How “alternative” is Alternative Apparel?

Alternative Apparel is often marketed as an alternative to mass-market brands – a line of high-quality basics “inspired by and created for free-thinking people everywhere,” with product names like the “V-Gan Organic V-Neck” and the “Eco-Streaky Bellflower Tunic.”

But dig deeper and you’ll find that apart from the earthy branding, there’s not much that’s very “alternative” about Alternative Apparel at all. Between the company’s vague marketing-speak, round-about answers to customer questions, and misleading Social Responsibility page, it’s near impossible to decipher whether the company’s practices are truly better than, well, the alternatives.

Founded in 1995, Alternative Apparel produces casual clothing and accessories with a quality vintage feel. According to its website, each item embodies the company’s “commitment to comfort, craftsmanship, community and authenticity.” Though the company sells online and in stores like Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, and Macy’s, only 5 percent of its sales volume goes directly to consumers, while the remaining 95 percent of product is directed to wholesale/ASI/brand accounts, said founder Greg Alterman in a 2010 interview.

The Good

In 1997, Alternative Apparel launched Alternative Earth, promoted as a sustainable line of products set apart by its “earth-friendly production.” Products in the line are made from organic cotton, recycled polyester, and “man-made fibers derived from sustainable raw materials such as rayon,” and they’re finished with low-impact dyes, natural wash methods, biodegradable fabric softeners, and natural enzymes. A portion of Alternative Earth sales is said to benefit environmental organizations and charities, though no information about that philanthropy is available online.

In the initial press release for the line, Alterman said:

Our philosophy for Alternative Earth is simple: Make a difference with what you wear… Alternative is working to make a difference by enabling our consumer to wear their favorite tees, while being mindful of Mother Earth at the same time.

Alternative Apparel publishes its factory vendor guidelines, which the company says are in line with the Fair Labor Association Workplace Code of Conduct, on its Social Responsibility page. The company states that many of its factories have Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP) certification, and that Alternative Apparel places ethics as a priority in vendor selection:

The first elements we consider when selecting a vendor is their ability to meet our social compliance standards and the quality of their products … Typically, there are only certain geographic areas of the world that can meet our production needs. We head to those areas and search for vendors that exceed our expectations and requirements. If a factory does not meet our social compliance standards from the very beginning, we don’t even consider them. After that, we base or search on the quality of the goods and the efficiency with which they can be produced.

The Bad

While Alternative Apparel’s Social Responsibility page aims to provide information about the company’s sustainability and ethics, the language used is vague at best, and potentially misleading. Take, for example, the information provided about Alternative Earth fabrics. We’re familiar with organic cotton, but what exactly are “Eco-Heather” and “Eco-Fleece”? The product page copy doesn’t reveal much, but when you click on the small Q&A button on some of the product pages, the story starts to unfold.

In the Q&A for the Eco-Heather Slouchy Pullover, for instance, you find that Eco-Heather is a blend of 50% Polyester (6.25% recycled), 38% cotton (6.25% organic), and 12% naturally-occurring rayon. Depending on whether the percentages in parentheses refer to the percentage of each fabric or the percentage of the whole, that’s between 5.475% and 12.5% of the textile that is made from organic or recycled material.

And according to the Q&A for the Color Block Maniac Sweatshirt, Eco-Fleece has a similar make-up: 50% Polyester (6.25% recycled), 46% cotton (6.25% organic), and 4% rayon, for a grand total of 6% to 12.5% organic or recycled material.

So it turns out that these “eco” fabrics are only about 10 percent composed of materials that can be considered environmentally-preferable… and no, we don’t buy the story that rayon is an eco-friendly textile just because it is manufactured from plant fiber.

But at least Alternative Apparel’s cotton products are organic… right?

Q: Is Alternative’s cotton certified organic? A: Yes. Anything in our line stating it is 100% Organic Cotton is certified organic cotton, produced pesticide-free. We keep copies of the organic certificates on file.

A search in Alternative Apparel’s online store, though, reveals that less than ten products are stated as being 100% organic cotton, so really, that answer is misleading. Since only a handful of products state that they are 100% organic cotton, the vast majority of cotton used in Alternative Apparel garments is not organic.

Alternative Apparel’s confusing statements and lack of transparency apply to its production processes as well. In the Q&A for the 3/4-Sleeve Raglan Henley, the simple question, “Where was this manufactured?” received the following round-about response:

Typically, our clothing is made in the United States; however, we cannot guarantee that this shirt will always be made there. Thanks!

Okay. The Social Responsibility page offers slightly more information.

We make our products in locations and factories all over the world, including the United States, Peru, the Dominican Republic, Egypt, Vietnam, Nicaragua, Indonesia and China. All of our Alternative Earth products originate from Peru and the Dominican Republic.

Alternative Apparel assures us, though, that its vendors “pay employees, as a floor, at least the required minimum wage.” But according to the U.S. State Department’s 2009 Country Reports on Human Rights Practices, minimum wages in many of these countries amount to far less than a living wage: about $36-67/month in Vietnam, $60-$123/month in Indonesia, and $136/month in the Dominican Republic.

And although Alternative Apparel assures us that its vendors comply with high ethical standards – “many” are WRAP-certified, after all – the company refuses to share its vendor list or offer information about its sourcing and operations, citing a need for protection.

We have decided not to publish our vendor list to protect ourselves from competitors, not because of any social compliance concerns. We’re proud of the working conditions of our factories, and we are huge advocates for operational transparency. However, we want to protect ourselves from anyone out there who might attempt to go straight to our vendors. We’ve put in enough time with them that we feel strongly that we have the right to protect ourselves in this regard.

It’s an interesting excuse for opaqueness, but we’re not quite sure it’s one we buy.

The Questionable

In its branding and its messaging, Alternative Apparel attempts to position itself as a label for the conscientious consumer. By throwing out grand platitudes like, “We at Alternative take our responsibility to the community seriously,” and, “We can all make a difference with what we wear,” consumers are expected to believe that Alternative Apparel’s actions reflect its words.

However, evidence of Alternative Apparel’s social responsibility is scant, and claims of eco-friendliness amount to little more than greenwashing. A fabric that is composed of 10 percent recycled and organic material can not responsibly be labeled an “eco” fabric. The answer to the question, “Is Alternative’s cotton certified organic?” is “No” if you look at the brand’s entire product line. And tip-toeing around the question of where a particular product is manufactured does not inspire confidence in the ethical nature of the production process.

If Alternative Apparel truly wants to design clothing for “free-thinking people,” it should be prepared when those people ask questions and hold the company accountable for its practices. At the very least, Alternative Apparel should back up its eco-branding with open, honest information about where its products come from.

SEE ALSO:

Behind the Label: H&M’s Conscious Collection

Behind the Label: Levi Strauss’ E-Valuate Program

Behind the Label: TOMS’ One for One Campaign

Behind the Label: Puma’s Vision and Clever Little Bag

Behind the Label: Anthropologie’s Made In Kind

Behind the Label: Is Stella McCartney A Sustainable Brand?

Behind the Label: Tommy Hilfiger’s Promise Collection

Read more Behind the Label here.

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Sustainable style news from EcoSalon’s West Coast Fashion Editor.

Earth Quake – Pendleton’s Portland Collection is shaking up the fashion world, sending seismic waves of inspiration across the local design scene. Take a look at Portland fashion week emerging designer awardee, Amanda Grisham’s label, Grishley. Inspired by Pendleton’s colorful prints, I love her creative graphic color-blocking technique using leatherette strips. We’ll keep you posted on when this hot collection goes on sale – in the meantime, you can keep up to date with all her news and inspirations here.

California DNA –  Another collection to keep in your line of vision is Los Angeles-based Alternative Apparel’s consciously casual Spring 2012 styles. While their website sees the launch of their new cozy holiday collection, an expanded collection, entitled Oasis of Color hit the runway last week at Vibiana, a renovated cathedral in the heart of downtown Los Angeles during LA Fashion Week. Watch Founder Greg Alterman and Design Director Lissa Zwahlen discuss how the Palm Springs desert landscape served as inspiration for the bold hued prints and sun-bleached earth toned palette.

Pop Up Pie – Sustainability’s sweetie pie, actor Adrian Grenier and film and TV producer Peter Glatzer open the doors on Friday to their 2^nd Annual SHFT pop-up shop. Located on LA Brea Avenue for a seven-day run, the mark-shift store will feature eclectic eco items for your home including furniture by designers Samuel Moyer and William Stranger, plus local artwork by 30 artists including Vanessa Prager, Melodie McDaniel, Jeremy and Claire Weiss and MB Boissonnault. And don’t miss the ultimate in eco traveling, the Schwinn Vestige commuter bike made from organic, recyclable flax fiber and coated with water soluble paint.

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Sustainable style news from EcoSalon’s West Coast Fashion Editor.

Modal T— There’s not much point to a t-shirt, environmentally-friendly or not, if it doesn’t hold its shape or last a long time. Jeff Denby, founder of San Francisco based PACT organic underwear, took his considered approach to making undies and applied it to the task of reinventing that other wardrobe essential, the t-shirt. Launching PACT shirts this month with a stellar line of tanks, V-necks, and crew-necks, the secret to Pact’s perfect tees is their proprietary blend of premium organic cotton and super-durable and soft modal. Not only are the subtle design details perfectly placed, but they’re perfectly pitched. For every PACT t-shirt purchased you’ll be making a positive impact on the world. This latest venture will continue PACT’S fundraising efforts to support over 150 artists with disabilities at Oakland’s Creative Growth Art Center.

Chez Borja — For most of us mixing wine with fashion results in taking home a little more fashion than we maybe intended. Luckily for us, Berkeley designer and knitwear extraordinaire, Cari Borja’s recent vacation to the Barolo wine region of Italy simply inspired her to make more gorgeous clothes. Joining her Chez Panisse tribute collection, inspired by her internship in the Chez Panisse kitchen, Borja added a second “pairing” collection of gowns and coats based on her favorite Italian wines to go with the main meal and dessert. Raise a toast to both collections this weekend at a dedicated pop-up store and reception for the designer at The Gardener store on Berkley’s Fourth Street.

Fashion Frenzy – Music and fashion together is always a collaboration worth checking out. Add to that some irresistible sketches of bears, boats and trees and you’ve got a super appealing fashion item to keep you cool all through California’s Indian summer and beyond. Los Angeles’ favorite green lifestyle brand, Alternative Apparel have enlisted A Fine Frenzy’s Alison Sudol to design three limited edition tees for the International Union for Conservation of Nature. Alternative will donate a portion of sales from each tee purchase to the IUCN, for which Alison serves as a goodwill ambassador. To kick off the partnership, catch Sudol at the line’s launch event at their flagship Venice store on August 20th.

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Effortlessly sexy? A thrown together look that can go from day to night?

Tobi’s online eco-boutique has an “Eco-Tobi” which offers lots of looks to choose from, with a healthy amount of sizes left. I love this Alternative Apparel silk and modal cardigan for its sheerness and earthly hue. The only thing I would suggest is to leave the last couple buttons open on the bottom of the cardigan, so you don’t have pulling like in this photo. On sale for $37.

Hard to pull off sheer without something of similar weight underneath. This tissue weight Alternative Apparel racerback tank is perfect and equally slouchy as the cardigan. Not on sale but only $25.

There is a point with slouchiness where you need structure. Though you may not be a fan of skinny jeans or leggings, a pair of these 7 For All Mankind jeans is a nice combo of the two into a jegging of the sort. The length of the cardigan hides your behind if you’re worried about tight jeans (in the wrong places). On sale for $84.

These Melissa wedges lengthen your legs in those skinny jeans and add a lustre with their recycled plastic and woven toe area, bringing your downtown vibe just a little more street cred.

We’ve been going pretty safe up until now, and safe can mean boring if you’re not careful. This is fine if you’re out in the mountains picking apples (wearing worn in flats with this outfit mind you) but let’s make pretend you’re not. This Matt and Nat Studded Envelope Bag is your secret spice. Wear it with or without the chain strap. On sale for $102.

Maybe we should have started with these earrings from DLC Brooklyn. From these simple gold chains drips slouch sexiness from the start, passing into sheer, then structured, studded and shiny. You have lengthened yourself and I bet, are still really comfortable.

I’m imagining you with a windswept up-do like you just got out of bed, soft pink lips and rosy cheeks. I can’t stop looking at you and neither will the handsome men who pass.

Go get em girl.

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While some sites carry tried and true lines we’ve been following for years, others are peddling cutting edge sustainable fashion – making conscious consumption more provocative than ever.

Here’s a list of what I consider the top 10 eco boutiques. Have at ’em!

Beklina

I just can’t convey how much I love this site, from the photos to the clothes. Always clean and easy to navigate, Beklina loves their indie designers and is willing to experiment with styles other boutiques are hesitant to try.

Love the Lina Rennell and Mociun offerings as well as these vegan moccasins by Manimal.

Beklina’s site says “Our fashion is modern organic, reflecting Northern California’s grace and beauty,” says Beklina, who believes clothing and design can be “precious, radical, nurturing, healing and wonderful.”

Guess it’s working cause whenever I go to their site, I’m instantly happy.

Embodies

I met Embodies owner Kenlynn Wilson last year at a trade show in New York. I could tell by the look in her eye she was the real deal when it came to being serious about eco.

She bases her criteria on a few things: What fabrics are used in the clothing, where the items are manufactured (and under what conditions), what types of dyes are used in the clothing as well as the packaging the clothes are being shipped in. Curating with a careful eye, Wilson’s due diligence yields a great stable of fashion-forward eco-designers.

Look for Alabama Chanin, Calleen Cordero cuff bracelets and select Linda Loudermilk.

Greenloop

Besides running a fabulous online boutique, Greenloop owner Aysia Wright is commonly used as a resource for both designers and the eco-community. She’s everywhere.

Having just wrapped up her Project Green Search in L.A., Wright’s returned to her home base of Portland, Oregon where she recently moved the brick and mortar Greenloop inside Seven Planet.

Check out the site for a veritable who’s who of eco-designers including Del Forte denim, Charmone shoes (crazy close-outs on them as I write) and Loomstate.

Arboretum

Guided by William McDonough and Michael Braungart’s Hannover Principles on our inter-dependence on nature, Arboretum owners Kate Morison and Andrea Barrett have created their own eco-study of beautiful designed clothing and accessories to show us.

Both women hail from Sonoma County where, they say a connection with the land is a part of their everyday life.
“From the rugged coastline to the majestic redwoods, we have drawn vast inspiration from our environment. Our inspiration and shared vision led us to build an Arboretum.”

Love their picks of Stewart and Brown, Rag & Bone and Prairie Underground.

Clary Sage Organics

After a busy day wearing my blogger and retailer hats, I want to slip on lounging wear with comfort and ease.

Clary Sage is my go to brand for comfy but stylish yoga pants, camisole tops and my very favorite, Convertible Wrap (feels delicious).

In addition to their own line, they have an “After Yoga” section with easy slip on skirts, tunic t-shirts and go-to hoodies.

Just when you thought you were completely satisfied with their clothing selections, they offer a great range of Lotions and Potions including my favorite body care line, Farmaesthetics and perfumes by Tsi~La (Ylang Ylang is mmm…). Search the site for your own new favorites.

Kaight

Kate Macgregor, the founder and owner of Kaight has carefully edited her boutique for men and women that dig clothing and accessories “thoughtfully designed” with organic and sustainable textiles.

Like most of the eco-boutiques listed here, Kaight specializes in emerging and independent designers who use organic, recycled and sustainable materials.

Love their Ashley Watson bags, Melissa Shoe selection as well as Dream & Awake vintage dresses.

Tobi

In addition to their traditional shopping, Tobi offers an Eco-Tobi site which I hope continues to grow.

If you can’t get to the actual brick and mortar shop in San Francisco, their 1-to-1 shopping experience can be had onlinewhich involves live chat with one of the owners to get style advice or sizing questions answered before you buy.

Lots of great natural body and hair care lines including Pangea, Hamadi and Pure Fiji as well as basics from Alternative Apparel and tried and true lines by Edun, Prairie Underground and Stewart and Brown.

Jessa Brinkmeyer, owner of Pivot

Pivot
This Chicago-based online boutique is run by Jessa Brinkmeyer on the premise that being eco doesn’t have to be overwhelming.

Brinkmeyer says “A big part of building an eco-smart wardrobe is finding pieces you can keep and love.”

Very true. By picking even one sustainably designed article of clothing from Pivot, you’ve in fact begun your journey.
You might want to start with a great fitting She-Bible cardigan or Lara Miller sweater that will stylishly last you for years.

Sodafine

Sodafine has got to be one of the sweetest shops going.

Based in Brooklyn, the boutique’s owner Erin Weckerle focuses her buying on “innovative and unique handmade clothing, accessories and gift items.”

Weckerle also carries a selective collection of vintage clothing, (I recently was gifted a beautiful vintage slip from a friend who stopped in there) as well as lines utilizing eco-friendly fabrics and sustainable labor practices.

The site says “Many of the items you’ll find at Sodafine are made by individuals who call themselves artists and see their production of clothing/accessories as just one facet of their artistic process”¦We are eager to assist young artists and craftspeople with information(and inspiration) for marketing their wares. We intend to provide an interesting model of the intersection of art, craft, and fashion at work in everyday life.”

And they have.

Check out great pieces from Feral Childe, Popomomo as well as Sodafine’s own in-house line.

Kind

Kind states that their boutique is for “Living happy, living gently,” which makes me love them all the more.

Mixing sustainably designed as well as vintage finds with things for your nest, Kind is a one-stop shop with quality pieces, consciously handpicked to really reflect their store.

Check out clothing by Mika Machida and Nixxi as well as shoes by Neuaura and Olsen Haus.

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