One of my favorite MKF Fisher books is How to Cook a Wolf. The wolf reference is to hunger. Real hunger. Wolf scratching at the door hunger. It’s about knowing how to feed yourself when it’s cold and dark and the wolf is outside waiting to pounce. It’s about not giving into despair. It’s about celebrating the joy of cooking and eating well, no matter how little you have. MFK Fisher wrote the book during wartime. Such skills are necessary for wartime, or other times of scarcity. But I don’t think we have to be in a war (or even a recession) to learn something about making due with what we have.

You might have days when you have little in the cupboard and want something comforting to eat but have no inclination to go to the store (even though you could). Maybe you’re broke and waiting for the next check. Perhaps you’re snowed in. Maybe you’re suffering from a post-holiday over-indulgence hangover. Whatever the reason, it’s useful to know how to make something from nearly nothing. Stone Soup, if you will.

Here are my two favorite Stone Soups for lean times. It helps if you always have some chicken broth in your freezer, but if you must, you can use canned broth, bouillon, or even water (stir in some miso at the end for flavor, if you have it)

Garlic-Potato Soup

I made this once when I was on an intense deadline and it was super satisfying and took less time than going out. Garnish with fresh herbs and a little plain yogurt if you have them.

2 tablespoons butter

2 large heads of garlic, each clove peeled and sliced thinly

4 cups chicken broth

3 medium potatoes, peeled and diced

Salt and pepper to taste

In a soup pot, warm the butter over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté gently until soft and fragrant but not brown. Add the broth, potatoes, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer until potatoes are tender. Cool slightly and puree using an immersion blender. Or transfer to a regular blender. Taste and correct for salt and pepper.

Rice Porridge

This classic Vietnamese porridge is kitchen alchemy. I learned to make it from Andrea Nguyen’s Into the Vietnamese Kitchen. You can add a poached egg, if you like, for extra nutrition, or even some shredded leftover chicken or other meat. But no need. It’s Stone Soup.

1/2 cup long grain white rice

8 cups chicken broth

3 coins of ginger

Salt to taste

In a heavy-bottomed soup pot, bring the rice, broth, ginger, and salt to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer and cover partially. Cook for about an hour, stirring occasionally, until the rice gives up its starch and starts to melt into the broth. Watch carefully to make sure it doesn’t scorch. Taste and correct for salt. Serve garnished with chopped green onion, if you have some.

Image: Vanessa Barrington

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When cauliflower is in season, as it is this time of year, it’s revelatory. Cruciferous vegetables like cauliflower and broccoli are better when the weather turns chilly because the cold makes them sweeter and more deeply flavored.

People who think broccoli and cauliflower are bitter and stinky may have only eaten them out of season. Sitting on the grocery store shelf doesn’t help these healthful vegetables any, either.

I have a challenge for you: if you think you don’t care for either of these vegetables, go to your local farmers’ market in winter or join a CSA and you might just change your mind – especially if you have a good simple recipe like this one. So cozy during these wet northern California storms.

I became inspired to make mustard seed oil because one of my favorite farmers’ market vendors gave me some mustard seeds she’d hand-harvested from her farm. I had to find a special use for them. Toasted in oil like this, they brown and pop and impart a deep, nutty flavor to the soup, when used as a last-minute garnish.

Curried Cauliflower Soup with Mustard Seed Oil

Serves 4

1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cayenne (depending on its level of heat and your preference)
3 tablespoons olive oil or ghee
1/2 of a large yellow onion, diced
2 celery stalks, diced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 1/2 pounds cauliflower (1 medium to large head)
5 cups chicken or vegetable broth
Salt and freshly ground fresh pepper
4 tablespoons vegetable oil for high heat cooking
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
Fresh lemon juice (optional)
Plain yogurt for serving
Cilantro leaves for serving

In a small, dry skillet, over medium heat, toast the cumin and coriander seeds, shaking the pan often, for 3 to 5 minutes, or until beginning to brown and become fragrant. Remove from pan and cool. In a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle, grind the seeds finely. Stir in the turmeric and cayenne and set aside.

In a large soup pot over medium heat, warm the olive oil or ghee. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and fragrant (about 10 minutes). Add the garlic and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add the spice mixture and cook, stirring for an additional 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant. Add the cauliflower and the broth along with a few pinches of salt and some pepper. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, and then lower heat, cover partially and simmer until the cauliflower is soft, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the mustard seed oil. In a small skillet, over medium -low heat, warm the vegetable oil with the mustard seeds for 4 to 5 minutes. They will brown and begin to pop. Don’t let them burn. Cool and let sit to infuse the oil and then strain before using.

Cool the cooked soup and then puree until smooth. Return to the pot and heat slowly. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper. If you find the soup needs a little acid, add a squeeze or two of lemon juice to taste.

Serve with a drizzle each of yogurt and mustard oil along with a few leaves of fresh cilantro.

Buy local and organic ingredients whenever possible!

Recipe Copyright 2009 Vanessa Barrington

Image: matthewf01

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