immigrants] became the factory workers, and by the ’60s, Miami was the third-largest garment production center, after LA and NY. The garment industry was a way to get a leg-up in the United States.” Doreen Hemlock, Business Writer, Sun Sentinel

6. “Florida was definitely the largest producer of swimwear. What happened, though, was as the economy took a turn at times, production then moved to China. It moved offshore, and really shut down a lot of the production that was done not only in Florida, but also, in the United States.” Judy Stein, Executive Director, Florida Swimwear Association

7. “The other issue with Miami was, the Cuban women that used to come in those days: They retired, and their daughters didn’t want to sit at [a] sewing machine. Those are, today, the doctors and the lawyers.” George Feldenkreis, Chairman and CEO, Perry Ellis International

8. “I believe that the people who make the garment also need to be happy. I believe that if you bought a shirt and it’s being made by people who are suffering and miserable in some far-away country, that somehow, you will feel that when you’re wearing the shirt.” Elan Savir, President, ELAN

Related on EcoSalon

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The Insourcing Trend: What is the Impact of Clothing Made in the USA?

Image of shopping bag via Shutterstock

The post 10 Memorable Quotes From the Less-Than-Memorable Film: ‘Make it in America: Empowering Global Fashion’ appeared first on EcoSalon.

Tired of outsourcing? Made in the USA just got easier.

In the past year, I’ve spoken with dozens of designer entrepreneurs all looking for solutions to the same setbacks.

I can’t find someone willing to produce my minimums. I’m having such a hard time finding a sew shop that will work with me. I can’t find the fabric I need.

Without the right connections, the entire process of setting up a supply chain in the U.S. can almost seem impossible.

Those conversations are what led me to create Factory45, an accelerator program created for designers and makers who want to start sustainable and profitable businesses and keep everything made in the USA.

Why?

The domestic manufacturing industry can seem closed off. Sew shops don’t usually have websites and suppliers don’t always have email addresses. It can be very difficult to get a foot in the door without knowing the right questions to ask.

I created Factory45 to open those doors. I want local designers and makers to have the resources, tools and mentorship to start their businesses in the USA. We so often hear about the support of accelerator programs in the tech and software industries, but there are very few of the same resources available in the consumer goods space. Factory45 is one way to change that.

How does it work?

The program is six months, consisting of three two-month modules. Each module focuses on a different part of the process. By the time each participant has completed the program, he or she will have set up a U.S.-based supply chain, built a website and brand presence, created a crowdfunding campaign, and all of the little steps in between.

Through weekly group calls, bi-monthly one-on-one calls, mentorship, interviews with industry experts, and an entrepreneurial community of peer support, Factory45 guides the entire process of starting a business for designer entrepreneurs.

Who is it for?

The ideal applicant is a designer or maker with an idea for a consumer goods product. Maybe you have an idea for a baby blanket collection or a versatile dress or small-batch women’s apparel. You might only have an idea right now or maybe you’ve already made some traction with an Etsy store and want to scale production. If you need support setting up your supply chain, building an audience and brand presence, and creating a Kickstarter campaign, then you’re the perfect applicant.

Who is running the show?

I’m Shannon Whitehead, the founder of Factory45. In 2010, I co-founded {r}evolution apparel, a sustainable clothing company for travelers and minimalists that was featured in The New York Times, Forbes.com, WSJ.com and Yahoo! News. Our signature piece, The Versalette, one garment that can be worn over 20 different ways, became the highest-funded fashion project in Kickstarter history at that time.

After {r}evolution apparel, I moved on to become a sustainable apparel consultant, advocate and writer. In the past year and a half, I’ve worked with dozens of designers, startups and sustainable brands to grow their businesses and expand their reach.

Want more details?

Everything you need to know is on the Factory45 website here where applications are open until April 28, 2014.

—
I truly believe in combatting fast fashion by supporting slow fashion. I believe that the local, independent designer has a place in this industry and can compete above and beyond the cheap and disposable goods churned out by big corporations.

The resources, mentorship and connections available through Factory45 will show aspiring entrepreneurs that it is possible to create ethical supply chains and do good business by supporting a revival of the U.S. manufacturing industry.

My hope is that Factory45 will create more entrepreneurs who can change the industry with me

Shannon Whitehead is the founder of Factory45, an accelerator program that gives independent makers the resources to start sustainable businesses in the USA. Shannon got her start in 2010 when she co-founded {r}evolution apparel, a sustainable clothing company for female travelers and minimalists that was featured in The New York Times, Forbes.com, TheWallStreetJournal.com and Yahoo! News. Shannon has appeared as a speaker at the World Education Congress, ECO Fashion Week, SXSW, and as a guest lecturer at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising. Applications for Factory45 are now open until April 28, 2014.

Related on EcoSalon

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New Zealand’s First Ethical Fashion Week Plus 3 Hot Kiwi Designers

images via Factory45

The post Designers and Makers, This is for You: ‘Made in the USA’ Accelerator Program appeared first on EcoSalon.

ColumnConscious life, hear me roar.

It could have been when I listened to Nick Hahn, former CEO and co-founder of Cotton, Inc., a keynote speaker at a recent sustainable fashion event at FIT. It might have been when he told the audience that Monsanto may have made his company better and that the use of organic cotton wasn’t all that favorable. After all, regular cotton uses less water and with the impending water crisis well…we all have to pick our battles.

I had to determine which statement was more absurd. I looked around at the women I was surrounded by which included Ecouterre Managing Editor, Jasmin Malik Chua, EcoSalon writers Jessica Marati and Jennifer Barckley, Greta Eagan of GretaGuide, Rona Berg, Editor-in-Chief of Organic Spa magazine, representatives from Eileen Fisher, sustainability professors from FIT, Parsons and Pratt, not to mention a bevy of sustainable designers and fabric suppliers and I cringed.

Who could he be trying to sell his idea too and did he really think this platform was the proper place? We muttered under our breaths “What about the pesticides?,” “What about contaminating the water?,” and most popular, “What a bunch of horseshit.”

Still, people were listening and he might have planted his own genetically modified seed into the brains of some of the audience there. Later in the day, watching him sleepily nodding off in a corner, head on his chest, I had to ask myself again, who are these people running the show?

The next day I literally ran from a breakfast with the Eileen Fisher sustainability team – where we’d just talked about how eco fashion is very political – to meet Erica Wolf of Save the Garment Center who is also designer Nanette Lepore’s assistant.

“I am so slammed,” she said over the phone as I picked up my pace nearing Midtown. “Have you heard what’s going on?”

“Nope. What have I missed?”

By the time I pushed the elevator button to bring me up to Nanette Lepore’s 5th floor studio, I had already passed ABC News outside on the street. Sweat covered and trying to fix myself in the elevator, I was greeted by a Fox News camera man and reporter who were just leaving the studio.

“Sit down there,” Erica whispered pointing to a corner chair and covering the phone.

Here is where I learned of the Olympic uniforms being made in China. As a major supporter of Save the Garment Center, Lepore was on tap to tell the world just how possible it would have been to make that entire uniform in the U.S. After all, it’s the American team so why wouldn’t Ralph Lauren have thought of maybe just this once, taking his American inspirational brand and made it, well, truly American not faux American?

Still, there’s an issue that looms large and it’s this: why now. Why do so many Americans care about U.S. made clothing now? Because it’s the Olympics? Because it’s election year? What about all the other weeks of the year when U.S. consumers are shopping China-cheap buys at Walmart, Forever21 and H&M stores nationwide? Do YOU ever flip the label to see where your clothes are from? Let’s not get all righteous now unless we want to keep walking the talk.

With the Olympics starting in just 10 days, the entire Olympic committee, the athletes, and the entire United States of America now need to get their minds off of why weren’t those tacky Lauren-logo-emblazoned uniforms made here (really? That polo logo passed the committee?) and start backing all the athletes looking for a shot at their personal best. Those men and women waiting for their chance at a glory they have been waiting for since they were little kids swimming in public pools and racing their friends up and down the street.

“I’m so upset. I think the Olympic Committee should be ashamed of themselves,” Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid told Fox News reporters when asked about an ABC News report on the origin of the Ralph Lauren-designed uniforms.

“I think they should take all the uniforms, put them in a big pile and burn them,” Reid added.

Between the Lines is a weekly column navigating the sometimes-sharp, sometimes-blurred lines of conscious life and culture between city and country, between inner worlds and outer.

The post Between the Lines: It’s Election Year, Do You Know Where Your Clothes Are From? appeared first on EcoSalon.

A list of the top sustainable handbag designers currently on the fashion scene.

Sustainably designed handbags have come a long way since their humble beginnings. From vegetable dyed leathers to recycled and organic materials, handbag designers have upped the ante on style, form and function. Here we offer you an extensive list of what we consider to be the top designers in the sustainable handbag field. We’re impressed.

Ampersand As Apostrophe, Seattle, Washington :Upcycled mailbags, recycled materials

Ashley Watson, Vancouver B.C.: Upcycled leather, recycled materials

Beryll, Los Angeles, California: Upcycled leather, made in the U.S.

Beth Springer, Venice, California: Organic hemp linen, plant dyed leather, made in the U.S.

Calleen Cordero, Los Angeles, California: Vegetable tanned leathers, handmade by artisans

Collina Strada, Los Angeles, California: Made in New York, vegan, recycled materials

Cri de Coeur, New York, NY: Recycled plastic, organic cotton, vegan, Made in NYC

Dama, Los Angeles, California:Upcycled leather, recycled materials, vegan

Ellington, Portland, Oregon: Award-winning environmentally responsible tannery that uses efficient processes to reduce water consumption, energy use and CO2 emissions.

Entermodal, Portland, Oregon: Handmade, vegetable tanned leather, will buy back leather after use for recycling

Erin Templeton, Vancouver, B.C.: Upcycled leather

Fleabags, New York, NY: Organic and vintage materials, vegetable-tanned and re-purposed leathers, all materials sourced in the U.S.,  silkscreens use water-based ink

GG2G, Stamford, Connecticut: Repurposed and recycled materials, vegan, made in the U.S.

JADEtribe, New York, NY: Handwoven, organic cottons, natural dyes, fair trade

Jess Rizzuti, New York, NY : Sustainable cork

Kim White, Los Angeles, California: Dead stock, never-used textiles intended for use in American automobiles: cars, trucks and vans, vintage fabrics

Lina Rennell, Northern California: Recycled leather

Lizzie Fortunato, New York, NY: Hand beaded, recycled materials

Love Mert, New York, NY: Upcycled leather, wood scraps from designer’s father’s workshop, organic cotton lining

Matt & Nat, Montreal, Canada: Made in Montreal, lining of recycled plastic bottles, vegan

Passchal, Richmond, Virginia: Recycled inner tubes

Push Pull Cambodia, Takeo Province, Cambodia:Hand woven by Khmer artisans, fair trade

Red Flag, Vancouver, B.C.: Alternative manufacturing, recycled materials

Rising Tide Fair Trade, Brooklyn, NY and New Jersey: Fair Trade Federation certified and Green America approved

Shannon South, New York, NY: Zero waste, recycled leather

Spencer Devine, Brooklyn, NY: Upcycled materials, supports textile artisans in developing countries.

The Sway, New York, NY: Upcycled leather, recycled cotton lining

Teich, New York, NY: Vegetable-tanned and chrome-free leather, vintage materials and fabrics, hemp, linen

Image: The Sway

The post The Ultimate List of Sustainable Handbag Designers (From A-Z) appeared first on EcoSalon.

A list of the top sustainable designers currently on the fashion scene.

Sustainable fashion has come a long way since its humble beginnings with more and more designers taking chances with fabrics, silhouettes and collaborations. Here we offer you an extensive list of what we consider to be the top designers in the sustainable fashion field.

A.D.O. Organics, New York, NY: GOTS (global organic trade standard) certified fabrics, chemical-free herbal dyes, Fair Trade.

Afia, New York, NY: Sustainable women’s clothing line sourced and sewn in Ghana, West Africa.

Ajna, New York, NY: Certified organic and sustainable textiles, collaborates with indigenous textile artisans.

Alabama Chanin, Florence, Alabama: Slow design, organic fabrics, recycled materials, minimal waste, made by local artisans in Florence, Alabama.

Alder, New York, NY: Part of the Pratt Design Incubator, all made in the U.S., materials sourced locally.

Allison Parris, New York, NY: Recycled materials, end run fabrics, organic silks, made in Manhattan.

Ambika, Catskills, NY: Made from shorn and brushed Angora rabbits on Ambika Conroy’s own rabbit farm in upstate New York.

Auralis Herrero, New York/Puerto Rico: Organic fabrics, promotes sustainable economies in the U.S. and Puerto Rico.

Avery by Wang, Vancouver, Canada: Recently launched, organic cotton, hemp.

Awamaki Lab, New York and Ollantaytambo, Peru: A Peruvian non-profit working with impoverished Quechua women weavers.

Carrie Parry, New York, NY Produced ethically and locally in the New York Garment District, sourcing environmentally conscious materials and textiles supporting artisanal communities worldwide.

Christopher Raeburn, London: Christopher Ræburn has become known for his utilization of re-appropriated military fabrics to create garments that are functional, intelligent and meticulously crafted.

Clary Sage Organics, San Francisco, CA: Clary Sage Organics is committed to using 100% organic or ecologically sustainable products.

Costello Tagliapietra, New York, NY: Uses AirDye waterless technology to create all their prints, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Crop by David Peck, Houston, TX: Manufactured with textiles dyed in the United States and select fabrics imported from fair trade co-operatives in India.

Curator, San Francisco, CA: Made in San Francisco, organic cottons, hemp, minimal waste.

EcoSkin, Los Angeles, CA: EcoSkin uses only environmentally sustainable luxury fabrics woven, dyed and sewn in the U.S.

Eko-Lab, New York, NY: 100% organic materials, natural vegetable dyes, all made locally by New York City artisans.

Elroy, Vancouver, BC: Uses organic cotton, bamboo, tencel, linen, hemp, wild silk, pineapple, wool and upcycled fabrics, manufactured by a small, family-run cottage industry in Indonesia, designed in Canada.

Eva Zingoni, Paris, France: Made in France from recycled materials, limited edition, surplus fabrics from Parisian fashion houses.

Feral Childe, New York City/Oakland, California: Organic textiles, recycled textiles and accessories, made in New York City.

Frei, Chicago: Organic cottons, natural dyes, and locally manufactured textiles.

Gretchen Jones, New York: Sustainable fabrics, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Harricana by Mariouche, Montreal, Canada: Recycled fur, recycled materials.

H Fredriksson, New York, NY: Silk, made in New York City.

Honest By, Antwerp, Belgium: 100% transparent company from production to sales, organic fabric, certified organic wools.

Indigenous, Santa Rosa, CA: organic fabrics, Fair Trade, low impact dyes, free range alpaca.

IOU Project, Tamil Nadu, India: The IOU Project makes unique, handmade, traceable apparel, Fair Trade.

Isoude, Newport, Rhode Island: Made in the U.S.A., silks, hand dyeing.

Juleselin, San Francisco, CA: Created from organic cotton and recycled fabrications, sweatshop free.

Kelly Lane, Pittsburgh, PA: Created from sustainable fabrics, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Koch, Dallas, TX: Sustainable fabrics, made in Dallas and LA.

Lara Miller, Chicago, IL: Multi-functional clothing, organic cottons, hand-loomed bamboo, hemp and vegan silk, made in Chicago.

Lavuk, Los Angeles, CA: Sweatshop free and made locally in Los Angeles with sustainable materials such as organic cotton, tencel, hemp and dead stock silks, multi-functional clothing.

Lina Rennell, Northern California: The Rennell line is an art brand with a heavy focus on original print work, U.S. production, sustainable textiles, craft and high-end tailoring.

Loomstate, New York, NY: Organic cotton, tencel, reduced water consumption, reduced waste, pursuing a closed loop product life cycle.

Loup Charmant, New York, NY: Organic cotton, natural dyes, silks, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Made By, Peruvian Highlands: Eco-friendly Alpaca yarns, hand knit by the local highland Artisans of Peru, Fair Trade, organic colorants.

modaspia, Placerville, CA: Organic fabrics, end run fabrics, made in San Francisco.

Nau, Portland, Oregon: Organic cottons, silks, tencel, recycled materials, cruelty-free wool, partners for change with Ashoka, Ecotrust, Kiva and Mercy Corps.

100% NY, New York, NY: Organic, recycled, and ethical materials, produced entirely in New York.

Organic by John Patrick, New York, NY: Handmade metallic lace, sustainable recycled wool, organic cotton, biodegradable cotton cupro, vegetable-tanned leather, hand-loomed Angora, digitally printed silks,

M. Patmos, New York, NY: Eco-friendly merino wool and alpaca, faux fur made from wool and alpaca, and vegetable tanned leather, handwork techniques from women’s artisan collectives in Nepal and Bolivia, as well as zero-waste seamless knitting technology from Japan.

Portland Pendleton Collection: Portland, Oregon: Pendleton fabrics are woven exclusively in Pendleton’s Northwest Mills and all of the apparel is sourced and produced in the U.S.

Partimi, London: Digitally-printed silks, organic wools, modals, milk fibers, and luxurious cashmere.

Piece x Piece, San Francisco, CA: The fabric used in each piece is selected from a changing stock of luxury discards.

The Podolls, San Francisco, CA: 100% organic Supima Cotton, made in the U.S.

Popomomo, Los Angeles, CA: Organic cottons, Cupro, recycled materials, made in Los Angeles.

Prairie Underground, Seattle, Washington: Organic cotton, hemp, designed and manufactured in the U.S.

Raleigh Denim, Raleigh, NC: Handcrafted denim on vintage machines from the 1920s, sustainable cotton, organic cotton for Fall 12.

RESTORE Clothing, New York, NY: Repreve® Recycled Nylon, made in the New York City Garment District.

Rogan, New York, NY: Silks, organic cotton, alpaca, wool, bamboo, made in the U.S.

Samantha Pleet, New York, NY: Organic cottons, silks, Made in the U.S.

Soham Dave, New York, NY: Soham Dave focuses primarily on using biodegradable fabrics, recycled materials, and hand embroideries.
 

Stewart+Brown, Los Angeles, CA: Organic cotton, organic pima cotton, hemp, surplus fabrics, Mongolian Cashmere produced through a sustainable supply chain, Fair Trade.

Study NY, New York, NY: Organic cotton, linen, recycled materials, zero waste, made in New York.

Suzanne Rae, New York, NY: Silks, organic cottons, other sustainable materials when possible, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Thieves, Toronto, Canada: Soy, hemp, organic cotton, bamboo, Tussah Silk, organic wool, Seacell, tencel.

Titania Inglis, New York, NY: Japanese organic cotton, French vegetable-tanned leather, and dead stock wool from New York’s garment industry, made in New York.

Vaute Couture, New York, NY: Vegan, fair trade.

Did we miss someone? Email amy@ecosalon.com with your tip!

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