With the growth of eco and ethical fashion around the world, designers from Down Under are getting in on the act.

The fashion industry in Australia might be small, but it is fast becoming an industry that supports sustainability and brings social issues to the forefront of style. The government funded initiative Ethical Clothing Australia and the 1 Million Women campaign, have certainly helped to influence this movement, but much of it is being driven by designers themselves. Being on the underside of the world, designers may be a season behind the northern hemisphere, but one area they are not behind in, is greening progressive and forward-thinking fashion.

Here are the top 5 Aussie eco labels to watch.

Bassike

Deborah and Mary Lou, two friends with already impressive careers in the Australian fashion industry, started Bassike in 2006, with the main goal being to create wardrobe staples that had longevity, using quality sustainable fabrics. Their original range was a simple and stylish lineup of organic t-shirts, but it soon expanded into denim and has now branched out into men’s and women’s ready to wear collections. Most recently they launched a Bassike eyewear line. The label appeals to those who love an easygoing style and pays homage to the Aussie beach culture, with its loose fitting tees and effortless casual vibe. It is currently stocked in over 90 premium stores around the world, including in the USA.

Sosume

Sosume hails from Australia’s unofficial style capital, Melbourne, and refers to itself as a brand with a conscience. The ethos behind the label is to transcend “fast fashion culture” and create long standing, timeless pieces, which will carry through more than one season. Made from only the finest eco friendly fabrics sourced from environmentally responsible mills, Sosume aims to select materials and methods with the least environmental impact. One  example of how they support important social issues, is through their recent launch of an eco friendly women’s tee, with 100% of the profits of the sale of the item, going to support depression research.

Elsom

Launched in Sydney in 2006, Elsom fulfills designer Sam Elsom’s vision to make high quality, timeless, sustainable products that reflect a strong commitment to detail and traditional tailoring. Elsom values traditional hand tailoring as an integral part of the design process, using materials sourced from all over the world. Being a huge supporter of organic farming, the label currently works with sustainable farmers in India to source organic cotton, which is used throughout its collections. Like many of the other Aussie labels, Elsom hopes to create pieces that reflect classic style, including button down shirts, chic cocktail dresses and slim suits.

Gorman

Gorman has been a fixture on the Aussie fashion scene since 1999, but in 2007, it introduced Gorman Organic in response to growing environmental awareness. Pieces from the organic range are blended through the main collections, but are created from either certified organic or sustainable materials. The label says it launched an organic range as a way to offer their customers a sustainable choice, without having to compromise style or quality. The philosophy behind the brand is to be inspired by the everyday and the local cultures and artists that surround them. Gorman creator Lisa Gorman, says she is particularly inspired by her Fitzroy neighborhood, regarded as a creative bohemia, and reflects this through many of the pieces in her collections.

Gaawaa Miyay

Up and coming Indigenous designer Lucy Simpson is the force behind Gaawaa Miyay (which translates to “River Daughter”), a label that blends the ancient tradition of visual storytelling with contemporary Indigenous design. Lucy is committed to using natural fibers, sustainable practices and to manufacturing her pieces in Australia. Her designs span across fashion, homewares and accessories and reflect the cultural heritage, stories, memories and landscapes of her Yuwaalaraay family. Already the recipient of much critical acclaim, Gaawaa Miyay is one label to keep an eye on, particularly in the lead up to Australia’s Inaugural Indigenous Fashion Week in 2013.

The post Designers From Down Under: Top 5 Aussie Labels to Watch appeared first on EcoSalon.

7 successful fashion talents we’ll have our eye on this year.

As the ever-wise Alexander McQueen once said, “It’s a new era in fashion – there are no rules. It’s all about the individual and personal style, wearing high-end, low-end, classic labels, and up-and-coming designers all together.” An innovative program launched by the New York City Economic Development Corporation and the Fashion Institute of Technology seems to be embracing this new era McQueen spoke of.

The executive level program – Design Entrepreneurs NYC – will give participants access to high-level industry execs and provide them with a means to further their skills to run a successful fashion or accessories label. Of 165 applicants, 35 emerging designers were hand-picked to join to the Class of 2012. EcoSalon caught up with 7 of the stellar selected designers to hear what’s getting them excited about being a part of this fashion-forward program.

Tara St. James of STUDY NY

“What I’m looking forward to most in participating in this program is that it will force me to sit down and really focus on and plan the future of my business. That’s a luxury I haven’t had until now. I also think it will be great for networking with peers and potential mentors.”

Nimet Degirmencioglu of SOHAM DAVE
“We are looking forward to meeting all other talented designers and very knowledgable advisors. We are hoping that through the program we would be able to reach the investors and capital to carry our brand to the next level. Our artisans and our supply chain in India is ready to produce for department stores and we would like to grow the business.”

Anne Pachan of CALA OSSIDIANA

“I am really excited to participate in this program and take my business to the next level. Having a company that creates high-fashion swimwear with eco-friendly fabrics – and being able to do all of that within NYC – is what gets me up in the morning. I love the mini-MBA style of the program and how focused it is – with sections on marketing and sales, legal questions for startups, and the financial aspects of running a small business. The other really fantastic part is the group of people participating. I have taken a few business and entrepreneurship courses previously, but never with such a strong group of designers as my peers and classmates – we are all at similar levels, ready to take that next step to success, and will be able to support each other and grow together.”

Sarah Canner of VESPERTINE
“I’m most excited for the opportunity to learn from some of the industry’s top teachers and executives and to be able to directly apply the knowledge and experiences they share into my business plan revision and the day-to-day building of Vespertine.”

Thea Grant of BAZZdeGRANT 
“This program will allow us access to experts and teachers of critical areas of our industry that are often overlooked or forgotten over time by so many talented designers…in so-saying, I am most excited to refocus the passion my partner and I have for our work through the lens of a business professional.”

Graciela Fuentes of TIRANA JEWELRY

“I’m a creative type so my dream was to be a designer, not neccesarily a business owner. Over the years I’ve been honing my design skills, but I’ve come to realize that the key to achieve success is the proper balance between design talent and business acumen. I believe DENYC will provide me with essential skills to further develop my brand so I’m ecstatic to be a part of the 2012 class.”

Anjelika Krishna of A.D.O.
“I truly appreciate the opportunity to participate in the Design Entrepreneurs NYC program, and am most excited to meet the mentors and learn from them on how to successfully grow my sustainable business, A.D.O. I am also excited to meet other entrepreneurs and possibly start some collaborative projects.”

A big congratulations to all selected emerging designers. We’re holding onto our hats in anticipation to see what the future holds for all of them…

The post Design Entrepreneurs NYC Announces the (Sustainable) Fashion Class of 2012 appeared first on EcoSalon.

I work with many sustainable designers and one of the more common questions I’m asked is usually about who another designer uses for manufacturing or dyeing. I will never forget the loss of a U.S based non-toxic dyeing facility that one of the designers below regularly used – and eventually had to close its doors.

Another designer had asked me to ask her (as if we were in high school) where she did her dyeing and I suggested, “She’s really nice and will tell you. Just ask her.”

That designer never did and so the business went under.

I wonder how many more stories are out there where designers were too nervous to ask about production and so stayed mum.

Mom always told me, the dumbest question was the one that never got asked.

I caught up with six top sustainable designers to ask them a simple question: Do you think the more sustainable designers share their sources, the stronger their field will become?

Here’s what they had to say.

Nicole Bridger, I think it’s great for us eco designers to work together and help each other out. We are stronger as a collective for sure. The only thing to be careful of is that we don’t all end up using the same fabrics and colors, the different lines can end up looking the same. So for that reason it is important to keep your individual aesthetic. But I think its possible for us to work together and be mindful not to have the same fabrics.

Celeste Lilore, RESTORE Barriers for entry become points of “cooperation” when sourcing is shared. It takes a village and building community will help move sustainable fashion to mainstream.

Davora Lindner, Prairie Underground Most designers in this category share a short list of resources. Sourcing unique sustainable textiles is more about buying power than availability. Purchasing greater quantities increases your options and makes the price per yard less expensive. The ability to source overseas expands your options a good deal, but again these are custom production orders with high minimum yardage.  We focus on textile categories in our small collection to ensure that we can move forward with new fabrications in a manner that is realistic for production.

Alice Wu, Feral Childe Yes, if designers collaborate on sustainable sourcing, the field will be stronger. Currently the variety of sustainable fabrics available to independent and emerging designers is fairly limited since not only is there not that much variety in color and fabrication, it can be difficult to meet a 1,000 yard opening order minimum that some suppliers demand. If suppliers see that sustainable designers have staying power in the marketplace it may encourage them to lower their minimums and offer greater product variety. There is a golden opportunity out there for a U.S-based independent sustainable fabric sales rep to connect the dots – someone who’s got the relationships both with designers and suppliers who can help us pool together our needs for new fabric production orders as well as find takers for production overrun fabric.

Tara St. James, Study NY My short answer is yes. Absolutely. To elaborate, I am a huge proponent of open source material and transparency in manufacturing. Luckily most sustainable designers seem to agree with me and are very forthcoming with their resources and ready to share their contacts. It allows independent designers to share resources without the burden of production minimums, while affording them lower costs and share shipping. If only the rest of the fashion industry were to adopt the same philosophy, it would allow for not only larger exposure for sustainable textile vendors, but more demand on traditional manufacturers to implement sustainable practices.

Gretchen Jones Yes and No. Collaborations are all about the partners. Is each artist bringing to the table some new perspective and referential material?  Can the collaboration maintain each others individual voices, while supporting the complimentary elements?

To me, as a designer whom struggles with the connection to sustainability and ethical business practices vs. my high fashion, yet independent aesthetics. I believe the success of a collaboration would and will only be successful [and heighten the eco movement] by walking the tight rope between style and morals. I want to diversify, I want to diffuse. I know my strengths, and am very aware of my weaknesses. Collaborations are about building each other up. I think, when done thoughtfully and with intention to elevate, collaborations can certainly lead to progression for sustainability.

I personally believe the only way we will make a change, is to create and manufacturer competitive, forward and quality goods.  The sustainable design community must produce with the focus on ‘fashion first,’ after all, we are a part of the fashion industry, we will always be able to do so ethically, the challenge is in creating at the high caliber design of those competing with out their environmental in mind. We change minds through changing perspectives. Collaborations could and will, create opportunity to express with support, deliver with quality and produce competitively. In turn – we change minds and grow our community through shared experience and story – not just a dress.

Image by Pheezy

The post EcoSalon Asks, 6 Designers Answer appeared first on EcoSalon.

You read about, link to and send out tweets talking about a plethora of sites filled with either great content or stunning clothing, and it can be hard to keep track.

I have my own problems keeping up, so maybe I’m doing this for my own good. Regardless, here’s a top 20 round-up of what I consider the best of the best (and most interesting) sites when it comes to shopping as well as learning about eco-designers, trends and news.

(Is it shameless to put EcoSalon and my new eco-boutique Shift in here? Shh…)

Blog Love

Founded and carefully curated by Abigail Doan, Ecco Eco is undoubtedly one of my favorite blogs to peruse as of late for how refreshing as well as interesting the content is: Fiber meets fashion meets art meets couture meets environment? Love it.

Doan is also a writer for other fashion blogs, an editor and an environmental artist residing in NYC and Europe.

She says of her art: “My eco-textile and art farming projects are a means to create sustainable solutions and key visual links to the global challenges we collectively face.”

Ecouterre’s mission? “To follow the evolution of the apparel industry toward a more environmentally sound future, as well as facilitate a conversation about why sustainable fashion matters.”

I just love it when they’re able to shock me with what can be solar or wind-powered in regards to clothing and accessories!

Through a team consisting of the likes of founder Jill Fehrenbacher (also founder of Inhabitat) and Managing Editor Jasmin Malik Chua, we’re able to discover designers taking fashion further than we ever thought it could go.

Run by founder/writer Kate Black,  Magnifeco’s daily eco-fashion and style blog features products that are fair-trade, recycled, reusable, sustainable, organic, and/or vegan.

Through her “Boutique of the Week,” I’ve found online shopping meccas I never knew of.

In writing this I just realized that when you click on any of her blog’s featured photos, you get taken directly to the spot where you can buy them. Nice Kate!

I almost feel like it’s unnecessary to write anything about Treehugger because you all probably follow them. They’re one of the most solid sources for eco-fashion trends, news and upcoming designers.

Why I will write about them is because their prolific writer Emma Grady is one of the hardest working women I’ve come across – writing almost every article you read on the site. While there are a few other writers, Emma single-handedly walks us down catwalks, and shoulders us at events where all the right people are gathering to make some noise.

And we like her for that.

One of the coolest ideas that came around last year to bring an awareness to how many clothes we have and how little we need was from designer Eliza Starbuck designer of Bright Young Things.

Starbuck designed her LBD inspired by how to make a dress “universally wearable yet individually specific,” not to mention sustainable and fashionable. Then she paired-up with Sheena Matheiken of The Uniform Project and women taking on their wardrobes in the form of wear-a-thon’s ensued. Her site chronicles a few women currently participating in their own – utilizing her (Starbuck’s) very own LBD for sale on her site.

“I’ve seen so many women with closets full of clothes who say, “˜I haven’t got a thing to wear.’ I’m giving them one dress that they can wear forwards, backwards, open, again and again, with anything they like.”

Eco-Chick

Eco-Chick Founder and Editor Starre Vartan is who I consider the current go-to green girl.

Not only does she run this blog full of current eco-fashion news, tips and interviews, Starre is the author of The Eco-Chick Guide To Life and can be found editing and guest writing on many popular green blogs. She’s also a great connector and connected to her natural environment which I think helps her to write from an honest place.

Starre Vartan for president.

With a team of writers that spread across four continents, EFW (Eco Fashion World) offers all the latest eco-fashion news and reviews, designer Q&A’s, store profiles, launch updates, and interviews with their “favorite ethical divas.”

I peruse their “comprehensive eco fashion finder” for brands or shops and resources around the globe to save myself time sometimes.

I love designer Tara St. James’ blog because it satisfies many things I need.

1. It’s written from the perspective of a designer, so I get to see different aspects of what designers go through from pattern making to dyeing.

2. I get to see what’s coming up next from a woman I consider pretty damn forward in terms of fashion.

3. I get to shop if I want her limited run pieces.

4. She’s a great writer and keeps me interested.

I don’t need to say any more.

Great Eagan’s FASHIONmeGREEN is a sustainable fashion awareness project and style site featuring eco-fashion makeovers with “style influencers.” Many who thought before Greta’s greening, eco was pretty sucko.

You can check out the FMG Daily for a current feed on what is hot, peruse her “Projects,” where she travels to the fashion capitals of the world to select a fashion influencers, and catch the behind the scenes footage in her webisodes.

Label Gazer’s goal is “to shine a spotlight on the many wonderful designers exploring various areas of socially responsible, ethical and eco-friendly fashion.”

Peruse the site’s designer database comprised of the top designers in the sustainable design field, find great deals at hot sites. And when you see some really forward-fashion-featured, then click on their link to it and voila, you’re instantly at a site ready to buy it.

Very carefully curated and delicious to peruse.

Go-To Industry Resources

Ecotextile News should be at the top of your reading everyday.

This environmental magazine for the global textile and clothing supply chain is published 10 times per year as a magazine, delivered direct to your door, and is a great blog providing expert analysis, in-depth commentary and offers the latest news on ethical fashion.

As a writer I love it because it keeps me up-to-date on lots of interesting issues.

Think you know a few things about organic cotton? Well, you might want to check out this site to see just how much and then keep learning.

Created to be a resource for industry and consumers alike who have an interest in the fiber, this site has ongoing information about organic cotton farmers, farming, designers implementing organic cotton, super-brands and interesting events.

Bookmark this site for sure.

The Ethical Fashion Forum is a non-profit network focusing upon social and environmental sustainability in the fashion industry.

Their mission? “To support and promote sustainable practices, facilitate collaboration, raise awareness and provide the tools and resources needed to reduce poverty, reduce environmental damage and raise standards in the fashion industry.”

Founded by both designers and businesses, this is great tool to help keep your finger on the pulse of industry discussions.

A newcomer to the internet but run by seasoned professionals like Summer Rayne Oakes, Benita Singh and Adam Schwartz, Source4Style is the first online marketplace created for designers and suppliers to search and source the world’s leading sustainable textiles.

You have to sign up to utilize the whole site but there’s a blog at the site where you can keep up to date on a few issues Source4Style is part of.

To even be able to participate on the Source4Style.com platform, the team gives potential suppliers a Sustainability Questionnaire and Fabric Listing, both of which are required before joining the site. This is to ensure the materials they offer are in the most presentable, accurate and transparent way possible for designers and suppliers.

With Summer Rayne Oakes at the helm, I pity the fool who tries to pull a fast one on them

For Eco-Shopaholics

Jennifer Miller, founder of Mission Savvy has five “Missions” that represent her online store: Dream, Compassion, Freedom, Instinct and Voice. Each of these collections represent an animal protection issue. She doesn’t bang you over the head with it, instead she creatively offers you clothing from designers that best exemplify her theme.

Five percent of profits generated by sales from the site are donated to a select group of animal welfare and conservation groups who work on the front lines of tough issues.

Although she’s based in Charleston, West Virginia, Miller oftentimes takes her show on the road to a city near you. Check out her tour schedule.

Based in New York City, Kaight’s brick-and-mortar shop and online site has taken center stage for awhile when it comes to boutiques, and there’s good reason for it.

Kaight owner Kate McGregor is always thinking ahead.

She’s another super hip woman having parties with designers, listening to feedback from customers, being a part of the sustainable solution and having a Melissa Store within her store. Too cool.

Designer Lina Rennell who owns Beklina is a marvel at what she puts into her store’s collection.

Think clean, modern eco-design meets art.

Just going to link to the site for this post got me distracted and wanting more from her.

Jute and Jackfruit was at EcoSalon Shops! and it was the first time I got to see a representation of the store and I loved it.

A nice collection of some of the more well-known designers in the field today. The site boasts nice clear pictures, so I can easily check out the clothes I am considering purchasing.

One important goal of Jute and Jackfruit is to empower women worldwide, as the site donates one percent of revenue to environmental and social causes.

“We try to partner with and support independent women designers here in the United States as well as designers and products that are made by women’s artisan groups and cooperatives overseas.”

Based in San Francisco, Eco Citizen’s brick and mortar and online shopping venue are owned by Joslin Van Arsdale who’s background in textiles, trend forecasting and writing help her curate this amazing shop.

Men will be happy there’s something there for them too!

Says Van Arsdale: “It feels good to know that the items I sell are not only well-designed, but also fair trade, organic and sustainable – to know this gives me a purpose.”

Me too, I’m going to get a pair of Melissa shoes as soon as I finish this post.

Foundfuture founder and former 400 Showroom co-owner Shannon Lorraine opened this little marvel this year and I always go back to it when I want inspiration for fun accessories or well, just to buy them.

Mi Asunta’s sexy necklaces and sweet swallow head bands by Love From Hetty and Dave give me that little bit of country and little bit of rock and roll I so desperately need.

Artists running boutiques? Keep it coming.

Sodafine’s designer Erin Weckerle’s boutique specializes in innovative and unique handmade clothing, accessories and gift items, not to mention a ” selective collection of vintage clothing.”

Based in Brooklyn, this sweet little haven of ethical goodness loves its designers and we love them too.

Image: garryknight

The post Your One-Stop-Shop for the Top 20 Eco-Fashion Sites appeared first on EcoSalon.

Here at the Shelter division of EcoSalon, we obsess over sustainable home design, from clever DIYs using recycled materials to impeccably designed eco-kitchens. And we’re not alone! Every day, the web is flooded with inspirational ideas, aha! tips, and just plain awesome products relating to green design. Spearheading these efforts are some of the country’s most brilliant, talented, and savvy bloggers, writers and designers.

We sought out to find these revolutionaries, and are excited to present to you A Sheltered Life, our new biweekly interview series with the best home design experts around. Every other Thursday, we’ll be dishing with the web’s brightest about their favorite tweaks that make a room pop, their definition of “home,” their favorite eco resources – from websites to flea markets – and more.

Stop by tomorrow when we’ll be gleaning insight from Michelle Adams, Founder and Editor of Lonny Magazine, the lust-worthy virtual magazine delivering the sharpest ideas for your home.

And stay tuned for upcoming interviews with:

• Grace Bonney, Founder and Editor of Design*Sponge
• Victoria Smith, Founder and Editor of SF Girl by Bay
• Cambria Bold, Editor of Apartment Therapy’s Re-Nest
• Zem Joaquin, Founder and CEO of EcoFabulous

So sit back, scroll, and make yourself at home as we discover which of these women scored a fab art-deco dining buffet for $5, whose most prized possession is her stapling gun, and who drives a VW Bug.

The post New EcoSalon Interview Series: A Sheltered Life appeared first on EcoSalon.

In part three of Dumbing Down American Design, we talk with Han Lee, owner of Fine Line Production, a company that does everything from pattern making  to grading and hang tags. We also speak with Nancie Chan of Tyler Production, a cutting and sewing floor. Both companies are located in New York City’s historic Garment District.

We revisit the driving question: Has our quest for convenience and rock bottom prices forever altered fashion and is American design becoming a thing of the past?

A week ago today, I was in New York City with Part 2 guest, designer Anthony Lilore. Anthony was nice enough to take time out of his schedule to take me around New York City’s Garment District.

Our first stop is with Han Lee, owner of Fine Line Production. Han sits down to talk and the conversation quickly veers from what he does for clients to who his clients are. Lee currently works with about 30 designers who help sustain his company. If they are succeeding, so is he.

“[I work with] the smaller designers,” he says. “The designers who want to be part of their design process, who can’t afford to manufacture overseas.”

I ask if perhaps smaller designers are more authentically connected to what they’re selling. He smiles and nods.

I throw out a comment for reaction: that (rumor has it) the bigger designers don’t even design much of their own collections. They simply pick a design and ship it to their manufacturing facility overseas where the facility offers a few more designs based on the original. The final design is picked and quickly put into production.

“True,” he says.

Second stop: Nancie Chan of Tyler Production, a cutting and sewing floor, also in the Garment District.

She’s a little perplexed as to why I would want to be there. There’s something to be said about working various jobs in the fashion industry, and never getting to see behind the scenes. This is what my trip is all about. As a buyer, rep, writer and marketer for sustainable designers over the past five years, I’ve always wanted to step inside a room like this.

It holds no glamour; it’s a space filled with hardworking women who are simply passionate about what they are doing. I ask Nancie if she works with larger or indie designers more frequently.

“The smaller ones,” she says, adding that some she works with come from unlikely fields. “Like finance,” she says.

I ask her if she means the designer cmarchuska; her face lights up. Yes, that’s the one.

I own a few cmarchuska pieces and love that I now know exactly where the pieces were made. Chan has no problem saying on the record that her most problematic clients are the bigger designers who never pay or are detached from their labels and the decisions made about them. She cites at least two designers who owe her $100,000.

“What about the smaller designers?”

“They always pay on time,” she says.

There are two scenarios I want you to imagine. In one, I see these connected, independent designers who pay on time ruling American design. They have convinced you that paying a little more is worth it because their clothes are real and inspired and sustainably manufactured, all in the U.S.A. They’ve rubbed off on the mainstream designers and the majority is now producing with a conscience – and with personal inspiration. Our clothing has a story.

American manufacturing facilities in major cities are working together to source and invest in clean facilities, educating the steadfast seasoned employees in new ways where fit, fashion and functionality work together. Our fashion technology is innovative and we have become dynamic in our approach. Because you believe in these smaller designers, they are thriving financially instead of waitressing by day and designing by night.

They enrich design by offering you choices of their own creation, not the pick-one-of-three-designs-you-like scenario that comes out looking like, well, everything else.
You feel unique in your clothes and dressing is a fun part of your day.

But in scenario two, larger designers rule American design. Their made-from-afar designs are being shipped to their holding warehouses where they are shipped to boutiques. Designers are nothing more than a good marketing campaign. They are no longer designs. We all dress virtually the same.

And in some dystopian Logan’s Run-like nightmare where we’re brainwashed that the consumption of our resources are best managed by killing everyone who reaches the age of 30 instead of just being conscious of what we consume, we no longer care what we wear, all designers get phased out and large corporations like Wal-Mart clothe us (and feed, and supply us with everything we need to survive).

Image: it’s life

The post Dumbing Down American Design, Part 3 appeared first on EcoSalon.

In part two of Dumbing Down American Design, we talk with Anthony Lilore, co-designer for sustainable design label RESTORE and a board member for New York City’s Save The Garment Center. We revisit the driving question: Has our quest for convenience and rock bottom prices forever altered fashion and is American design becoming a thing of the past?

Let’s talk carbon footprints, supporting American eco-designers who want to keep things in the U.S. and seasoned industry professionals whose techniques we simply can’t afford to lose.

Lilore spoke with us from a designer’s perspective but also more personally, as an individual working to preserve the Garment Center, New York City’s industrial fashion glory and a cultural icon that could become more than a historical footnote.

“Pull the garment work out of China, they’ll collapse, pull it from India, collapse, pull it from Mexico, them too. See a pattern here?” Lilore says, adding that the garment industry in the 1960’s was the largest single employer in NYC except for the government.

“Garments and garment work and workers are economic engines,” says Lilore. “Fashion is the fuel.”

The decline of the Garment Center is being encouraged by local real estate owners. Without enough workers in the Garment Center, the zoning will have to be changed, meaning higher rents from new tenants, not in the industry. Preservation of the District, located in what many consider the soul of Manhattan’s mid-town, means little in the face of the almighty dollar.

“In the 60’s, everything in the U.S. was made or passed through the Garment Center, there were unions and really, hundreds of thousands of people working in the Garment Center,” says Lilore.

The designers are as much to blame for the decline.

To satisfy their own financially flush version of the American dream, designers got greedy and realized that manufacturing overseas was increasingly cheaper.

“At first, it wasn’t a big deal, maybe somebody would lose a job, maybe two but over the past 30 years, that greed has caused only 3-5 percent of American manufacturing to be happening in New York City,” says Lilore.

In the meantime, with less actual manufacturing occurring in the Garment District, NYC landlords continue working to re-zone and to ghettoize the area by putting Garment professionals in one building and charging more to force them out. So far, this effort has been met with a fight. Groups like Save the Garment Center, the CFDA and the Design Trust for Public Space are now spearheading a conscious campaign against the city landlords to show why the Garment Center is an integral part of New York City’s economy, cultural identity and sense of place.

If this doesn’t work, existing pattern and sample makers, trim and design houses will be forced to pay more, which in this already tight design economy, makes it virtually impossible to survive. Add to this equation Americans’ addiction to deals and a disconnect from the true costs involved in the clothes they wear and the result is the perfect formula for extinction.

Still, we haven’t completely lost our edge, and there are encouraging signs for American design.

“It’s an interesting thing that China is actually making it easier to compete lately because the carrot of [Western-style] democracy has been placed before them,” says Lilore. “They like the American lifestyle where we do make more money so they’re putting their prices higher. This makes them less attractive to designers trying to make more for less.”

For those rare designers willing to invest in American design and manufacture, Lilore says they now have to sit back and quietly ask themselves, “Why the hell do I want to do this?”

“When I go talk to young designers now, I tell them, the idea of being a designer has to be as important to you as breathing. If you’re not prepared to be poor, if you’re not prepared to be a nobody, if you’re not prepared to make a difference then don’t f*cking do it.”

For Lilore, being an American designer is worth the exhaustion, financial strain and production headaches.

“I deal with all this and still want to do it all in the Garment Center because I want to keep design in this country,” Lilore says. “New York City is the fashion capital of the U.S., if not the world, and as a brand it is on par with Coca-Cola. By not protecting the brand, by not saving the Garment District, we are not saving the fuel that runs one of the economic engines of the fashion capital of the world.”

Video and image: Design Trust For Public Space

The post Dumbing Down American Design, Part 2 appeared first on EcoSalon.

As Fashion Editor of EcoSalon and owner of an eco-boutique I talk to a lot of designers. This was my first time going to Market Week in NYC as both and it was as thrilling as it was tiring.

Market Week, if you haven’t been, is where clothing designers worldwide show their seasonal collections in New York City. Buyers from stores large and small come here to buy what best represents their brand. It is a tough, tedious job and forges a deeper appreciation for the fashion industry beyond hitting the shops with a girlfriend to check out the newest duds.

D&A, Coterie, Train, NOW Showcase and two individual appointments in studios kept my boutique partner, Amanda, and I busy as devil’s advocates representing an eco-boutique. (I admit, it surprised me how many people raised their eyebrows when we said that.)

Since we knew we’d really have to grill the designers about their knowledge of their lines for our eco-minded purposes, we anticipated this process was going to be a hard pill to swallow for some.

We were right.

If the price is too low, somebody’s getting paid to make it with rice.

On at least three occasions when we asked eco-designers why their price was so low, they didn’t have a real answer except, “We just like to keep the prices low.”

One designer in particular, looming over me at 6’2″ in her super chunky platform heels, couldn’t offer me much in terms of information and fumbled with sheets of paper as I inquired. Her heavily made-up eyes and fierce Frankenstein eyebrows finally communicated the message loud and clear: get the hell out of her booth. (I’m not kidding about the eyebrows.)

But cheers to my two new favorite eco-designers, Ethos and Toggery, who seem to keep it all in balance, designing truly beautiful pieces as well as producing at amazing prices. I’ll be telling you their fantastic stories soon – can’t wait.

Some eco-designers think just tossing up a sign that says you’re a sustainable designer makes you part of the eco pack.

Note to designers: one organic piece out of many does not an eco brand make. Thank goodness my partner and I scrutinized each and every label to make sure we stood by our boutique mission, which is to sell 100% sustainable materials. 10% soy and 90% conventional cotton? Thanks, but no thanks.

A caveat, though. I actually believe a compromise like that is fine if you’re just starting out with eco manufacture, because it takes time to learn and test. But for experienced designers, claiming eco status when you’re really not is just greenwash. (I wish I had the cojones to name names.)

To that point: Evolving into a sustainable designer is not a bad thing!

In one vendor’s booth (many of you would recognize the label) they’d pushed all their eco-apparel into a corner that was being dripped on from a malfunction in the ceiling. When asked about the eco-friendly part of their line, they were timid to show us what they had. Sensing their embarrassment, we walked away.

Highlights?

– Meeting Howard Brown of Stewart & Brown and getting to hear about his and his partner’s (Karen Stewart) passion for their line. And the fact that they were actually there instead of letting reps do all the hard work!

– Meeting Doucette Duvall in their studio and their offer to search remnant fabrics for us to create the pieces in their line that are not yet eco because they “love going on a hunt.” (Hunt more, ladies, and make it all eco!)

– Meeting Kate D’Arcy of Toggery, who designs from the perspective that every woman deserves to wear sustainably designed clothes made in the U.S. (that means beautiful and fairly priced).

– Learning from the ever-exuberant Celeste Lilore of Restore Clothing just how the plastics used in her line are recycled and made into fibers with touch bowls and great literature.

– Meeting the one and only Starre Vartan, founder of Eco Chick, editor of Greenopia and author of The Eco-Chick Guide To Life. Thanks to all her great social media head shots, she was easily identified.

– Eating as much delicious ethnic food as possible.

– Sitting and spending time with eco-designers I love and support.

I write all this and wonder if it’s interesting to you, this behind-the-scenes detail. I hope it is. I want you to understand how much work goes into those shops you love. All those online eco-boutique shop owners were there in the throes of Market, picking out some really great things for you.

You see, it’s not just a shopping free-for-all. They’re personal shopping for you.

Image: The Train New York

The post To Market, to Market, to Market We Go appeared first on EcoSalon.

Stella McCartney Spring 2010 RTW

Identifying trends only draws attention to the need for the masses to fall in when comes to uniform chic, despite the artistic license we all have to strut our stuff with individual flair.

Eco-designers are out there, in more ways than one, often pushing the envelope with fabrics and structures, making the term trend less significant than the term evolved. So check out the nearest eco-boutique and find the sustainably designed must-have that best fits you, and your lifestyle.

Looking ahead to 2010 and back over some 2009 trends we predicted, a few fashion gems have stuck while others refreshingly, went away. While we don’t go in for every fast fad, we wouldn’t be a very good eco fashion blog if we didn’t keep you up to date on the best eco fashion trends, would we?

Totally Turquoise

While more mainstream neons and jewel tones seem to have usurped last year’s neutral tones, one color stands out most for 2010: turquoise.

Rifle through your jewelry drawer and find those chunky rings, beaded necklaces and vintage blouses with the cool blue hue and you’re sure to be the girl of the moment.

Cynthia Steffe Spring 2010

Corsets Galore

Corsets anyone? Designers love them this season and are pairing them with equally form-fitting bottoms for a tough look and feminine A-line skirts for a bit of romance.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2010

Gilded Warrior

Were you going gaga for folk dresses and bohemian tops last year? Well my friend, strangely, we’ve gone from happy-go-lucky flower girls to hardcore warriors who dress like they’re angry about it.

Sass & Bide Spring/Summer 2010

Leather, not Pleather

Vegan? This is the year of the anti-green for you with leather being the skinny everywhere, from form-fitted turtlenecks to biker jackets.

Kate Moss

Any Denim Will Do

I feel ashamed to say anything about denim. I write this with a pair of ripped jeans on (and yes, distressed is still in) but my jeans are five years old and just happened to give way round the knees.

Do I have other pairs? Of course: organic denim leggings for under flowy tops and too short dresses, boot cuts to go over my signature Frye boots and pocketless skinny jeans to erase as much weight as possible off my hips and derriere.

Black, blue, grey, faded and torn are all in my drawers. Hey! I just listed the last 10 years of denim!

Oscar De La Renta Spring/Summer 2010

Play Clothes

Full skirts have been replaced with something even better: Short shorts, jumpsuits and playsuits! Get your Seventies on! (Note: tongue firmly planted in cheek.) Now, before you cringe, consider this romper from Prairie Underground. Of all the shows I’ve attended, this one stood out as a piece that might actually be doable, especially with the leggings underneath.

Prairie Underground’s Romp Around the Clock Spring 2010

Shoulder Pads Go Ultra Mod

Just when you thought the trend of shoulder pads was gone, some designer took acid and decided, “Let’s go Battlestar Galactica and put points on our shoulders,” (see warrior dressing also).

I was at a clothing swap recently and grabbed myself a really cute vintage, black blazer and it just happened to have shoulder pads. I tried to convince myself I could wear it but with broad shoulders I looked like an idiot. Designers, please: stop it with the pads!

From New York Magazine

Color Me Mine

One thing I love for 2010 is that you can fake it – dress like you know something about fashion and get away with knowing nothing.
Mix prints and funky graphics with florals and stripes, throw in some color and a long necklace or two and you’re likely going to be right on trend.

Dries Van Noten Spring 2010

Varsity Girl

One of the strangest trends looking forward is the “I want to be a high school boy in the locker room” look, or more formally, the “Sports Fashion Trend.”

Always wanted to wear a sport bra alone in public? How about football pants? Well, you’re in for some fun.

Raid your son’s football duffel bag for inspiration or go to the nearest tennis court and see how outfits might translate into street fashion. Tomboy cool? No thanks – I don’t need a jock strap to be hip.

Alexander Wang Spring 2010

The post 2010 Fashion Trends: A Round-Up of Seasonal Structures and Shapes appeared first on EcoSalon.

While some sites carry tried and true lines we’ve been following for years, others are peddling cutting edge sustainable fashion – making conscious consumption more provocative than ever.

Here’s a list of what I consider the top 10 eco boutiques. Have at ’em!

Beklina

I just can’t convey how much I love this site, from the photos to the clothes. Always clean and easy to navigate, Beklina loves their indie designers and is willing to experiment with styles other boutiques are hesitant to try.

Love the Lina Rennell and Mociun offerings as well as these vegan moccasins by Manimal.

Beklina’s site says “Our fashion is modern organic, reflecting Northern California’s grace and beauty,” says Beklina, who believes clothing and design can be “precious, radical, nurturing, healing and wonderful.”

Guess it’s working cause whenever I go to their site, I’m instantly happy.

Embodies

I met Embodies owner Kenlynn Wilson last year at a trade show in New York. I could tell by the look in her eye she was the real deal when it came to being serious about eco.

She bases her criteria on a few things: What fabrics are used in the clothing, where the items are manufactured (and under what conditions), what types of dyes are used in the clothing as well as the packaging the clothes are being shipped in. Curating with a careful eye, Wilson’s due diligence yields a great stable of fashion-forward eco-designers.

Look for Alabama Chanin, Calleen Cordero cuff bracelets and select Linda Loudermilk.

Greenloop

Besides running a fabulous online boutique, Greenloop owner Aysia Wright is commonly used as a resource for both designers and the eco-community. She’s everywhere.

Having just wrapped up her Project Green Search in L.A., Wright’s returned to her home base of Portland, Oregon where she recently moved the brick and mortar Greenloop inside Seven Planet.

Check out the site for a veritable who’s who of eco-designers including Del Forte denim, Charmone shoes (crazy close-outs on them as I write) and Loomstate.

Arboretum

Guided by William McDonough and Michael Braungart’s Hannover Principles on our inter-dependence on nature, Arboretum owners Kate Morison and Andrea Barrett have created their own eco-study of beautiful designed clothing and accessories to show us.

Both women hail from Sonoma County where, they say a connection with the land is a part of their everyday life.
“From the rugged coastline to the majestic redwoods, we have drawn vast inspiration from our environment. Our inspiration and shared vision led us to build an Arboretum.”

Love their picks of Stewart and Brown, Rag & Bone and Prairie Underground.

Clary Sage Organics

After a busy day wearing my blogger and retailer hats, I want to slip on lounging wear with comfort and ease.

Clary Sage is my go to brand for comfy but stylish yoga pants, camisole tops and my very favorite, Convertible Wrap (feels delicious).

In addition to their own line, they have an “After Yoga” section with easy slip on skirts, tunic t-shirts and go-to hoodies.

Just when you thought you were completely satisfied with their clothing selections, they offer a great range of Lotions and Potions including my favorite body care line, Farmaesthetics and perfumes by Tsi~La (Ylang Ylang is mmm…). Search the site for your own new favorites.

Kaight

Kate Macgregor, the founder and owner of Kaight has carefully edited her boutique for men and women that dig clothing and accessories “thoughtfully designed” with organic and sustainable textiles.

Like most of the eco-boutiques listed here, Kaight specializes in emerging and independent designers who use organic, recycled and sustainable materials.

Love their Ashley Watson bags, Melissa Shoe selection as well as Dream & Awake vintage dresses.

Tobi

In addition to their traditional shopping, Tobi offers an Eco-Tobi site which I hope continues to grow.

If you can’t get to the actual brick and mortar shop in San Francisco, their 1-to-1 shopping experience can be had onlinewhich involves live chat with one of the owners to get style advice or sizing questions answered before you buy.

Lots of great natural body and hair care lines including Pangea, Hamadi and Pure Fiji as well as basics from Alternative Apparel and tried and true lines by Edun, Prairie Underground and Stewart and Brown.

Jessa Brinkmeyer, owner of Pivot

Pivot
This Chicago-based online boutique is run by Jessa Brinkmeyer on the premise that being eco doesn’t have to be overwhelming.

Brinkmeyer says “A big part of building an eco-smart wardrobe is finding pieces you can keep and love.”

Very true. By picking even one sustainably designed article of clothing from Pivot, you’ve in fact begun your journey.
You might want to start with a great fitting She-Bible cardigan or Lara Miller sweater that will stylishly last you for years.

Sodafine

Sodafine has got to be one of the sweetest shops going.

Based in Brooklyn, the boutique’s owner Erin Weckerle focuses her buying on “innovative and unique handmade clothing, accessories and gift items.”

Weckerle also carries a selective collection of vintage clothing, (I recently was gifted a beautiful vintage slip from a friend who stopped in there) as well as lines utilizing eco-friendly fabrics and sustainable labor practices.

The site says “Many of the items you’ll find at Sodafine are made by individuals who call themselves artists and see their production of clothing/accessories as just one facet of their artistic process”¦We are eager to assist young artists and craftspeople with information(and inspiration) for marketing their wares. We intend to provide an interesting model of the intersection of art, craft, and fashion at work in everyday life.”

And they have.

Check out great pieces from Feral Childe, Popomomo as well as Sodafine’s own in-house line.

Kind

Kind states that their boutique is for “Living happy, living gently,” which makes me love them all the more.

Mixing sustainably designed as well as vintage finds with things for your nest, Kind is a one-stop shop with quality pieces, consciously handpicked to really reflect their store.

Check out clothing by Mika Machida and Nixxi as well as shoes by Neuaura and Olsen Haus.

The post Top 10 Online Eco-Boutiques appeared first on EcoSalon.