A long wait to view the M.Patmos Fall/Winter 2012 collection, but well worth it.

On Thursday night outside Milk Studios, it looked like a scene from the Occupy movement’s Fashion Week spin-off. A long line snaked down 15th Street, filled with high-heeled fashion girls and thick-spectacled fashion boys waiting upwards of an hour in 30-degree weather for entry to the five presentations taking place on the 8th floor: Libertine, John Bartlett, Erickson Beamon, Tim Hamilton Redux, and M.Patmos. From the top of the line, you could hear the rough shouts of security guards yelling at the hordes of people who dared think they could surpass the line. One of the guards, hauling a metal security barrier to block the crowds, shook his head and muttered, “Who are these people?”

I was there for the M.Patmos presentation, and by the time the guards finally let my block in, the show was nearly over. I had a hot second to ogle Marcia Patmos’ artfully crafted collection of knitwear, though, and it left me wanting more.

For Fall/Winter 2012, Patmos was inspired by Edward S. Curtis’s The Women, a book featuring portraits of Native American women at the turn of the 20th century. Patmos incorporated Native American-inspired graphic patterns and traditional Indian trading blankets into a small collection with a mostly black-and-white palette, with pops of red, orange, hot pink, and camel. The luxe materials included eco-friendly merino wool and alpaca, faux fur made from wool and alpaca, and vegetable tanned leather.

In designing the collection, Patmos emphasized a slow fashion approach with multifunctional garments and layering that transcends seasons. Her pieces incorporated handwork techniques from women’s artisan collectives in Nepal and Bolivia, as well as zero-waste seamless knitting technology from Japan. In this line and moving forward, Patmos recognizes the importance of working locally, and has committed herself to producing a larger portion of her garments in the United States and sourcing materials closer to her factories.

Also showcased in the presentation were vegetable tanned leather booties produced in collaboration with Manolo Blahnik and reclaimed wooden jewelry made by TENTHOUSANDTHINGS for M. Patmos, which perfectly complemented the infinitely wearable knits. Below, some of our favorite looks.

Images: Jessica Marati

The post EcoSalon at NYFW: M.Patmos appeared first on EcoSalon.

The balance of sustainable fashion lies within your every purchase.

A year or two ago this article would have been entitled “Fashion Giants Ride Sustainability Wave.” At this stage in the game talking about companies like Wal-Mart, Target, H&M, Gap Inc doing their bit is like greenwashing the chairs on the Titanic. With climate change officially confirmed, fashion companies have an irrefutable responsibility to green their manufacturing and products. But, given the choice, would they?

We often go back and forth discussing the future of the fashion industry here at EcoSalon. I don’t know if the model is broken and needs to be dumped on its stylish head, or if we can fix it with some earnest action and better designed products. Maybe both need to be happening at the same time. You can do both by going ahead and protesting against the concentration of wealth among the privileged few by shopping local fashion from small independent merchants this holiday season, but also check out the fruits of the big brands’ eco initiatives. Their partnerships to minimize energy waste and hazardous chemicals help to encourage eco-fashion at reasonable prices too. Well, some of them.

Here are the latest developments from three of fashion’s well-known brands, Levi’s, Havanianas and Manolo Blahnik.

Levi’s goal is to support the 300 million people currently engaged in cotton farming around the world.

At a cocktail reception last week, Levi Strauss & Co. announced that 2 million pairs of its Denizen and Levi brand jeans now contain a blend of cotton certified by the Better Cotton Initiative. In partnership with other leading brands such as H&M, Adidas, IKEA and organizations like the World Wildlife Fund, Solidaridad and PAN-UK, they’re adhering to the standards of Better Cotton – cotton grown in a way that is less harmful to both the environment and some 40,000 farmers in India, Pakistan, Mali and Brazil. Levi’s executives say their goal is to eventually support the 300 million people engaged in cotton farming around the world.

Sales of Havaianas limited edition “Conservation International” collection have raised approximately $100,000 per year for the Brazilian marine organization.

According to an article in the New York Times yesterday, Havaianas, the Brazilian company that makes about 200 million pairs of flip-flops each year, has just introduced Eco Havaianas that are made from scrap materials incurred during regular production. Other products include Havaianas IPÊ, which designates 7 percent of its revenue for the Institute for Ecological Research in Brazil. Another style, the CI-Brazil, funds projects for the protection of local endangered species and in its first year sold more than 500,000 pairs.

The shoes are sustainable. Is the price?

Fish skin is very much the medium of the moment with Alexander Wang unveiling a collection of sneakers with fish skin detailing for Spring 2012 and Sex in the City favorite, Manolo Blahnik, announcing recently that he was using the “fish leather” in his new range of eco shoes. Made from sustainable tilapia skin, raffia and cork, the collection is part of a collaboration with eco designer Marcia Patmos. Patmos told Womens Wear Daily, “I love the idea of Tilapia skin because it is a by-product of the food industry that would otherwise be discarded, but it’s actually a beautiful material perfect for small leather goods’. The shoes will be sold at Manolo Blahnik shops for $895, WWD reports.

The post Balancing the Benefits of Fashion Greenwashing appeared first on EcoSalon.