Often advertised as an eco-friendly fabric alternative to many oil-based textiles, the story behind soy fabric is not as peachy green as it may seem. As with any textile, soy fabric has its pros and cons, which are important to understand. So read on and we’ll give you the skinny on soy in this edition of the Fiber Watch series.

The Lowdown

Soy fabric is soft in texture and comparable to silk in the way it drapes. It is also very durable, and lends itself well to many different types of garments or home textiles like sheets. Thick soy fabric has even been proven to be warmer than wool, and definitely warmer than polyester, making it ideal for winter clothing and soft, cozy cover-ups. Soy fabric is also easy to care for, doesn’t wrinkle easily and is often more durable than natural fabrics of the same grade.

How It’s Made

Soy fabric is considered a man-made cellulosic material, meaning that it undergoes chemical manipulation in order to be turned from a plant into a fabric. The extensive production process involves breaking down the proteins in the soybean by exposing them to heat, alkalis or enzymes, after which they are filtered and pushed through a spinneret to separate the fibers into long strands. The fibers are then cross-linked to lengthen them using formaldehyde, which is an irritant that is mutagenic in certain bacterial and animal species and has been classified as a probable human carcinogen.

The Cons

Although the chemicals used in the process are often re-used, making soy fabric production a mostly closed-loop process, factory workers are totally exposed to the detrimental effects of these chemicals, as is the environment. And how many of the chemicals used end up on the wearer’s skin?

The Pros? 

However, soy fabric is made as a by-product of soy foods like tofu and soybean oil, meaning that the waste of the food industry is utilized by the textile industry, and soy is a renewable resource. This may seem like a positive solution considering that soy is used as an ingredient in many of the processed or packaged foods we eat, but no so much so when considering that 80% of it is GMO soy. The plant requires a large amount of water and pesticides for cultivation, although organic soy can successfully be grown on a smaller, more lower-impact scale. Another agricultural and environmental issue with soy production is the amount of rainforest land becoming compromised for the sake of this crop, which is causing massive habitat destruction, food shortages and rapid environmental change. So, soy’s sustainability and whether it is an eco-friendly fabric can vary depending on how the soy itself was grown.

Things That Make You Go Hmmmm…..

The story behind soy fabric is not cut and dry, which is only to be expected in our agriculturally confused age. If you are tempted by the texture and softness of soy fabrics and soy blends, try to look for garments, fabric or yarns (for the knitters among us) that use organic soy. You’ll find it through labels like Xylem (which is also made in the USA) and Intertwined Designs on Etsy, or by buying your own fabric through Eureka Fabrics. Hopefully the story behind soy can soon turn into a more positive one that involves far less GMOs and chemicals.

Main Image courtesy Intertwined Designs; Second Image: beggs; Third image courtesy Scent Station.

Related on EcoSalon:

Biobased Synthetic Textiles: Actually Better or Another Case of Greenwashing?

Are Eco-Fabrics Better Than Conventional Cloth?

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As EcoSalon has reminded readers time and time again since our beginnings five years ago, the days when sustainable fashion was considered a fringe endeavor are long since over.

The UK-based industry body Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF) is perfect example of sustainable fashion, representing 6,000 members in more than 100 countries who are committed to creating beautiful and sustainable designs as a rule, not an exception.

Last week EFF hosted the third installment of the SOURCE Brand Preview, an online social enterprise which aims to be the “world’s leading source of sustainable fashion business intelligence.” By bringing together designers, buyers, press, and stylists in the form of an online (and carbon-free) webinar, SOURCE aims to educate fashion’s key players in order to transform the livelihoods of those working in the textile industry and reduce the environmental impact of the industry altogether.

EcoSalon previewed the collections presented in last week’s online forum and chose four standout designs from the most impressive category: womenswear young brands. We love these collections for their fresh aesthetics and the fact that each has a sustainable ethos underpinning their work.

Treches

The geometric designs of the Berlin-based brand Treches exude the hip vibe of what is currently considered Europe’s coolest city. A big fan of cut-outs, contrasting colors, and clean lines, the brand’s Norwegian born creator says she designs for an urban consumer. The brand uses organic and ethically sourced fabrics exclusively and, in an effort to cut down on waste as their production expands, they save their scraps and discarded fabric to donate to smaller projects.

Atelier Laure Paschoud

Swiss-born designer Laure Paschoud sees fashion not as clothing, but as “a useful and universal art.” Her designs are demarcated by beautiful draping and solid fabrics which help create an overall look that’s feminine with a touch of boyishness. She uses fabrics that are certified organic, fair trade, or recycled and manufactures her pieces in a Bosnian production workshop—run by a Swiss-Bosnian family—as part of an effort to rehabilitate the Eastern European nation and ensure the sustainability of local knowledge.

MuMu Organic

Greek designer Athena Bentila’s MuMu Organic label is inspired by the landscape of the Cyclades islands where she initially created it. The ethereal and colorful pieces are made with certified organic cotton from Fair Trade producers in India and her other fabrics are imported from a Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified factory in Turkey. The water-based prints are based on the environmentally-inspired paintings of Dutch artist Roland Wakker. Perhaps most pertinent though, is that all of MuMu Organic’s clothes are produced locally, providing much needed employment to the struggling Greek economy.

Kampala Fair

As the name might suggest, the clothing, accessories and housewares of Kampala Fair are produced in a workshop in Uganda’s capital city. The modest and flattering cuts of their dresses coupled with vibrant colors and African prints are an effortless standout. Taking the stance that jobs are more important than charity, the aim of the brand is to create sustainable livelihoods for women and provide them with skills to provide for their future.

All images courtesy of designer.

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