Rosel’s eco-chic, urban knits are informed by American sportswear of the 60s and 70s with an effortlessly Cali-cool take on hip.

“The collection perfectly captures the ease and attitude of So Cal and the perma-chill vibe of the culture that invented laid back,” says Juliane Camposano, the designer behind Rosel. The Brooklyn-based collection features many Southern Californian design influences in its SS12 collection thanks to the designers passion for surfing and her enduring feeling for the casual throw-on separates of American sportswear of the 60s and 70s.

“I like to see my items worn in combination with other brands not as a full outfit,” said Composano. “The pieces are super easy to wear and can be either dressed up for a night out or dressed down for a day at the beach.” It’s a sentiment that has won her a legion of fans for her knitwear line that is both hardworking and fresh. While sporty looks dominated the recent runways at Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone, and Marc by Marc Jacobs, the influence for the line’s Soul Surfer line is pure vintage Cali cool.

In sun drenched hues, the 27 piece collection of dresses, coverups and jumpsuits marks Rosel’s first foray into wovens using organic cotton chambray. For her trademark knits, Composano sourced recycled silk sourced from Japanese organic Peruvian cotton and eco-friendly linen. Effortless separates with an All-American edge, the collection caught the eye of executives at Gap who created a capsule sampling of 12 sustainably-made styles. Look out for the collection currently available at select NYC and LA-based Gap concept stores.

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No, no….things ain’t what they used to be….oil wasted on the ocean and upon our seas…fish full of mercury…oh mercy, mercy me.

The loosely fitted, romantic looks coming down the Spring/Summer 2011 runways were reminiscent of the time that – almost forty years ago – ushered in a new era of soul music. It seems, like Marvin Gaye’s masterpiece, some old ideas are new again because they still resonate. As Motown’s main man asked, What’s Going On?

After a brief flirtation with the Mad Men and women of the 1950s, fashion’s role as a cultural mirror instead reflects the silhouettes and stylings of the 1970s. The parallels between then and now are obvious – concern for the environment, a challenging economy and an unpopular war. It seems the issues are all too sobering to lose us – for more than a Sunday evening – in the façade of full-skirted perfection.

Interestingly, eco-fashion first emerged during this time. As environmental journalist, Lucy Siegle writes, “If we were to do a ‘Who Do You Think You Are?’ of ethical fashion, we’d trace most of its DNA back to the 1970s eco movement; it’s a direct descendant. Back then eco style consisted of a lot of sack and tent-like shifts, woolly leggings and rugged tie-dyed fabrics that were hessian-and hemp-based.” Shapeless and crunchy ethical fashion – What a quaint idea! And some progress – for a change – to feel good about – Right On, Right On.

The era has a wealth of subtler details – forget the stereotypical disco party costume – to incorporate into your look without buying a thing. Layering a sleeveless sweater over a flouncy blouse and defining the waist with a belt is a simple, easy-to-emulate look. Another key is embracing maxi proportions. Choosing a long dress or coat this holiday season, is a guaranteed standout in a sea of short styles.

This revisit isn’t overly ornamental or garish. With a nod to the concurrent trend for sophisticated minimalism, it’s about simplifying the free-flowing silhouettes of the vintage looks. Swap crochet for lace, folksy embroidery for paisley prints, burnt orange earth tones for color-blocked tropical-hues.

These items are great to find by rummaging in your closet or your mom’s, or at thrift and vintage stores. For online, eBay searches under vintage for “Halston,” “Thea Porter,” “Biba“ will turn up some fabulous stuff. Eco designers such as Emily Factor, Azuela, Gretchen Jones and Rosel are doing fluid, 70s reminiscent pieces brilliantly to fill in the bits you can’t get from low impact sources.

Are you ready to hop aboard the soul train to 70s inspired fashions? Or does it feel like nothing more than the relentlessness of the fashion treadmill? Perhaps. But I like to think by engaging in the themes Marvin Gaye soulfully sung to – our awareness, engagement and consciousness – we’ll have a better chance this time around if we’re wearing the romantic, vivacious clothes of the era of great soul.

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Designer Juliane Camposano in a Rosel shrug

Sustainably-designed knitwear isn’t something new, but really fashion-forward knits are.

Rosel designer Juliane Camposano is one of those trendsetting knitwear lines to watch.

Camposano grew up in Northern Germany, on the North Sea, where knits were commonplace garb. She says an additional influence to create came from her Aunt Rosel, a fashion designer and illustrator for a Berlin fashion house in the 30s.

What really interested me about Camposano (besides the fact that she makes a boogie suit) was that she wanted to design a line that didn’t irritate her skin, creating options for people wanting warmth without the itch.

I caught up with Camposano recently. Here’s what she had to say:

How has your quest for skin-sensitive knitwear helped you evolve as a designer?

It has defined me and still does in many ways. Since there are very limited eco-friendly fibers currently on the market I have to work around what’s available which affects how I design the pieces for a collection. The choice of yarn determines the fit of the design. And I also constantly search for the newest and latest eco yarns out there which has turned into the quest to find the latest in yarn technology available. This R&D is something I never thought would influence how and what I design but has become an integral part.

What do you mean by the “creative exploration” influence of your Aunt Rosel?

My great aunt Rosel was an incredibly progressive woman for her generation, a mother of four with a career as a fashion illustrator and designer in pre-war Berlin. The war forced her to relocate to the North Sea shore with her family. I remember spending endless summer days at her house. On Sundays, stores in Germany are closed – time is spent in family circles. Rosel was an amazing hostess, always impeccable in manners and style with large sunglasses and hats, just like Jackie O. Her style was completely effortless. I would spend hours exploring her closet finding gowns, boas, Chanel suits, the most amazing hats and bags. Her incredible ease of style inspires me to this day in my quest to create effortless, comfortable fashion.

60s and 70s lifestyles and values were pretty far ranging. You say you were inspired by them. How? And how does it translate in your designs?

In the 60s and 70s movements, people expressed values that mattered to them: global peace, the sexual revolution, the first green wave. This hippie movement inspired many worldwide to be part of a cause and purpose. In a way we’re reliving history with multiple wars going on and the big green/eco movement inspiring everyone to change their values and lifestyle. That is what inspires me, to be part of this movement, to be able to make a difference with what I do. My designs are inspired by shapes from that era but with a modern twist of sustainable luxury.

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