Can you really toss your old jeans into your compost pile or is compostable clothing a myth?

Technically, yes you can. However, there is a lot to understand about the constitution of different fibers, how fast they can break down and possible complications when it comes to compostable clothing. Many companies and designers, such as PUMA, Freitag and Linda Loudermilk, have been working on creating fully biodegradable textiles, and some are making headway with increasing the speed at which fibers can break down and add beneficial elements to a compost pile.

First, though, it’s important to understand that only materials made from natural fibers or cellulose are biodegradable. Any oil-based textiles are not compostable, as they will simply not break down like organic matter. Although natural fibers are biodegradable, they often undergo chemically intensive processes to turn them into the clothes we wear. Try to only add textiles that have been naturally dyed and minimally processed to your compost pile to avoid leaching toxic chemicals into your soil.

The following fibers are compostable because they are made from plants:

Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber that takes around 5 months to fully decompose, due to the density of the fiber.

Linen is a rapidly decomposing fiber that will usually break down within a matter of weeks in a hot compost.

Wool is compostable, but often takes even up to year to fully break down.

Hemp is another rapidly decomposing material as it is not highly processed, unlike wool and cotton.

Silk, especially raw silk, is biodegradable, although often too precious to send to the compost pile.

There are several other compostable fibers such as jute, cork, materials made from leaves as well as buttons and embellishments made from seeds, shells, nuts and wood. Shredding your clothes prior to composting them helps speed up the decomposition time rapidly. Also make sure to remove any non-biodegradable embellishments, buttons and hooks (e.g. plastic buttons or metal closures) from the clothing you want to compost. For best results when composting clothing use a hot composting method, and add earthworms to your compost to increase the efficiency of the fiber break down process.

Related on EcoSalon

 Pulling the Wool Off Our Eyes

Strange Things You Can and Can’t Put in the Compost

Why Hemp Fabric Makes Sustainable, Durable and Fabulous Fashion: Fiber Watch

Image: Andrea_R

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We recently had Peter Ingwersen, founder of Noir on record, saying, “Technology will save us all. I think that man-made fibers are truly amazing and will be the new hot thing in eco-materials. We will all need to overcome our prejudice that natural made fibers are more eco-friendly.”

Not to worry, Peter, you know as well as I do that there are mad scientists, I mean pioneers, out there pushing the boundaries for all kinds of fabrics. Take this new one made from tea, of all things.

The fabric is grown in a soup of green tea, sugar and other nutrients, over the course of several days. Bacteria is then added to the solution to produce “long filaments of cellulose that clump together to form thin mats of fabric that float on the top of the mixture. Once dried, this becomes become see-through and similar in appearance to papyrus. However, it can be treated, dyed and molded to produce different textures and effects,” says the UK’s Daily Telegraph.

The project is led by Suzanne Lee, a senior research fellow and designer at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, who has already used the material to make clothes. This has inspired Professor Paul Freemont and Professor Alexander Bismarck, materials experts at Imperial College in London who are furthering research on the fabric “using synthetic biology techniques by introducing the genes needed to produce these cellulose sheets into other bacteria.” More details are outlined on the project’s website, Bio-Couture.

There’s just one problem: While the fabric is extremely tough, apparently it really stinks.

“It doesn’t have a very nice smell at the moment though because it is produced by bacteria, but we are trying to overcome that. There is still some way to go before it can be used as a standard item in the high street,” says Freemont. “These are projects we need to think about because of the impending resource shortages we face and one thing we are not short on is bacteria.”

How refreshing?

Image from Bio-Couture

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Eco-fabrics are touted as being sustainable, strong and the way of the future, but do they have a longer shelf life than non eco-fabrics?

I caught up with seven amazing designers who responded to the question:

Do you think it’s truth or myth that eco-fabrics will last longer than traditional fabrics?

Alabama Chanin

It is myth to believe that we can answer questions of sustainability by placing eco and traditional products into one basket and weighing them. Like people, not all eco-fabrics, or products, are created equal. At the heart of the myth is our desire for an easy answer and, unfortunately, there is no easy answer to be found.

Our job as designers (and consumers) is to research with diligence and apply the results of our diligence to our products (and purchases), thereby creating the most highly sustainable and durable product available on the market today. Given those parameters and working within those guidelines, it is an absolute truth that our eco-fabrics and products will last longer.

In writing this, I am reminded of one of my all-time favorite quotes from famed American interior designer Sister Parish, “(E)ven the simplest wicker basket can become priceless when it is loved and cared for through the generations of a family.”

These generations will provide an answer to the “truth, or myth,” that we have exercised due diligence as designers today.

Loyale

I don’t believe that is true. If you are talking about garment production, many eco-companies create better quality clothing via superior sewing. Hence, the garments will last longer because they are made better. But in contrast, many non eco-fabrics are made with synthetics that will actually outlast natural fibers.

Allison Parris

I think that it depends on which type of eco-fabric you’re talking about. We ended up using a lot of organic silk and cotton in our line, and although they are the obvious choice since the look and quality match that of treated silks/cottons, I think that the “eco-movement” is too relatively new to have overwhelming evidence either way.

I think what the drive to be eco-friendly has instilled in us is a willingness to look at new technology and fibers that were not originally considered for this market. For instance, 50 years ago you needed to line your garments in fragile silk fabric to be in the designer market, but these days the textile industry has made huge advances to the point where fibers from a recycled soda bottle can be woven into a strong satin fabric that feels great against the skin. All of our woven garments have been lined in this recycled PET satin instead of silk, which will in turn give them a far longer life.

Alena Hennessy

Quite simply, I believe that fabrics such as organic cotton twill are more durable and will last longer. The seeds used in organic farming are chosen for their natural hardiness and resistance to pests. The cotton is made without the heavy uses of chemicals, and it has a sturdier, more natural feel. Not only that, but it feels good and is better for your skin, and has also been made with a higher intention and purpose. So all these factors combined to me present a clear-cut choice. Buying organic cotton is a sweeter and smarter investment, for you and for the earth, and it will continue to inspire and implement greener choices in all areas of life, like a stone gathering moss.

Madras 641

In our opinion there’s a great deal of truth in this. Everything has a life cycle and truly only time can tell. But two key points for people to remember are:

1.)  We want to choose fabrics that naturally break down and
2.) We want to look for fabrics that, upon purchase, have had less processing done, which has an impact on the overall quality and life of the item.

Many designers are already using fabrics that are known for durability and long life, such as hemp and others. And, we are consciously researching and wanting to select fabrics that are processed using sustainable methods. We are also looking into lower-impact dyes to minimize the breakdown of conventional fibers. Design decisions like these are all important to the life of our goods.

Consumers play a large role in this, as well. Treatment of the garment matters! Taking proper care of your clothes will help you get lots of extra mileage out of them. Over-washing and certainly dry-cleaning has an impact on the life cycle of any piece of clothing. The way we treat stains, care for and store our garments can add or subtract from the longevity of our clothing.

At M641, we choose to create fashion-forward designs that are also timeless for this very reason. And, really everyone can support their own sustainability efforts by purchasing wardrobe pieces that can be used over multiple seasons. Thus, clothing is less likely to end up in landfills having surpassed ever-changing fads.

Doucette Duvall

We really don’t have the technical experience to answer this question since we do not manufacture “eco-fabric,” however, since we rescue a substantial amount of our goods (and most of those goods were manufactured 20-50 years ago), we can confirm that there is a definitive difference in the quality of fabric.

Premium fabrications, of course, are available today – but at premium prices and in limited quantities. In this regard, our rescues (aka: Doucette Duvall eco-fabrics) surely have a longer (and happier) life.
Spun

As a clothing designer using organic cotton in my pieces, I spend a lot of time discussing the importance of organic cotton versus its conventional counterpart. I find that consumers can easily understand how organically-grown cotton, which is free of pesticides and herbicides, can be a healthier decision for not only them, but farmers and their families.

However, I find that there are misconceptions about the durability of clothing made from organic fabrics versus conventional ones. Some consumers feel that the pesticides and chemicals (such as formaldehyde) used in conventionally-made clothing acts as a protective barrier against numerous washings. Therefore, they feel that conventional clothing is more durable.

This statement is simply not true.

Just as we humans can build up our immune systems to fight against disease and make our bodies stronger, organically grown cotton plants can do the same. We hear time and time again that taking medicines such as antibiotics can hinder our body’s ability to fight disease naturally, often needing us to take stronger medications to fight even the smallest of infections. This is exactly what happens with the cotton plant!

Simply stated, when cotton is grown organically, its fibers grow stronger since it has to defend itself against pests naturally. It is also not weakened by chemicals during the growing process. Clothing made from organic cotton can last longer than conventional, making it not only a great value but yet another reason why choosing organics is a much better decision than conventional cotton.

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