ColumnQuick tips on how to make bronzer work for you this summer.

I got a letter last week from a High Definition reader, Jessica P. Jessica writes:

“Dear Kristen, I’ve been loving your articles with all the cool makeup how-to’s.  You’ve written about bronzers a few times and I still feel like I don’t really know what I’m doing. I have a medium skin color and some of the bronzers I’ve used seem like they don’t show up at all, others are too orangey and streaky.  Is it best to use a matte, cream or powder.  I’m confused. Please help!”

Jessica, this is definitely not the first time I’ve heard confused over choosing bronzer. Let’s start with texture. Cream bronzer melts into the skin, appearing to give you a glow from within, and can easily be applied with either fingers or a brush.  It’s great for keeping a hydrated, dewy look on the face, but if it’s nearing triple digits, I’d set it with a powder to make sure it doesn’t slip away.

Nearly every makeup line has a powdered bronzer, so that can make it even more confusing to decide which one to choose. These bronzers glide on effortlessly with a brush and have more staying power through hot and humid weather than creams. Depending on how matte the finish, they can also offer a dewy look.  Be careful because they don’t always blend easily and you don’t want to look streaky or overly powdered up.

The Sparkle Factor

The majority of bronzers have some shimmer in them because consumers love their sparkle, even if it’s not always the most flattering look on their faces. Often on photo shoots, I start with a matte bronzer and build in the amount of shimmer over it that feels right for the face I’m working on and the overall makeup look we are going for. More shimmer can be a lot of fun for a candlelit summer soiree, but for a more natural look, like at the workplace, keep the sparkle factor to a minimum.

Truly matte bronzers are few and far between, so if that’s what you are going for, use a foundation about 2-3 shades darker than your skin tone.  The above photo is an example of how I used a warmer, darker foundation shade on this model to create a tanned and sculpted cheekbone.  There’s dewiness to the skin, but it doesn’t come from using shimmer.

Not Faking It

The hue of bronze is where it can get trickier, because “tan” for one person could be a totally different type of shade for another and the goal is having that color look realistic. There are two extremes you never want to touch: a shade that is so orange that it looks as if you are cousins with an ompah loompah and a shade that is so cool and muddy that you looked as if you got some dirt on your face.

You said you have a medium skin tone, and now the question is do you have more golden, olive, or pink undertones? That will help determine the hue of bronzer to use. The best way to see which shade complements you best is to compare swatches of the color on your forearm side by side.  Usually that area is more tan than the face and there you’ll be able to see very clearly which bronzer comes closest to the shade of your natural tan.

Some of my favorites include:

Revolution Organics (cream, slight shimmer)

Josie Maran (cream, no shimmer)

ZuZu Luxe (powder, slight shimmer)

100% Pure (powder, slight shimmer)

Jane Iredale (powder, very shimmery)

Alima Pure (powder, a variety of finishes)

Once you’ve settled on your perfected shade of bronze, refer to the High Definition article Tropical Eyes for the exact application technique.

Thanks for reading and asking such a great question!

Editor’s note: Got a celebrity look you’d like to copy or a trend you’d like to see incorporating healthy, non-toxic makeup? Send your questions to High Definition columnist Kristen Arnett at beauty@ecosalon.com

New York City based Kristen Arnett is an internationally renowned makeup artist and founder of the Green Beauty Team, styling high profile celebrities and runway models as well as a sought after beauty expert, educator and teacher for other makeup artists.

Image: Kate Owen

The post High Definition: A Bronzed Babe appeared first on EcoSalon.

The sun is our friend. Except when it gives us wrinkles. And sun spots. And skin cancer. But of course we love the sun and every wrinkle and blemish it gave us while we kayaked/hiked/skied/biked under its rays. But anyone who has peeled their skin off in black, burnt chunks (welcome to my childhood) knows what a bad burn will do to you. Yep, it ain’t pretty.

So what to do when you want to get a safe, healthy glow? Glows are important to good health – after all, sunlight contains vitamin D. Vitamin D is not present in very many foods, but it is necessary for bone growth and immune function. Apparently, people who are deficient in the D-V have an increased risk of heart attacks.

In the winter, it is impossible to get enough vitamin D from the sun. A little trick from space makes it hard for the sun’s ultraviolet B rays to get through the earth’s atmosphere. So now that it’s summertime, (at least in the Northern Hemisphere,) it’s time to stock up on our glow – carefully.

Spend a Few Minutes in Midday Sun Sans Sunscreen

You may have heard that skin cancer is on the rise. So why the heck would we tell you to stand in the sun without SPF? It’s tanning beds that is to blame for the rise in melanoma. In fact, some experts would tell you, (if you are fair skinned) to spend ten minutes in the midday sun in a tank top and shorts without sunscreen. This will give you enough radiation to produce “about 10,000 international units of vitamin D.” Too worried about burning? Start off slowly – first three minutes, then four, and so on – until you work your way up to ten. If you are elderly or dark-skinned, spend less time. You’ll get a nice, healthy glow and your necessary dose of vitamin D – just be sure to put the hat or sunscreen on after ten minutes.

Mix Up a Homemade Sun Protectant

Not ready to step out in the sun totally free of skin care product? You do need titanium dioxide and/or zinc to protect your skin from too much UVA/UVB rays, and these minerals make up the basis of most sunscreens. But you can spend your few minutes wearing a natural, homemade skin protectant. This oil will not act as a sunscreen, but it will support your skin’s own production of melanin. And its melanin which naturally protects your skin from the sun. Combine one tablespoon sesame oil, one tablespoon kukui seed oil, two tablespoons organic vitamin E, two drops of beta-carotene, and two drops of vitamin D. Mix together and apply to skin.

Now Pick a Non-Toxic Sunscreen

Okay, so you’ve shared your sunscreen-free skin with the sun for a few minutes. Now it’s time to cover up. Naturally, you want to pick a sunscreen that contains as little chemicals as possible. Beware of greenwashing in the sun care industry – a truly organic sunscreen is difficult, as sunscreens need titanium dioxide and zinc to protect your skin. These minerals cannot be classed as USDA organic because they are not grown. So you’re going to want your products to contain as many other organic ingredients as possible. Check out our comprehensive guides to eco-friendly face and body sunscreens here.

Mix Up a Mask of Glow

You’ve spent some time the sun, so now it’s time to naturally reward your skin. Take three tablespoons of organic honey. Carefully pulling your hair back from your face, slather your face with the organic honey for ten minutes. Wash it off with cold water. You may want to consider adding organic egg whites to the mix. Honey and eggs will moisturize and help brighten-up your face.

Choose a Natural Bronzer

Had enough sun for the day? Tarte has a great new product for summer to keep your skin a-glow. Check out Tarte’s Matte Waterproof Mineral Powder Bronze. This product is free of phthalates, parabens, sodium lauryl sulfate and synthetic dyes. It is also cruelty-free. How does it work? I powered it over my nose and cheeks and voila – instant glow. Hey, it beats bravely facing the sun with a timer in one hand and a hat in the other. (Which may or may not have been me, trying to get my ten minutes.)

Image: reebs*

The post Step Right Up for a Natural Summertime Glow appeared first on EcoSalon.