Why are you using, or thinking about using, natural skincare? Is it because you’ve read about all the scary things that could happen if you use toxic cosmetics? That’s not the only reason to steer clear of toxins.

Fear is Not the Answer

Forget scare tactics, fear-mongering, and the C-word. These go against the whole foundation of the health and wellness movement. There are some pretty popular health advocates out there shaking things up and bringing awareness to toxic ingredients in food and cosmetics, and those are good things. But fear should not be the reason for improving your health.

We now know that healthy thoughts play a huge role in not only how we feel, but our overall health. Yes, sometimes fear is a catalyst for change. A trip to the doctor’s office may result in a healthier diet or new exercise plan. A family member getting a scary diagnosis often prompts changes in our own lifestyle. Great, use that if it feels right.

But what about those of you who are on the fence with this whole toxins thing? Maybe you think it is sensationalized or just aren’t that worried about synthetic ingredients in your skincare. Or, maybe, it simply sounds too difficult to make the switch.

While opting for healthy ingredients in cosmetics is one more rung on the wellness ladder, there is another benefit to using natural skincare. And it has nothing to do with potential future diseases or environmental pollution. Natural skincare makes your skin look and feel better.

What’s Really Bothering Your Skin?

Natural skincare is not only healthier for skin, body, and the environment, but also makes your skin happier. Wonder how this can be true? Take a good, honest look at your skin. You’ve found products that work for you, but if you are still seeing breakouts, clogged pores, shiny or dry skin, or sensitivity it is likely due to chemicals in your skincare. It’s true.

I experienced this first hand. A decade ago I described my skin as ultra-sensitive. I only used Cetaphil cleanser and moisturizer. Anything else left my skin red, hot, and irritated. Sounds like super sensitive skin, right?

Then I got into natural skincare and discovered something. My skin wasn’t all that sensitive. It was reacting to the chemicals in mainstream beauty products.

Here’s the deal. Most of us are sensitive to chemical ingredients in one way or another. Whether that looks like acne, dull skin tone, or irritation, synthetic ingredients do not work with our skin the way natural ingredients do.

Take the aforementioned Cetaphil for example. This cleanser (which is made of water, alcohols, SLS, propylene glycol, and parabens) is widely recommended by doctors and dermatologists to treat all skin types, from acne prone to dry or sensitive. And it does seem to abate these skin issues. But you may notice that it stops working over time and your pimples come back. Or your dry or sensitive skin has healed, but you also have clogged pores or waxy feeling complexion. These are reactions to chemical ingredients.

Let’s take a closer look at the ingredients responsible for unhappy skin. Alcohols and harsh cleansing agents (like SLS) are drying. This causes everything from redness and irritation, to acne. Silicones and plasticizers block pores and cause irritation. Even if a product claims to be noncomedogenic (or non-pore clogging) it may still contain these ingredients. Fragrance ingredients are another source of skin irritation. If you look at the list of cosmetic ingredients to avoid, you will notice that most of the ingredients come with a note on allergic reaction or skin irritation.

Why Your Skin Likes Natural Ingredients

Since the skin absorbs a large portion of what is applied to it, it only makes sense that absorbing vitamins and nutrients from natural ingredients is better than toxins. When choosing skincare, consider what the ingredients do for skin and which will benefit you most, then choose products made with those ingredients.

Of course, natural ingredients can irritate skin too. Some essential oils disagree with delicate skin types and others should only to be used when diluted. We are all different and so is our skin. Know which ingredients your skin reacts to and look for those when reading ingredient listings to avoid eruptions or skin problems.

This doesn’t mean there aren’t times when you may need to use a chemical skincare treatment. Some stubborn skin conditions, like cystic acne or psoriasis, may require prescription medication or treatments that include synthetic ingredients. The idea is to tailor your skincare routine to suit your own skin type and issues.

If you are tired of hearing how bad everything is for your health, take a break from the fear mongering and do something good for your skin. Natural ingredients may be the answer to your skin issues, and can make your complexion look and feel better than you ever thought it could.

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The mere mention of skin peels may send most of us running for cover. Especially the sensitive skinned among us. While it may sound like a toxic ingredient nightmare, there is a valid place in the beauty regimen for peels.

The term is unfortunate. Peel sound so…harsh. And yes, chemical acid peels are harsh, causing skin to turn red and peel from the face. They are effective in revealing fresh skin, but continued use can actually weaken and thin the skin, causing irritation, inflammation, and excessive dryness or oiliness. Not good.

Peels are really just another form of exfoliation. We’ve been told that exfoliation is key to healthy, clear skin, which it is, but could we be doing it all wrong? Or at least be doing it better?

Let’s start with why exfoliating is so essential to cooperative skin. Dead skin cells build up on the top layer of skin, trapping oil and debris underneath. This leads to breakouts, sallow complexion, and enhancement of fine lines. It also inhibits the skin’s ability to properly absorb the healthy ingredients in nourishing skincare.

All skin types benefit from exfoliation, not just congested skin. It can be done in different ways, to varying degrees and frequency. So, we’ve established sloughing is indeed a good thing. But as with other beauty rituals, like cleansing for example, could we be doing this whole exfoliating thing wrong?

Granular is the name of the game with most exfoliating products. Salt, sugar, and other particles (ground nut shells and meal, pumice) are used in these products to break up and remove dry, dead skin cells.

No doubt, this abrasive method of exfoliation is effective. But you know how we are chronically talking about inflammation and its link to many health issues, including unhappy skin? This friction could be causing more harm than good for certain skin types. Have we gotten out of hand with our sloughing?

Particles, even the micro-est of the micro, can cause tearing and scratching of the skin. Delicate skin types should avoid abrasive exfoliants, as should those with irritated skin or open sores. Remember to be gentle with granular scrubs and use no more than twice per week.

What’s a delicate skinned gal to do? Men exfoliate their faces when they shave. Should we all go out and buy a Norelco? Hang on just a sec before you delve into your guy’s medicine cabinet.

The latest, greatest exfoliating ingredients are hitting the beauty scene large. True, they are acids, but they are natural fruit acids from apples and pears (malic acid), citrus fruits (citric acid), and grapes (tartaric acid). Fruit enzymes, like papaya and pineapple, are also highly effective skin sloughers. Think of these ripe ingredients as the safe way to peel.

Fruit Acid Skin Peels for Glowing Skin

Tata Harper Resurfacing Mask

La Bella Figura Bio Active Healing Mask

Living Libations Green Papay Lime AHA Mask

Dr. Alkaitis Cellular Repair Mask

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Image of happy apple face via Shutterstock

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Natural. Organic. Green. We are familiar with these monikers. But when searching for safe cosmetics, how do you truly know what is safe and what is not? By learning to identify which cosmetic ingredients to avoid.

Ignore what may be on the front of a product label and get to the real information. The ingredient listing. Even products that say “Natural” or “Organic” sometimes contain nasty toxins detrimental to our health.

Below are the ingredients best avoided in cosmetics and how to easily identify them on a product ingredient listing. Bookmark and save this list so you can refer to it while shopping. And remember, no clear or readily available ingredient listing on the label? Back away from the product.

1. 1,4 Dioxane

Usage: A chemical by-product of ethoxylation, an ingredient processing method used to make petro-ingredients less irritating to skin

Toxicity: Carcinogenic, suspected cardiovascular and blood toxicant, gastrointestinal toxicant, immunotoxicant, kidney toxicant, neurotoxicant, respiratory toxicant, skin toxicant

Found In: Shampoo, facial cleansers, body wash, bubble bath, baby bath, liquid soap

How to ID: Because 1,4 Dioxane is a contaminant produced during the manufacturing process, FDA does not require it to be listed on a product ingredient listing. EWG.org recommends looking for common ingredients which may contain the impurity, identifiable by the prefix or designations of ‘PEG,’ ‘–eth–,’ ‘Polyethylene,’ ‘Polyethylene glycol’ ‘Polyoxyethylene,’ or ‘–oxynol–’ (FDA 2007)

2. DEA, TEA

Usage: Foaming agent

Toxicity: Skin sensitizer, can form carcinogenic compounds when mixed with certain cosmetic ingredients

Found In: Makeup, body wash, shampoo, skincare

How to ID: DEA or Diethanolimine, TEA or Triethanolamine, Cocamide DEA or Cocamide Diethanolimine, Lauramide DEA or Lauramide Diethanolimine, DEA Lauryl Sulphate or Diethanolimine Sulfate, Linoleaide DEA or Linoleaide Diethanolimine, Oleamide DEA or Oleamide Diethanolimine

3. Formaldehyde

Usage: An impurity released by some chemical preservatives

Toxicity: Carcinogenic, skin and lung irritant, gastrointestinal or liver toxicant and neurotoxin

Found In: Nail polish, deodorant, shampoo

How to ID: Formaldehyde, Formalin, Urea, Diazolidinyl urea, Imidazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, Quaternium-15, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, and Sodium hydroxylmethylglycinate

4. Heavy Metals (Metalloestrogens)

Usage: Sweat blocker, colorant, whitener, lightener

Toxicity: Possible carcinogen, developmental and reproductive toxicant, organ system toxicant, allergies and immunotoxicant, bioaccumulation

Found In: Lip products, whitening toothpaste, eyeliner, nail color, foundations, sunscreens, eye shadows, blush, concealer, moisturizers, eye drops

How to ID: Aluminum, Aluminium flake, Aluminum, LB Pigment 5; Pigment metal 1; A 00; A 95; A 995; A 999; AA 1099; AA1199, Lead acetate, Lead flake, Chromium, Thimerosal, Hydrogenated cotton seed oil, Sodium hexametaphosphate

5. Methylisothiazolinone (MIT)

Usage: Preservative

Toxicity: Possible neurotoxin, possible health risks to unborn babies, allergic reactions

Found In: Hair care, body wash, sunscreen, skin care

How to ID: > 3 (2h) -Isothiazolone, 2-Methyl-; Methylchloroisothiazolinone225methylisothiazolinone Solution; 2-Methyl-3 (2h) -Isothiazolone; 2-Methyl-4-Isothiazolin-3-One; 2-Methyl- 3 (2h) -Isothiazolone; 2-Methyl-2h-Isothiazol-3-One; 3 (2h) Isothiazolone, 2methyl; 2-Methyl-3 (2h) -Isothiazolone; 2-Methyl-4-Isothiazolin-3-One

6. Parabens

Usage: Preservative

Toxicity: Found in breast tissue, acts like estrogen in the body, could lead to impaired fertility or fetal development

Found In: Soap, skincare, body care, hair care, toothpaste, deodorant

How to ID: Alkyl parahydroxybenzoate, butylparaben, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparabens

7. Petrolatum

Usage: Emollient or lubricant

Toxicity: Commonly contains impurities linked to cancer

Found In: Skincare, body care, lip balm, makeup

How to ID: Petrolatum, petroleum jelly, mineral oil

8. Phthalates

Usage: Often used as a carrier for synthetic fragrance

Toxicity: Can negatively affect fertility and fetal development, considered a probable carcinogen by the World Health Organizaiton

Found In: Hair spray, lipstick, perfume and nail polish

How to ID: Benzylbutyl phthalate (BzBP), Di-n-butyl phthalate or Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), Diethyl phthalate (DEP), and sometimes Fragrance (though even nontoxic product makers use the term “fragrance” to protect trade formulas)

9. Propylene Glycol

Usage: Helps a product to retain moisture

Toxicity: Penetration enhancer (alters skin structure, allowing other chemicals to more easily enter the system)

Found In: Skincare, hair care, body care, makeup, baby care products, contact lens cleaner

How to ID: Propylene Glycol, Proptylene Glycol, 1,2-Propanediol. Related synthetics: PEG (polyethylene glycol) and PPG (polypropylene glycol)

10. Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate

Usage: Makes a product foamy

Toxicity: Penetration enhancer (alters skin structure, allowing other chemicals to more easily enter the system)

Found In: Shampoo, facial cleansers, body wash, bubble bath, baby bath, toothpaste

How to ID: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate, Anhydrous Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Irium

11. Synthetic Colorants (FD&C colors)

Usage: Coal tar (petroleum) derived and commonly tested on animals due to their carcinogenic properties, used to artificially color a cosmetic product

Toxicity: Can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions

Found In: Shampoo, facial cleansers, body wash, skincare, baby care products, hair care, makeup

How to ID: FD&C or D&C followed by a name and number (FD&C RED NO. 40)

12. Synthetic Fragrances

Usage: Combination of chemical ingredients used to artificially scent a cosmetic product

Toxicity: Can cause allergic reactions, headache, dizziness, and rash (children tend to be particularly sensitive), respiratory distress, and possible effects to reproductive system

Found In: Hair care, skin care, makeup, body care, perfume

How to ID: Fragrance, parfum (It is important to note that the terms “fragrance” or “parfum” sometimes occur on an ingredient listing which contains natural fragrance ingredients and no chemical ingredients. This is most often due to manufacturer trade secret and should be disclosed on the label.)

13. Synthetic Sunscreens

Usage: Provide sun protection

Toxicity: Have been found to mimic estrogen in the body potentially causing hormonal disruption, can also cause skin irritation and easily absorb in to the skin

Found In: Sunscreens, facial moisturizer, lip protection

How to ID: 4-Methyl-Benzylidencamphor (4-MBC), Oxybenzone Benzophenone-3, Octyl-methoyl-cinnamates (OMC), Octyl-Dimethyl-Para-Amino-Benzoic Acid (OD-PABA), Homosalate(HMS)

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There are many more safe cosmetic brands on the market compared to a decade ago. But label reading has not gotten any easier. Time to up your cosmetic ingredient listing translation skills.

“I just love this skincare line, and it’s natural!” How often do you hear this said these days? It is great that more and more people are interested in healthy products. But the sad reality is, many “green” products really aren’t all that healthy. The labels may say it is natural, it may have a few plant ingredients and the name may sound natural, but these things do not mean a product is safe.

That is what we are truly after here. Safe products. Forget natural, even organic. Think healthy, good for you cosmetics. And there is only one way to identify safe products for sure. Read the ingredient listings.

You’ve heard it before, it is important to know what is in your products. But are you often stumped by hard to decipher cosmetics ingredients? They can be difficult to read and some not so clean manufacturers even go out of their way to make harmful ingredients less identifiable. All caps, bold print, and no readily apparent listings are just some of the ways conventional brands make ID-ing nasty ingredients tougher.

It doesn’t have to be that way. You can learn to read ingredient listings, simply and effectively. All you need is a few hot tips and one helpful crib sheet.

7 Steps to Reading Cosmetic Ingredients Listings Like a Pro

1. Like I said above, the terms on the front of a product label often mean very little. Reputable nontoxic brands mean what they say. But you will see everything from “Natural” to “Organic” to “Pure” on products that contain synthetic ingredients. Ignore the front of a product label and turn to the back (or the packaging) and look for an ingredient listing. No listing on the packaging or product? A brand website will sometimes carry ingredient listings. Still can’t find one? Consider it not worth your time and move on.

2. Speaking of ingredient listings on brand websites. Have you ever been searching products and notice all ingredient listings say “Key Ingredients”? Bet they are all healthy looking too, right? Many toxic brands who market themselves as clean will use this tactic to showcase the healthy ingredients they use. The problem is, they are not disclosing all ingredients, so we can’t be sure if it is safe or not. This is always a red flag to me and I assume they are using ingredients they don’t want us to know about.

3. When you do find an ingredient listing, it is important to know how to decode it. Ingredients are listed in order of concentration, from greatest to least. So say a product is aloe based (aloe making up the greatest portion of the product), aloe would be first on the ingredient listing. And so on.

4. Feel like you are reading Greek? Sometimes even natural ingredient names look chemical. Brands who follow the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) labeling standard are required to list ingredients using scientific names. For instance, Jojoba oil would be listed as “Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil”. This can make an ingredient listing look crazy long and hard to read. INCI also requires fragrance from essential oils be listed as “Fragrance” or “Parfum”, which both sound synthetic. Brands using essential oils for fragrance usually note this under the ingredient listing.

5. Of course, you are going to come across indecipherable ingredient names that are not healthy. Take a look at our 11 Toxic Cosmetic Ingredients to Avoid for help in identifying toxins. Bookmark for handy access while shopping.

6. We don’t always have time to peruse each and every label. When in a rush try this tip: Check the first five and last five ingredients on a listing. The first five make up most of the product, the last five are usually fragrance and preservatives. Not foolproof, but if these look clean, it is a fair bet that the product is safe.

7. Organically produced ingredients are healthier than the rest. But the most important first steps are to make sure a product is free from harmful ingredients. A product made with a few organic ingredients can still contain synthetics. Organic labeling for cosmetics is the same as for food: “100% Organic” means a product contains only organically produced ingredients, “Certified Organic” means the product is made of at least 95% organically produced ingredients, “Made with Organic Ingredients” means the product contains at least 70% organically produced ingredients. The remaining 5-30% is what you need to check out.

The long and short of ingredient listing reading is this: Don’t get fooled by natural or organic claims, know what you don’t want in your products, and do your own research. Your health will benefit from it.

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Aveda is a pioneer in the use of natural ingredients – but are all its beauty products created equal?

The history of Aveda is one of sustainability firsts: the first beauty company to use 100% post-consumer recycled PET packaging, the first beauty company to manufacture with 100% certified wind power, the first privately-owned company to sign onto the CERES Principles, a groundbreaking 10-point code of corporate environmental conduct created in 1989.

But despite Aveda’s impressive eco-credentials, the company has its critics, who say that its line of haircare and beauty products isn’t as “natural” as marketing materials imply.

Aveda’s roots lie in the Himalayan region of India, where founder Horst Rechelbacher, a German hairstylist, traveled in the early 1970s. There, Rechelbacher was introduced to ayurvedic practices and developed an intense interest in holistic health and the use of natural, plant-based solutions. When he returned home, he developed a Clove Shampoo and Cherry Almond Bark Conditioner in his kitchen sink, and in 1978, he founded Aveda.

Today, the Aveda brand encompasses hundreds of natural products, including hair care, skin care, cosmetics, and “pure-fume.” The company was acquired by Estée Lauder in 1997 for $300 million, but it continues to operate as a separate entity.

The Good

Our mission at Aveda is to care for the world we live in, from the products we make to the ways in which we give back to society. At Aveda, we strive to set an example for environmental leadership and responsibility, not just in the world of beauty, but around the world.

Aveda doesn’t just talk the talk; it walks the walk too. Over the past decade, Aveda has improved its environmental track record even more, increasing its purchases of organic raw herbal ingredients and organic essential oils from 20-25% of total tonnage to 89-90% of total tonnage. With its Green Ingredient Policy, Aveda aims to incorporate more ingredients that are defined by one or more of the following:

• Sourced from organic, sustainable or renewable plant-based origins
• Represent ecological and cultural diversity by being sourced from different habitats all over the world
• Provide fair compensation to suppliers
• Do not negatively impact the ecosystems from which they are sourced
• Are biodegradable
• Involve environmentally responsible processing
• Are animal friendly 

To implement this policy, Aveda has partnered with the EPEA, an environmental research institute run by Cradle to Cradle co-author Michael Braungart. The company has also embraced other elements of C2C philosophy, which focuses on creating things that are “eco-effective” (good for people and the earth) rather than “eco-efficient (things that are simply less bad). Among Aveda’s fundamental principles are eliminating waste and creating good, using renewable energy, and celebrating diversity. A handful of Aveda products have received Cradle to Cradle^® certification, signaling that they have been created with this rigorous approach to production.

Aveda has also pioneered a new way to trace the ingredients in its supply chain, which it calls Soil to Bottle^SM. Central to Aveda’s sourcing policy is developing long-lasting relationships with suppliers in certain communities, such as Nisarga, a firm based in Maharashtra, India, from which it sources turmeric and amla. Aveda also works with producers to source urukum and babassu from Brazil, argan from Morocco, rose and lavender from Bulgaria, sandalwood from Australia, and cistus from Spain.

The Bad

While Aveda is transparent about where its natural ingredients come from, what about everything else in the bottle? A beautifully designed natural ingredient glossary showcases the nuts, seeds, and herbs used in select Aveda products, but online ingredient lists for individual products are nowhere to be found.

Skin Deep, a cosmetics database run by the Environmental Working Group, has audited a select number of Aveda products, assigning health concern ratings from 1 (low hazard) to 8 (high hazard).

Aveda Control Paste Finishing Paste, which received an 8, was rated as having high health concerns for allergies and immunotoxicity, endocrine disruption, and occupational hazards, among other things. Its ingredient list includes:

Aqueous (Water, Aqua Purificata, Purified) Extracts: Althaea Officinalis (Marshmallow) (Organically Grown), Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Organically Grown), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, (Coconut), PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tribehenin, (Rapeseed), Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, (Coconut), Glycerin, (Coconut), Cetearyl Alcohol (Coconut), Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (Palm), Fragrance (Parfum), Citral, Geraniol, Linalool, Farnesol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Eugenol, Limonene, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Annatto (Cl 75120), Mica, Titanium Dioxide (Cl 77891).

Even products with lower ratings had extensive ingredient lists, like Aveda Shampure Conditioner, which received a 6.

Aqueuos (Water, Aqua Purificata, Purified) Extracts, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Leaf Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearalkonium Chloride, Hydrolyzed Brazil Nut Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Wheat Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Pathenol, Fragrance (Parfum), Cetrimonium Chloride, Distearyldomonium Chloride, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyquaternium-4, Glycerin, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid.

That’s a whole lot of extra ingredients for a product marketed as “pure.” But then, there’s the question of effectiveness: are natural ingredients alone able to achieve the effects that chemical products can? Stylist Manuel Villarreal told the Minnesota Public Radio that his salon recently had to switch from Aveda to other non-natural lines that style and hold better.

“Suddenly you realize [that if] you put in a little bit of chemicals, it works better. You have to go, I guess, to the dark side in order for it to work,” Villarreal told MPR.

The Questionable

Once you start looking closer at the labels, it becomes clear that not all of Aveda’s products are as simple as one might derive from its marketing. But each product has a different intended use, and as a result requires a different chemical makeup and ratio of natural to unnatural ingredients. This is to be expected. But it also means that you can’t assume that Aveda’s emphasis on natural ingredients extends equally across its product line. Some products are going to be more natural than others. To really go “behind the label” on Aveda products, you have to start by actually reading each label. If only Aveda would make that information more readily available to consumers.

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