Get a local’s insider secrets on how to spend 3 perfect days in Rome!

Rome, the eternal city, never ceases to mystify me with its concealed courtyards and mazes of vine covered passageways revealing 2,000-year-old ruins. Just like its famous recipe for artichokes, Rome is best peeled back layer-by-layer to discover its heart.

For better or worse, modernity has struck and now Rome is divided into two realities. One is a hectic touristic checklist of monuments with lots of standing in line and sweating under the hot Roman sun. Or if you peel back a layer – past the Colosseum, Fontana di Trevi, and the Vactian, you’ll discover the true Rome – as locals know it – and truly savor the sights, flavors, and magic of this glorious city.

First Stop in Rome

When you arrive into Fuimicino Airport, rather than head straight into the center, spend your first night at QC Terme Roma. A mere five minutes from the airport on Via Portuense – an ancient road built in 1^st Century A.D. – all your travel woes will be washed away in this stunning terme and wellness farm. Truly an oasis, this is my go-to first stop into Rome.

Once refreshed, head into the center and check into Small Luxury Hotels of the World Hotel Splendide Royal where you’ll feel like a contessa in a restored 19th-century palace overlooking Villa Borghese.

Day One

Start your morning with a cappuccino al vetro con cacao and cornetto at Bar Barberini on Via Marmorata. Then leisurely walk up Aventino Hill to Villa del Priorato, the headquarters of the Knights of Malta, and peek through a tiny keyhole that reveals one of most surprising views of St. Peter’s Basilica.

Then mosey next door to Giardini di Aranci for more gorgeous views of Rome and the Vatican. Once you exit the garden, take either the stone path to the right down to the Tiber river or walk back down Aventino Hill and head towards Il Campidoglio museum while rounding the Colosseo. You can either then enjoy the museum or walk up the stairs around to Piazza Venezia, the Fori Imperiali and make your way to Portico di Ottavia.

For late lunch, taxi back to Hotel Splendide Royal and treat yourself to fine dining Italian-style at Mirabelle. Dine on the balcony with views of 19th century palaces the likes of Pinciano, Villa Medici and Trinità dei Monti. Let your sommelier choose the Italian wine and definitely try the Sinfonia di pesci crudi (symphony of raw fish) and the lobster gazpacho. A little known fact: Italy has amazing raw fish dishes and both truly were the best I ever had.

After lunch take of one of my favorite strolls through Rome. Start at Palazzo Barberini, make a right onto Via Sistina which brings you to the top of the Spanish Stairs. Keep walking past Villa di Medici on your right where you’ll have a bird’s eye view of Rome’s rooftops and cupolas. Once you reach Casina Valdier in Villa Borguese, stop and have a caffe macchiato on the terrace and enjoy a stunning panorama of Piazza del Popolo.

After a bit of shopping between Via dei Condotti and Via Frattina, make your way back to Via Babuino to Jardin de Russie for a truly Roman experience and refresh with their world-famous artisanal cocktails or a bellini with fresh pressed peach juice.

At sunset, take a seat the Grand Hotel de la Minerve’s roof garden and watch colors change on the rooftops of Rome as the sun goes down. Sip a delicious Hugo spritz cocktail with mint. Then walk across the terrace for dinner with yet more stunning views of Rome. See the moon rise over the Etneral City as you dine on Spaghetti all’ Astice and other specialties on one Rome’s most beautiful rooftops.

For nightlife, head back to Via Babuino to check out what’s happening at the Cortile di Babuino as (almost) nightly they host events – classic movies, drinks, dancing and you’ll rub elbows with an interesting eclectic mix of Romans.

Day Two

In the cool morning, taxi to the entrance to Appia Antica and walk the ancient road to Rome. It’s a magical experience and you’ll feel truly out of time. Treat yourself to a delicious early lunch in an orange grove at Il Giardino di Guilia e Fratelli just off of Appia Antica. Try their delicious contorni (vegetables side dishes) that come from the owner’s garden.

Then taxi back to Piazza Trilussa where you can explore the winding vine-covered passageways of Trastevere and the gorgeous Piazza Santa Maria di Trastevere. Swing by Biscottificio Innocenti and sample brutti ma buoni (good but ugly) cookies on Via della Luce.

Then wind your way to up the stairs from Via Garibaldi to Gianicolo Hill where you will find a gorgeous view of Rome next to the Fontana dell’ Aqua Paola. Continue on to the American Academy in Rome and ring the bell at the gate for entrance into their art gallery. At the Academy’s bar enjoy a pick-me up café shakerato and drink it outside in the gorgeous cortile.

Then (if it’s not already, it must be 5pm somewhere) it’s time for a cocktail at the Palm Court Bar in the famed Hassler hotel above the Spanish Steps. The bar is a wonderful place to mix with Rome’s who’s who and people-watch exceptionally dressed Romans.

Just before sunset head toward Piazza Navona and wind your way through a maze of tiny vicoli (side streets), walk down Via dei Coronari and stop at Gelateria del Teatro for gelato.

Then head towards Castel Sant’ Angelo and watch the sunset over Ponte Sant’ Angelo for an incredible view of the Vatican. Then dine at Da Tonino on Via del Governo Vecchio for a local Roman trattoria experience.  And if you eat meat – order the polpette (meatballs)!

For nightlife make your way to Piazza del Fico for a drink and more people watching. Bar del Fico (which literally means “cool”) is the spot for Rome’s actors and hipster crowd. Or for a quieter night enjoy a nightcap at Piazza del Pantheon and bask in one of my favorite views of Rome at night.

Day Three

Today create your own adventure. No master plan. No map. Let the magic happen. By now, you have a sense of the city and can fill in any gaps of what you still want to experience be it wine, gelato or sightseeing. My suggestion is to wander and meander. Turn down any via or vicolo that looks interesting because this is how you truly discover the hidden treasures of Rome.

A few suggestions to guide you:

For pizza: pop into any forno or panificio that smells delicious or has a long line of Italians. Some of my favorites are Bonci on Via Trionfale, Forno Campo dei Fiore and Panificio Mosca on Via Candia. Ask for what is appena fatto (just made) and be sure to try pizza rosa and pizza bianca. In Italy, the simplest recipes are often the best. For dessert, look for pasticcerias (bakeries) such as Pasticceria Linari and Fonderia. Forno Il Roscoli on Via dei Chiavari also has amazing local sweets such as crostata.

For me, Rome isn’t a city with monuments to check off the “to see” list. Rather, it’s a string of authentic spontaneous experiences waiting to happen that took over 2,000 years to perfect. It’s an invigorating mix of chaos, beauty, and pleasure. Let Rome have its way with you and you’ll forever enchanted by the Eternal City.

More tips for perfect days in Rome:

• Springtime in Rome is wonderful. The ancient monuments are covered in wisteria and the air smells like orange blossoms.
• For a fresh and unique perspective on Rome, renowned watercolor artist Marlene McLoughlin offers tours for small group of art enthusiasts.
• Make dinner reservations as most locals do and you’ll experience an even warmer welcome.
• If you’re traveling by yourself, try social dining with KitchenParty and enjoy an authentic Roman dinner in a private home.
• Rome is seasonal and not all rooftops are open year round. It’s always best to inquire what is open when.
• The American and French Academies in Rome often host interesting events on art and history that are open to the pubic.
• Don’t eat at restaurants who solicit you. But if the ambience is right, definitely get a drink.
• Treat yourself to taxis. The underground and busses can be hot, crowded, smelly and full of pickpockets.
• Jet lagged? Take advantage of the early morning to enjoy Rome without the crowds. Piazza Navona is exceptionally beautiful at sunrise.

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Images of Night view of St. Peters Cathedral, St. Peters Basilica from the Keyhole, Pantheon at night, Outdoor Restaurant in Rome, Casina Valdier via Shutterstock. Other images courtesy of QC Terme Rome, Hotel de Russie and Hotel Splendide Royal and Grand Hotel de Minerve 

The post 3 Perfect Days in Rome appeared first on EcoSalon.

The best of EcoSalon’s stories this week.

When walking is healthy, slimming and free, why does so much of America still see it as…well, pedestrian? (Look, even our own language is prejudiced).  If you’re looking for inspiration to drag your shoes on and get rid of that roof over your head, you might find it here.

France’s farmer’s markets are a timeless feature of the country. Alas, if only that were really true, as it seems Paris’s independent open-air vendors are under siege from wholesalers and internationally-shipped organic foods. Can local farming maintain a hold on the French dinnertable?

If our walking quotes didn’t get your feet twitching, you might be in need of some map decor. Earlier in the week we directed you to some inspiring map art over at Curbly, but if you’re looking for more widespread inspiration, Pinterest is your friend here.

Get in motion, stay in motion – it’s the key to success, happiness and some really terrific photography.

Lastly, spare a thought for the inhabitants of Rome 2,000 years ago – it didn’t matter whether they got out into the fresh air or stayed at home, their environment was out to get them.

The post The Friday 5: Take To The Streets Edition appeared first on EcoSalon.

How in tune were our ancestors with being good stewards of the planet?

Things were better in the old days. People were more in tune with the natural world, the air was cleaner, the land less harassed by our demands upon it. The world was, in short, greener. We’ve all heard it before – but is it true? Of course it is – except when you start looking at the details. Don’t go putting our ancestors up on a pedestal of eco-friendly excellence before you know a little more history.

This week, we go back to Ancient Rome, take a deep breath – and splutter.

Get enough people in one place and air quality is going to take a dive. Get them living in one place and your real problems start. While it’s true that cities of 2,000 years ago lacked the intense urbanization that today crams people together and on top of each other in ways inconceivable to the ancient world, they also lacked our relatively cleaner energy-producing ways. Such was the case with Rome, a city housing not only wood-burning domestic buildings (including an estimated 800+ heated bath-houses) but many craft working industries. Statesman Seneca, the tutor of Emperor Nero, wrote of “the stink, soot and heavy air” hanging over the city, popularly known as gravioris caeli (“heavy heaven”). With air quality came the smells – the stink of garbage, of unrestricted industry (including leather tanning, a process often involving urine) and of poorly treated sewage.

How much have we ecologically evolved over the years?

How did the Romans tackle the problem? Like they tackled most of their other problems – with legislation and construction projects. The sewage designs first laid down by the pre-Roman Etruscan people in 500BC were expanded. The Empire’s Justinian Code laid down the first riparian rights – the legal process of allocation and access to water supplies – and defined both water and air as finite public property to be maintained for the benefit of all. New industrial laws pushed certain crafts to areas where they couldn’t pollute domestic air supplies (including, in one law, the cheesemakers – not so blessed in Roman times, it seems). To take the pressure off the sewage-fouled Tiber, the Romans built extensive aqueduct systems to bring freshwater into the capital.

It’s not known how well this alleviated problems in Rome, but it seems indoor pollution remained an issue right across Italy: the inside of the average Roman building became blackened with soot as time went on, as noted by poet Horatius, and recent analysis of skeletons of people buried by the eruption of Vesuvius show signs of anthracosis. Whether you stayed indoors or outdoors to get your 20,000 liters of air a day, life as an ancient Roman appears to have been hard on the lungs.

Images: kevinpoh and Rilind Hoxha.

The post Ecological Lessons From History: Friends, Romans, Don’t Breathe In appeared first on EcoSalon.

One of the very earliest love letters, from Rome’s Pliny the Younger.

Who better to write the world’s most memorable love letters than the world’s most famous writers? This week the clock gets turned back to AD 100 to discover one of the world’s earliest love letters, courtesy of writer and magistrate Gaius Plinius Caecilius Secundus, better known as Pliny the Younger…

You say that you are feeling my absence very much, and your only comfort when I am not there is to hold my writings in your hand and often put them in my place by your side. I like to think that you miss me and find relief in this sort of consolation. I, too, am always reading your letters, and returning to them again and again as if they were new to me – but this only fans the fire of my longing for you. If your letters are so dear to me, you can imagine how I delight in your company; do write as often as you can, although you give me pleasure mingled with pain.

The object of Pliny’s devotion was his third and most beloved wife Calpurnia – his marriage to her is recorded in the extraordinary collection of letters and written documents he left behind, including his famous account of his father’s ill-fated attempt to rescue victims of the eruption of Vesuvius in AD 79. Without Pliny the Younger’s love of the written word (and a great deal of luck in its successful conveyance to us) we would know a great deal less about Ancient Rome – and it can also be justly said that he was the father of the modern love-letter.

Images: Wolfgang Sauber/Wikimedia Creative Commons and thaumazein.

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