Has Melissa earned its eco-friendly reputation?

In the sustainable fashion world, Brazilian shoe brand Melissa has attracted a cult following among women searching for shoes that are stylish, comfortable, and eco-friendly. Not since the jelly shoe craze of the 1980s have shoe fiends embraced PVC footwear with such gusto.

According to its vendors and fans, Melissa shoes are non-toxic, hypo-allergenic, cruelty-free, and vegan. However, little official information exists to back up Melissa’s environmental claims. Does Melissa deserve its eco-friendly reputation?

An investigation into Melissa shoes is actually an investigation into Grendene, the brand’s Brazilian parent company and one of the world’s largest manufacturers of injection-molded plastic footwear. Grendene’s brands include Ipanema, Rider, Grendha, and Melissa, and its thirteen factories employ approximately 20,000 people. The Melissa brand is guided by research-and-development lead Edson Matsuo, and much of its success has come from high-profile collaborations with designers, architects, and celebrities like Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Zaha Hadid, and Gisele Bunchen.

The Good

According to the company’s 2006 annual report, sustainability and innovation are at the heart of Grendene’s operations.

More than a concept, sustainable design is everyday experience instilled into the company’s DNA. Based on the Business-Society-Environment triad, the purpose is to create synergy that all parts of this triad can benefit from.

Grendene states that 99 percent of its industrial residues are recycled, and that other waste is reprocessed, recycled, or disposed of responsibly. According to the report, the company adopts a closed circuit approach to water use, and it has its own onsite sewage treatment systems.

One major way that Grendene embraces sustainability is through its mono-material injection-molding manufacturing process, which results in shoes that are easy to disassemble and recycle. Some Melissa stores host events where customers can bring back old shoes to trade in and recycle.

The Bad

Melissa shoes are made from Melflex, a particular type of PVC which was developed and patented by Grendene. Grendene states that the technology it employs for PVC development is “the most sustainable and ecologically correct in the world market.” But is PVC necessarily a sustainable material?

The opinion is split. Environmental groups like Greenpeace argue that PVC is the most environmentally damaging of all plastics. According to the group, toxic chlorine-based chemicals are released at every stage of PVC’s production, use, and disposal, resulting in health problems like cancer, immune system damage, and hormone disruption. A report from the Global Development and Environment Institute at Tufts University expands on these claims:

PVC poses hazards to human health over the course of its life cycle. PVC production exposes workers and communities to vinyl chloride and other toxic substances. PVC products such as medical equipment and children’s toys can leach toxic additives during their useful life. Vinyl building materials release hydrochloric acid fumes if they catch fire, and burning PVC creates byproducts including dioxin, a potent carcinogen.

Melissa’s website, on the other hand, claims that PVC is “one of the most sustainable thermoplastics available” and that Melflex is “versatile, durable, totally reusable and extremely environmentally friendly.” Grendene’s annual report states that “when disposed of, (PVC shoes) can be entirely recycled, burned for recovery of energy, or even sent to landfills, since they do not contaminate the soils or water tables.”

However, neither Melissa nor Grendene provide any specific information proving that its PVC is less harmful than the types of PVC attacked by environmental groups.

The Questionable 

While Melissa shoes may be cruelty-free and recyclable, they are still made from a material that is synthetic, controversial, and reportedly harmful to the environment. Grendene may claim that its PVC is eco-friendly, but without a public body of evidence, it’s impossible to evaluate if the claim is true or not.

In my opinion, the greatest sustainability element of Melissa shoes is their ability to… well, sustain. EcoSalon’s Editor-in-Chief raves that she has had her Melissas for years, yet they still look like new and retain their distinct bubblegum scent (which we’re guessing doesn’t come from nature). Another friend and EcoSalon contributor has worn her Melissas through nearly a decade of international work and travel.

Melissas are built to last, which is sustainable because it prevents the need for additional shoe purchases. But as for the eco-friendliness of their product lifecycle? Until Melissa and Grendene release more information, we can’t know for sure.

SEE ALSO:

Behind the Label: TOMS’ One for One Campaign

Behind the Label: Puma’s Vision and Clever Little Bag

Behind the Label: Timberland’s CSR After the VF Merger

Read more Behind the Label here.

The post Behind The Label: The Sustainability Claims Behind Melissa Shoes appeared first on EcoSalon.

EcoSalon’s West Coast Fashion Editor Rowena Ritchie shows us how a few key sustainable buys dresses up her $1 thrift store find jumpsuit and takes it from loungy to art deco-inspired 70s glamour.

Ever wondered how our editors channel this season’s trends to complement the favorite pieces in their own wardrobes? Well, look no further. Rowena Ritchie is EcoSalon’s West Coast Fashion Editor and her style is best described as “The Art of the Layer.” It’s starts with sleek basics like skinny pants and fitted tees in matching shades and builds from there. It’s an easy approach that allows her to accessorize with the vintage bits and bobs she’s collected for years – plus it suits the highly changeable San Francisco weather. “When I found this black crepe de chine jumpsuit in the $1 bin at my local thrift store, I knew it was a keeper,” she says. ” I’m drawn to the color black like a vampire to blood and despite my best efforts to lighten up, I’m invariably dressed head-to-toe in it. ”

While this jumpsuit is perfect for lounging, with a few key sustainable buys it will take her from day to night all year round.

Organic by John Patrick Perforated Cardigan Sweater
“I love the perforated detail, which reminds me of snappy golf wear from the 1930s.” It’s also the perfect way to channel summer’s big sportswear trend and still keep the look distinctly feminine. “100% merino wool never lets me down. It lasts forever and never pills or pulls.” It’s made in the USA, and the lemon yellow color is a great way to break away from black.
$280, Beklina

Celeste Printed Silk Peplum Bustier by CrOP by David Peck
“This top is a total splurge, but how cool would this be layered over my jumpsuit?” The peplum is also one of summer’s hottest silhouettes. Throw on some strappy heels and red lipstick and you’ve got a screen siren look with a modern edge.
$385, CrOp by David Peck 

Rachel Comey Macrame Belt
“This belt by Rachel Comey adds flattering definition to the waist and a relaxed 70s feel.” Hand knotted natural cotton macrame with leather worked ends. Belted around around the cardigan, it creates a look that’s smart and comfy at the same time. This is a good piece to keep an eye out for at thrift shops or, if you are the crafty sort, make yourself.
$240, Beklina

Alkemie Phoenix Fan Necklace 
“This Egyptian style Phoenix fan necklace is killer. I’m a big fan of the style of the 30s and 70s and all roads seem to return back to the decorative motifs of those times.” Classically inspired jewelry is definitely making a big comeback, and that one statement piece can really take an outfit to the next level. “The Phoenix is also a symbol of rebirth and the perseverance to rise out of challenging situations, I like that idea.” Handmade in Los Angeles, CA, from 100% reclaimed metal.
$209, Alkemie

Alexandre Herchcovitch X Melissa Patent Troupe Wedge Brogue
“Ever since my trip to Sao Paulo last year, I’ve started a bit of a collection of Melissa‘s rubber shoes. The Brazilian brand’s designer collaborations, like this one with Alexandre Herchcovitch are truly inspired. “They’re great for incorporating a silly pop edge to an otherwise moody look – they’re so wrong that they’re right, If you know what I mean.” We do.
$96.11, Asos 

The post EcoSalon Editor’s Picks: Rowena Ritchie appeared first on EcoSalon.

Get ready for Rio+20 by dressing in these picks from some of Brazil’s top eco-designers.

As Rio+20 – the United Nations Conference on Sustainable Development – kicks off this week, thousands of game changers in the sustainability world will flock to Brazil. We do hope that good things come out of it. The one thing we know for sure is that we want to look the part while discussing how to create the future we all want. What better way to do that than by wearing these picks from some of Brazil’s foremost eco-designers.

Osklen Calca Fem Colour Shine Casual Jeans
These light blue jeans will look great with everything this summer. Pair them with bright colors fun a fun summery vibe or add a flowy white top for a more toned-down look. Oskar Metsavaht, designer of Osklen is one of the most influential voices of Brazilian design and a pioneer of the country’s new luxury movement, using the most innovative high-tech eco-fabrics in his collections. As a long-term environmental thinker, Metsavaht is also the founder of the non-profit e-Institute, dedicated to raising awareness for sustainable human development.
Approx. $194, Osklen

Thin Coconut Bangles by Wild Berry
Handmade by artisans in Brazil, from scrap materials generated in the processing of juices from fruits in the Amazon, these carved coconut bangles are a great addition to your summer wardrobe. Wear them to the beach with a colorful bikini or pair them with a formal dress for one of those summer parties.
$7.99 for a set of three, Wild Berry

Bikini by G Dias Swim
We can’t talk about Brazil and not include a bikini, can we? Local girls seems to live in them and the country does have a high rate of swimsuit models per capita. It seems only fitting that one of them – Gabriela Dias has created her own line, which celebrates the female figure and has both bikinis and one-pieces in vibrant colors with unexpected details. Dias is committed to ecological and social responsibility, and carefully hand-selects all fabrics, and all suits are handmade in Brazil by skilled local artisans in certified facilities.
The Perfect Cup & The Low Riser, G Dias Swim

Osklen Psychedelic Backpack
The backpack is hotter than ever, and what better carry-all to bring with you when exploring all that Rio has to offer (besides high-level UN-discussions). Designed by Oskar Metsavaht of Osklen, this one has a practical, utilitarian shape and a colorful psychedelic pattern that is sure to turn heads.
Approx. $487, Osklen

Melissa + Campana Papel Flats
This latest collaboration between the Campana Brothers and Melissa has double Brazilian appeal as both the famous designer duo and the shoe brand hail from there. The model is inspired by the Campana brothers’ paper creations (“papel” means paper). The bronzy color works with almost everything and looks really great against tan summer skin. Melissa shoes are sustainably crafted in Brazil from MELFLEX, a technologically advanced injected thermoplastic that easily molds to feet for the most comfortable fit around, and they’re totally hypoallergenic, water-resistant and recyclable.
$88, Kaight

Ecotece Butterfly T-shirt
This hand-embroidered T-shirt is made from 50% recycled PET and 50% cotton and features a butterfly patchwork print that is unique for each tee. The Ecotece institute was founded by São Paulo-based journalist Ana Candida Zanesco in an effort to inspire people to dress more consciously. The butterfly represents transformation, the cycles of life and the constant new beginnings. How fitting for a summit on sustainable development.
$47, Ecotece

Ecotece Paste Retece Necklace
Also by Ecotece, this colorful necklace would look great worn to the beach along with a bikini. But, of course, you could also use it to spice of a simple outfit. Made from scrap materials by female artisans who are part of Projecto Retece, a cooperative that provides a safe, sustainable source of income for these women. 100% of proceeds from the sale of this piece goes toward supporting Projecto Retece.
$21, Ecotece

Escama Studio Chica Rosa Pop Top Mini Clutch
This fun mini clutch now comes in a range of new colors, including a delicious bright orange. It’s hand crocheted with over 200 post-consumer recycled pop tops and each piece comes with a hang tag bearing the signature of the person who made it (you can also read more about them on the website). If you would like to send a thank you note, click the email icon and they will translate your message into Portuguese and forward it on. The artists work in co-ops outside of Brasília, Brazil. which offers women and men in the community a means to earn a living wage through handicrafts and provide a setting where friends are made and self-esteem is regained.
$46, Escama Studio

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Nine ways to wear one of spring’s hottest trends: ankle-length pants.

Ankle-length pants have been seen on the runways of fashion darlings like Isabel Marant for a few seasons now. This spring, it’s the hottest pant shape. A definite love-it-or-hate-it trend, ankle-length pants are easy to pull off, if you know how. The secret: picking the right shoes. We’ve done the work for you and found nine cropped pants and shoes that will make each look a home-run. Pair with a simple tee and a cropped jacket or long blazer and you’re wearing the spring trend as it should be.

Red is one of the hottest hues this spring when it comes to pants. Get inspired by Isabel Marant’s latest runway collection and pair your skinny ankle-length jeans with black pointed-toe pumps. It’s a fail-safe look.

Eileen Fisher Organic Stretch Twill Slim Ankle Jean in Saffron, $178, Eileen Fisher / Novacas Vegan Olivia Pump, on sale for $39.99, Moo Shoes

Take a walk on the wild side by pairing cropped cigarette jeans from Edun with cruelty-free vegan loafers in leopard print. All hues of pink – from soft pastel to hot fuchsia – are very on trend for spring.

Cropped Cigarette Jean, $198, Edun / Leopard-print Loafers, on sale for approx. $97, Beyond Skin

Most people will look best in a pair of skinny ankle-length pants, simply because they are more flattering and tend to accentuate the curve of the calves. Play with another of spring’s trends – stripes – in these organic cotton leggings by Feral Childe and pink vegan pinup-style sandals with a striped cork wedge heel.

Feral Childe Organic Cotton Chain Link Legging, on sale for $69, Jute & Jackfruit / Vegan Wedge Pindowns, on sale for $99, Fluevog Shoes

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, prints are huge for spring. Combine these galaxy/flower print cropped pants with yellow strappy sandals by Cri de Coeur and you’ll nail another hot trend – monochrome.

Low-waisted Skinny Pant, on sale for $112.50, Suno NY / Elegance T-strap Vegan Sandals, on sale for $50, Cri de Coeur

Strike the perfect balance between casual cool and street-savvy elegance by pairing Stewart + Brown’s Organic cotton sweats with shiny black rubber platform heels by Melissa. Top it off with a long black blazer and you may just get away with wearing sweat pants to a fancy dinner.

Stewart + Brown Terry Sweat Pants, $133, Stewart + Brown / Melissa Amazonas Platform Sandals, on sale for $67, Tobi

For a more avant-garde take on the ankle-length pant trend, pair these Organic wool trousers by designer Bruno Pieter’s new line Honest By, with a pair of vegan creepers. Keeping the look simple in all black keeps you from looking like a kid who outgrew his pants.

Adjustable Organic Wool Trousers, approx. $608, Honest By / Novacas Vegan Oxfords, $129.95, Compassion Couture

Keep things easy and breezy by pairing loose-fitting cropped pants by Dace with elegant architectural slingback heels. Add a lace top, sand-colored blazer and or loose-knit sweater and you’ll look like the nature-babe you are.

Dace Timothy Pants, on sale for $122.95, Future:Standard/ Clio Ankle Strap Vegan Wedges, $380, Cri de Coeur

If you’re ready to be totally daring with this trend, pair this printed jumpsuit by Edun with a pair of graphic black and white sandals. You’re guaranteed to turn some heads. Chances are, though, that this look will only work on amazonian model types.

Yoruba Print Jumpsuit, $489, Edun / Charm Bib-front Sandal, on sale for $42.50, Cri de Coeur

The post How To Wear It: Ankle-Length Pants appeared first on EcoSalon.

How to knock off Angelina Jolie’s all-black Golden Globes outfit, in true eco-fashion.

While I thought Mrs. Brad Pitt looked absolutely gorgeous in Atelier Versace on the red carpet at the Golden Globes this past weeked (those red lips!), she looked equally radiant wearing a more demure all-black outfit next to Pedro Almodovar at the Golden Globe Awards Foreign-Language Nominee Event in Los Angeles on Saturday. Everything looks sexy on Jolie, but anyone can pull off a tailored  look like this, especially in black. And we know how to do it in true eco-fashion.

Fitted Black Blazer
This black blazer is part of the ULTRA 10, a collection of ten modular and multifunctional pieces by sustainable design collective ULTRA. Made from recycled and natural-blend materials the clothing can be returned to ULTRA for upcycling (you receive a discount on a fresh supply in return). Zip the sleeves off this one and you have a stylish vest.
Price upon request, ULTRA 

Knee-length Tailored Black Dress
This “Ballantine” LBD by Suzabelle is all about perfect fit and unexpected details. We love the neckline, which can magically disappear underneath a dress jacket or shine when the dress is worn by itself. Designed and ethically made in Seattle.
$199, Glamour & Glow

Classic Pointed-Toe Pumps
Melissa Plastic Dreams shoes are made from the company’s special Melflex plastic, which is eco-friendly and won’t (contrary to what you may think) make your feet stinky. I love the pointed toe, 3″ stiletto heel and classic shape of these. The stitched, twisted bow adds a touch of lady-like elegance.
On sale for approx. $65, Miss Matilda’s Boutique 

Chunky Gold Hoops
Jolie chooses not to detract from her outfit (or appearance) by accessorizing too much. Sometimes a simple pair of chunky gold hoops is all you need to complete a look. These, by Amara Gold, are made in the USA from 14k eco-friendly yellow gold.
$250, Amara Gold 

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