ORGANIC by John Patrick gives us his “beautiful vision” of sustainable fashion.

To the toe-tapping tunes of The Beatles, designer John Patrick debuted his Fall 2012 ORGANIC collection at a boutique event space in the Garment District for New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Under the heading “A Beautiful Vision,” the show featured a romantic collection inspired by a Julia Margaret Cameron photograph called A Beautiful Vision, Julia Duckworth, taken of Cameron’s niece (and future mother of painter Vanessa Bell and writer Virginia Woolf) in 1872.

Using the photograph as a starting point, collaborator and illustrator Mike Ellis interpreted his own “beautiful vision” in graphics for the invitation and show set. “When the illustration came I was stunned at how magically he captured what I was thinking and feeling,” Patrick said in a press release.

The fall line itself was heavy on textures and textiles, with a dizzying array of eco materials parading down the runway, including handmade metallic lace, sustainable recycled wool, biodegradable cotton cupro, vegetable-tanned leather, hand-loomed Angora, and a kaleidoscope of digitally printed silk from London. Patrick also worked with North Carolina-based Raleigh Denim on a handful of jeans in the collection.

The event marked the first New York Fashion Week runway show for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist – he had previously hosted presentations – and featured environmentally conscious model/actress (and long-time John Patrick fan) Shalom Harlow in the front row.

Here, some of our favorite looks and snapshots from after the show.

Images: Jessica Marati, Hans P. Kraus Jr. Fine Photographs

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It might be gray and raining outside, but a few days into 2010 and I’m already looking forward to spring designs. This might be because as far as fashion goes, more and more designers and big names in the industry are opting for sustainable materials. Today’s spotlight is on fashion-giant H&M, which this week announced the spring Garden Collection.

They tell me it’s all about floral patterns this spring, and fortunately, looking fresh and fun will also be eco-friendly. All of the garments in the new line have been made using sustainable materials or textile waste.

On its list of sustainable materials, H&M has incorporated organic cotton, organic linen, recycled polyester and tencel, the renewable fiber that’s quickly making its way into eco-designers’ repertoires.

H&M isn’t new to sustainable design, and they’re well aware of conventional cotton’s impact on the environment. The company started using organic cotton back in 2004, and in the last three years, they’ve increased the amount of organic cotton they use from 30 to 3,000 tons.

As an international fashion company, H&M is a key player in the industry, and increasing demand for organic cotton in turn helps organic cotton farmers. The company is also committed to ensuring that more farmers switch to organic, by supporting transitional cotton growing; converting from conventional to organic cotton production is a process that usually takes three years and working with farmers that are in that process helps keep the industry growing.

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When it comes to developing sustainable fabrics, textile manufacturers have got their work cut out for them. It’s not just about improvement of current favorites like bamboo and cotton, but future-thinking research and development, as well.

Here’s a sampling of what’s being tested and what’s already arrived for you, the fashion-forward green consumer:

Nilit has introduced an eco-friendly nylon yarn that’s made from recycled polymer waste.

Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) has introduced a new range of Merino wool fabrics for applications such as active wear and sportswear.

Scabal has introduced its Four Seasons fabric made from eco-friendly wool for suits.

Vermont Organic Fiber Company has introduced a fabric called O-Wool Washable that is resistant to shrinking and felting during washing.

Greensource has launched two new styles of jeans made from organic cotton that will be sold in Wal-Mart and Kmart stores.

Agion Technologies is forging its way towards a Gold Cradle to Cradle environmental certification with a new anti-microbial treatment.

Argentina-based Indarra.dtx develops clothing that integrates technology and the latest advances in textile development with natural, biodegrading, recyclable and renewable materials.

Air-Dyes is using 100% recycled polyester made from plastic bottles.

Image: Vincent Boiteau

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Eco-fabrics are touted as being sustainable, strong and the way of the future, but do they have a longer shelf life than non eco-fabrics?

I caught up with seven amazing designers who responded to the question:

Do you think it’s truth or myth that eco-fabrics will last longer than traditional fabrics?

Alabama Chanin

It is myth to believe that we can answer questions of sustainability by placing eco and traditional products into one basket and weighing them. Like people, not all eco-fabrics, or products, are created equal. At the heart of the myth is our desire for an easy answer and, unfortunately, there is no easy answer to be found.

Our job as designers (and consumers) is to research with diligence and apply the results of our diligence to our products (and purchases), thereby creating the most highly sustainable and durable product available on the market today. Given those parameters and working within those guidelines, it is an absolute truth that our eco-fabrics and products will last longer.

In writing this, I am reminded of one of my all-time favorite quotes from famed American interior designer Sister Parish, “(E)ven the simplest wicker basket can become priceless when it is loved and cared for through the generations of a family.”

These generations will provide an answer to the “truth, or myth,” that we have exercised due diligence as designers today.

Loyale

I don’t believe that is true. If you are talking about garment production, many eco-companies create better quality clothing via superior sewing. Hence, the garments will last longer because they are made better. But in contrast, many non eco-fabrics are made with synthetics that will actually outlast natural fibers.

Allison Parris

I think that it depends on which type of eco-fabric you’re talking about. We ended up using a lot of organic silk and cotton in our line, and although they are the obvious choice since the look and quality match that of treated silks/cottons, I think that the “eco-movement” is too relatively new to have overwhelming evidence either way.

I think what the drive to be eco-friendly has instilled in us is a willingness to look at new technology and fibers that were not originally considered for this market. For instance, 50 years ago you needed to line your garments in fragile silk fabric to be in the designer market, but these days the textile industry has made huge advances to the point where fibers from a recycled soda bottle can be woven into a strong satin fabric that feels great against the skin. All of our woven garments have been lined in this recycled PET satin instead of silk, which will in turn give them a far longer life.

Alena Hennessy

Quite simply, I believe that fabrics such as organic cotton twill are more durable and will last longer. The seeds used in organic farming are chosen for their natural hardiness and resistance to pests. The cotton is made without the heavy uses of chemicals, and it has a sturdier, more natural feel. Not only that, but it feels good and is better for your skin, and has also been made with a higher intention and purpose. So all these factors combined to me present a clear-cut choice. Buying organic cotton is a sweeter and smarter investment, for you and for the earth, and it will continue to inspire and implement greener choices in all areas of life, like a stone gathering moss.

Madras 641

In our opinion there’s a great deal of truth in this. Everything has a life cycle and truly only time can tell. But two key points for people to remember are:

1.)  We want to choose fabrics that naturally break down and
2.) We want to look for fabrics that, upon purchase, have had less processing done, which has an impact on the overall quality and life of the item.

Many designers are already using fabrics that are known for durability and long life, such as hemp and others. And, we are consciously researching and wanting to select fabrics that are processed using sustainable methods. We are also looking into lower-impact dyes to minimize the breakdown of conventional fibers. Design decisions like these are all important to the life of our goods.

Consumers play a large role in this, as well. Treatment of the garment matters! Taking proper care of your clothes will help you get lots of extra mileage out of them. Over-washing and certainly dry-cleaning has an impact on the life cycle of any piece of clothing. The way we treat stains, care for and store our garments can add or subtract from the longevity of our clothing.

At M641, we choose to create fashion-forward designs that are also timeless for this very reason. And, really everyone can support their own sustainability efforts by purchasing wardrobe pieces that can be used over multiple seasons. Thus, clothing is less likely to end up in landfills having surpassed ever-changing fads.

Doucette Duvall

We really don’t have the technical experience to answer this question since we do not manufacture “eco-fabric,” however, since we rescue a substantial amount of our goods (and most of those goods were manufactured 20-50 years ago), we can confirm that there is a definitive difference in the quality of fabric.

Premium fabrications, of course, are available today – but at premium prices and in limited quantities. In this regard, our rescues (aka: Doucette Duvall eco-fabrics) surely have a longer (and happier) life.
Spun

As a clothing designer using organic cotton in my pieces, I spend a lot of time discussing the importance of organic cotton versus its conventional counterpart. I find that consumers can easily understand how organically-grown cotton, which is free of pesticides and herbicides, can be a healthier decision for not only them, but farmers and their families.

However, I find that there are misconceptions about the durability of clothing made from organic fabrics versus conventional ones. Some consumers feel that the pesticides and chemicals (such as formaldehyde) used in conventionally-made clothing acts as a protective barrier against numerous washings. Therefore, they feel that conventional clothing is more durable.

This statement is simply not true.

Just as we humans can build up our immune systems to fight against disease and make our bodies stronger, organically grown cotton plants can do the same. We hear time and time again that taking medicines such as antibiotics can hinder our body’s ability to fight disease naturally, often needing us to take stronger medications to fight even the smallest of infections. This is exactly what happens with the cotton plant!

Simply stated, when cotton is grown organically, its fibers grow stronger since it has to defend itself against pests naturally. It is also not weakened by chemicals during the growing process. Clothing made from organic cotton can last longer than conventional, making it not only a great value but yet another reason why choosing organics is a much better decision than conventional cotton.

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Dots are my favorite movie candy (I know, the red ones are the only good ones) and I love the round shapes on fabric, a happy trend for spring design and a great way to perk up a tired chair or sofa or add some bounce to your bed.

Modern Fabrics has a fun grouping of spot-on eco-friendly upholstery fabric that really measures up – all from some of the best modern design houses, including Knoll and Pollock.

The merino lambswool Dot Pillow from our own Viva Terra features lovely shaded fabric rounds lining up on the face of the ultra soft brown fabric ($79 including down insert).

I love how the dots take center stage on this new embroidered green organic cotton duvet and sham collection from Pottery Barn ($39 to $179). The dots are crewel-stitched by hand giving a custom feel to this ready-made bedding, which you can have a blast mixing with florals and other bright and bold shades.

For you little one’s room, toss in a dotty elephant, soft and organic in pink or blue and yellows. It will have a long memory of being tugged on, chewed and loved, and since it’s made of good stuff, no worries. I found it at Eden Home for $14.

And of course, a little dot action for your closet. These polka dot pattern sustainable sneakers from Simple will keep help you stay well rounded for spring. Remember to tiptoe through the tulips!

Image: soapylovedeb

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