Are biobased synthetics environmentally sound or just as bad as their petrochemical alternatives?

How cool would it be if cities could produce polyester from their own biofuel made from residents’ food waste? What if large companies could begin to implement systems that managed entire supply chains, ensuring a clean and fairly produced textile? What if we could develop schemes where we could always recycle or easily compost anything we produce, and eliminate landfills?

Biobased synthetic textiles like Tencel, Modal, and corn and soy fabrics have become a heavily invested area of research and development in modern textile experimentation in the more than $400 billion textile industry. Recent technologies have provided a platform for manipulation of natural plant matter, producing engineered textiles that are essentially considered “natural” as they are derived from plants. This chemical manipulation has allowed fiber and textile producers to come up with amazing, high performance materials that are especially sought after by the sportswear and outerwear industries. Although made from the fiber of trees and plants, can these manipulated textiles really be considered natural?

Scientists and developers at various fiber producing companies have been experimenting with manmade fibers made from cellulose since 1980. Cellulose is an organic compound that makes up 33 percent of all plant matter, and is commercially derived from natural sources such as wood and cotton. Manmade cellulose fibers are usually spun and woven into the fabrics commonly known as rayon viscose, however, the chemical processing used to produce conventional rayon is very energy intensive and wasteful. Often made from bamboo nowadays, rayon viscose manufacturing consists of a process using approximately 13 toxic chemical solvents, as verified by reports from SRI Consulting for the chemical industry.

However, scientists have come up with a different method of cellulose textile production. Currently, cellulosic raw materials such as eucalyptus wood, beech wood, corn, hemp, flax and even nettles, are undergoing lab experiments for genetic manipulation and nanotechnology. This means that these plant fibers are changed at a microscopic scale, which allows them to be engineered for high-performance qualities. Various, proprietary production methods for these cellulose fibers have been developed in the last 10 years, which integrate low-impact practices. For example, the production of Lenzing’s Tencel fiber leaches no toxic chemicals into the air or water, and re-uses 99.5 percent of the solvent needed for processing the fiber into a spinnable form.

Tencel, Modal, and Ingeo textiles all belong to the manmade cellulosics group, and have been showing up on the clothing tags at several brand-name stores. These fibers are often spun with other natural fibers like cotton or silk to produce some of the most comfortable and wearable fabrics. Although environmentally sound production processes have been developed, the main issue with these fibers is the land and resources necessary for growing raw material crops. The use of pesticides, water, and energy, along with  soil erosion for cultivation are also issues that can negate positive impacts of a ‘natural’ material. The long supply chain of yarn-spinning, knitting, weaving, dying and garment making that follows fiber production also complicates and effaces much of the sustainability efforts practiced in fiber production, as do the effects of consumer use through washing and wear. Cellulose fabrics do not always accept dyes well, necessitating possible use of harmful chemicals, complicating matters even further.

Another revolutionary, manmade material is plant-based PET, which is a type of polyester. Polyester is conventionally made through refining oil and natural gas but Japanese company Toray has developed a method for producing the fiber from biofuel rather than crude oil. Conventional polyester contains phthalates, or chemicals used to make plastic more flexible, which can leach into our bodies through our skin. Phthalates have been proven to disrupt the normal functioning of reproductive organs, which can lead to early breast development, testicular atrophy and reduced sperm counts.  Toray has worked with biofuel producer Gevo to develop the fiber, which reportedly is made with ethanol derived from sugar cane. Crop cultivation and land management also become issues with this process, although the reduced amount of oil drilling and chemical intensive processing is a great step forward.

There is no doubt that biobased synthetics are more environmentally sound than their petrochemical alternatives. However, unless they prove to be solutions that create new, closed-loop systems for the production of textiles, they only become processes that make a slightly smaller negative impact than our current ones. Instead of growing acre upon acre of sugar cane or corn for ethanol production, engineering and technology could help create solutions that utilize our waste as a resource.

Image: Lenzing AG

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Consumers are finally pushing back against wasteful packaging, forcing companies to get creative in a way that’s boosting new, sustainable industries.

The other day my roommate brought home a couple of bacon-wrapped fillets for dinner. When it came time to throw them on the grill, I was shocked to find the meat duo ensconced in a horrible, rigid plastic blister pack. You know, the type normally reserved for electronics that usually results in a lot of swearing and brandishing of a kitchen knife? All for two, teeny little steaks.

Encouragingly, not all manufacturers are content to hand over pounds of unnecessary trash for you to figure out how to recycle. Over the past decade, companies have begun to realize that wasteful packaging is costly, and as consumers become more eco-aware, a strike against their brand. Some, like Dell, Coke, and Puma, are embracing alternative packaging materials that just a few years ago might have seemed like a joke. The result is a drastic reduction in waste, marketing clout, and the invigoration of low-impact industries.

1. Bioplastics and Biodegradable Plastics

The worst thing about petroleum-based plastic products and packaging is that it can take thousands of years to degrade in a landfill, all the while leaching toxic chemicals into the soil and water table. Biodegradable plastics are designed to break down much faster, and, assuming they’re made from friendlier ingredients, do so without poisoning the planet. Biodegradable plastics are susceptible to degradation by microorganisms, which is different from other forms of degradation, such as photo-degradation (from exposure to sunlight) and oxo-degradation (from exposure to high temperature and humidity).

Bioplastic, often confused for biodegradable plastic, is slightly different. Bio-based plastics are made wholly from renewable resources, such as cellulose, vegetable oils, sugar or starch. Wood, corn, potato, wheat, tapioca, and rice are some of the sources of resin for bio-based plastics. Bio-based plastics are not automatically bio-degradable, but can be so designed. This lower-impact material has been embraced by Coke and other beverage brands.

2. Mushroom Packaging

A New York company called Ecovative Design is responsible for re-introducing America to the magic of mushrooms–but not the hallucination-inducing kind. The company “grows” its Mushroom Packaging (pictured, top) using mycelium, a fungal network of threadlike cells. This mycelium grows around agricultural by-products like buckwheat husks, oat hulls, or cotton burrs. In 5 – 7 days, in the dark, with no watering, and no petrochemical inputs, the mycelium envelops the by-products, binding them into a strong and beautiful packaging material. This unique, compostable packaging material is already being used by Dell, Steelcase, and the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

3. Reuseable Packaging

It’s no accident that ‘reduce’ and ‘reuse’ come before ‘recycle’ in the list of eco-friendly actions. The most eco-friendly form of packaging is that which never exists in the first place. Puma demonstrated a brilliant application of this concept with its “Clever Little Bag”. The redesigned shoe box has no tissue paper, zero laminated printing, takes up less space than a traditional shoe box, and weighs significantly less when shipping. It’s house in a non-woven satchel that provides a handle for carrying the box home, and can then be reused indefinitely. A friend of mine actually uses hers to carry her mat shoes to kickboxing class, but it could just as easily double as a shopping bag or wine carrier.




Images: ecovative | 17Drew

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INCycle by PUMA is a collection of biodegradable and fully recyclable apparel, footwear and accessories.

Sportswear label PUMA launched its new collection of cradle-to-cradle certified apparel, footwear and accessories last month. Having debuted the collection last fall, the company is glad to announce that the INCycle collection is now available through PUMA’s  online shop, and has already hit several retail stores worldwide.

The C2C philosophy is based on the vision of a world where nothing that is produced releases hazardous materials into the environment, nor ends up in landfills or incinerators. The concept of C2C involves the design and production of goods that can be composted or recycled, alongside production processes that have no environmental impact, and are able to recycle resources. Although several industries are far from this ideal scenario, PUMA is definitely taking a step in this direction and setting a higher standard for large apparel companies.

As part of the PPR Luxury Group, PUMA has become one of the mainstream brands that is actively trying to reduce their negative environmental footprint and increase their positive environmental footprint. Collaboration with C2C experts at the EPEA kickstarted PUMA’s new environmental strategy, which PUMA says, is only the beginning. The INCycle products meet the criteria for the C2C “BASIC” program, but the company aims to develop more sustainable products. As a bonus and motivational message to other brands, the designs of the INCycle collection have actually created profits rather than losses for the company.

The new INCycle collection contains both biodegradable and recyclable items. The fully compostable items include the Basket Tee and Logo T-Shirt, made from organic jersey cotton. The Basket Sneakers are the most interesting item in the collection, with uppers made from a blend of organic cotton and linen, and the soles made from a newly introduced biodegradable plastic called APINATbio. The material is made out of thermoplastic compounds, and is easily shredded into small components and composted or recycled into new items.

The recyclable INCycle products are not as innovative as the Basket Sneaker, but have been launched in conjunction with PUMA’s Bring Me Back program that allows customers to return recyclable items to the manufacturer. Made out of fully recyclable PET plastic, the Track Jacket, Track Pants, Backpack and Sports Bag are designed to be entirely recyclable, with everything down to the zippers made of materials that can be re-used. All of these items can be broken down into polyester granulate for use as raw fiber for new products.

Check out the collection online or visit your closest PUMA store for a first-hand experience. PUMA’s Bring Me Back program has been launched in collaboration with global recycling company I:CO, which has been installing in-store composting and recycling bins to take back unwanted or used INCycle items. In fact, items from any of I:CO’s member companies can be placed in the bins, including the likes of Adidas, Carhartt, H&M, Esprit, Foot Locker and Volcom. As a perk for the recycler, every kilogram of apparel or every pair of shoes returned will earn you a voucher for 10 percent off your next purchase at any of the participating labels!

Images: PUMA

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Beautifully biodegradable, this bamboo duo is an eco-conscious upgrade for your desktop.

Plastic-not-so-fantastic. This bamboo keyboard and mouse is marvelously sustainable, recyclable, naturally lightweight, tough and water-resistant.

It also looks damn cool. With emission-free production and no waste, its smooth, warm texture and lovely grain make these über-green accessories seriously strokeable.

Made by US company Impecca, the keyboard connects via USB port and is compatible with most Windows systems (2000/XP/Vista/7) as well as Mac, and costs $79.95 (the wireless combo is $99.95), and comes in four colors. Computer not included.

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Saucy spaghetti anyone? This naughty housewares collection begs a second serving.  

Woman-owned and operated housewares purveyor Dupenny was founded by a cheeky English lass named Emily Dupen-Hopkins. She creates glamour gardens (plus the occasional English one) and sex pots for walls in kitchens out of her studio by the sea: the arty design den of Brighton, UK specifically.

Emily’s elegant 1920’s inspired wallpaper, bone china ceramics and sexy aprons epitomize the vintage pin-up girl, while embracing the uncompromising femininity of modern-day burlesque performance. Granted, half naked housewives finding euphoria in mundane chores like ironing does harken back to a certain feminine mystique, Dupenny’s designs are less about making statements and more about cheekiness on demand and without apology. Dupenny relies on traditional printing methods and manufacturing techniques without mass producing. They also use sustainable materials and packaging and sell in UK-based and local shops, though they do have an online shop for custom shipping to international customers.

Hand screen-printed aprons are made with water-based inks on heavy-weight cotton.

Tea and crumpets with the “Victoria Fancy” throw pillow. 

The “Betsy Battenburg” tea towel on white Linen Union fabric, hand screen-printed using water-based inks.

You dirty dog! Phone-a-spanking art print on FSC certified paper.

Thelma sure knows her way around a Hoover. One heck of a greeting card printed on FSC certified paper in a biodegradable sleeve.

Dupenny was founded in 2009 by Emily Dupen-Hopkins and is based in Brighton, UK. The company’s art prints are environmentally friendly, printed in the UK using water-based inks.

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An eco-friendly alternative for your picnic needs.

Peeved at the thought of filling a landfill with plastic picnicware? Fear no more. Aspenware, Inc., a Lumby, British Columbia-based company, produces a line of all natural, ergonomically-designed, compostable wooden forks, soup spoons, knives and spoons designed to take the sting out of “disposable.”

The lightweight, yet strong utensils are manufactured from fast-growing but “short-lived” trees harvested near the end of their lifespan. The packaging, produced from 100 percent plant and wood fiber, is also compostable. After your next barbecue or birthday party, just throw the used utensils on the compost pile and smile. Cleanup is done.

Look for Lustables daily at EcoSalon. 100% gorgeous green finds, and never sponsored. Submit your favorite to tips@ecosalon.com

Image: Aspenware

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Great acoustics (without the radiation).  

These ear buds rely on the natural acoustics of wood to deliver body, balance, and quality straight to your ears, while also removing any worry of radiation. How? The concern about cancer and cell phones has to do with how the soft tissues in the brain absorb RF energy and electromagnetic fields (EMF). The RF3 Live headset blocks RF energy and EMF by emitting sound through an air tube, kind of like a stethoscope.

Made from natural, biodegradable and recycled materials, they retail for about $70.

Look for Lustables daily at EcoSalon. 100% gorgeous green finds, and never sponsored. Submit your favorite to tips@ecosalon.com

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If you’re going to scoop the poop, you might as well do it with style.

The nice thing about babies is that your poop collection duties eventually halt. With dogs, on the other hand, you’ve got a long walk ahead. Treat yourself, your dog and the planet with dignity by investing in these strong, eco friendly, 100% biodegradable poop bags from MetroPaws. Retail price, $9.

Look for Lustables daily at EcoSalon. 100% gorgeous green finds, and never sponsored. Submit your favorite to tips@ecosalon.com

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100% biodegradable belts in a slim cut we can’t help but lust over.

Summer time is a season when we indulge in color, and what better way than with these Tie-Up Belts made in Italy?

The belts come in Basic, Slim Cut, Kids as well as a Biodegradable version called Bioplastic, and are customizable by using the vast range of available colors and patterns available on the site.

We love the fact that you can tie one on and bring a little pop to an otherwise bland outfit.

Look for Lustables daily at EcoSalon. 100% gorgeous green finds, and never sponsored. Submit your favorite to tips@ecosalon.com

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The supple and biodegradable Wasara series is made from reed, bamboo and sugarcane waste.

If a Communion wafer mated with a tulip, their love child would probably look a lot like a Wasara. Such corporal relations are unlikely, but so is the Wasara, a biodegradable series of single-use dinnerware made from reed, bamboo and bagasse pulp (the waste produced from sugarcanes).

Like my Sunday risotto is to a Nigirizushi at Nobu, my words are far too clumsy to capture the subtleties and nuances of Shinichiro Ogata’s design. I’ll leave it to the company to explain:

“Wasara’s elegant flowing forms will accentuate the delicacy of the cuisine choreographing the graceful movements on those who hold them.”

Based on today’s exchange rates, an order of 8 plates costs up to $14. The company is donating a portion of their sales to Red Cross Japan to aid in the ongoing Tsunami recovery.

Look for Lustables daily at EcoSalon. 100% gorgeous green finds, and never sponsored. Submit your favorite to tips@ecosalon.com

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