Elizabeth Cline – EcoSalon

Where is Sustainable Fashion Headed in 2014?

Juliette Donatelli — Wed, 08 Jan 2014 08:00:56 +0000

In the face of both triumph and tragedy, fashion’s masked and intricate supply chain is becoming more transparent. So where is the industry headed in 2014?

I never ever dreamed I would find myself working in the fashion industry. But never say never right? And somewhere between scraping plates for food waste studies and being shoulder deep in a cow’s rumen for ecological restoration research, a lot changed.

Fashion was always an interest of mine, surely an influence from my Parisian mother and catty American high school upbringing, but I always saw the industry as vain–only meant for those that have too much time and money on their hands to care about anything else other than what they wore. For my future, I wanted to be part of something meaningful. So I turned my career efforts to the world of sustainable business. Yet eventually, my environmental blindness led me directly into a relationship I soon wouldn’t be able to untangle.

Unless you are a staunch nudist you consume fashion. As utopian as it might seem to some, few of us are nudists, and so it comes as no surprise that fashion stands as the third largest industry in the entire world, after only energy and food. And like the latter two, consumers want it cheap and fast.

But to churn out fast and cheap in a complicated global supply chain, means processes need to be slimmed, quality diminished and externalities bleeding out at all steps. For fashion, this manifests in thinner, less durable fabric, miniscule pay for workers and over-consumption by us. From growing and harvesting the fiber, to processing and dyeing the textiles, to designing, cutting and sewing the garment, endless resources–be it land or creativity–go into clothing. A lot more than a $5 price tag will ever tell you.

I recently heard ethical fashion pioneer, Elizabeth Cline, speak on her first eye opening experience, when she realized there was something amiss in the industry. In the introduction of her book, “Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion”, she remembers how she found herself in a Manhattan K-Mart buying seven pairs of the same shoes because they were marked down from $15 to $7. “What was so interesting about the psychology of that [moment],” says Cline, “is I owned more clothing than anything else, and I knew the least about it out of anything I buy. And I probably cared the least about it. I didn’t consider myself into fashion, yet I owned so much.”

We live in an era of conscious consumerism and yet at large a void still exits between an eco-lifestyle and the clothing we wear.

Our desire for cheap, fast clothing pushed manufacturing out of the United States fast and hard. The heartbreaking estimations that 80 percent of apparel manufacturing jobs were lost in the last twenty years is real and clearly seen in those communities with factories left. On top of the shift to overseas production for the race to the bottom dollar, cut throat, almost impossible deadlines place inhumane pressures on factory workers. So where do we go from here?

The word sustainability is thrown around a lot, and really turns some people off. And I don’t blame them. What is sustainability? No one really knows exactly what it is, or even if we can achieve it. But we know for certain what sustainability isn’t. Sustainability isn’t having more than we need. But how can we know when owning too much clothing is too much?

“Can we actually make sustainable clothing–I mean, really sustainable clothing?,” posed Rhett Godfrey, Sustainability Director of the progressive organic cotton clothing company Loomstate, at the Manufacture New York Sustainable Textile Summit this past November. “It’s one thing using dyes which don’t require water or saving energy or having fair trade and so forth. But at the and of the day are we being sustainable in terms of a systems-thinking, sustainability in term of true ecosystem–in terms of supporting peoples traditional skills and supporting cultures and communities.”

Appreciating the intricate and skilled process of making clothing is vital to make informed decision as wearers. It’s looking beyond a label or tactical marketing campaign. For example, looking beyond just buying organic cotton or made in the U.S.–although these are great clues to guide consumers on how to shop better–it’s a whole system approach, and not it’s individual parts. Aristotle and Wendell Berry know “The whole is greater than the sum of its parts.”

But there is no right or wrong way. Every designer and fashion house approaches the making process differently from the time an idea forms to the process of production. And it’s an ethical process we are seeking. It’s a spectrum of ethics and you need to decide yours to develop a more meaningful attachment to clothing again.

The heart of the issue is it’s about time we start building a fulfilling relationship again with our clothing. But can we really have a relationship with an inanimate object or is the relationship about the one with ourselves?

For all the tragedy which arose within the fashion industry in 2013, there was so much beauty that opened as well. 2013 saw some amazing steps for a more ethical fashion community. Like Nike’s Maker app geared toward designers that beautifully visualized the resource consumption of different textiles. Bib + Tuck, an online site to swap clothing. And Zady, an e-commerce platform dedicated to telling the story of the makers.

Fashion allows us to express our identity and put forth a sense of self. And through what I’ve seen, we are developing a new passion for clothing. Not one that is based on greed and vanity but one reflecting of values, quality and character–a new type of luxury. Clothing is damn hard to make and people are connecting with the beauty and craft of that process, just like we saw with food. “And that is what is so excited to me, clothing is amazing.. and the more you now about them, the more you know about how they are sourced, and the more fulfilling your relationship with them is,” says Cline.

What I had to realize about fashion, and where I think we are heading, is understanding the complexity of our clothing.

“It is about having personal relationships, it is about having transparency, and involvement of your supply chains,” says Godfrey.

So where is sustainable fashion heading in 2014? First, it is knowing there is no difference between sustainable fashion and fashion. In the end we are taking about clothing and expressing ourselves. Next, we are getting closer to a stronger relationship with the clothing we wear, and the story of how they are made.

Our loudest vote is our dollar. And 2014 will continue to shift the market as we put our money where our values lay. Nothing is perfect and everything is a process, but education is key to a brighter future. Ethical fashion champion Vivienne Westwood‘s words always ring in my mind “Buy Less. Buy Better. Make it Last.”

Here’s to 2014.

image: Juliette Donatelli

Related on Ecosalon

4 Sustainable Fashion Films: The Power of Storytelling to Captivate and Convince

Between The Lines: From NYFW to the Garment Factories of Pakistan

Keep in touch with Juliette on twitter @spadesandsilk

The post Where is Sustainable Fashion Headed in 2014? appeared first on EcoSalon.

Ecover and EcoSalon Celebrate Green Closet With An Eco Fashion Sweepstakes!

Amy DuFault — Mon, 01 Oct 2012 15:42:43 +0000

Join EcoSalon and Ecover as we head into October with a sweepstakes that celebrates your Green Closet!

Ecover tells us: “As you know, one of the elements of Green Closet is all about stopping the clothing rotation: buy good quality clothes and keep each item longer by taking good care of them.”

At EcoSalon, we are all about slow and conscious consumption when it comes to clothing, so we are more than happy to collaborate with Ecover to promote their Green Closet sweepstakes.

What’s the deal? Well, one very lucky and randomly selected Grand Prize winner will take home a stunning prize package that includes fashions from celebrated Green Closet designers Auralis Herrero-Lugo of Auralis and Tara St. James of Study, NY, an eco-styling session with Green Closet supporter Greta Eagan of FASHIONmeGREEN, a signed copy of Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by fashion expert Elizabeth Cline, and of course Ecover laundry products that will help you keep your favorite clothes sustainably fresh and well cared for – a total value of more than $600.00.

Auralis Ava Top (pictured above): This is the top for all seasons. 100% silk crinkle chiffon with an iron oxide splatter. Made in NYC. – $128 plus an Auralis Hannah Scarf (below): Indigo with Tumeric shibori accents. Perfect as a beach cover-up/sarong, a picnic blanket or a winter scarf. 4 feet x 4 feet. Fabric – crepé plisé: 37% Silk, 35% Hemp, 28% Organic Cotton. Made in NYC. – $80

Study, NY Berry Blouse (pictured below) – 100% organic cotton blouse with open back in the winner’s choice of white or pinstripe. Made in NYC – $165

An online eco-styling session with Greta Eagan of FASHIONmeGREEN (pictured below). This 1.5-hour session includes: an overall style assessment, defining of personal and professional goals in dress attire, evaluation of five different outfits from the winner’s closet, and eco-fashion integration into their shopping knowledge and habits based on their personal values. – $200

One copy of Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth Cline which talks about “fast fashion” and the price we pay for not shopping sustainably. -$29.99

One each of the following full-size Ecover products (below), plus 2 reusable shopping totes approximated value $51

Now that you’re probably screaming at your screen “How do I enter?!!!” here’s how:

We want to see either a photo of a favorite garment that you have owned for 5 to 10 years and/or a brief description of why your beloved garment is so special to you.

To enter, “like” Ecover’s Facebook page and click on the sweepstakes tab under their cover photo. You will be asked to upload your photo and/or brief description, as well as your contact info. The sweeps ends on October 14, and the winner will be selected by random drawing on October 15th.

Good luck!!

If you are interested in learning more about Green Closet, go here.

The post Ecover and EcoSalon Celebrate Green Closet With An Eco Fashion Sweepstakes! appeared first on EcoSalon.

Join EcoSalon Tonight in NYC For a Fashion Week Kick-Off Party!

Amy DuFault — Thu, 06 Sep 2012 14:09:20 +0000

See you tonight!

Join EcoSalon and the Textile Arts Center in Manhattan, tonight from 6:30-9:30, to kick off New York Fashion Week. Talk and shop with over a dozen designers over a Conway Family Winery chardonnay, The Naked Grape Harvest Red and Cabernet Sauvignon, FAIR vodka cocktail or Zhena’s Gypsy Tea and learn about what sustainable fashion means in the midst of a fast fashion crazed society.

Elizabeth Cline, author of Overdressed, The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion will also be on hand to sign copies of her new book. All purchases the night of the event come with an eco-beauty gift from La Bella Figura, Kahina Giving Beauty, Olie Biologique and Stark Skincare (while supplies last!).

Francisca Pineda will also be on hand to promote her ethical fashion abroad program working with indigenous artisans from the Talamanca region near Puerto Viejo.

Shopping, organic cocktails, a little fashion education and a healthy dose of some of your favorite EcoSalon writers? You’d be crazy not to come and join us!

Current designers available to shop tonight include:

EkoLab
Afia
Carrie Parry
Ambika
Erin Considine
Laura Seigel
Adrienne Antonson
Ilana Kohn
A.D.O
VOZ
Kyler Jewelry
Jess Rizzuti Handbags
Pick-Up Stitch
Soham Dave
NYC Fair Trade Coalition

We look forward to seeing you!

The post Join EcoSalon Tonight in NYC For a Fashion Week Kick-Off Party! appeared first on EcoSalon.

Come to EcoSalon’s NYC Party and Help Kick Off Fashion Week!

Amy DuFault — Wed, 29 Aug 2012 20:52:43 +0000

Not just a fashion party, a sustainable fashion party.

Join EcoSalon and the Textile Arts Center in Manhattan, on September 6th from 6:30-9:30, to kick off New York Fashion Week. Talk and shop with over a dozen designers over a Conway Family Winery chardonnay, The Naked Grape Harvest Red and Cabernet Sauvignon, FAIR vodka cocktail or Zhena’s Gypsy Tea and learn about what sustainable fashion means in the midst of a fast fashion crazed society.

Francisca Pineda will also be on hand to promote her ethical fashion abroad program working with indigenous artisans from the Talamanca region near Puerto Viejo.

Shopping, organic cocktails, a little fashion education and a healthy dose of some of your favorite EcoSalon writers? You’d be crazy not to come and join us!

Current designers available to shop the night of the event include:

EkoLab
Afia
Carrie Parry
Ambika
Erin Considine
Laura Seigel
Adrienne Antonson
Ilana Kohn
A.D.O
VOZ
Kyler Jewelry
Jess Rizzuti Handbags
Pick-Up Stitch
Soham Dave
NYC Fair Trade Coalition

We look forward to seeing you!

The post Come to EcoSalon’s NYC Party and Help Kick Off Fashion Week! appeared first on EcoSalon.

Author Interview: Elizabeth Cline of Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion

Amy DuFault — Tue, 21 Aug 2012 18:00:46 +0000

What’s the true price of your wardrobe?

With all the fashion books out there to choose from, it’s hard to see a front runner you should spend your time with. Enter Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth Cline. While Cline has been equated to “the Michael Pollan of fashion,” we put her on the platform of pioneer.

From fashion victim to educated consumer, Cline takes us on a retail journey the likes of which we’ll never walk the same again. We caught up with her recently to see what she had to say about the state of the fashion industry. Here’s what she had to say.

Is there any original fashion out there anymore?
Totally. I think we’re looking for originality in the wrong places though. Fashion trends happen now on a global level, and change
constantly, and ironically we look to clothes bought off the rack at a chain store to make us feel unique. Think about women in the 40s and 50s. Even though they were all wearing a similar style, many of those dresses were one-of-a-kind and reworked from season to season. I think even today customization is the key to making your wardrobe your own. This could mean having shirts altered that you buy off the rack, refashioning pieces in your closet from previous seasons so they feel fresh, lobbing off sleeves, taking up hems, adding or removing embellishments, and dyeing shoes and garments new colors. I bought a gorgeous sleeveless blouse recently from an independent designer. And the first thing I did was take it to a tailor and have the buttons repositioned, so I could wear it open at the top. Now that top feels like it’s mine and a reflection of my style.

There was a part in Overdressed where you mention the American apparel industry might “benefit from copying” with consumer demand and appetite so voracious. What are the implications of a statement like that?

The industry benefits hugely, because trends are essentially copies of a specific style and trends sell clothes. So the industry profits from copies. That said, I think the pace of fashion has become maddening to a growing number of consumers, partially because of rampant copying. Trends are changing too fast, paradigms of style are being recycled too quickly. The whole game of fashion feels arbitrary and pointless now, and on a personal level, it’s frustrating.

Have we become a mentally ill society that we need so much clothing to fill a void or is it just a really unhealthy addiction? Maybe these are the same…

I think the industry has trained us to shop this way. As the fashion industry became more corporate and consolidated, in order to increase their profits, they slowly erased the detail and craftsmanship of clothes and made the materials shoddier as well. They were erasing our collective knowledge of what clothing could be. Now it’s just a label, a price point, and a trend. To our credit, it took consumers several decades to be convinced that they no longer wanted to own beautifully made clothing and to make them forget that $20 does not in any way buy a well-crafted garment.

Do you think thrift shopping is on the rise because people are looking for cheap or are more people understanding the need to reuse?

I think it’s more so because people crave uniqueness in their wardrobes. We live in a world where it’s quite common to see someone else in the exact same top or print that we’re wearing. It is human to feel repulsed by that. I think vintage better satisfies our need for self-expression and to not feel like our individuality is for sale.

You talk about vintage becoming a “rich person’s sport.” Talk about that.

Sure. Basically, the quality of new, store bought mass market clothing is going down. The materials being used are getting thinner and lower grade, the trim like buttons and zippers are lower quality, the sewing is less refined, there are fewer details. All of the things that we love about vintage clothing are basically missing from store-bought clothes today. Because we’re not making a lot of “good” clothing right now, and the good clothing that does exist is insanely overpriced, the vintage market is becoming more overheated and over-picked, which pushes the price of vintage up.

H&M is kicking off a new chain in Europe but at a slightly higher price point. How do you think this will effect the fast fashion shopper?

I’m more concerned with how it’s going to affect independent designers, who are already struggling to produce clothes ethically and in smaller batches and to sell them at a price consumers are willing to pay. H&M distorts consumers price expectations. They’re able to sell clothes priced below their competitors because they’re a huge corporation with thousands of stores. They order their clothes in high, unsustainable volumes, etc. So, I think that whatever price point H&M sells their higher-priced clothes at is in danger of becoming the price consumers think designer/higher-end clothes should be sold for. It becomes the “fair price” in consumer’s minds, which is quite frightening.