West Elm, at the moment, will not find many fans in Brooklyn thanks to its ‘Made in Brooklyn’ snafu. 

Under fire for its “Made in Brooklyn” line of products, the retailer was recently outed for misleading consumers with products that, in reality, are not produced in Brooklyn. One item, West Elm’s “Made in Brooklyn Market Beanie,” is actually made in China.

This ambiguous labeling, which was revealed by The Brooklyn Paper earlier this week, carries significant repercussions for artisans and purveyors who specifically choose to conduct business in Brooklyn. Love it or hate it, Brooklyn is officially the it-girl of the five boroughs. It’s a proud moment for those who call it home and have built an enterprise on the foundation of its local economy, many of whom perceive West Elm’s “Made in Brooklyn” line as both a financial and personal blow. Such vendors are said to have largely influenced the Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce’s Brooklyn-Made certification program.

“As baseline criteria,” read’s the program’s Web site, “only legal businesses headquartered in Brooklyn making one or more physical products will be considered.”

West Elm, which has since removed the China-made beanie from its online store, is attempting to discreetly sidestep the impact of its “Made in Brooklyn” line on businesses that have actually met Brooklyn-Made’s certification requirements. Rather, the language is described by a company spokesperson as “a fun nod to the potential contents” of products like its beer growler.

The Williams-Sonoma-owned franchise is hardly the first of its kind. With Brooklyn having earned such an esteemed reputation in recent years, dozens of brands are rushing to put its name on various items of clothing. Last November, the New York Observer ran a piece on the desperation among big-name companies to be hip enough to fit in with the borough. Such outlets “can’t just waltz into a neighborhood anymore, least of all a Brooklyn neighborhood,” writes Kim Velsy. “No, now you must be yourself but also ‘Brooklyn.’”

The prevalence of evasive product-naming and Brooklyn-branding was a hot topic among panelists at the recent Social Retail Summit in the borough’s DUMBO neighborhood.

“I know for a fact that it’s very widespread,” says Gaia DiLoreto, founder of By Brooklyn, a Cobble Hill boutique strictly carrying products from local producers. “I’m always challenged with how to confront it. My mission is to promote and protect the brands…that I’m working with.”

DiLoreto, who advised the Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce in developing Brooklyn-Made, cites the example of the Brooklyn Candle Company, whose candles, she says, are actually made in China.

The commonality of this practice raises the broader question of corporate transparency. Arnon Rosan, co-founder and CEO of referral platform LocalMaven, points to Chipotle’s recent elimination of pork products from the menu, due to the inhumane treatment of pigs by some of its vendors. These stories, he says, are “a lesson to all retailers.”

Rosan isn’t the only one who sees positive outcomes from West Elm’s actions. Its public nature, adds DiLoreto, will “make people think twice” before buying something mistakenly identified as local.

Consumers are far from powerless in these situations and can follow some general guidelines to ensure that their purchases are, in fact, local.

1. Check the label. In the case of West Elm’s “Made in Brooklyn Market Beanie,” all it took was a re-examination of the product’s tags.

2. Do five minutes of research. The Brooklyn-Made program follows in the footsteps of such similar efforts of SF Made and Portland Made. A quick visit to the Web sites provides a listing of the businesses that have met each program’s certification requirements.

3. Talk to retailers. Ultimately, business owners and managers are the most knowledgeable when it comes to product sources. Brooke Richman, founder and CEO of Coop & Spree, makes a point to know her vendors. “I’ve had the opportunity to actually go to the factory and see where everything is physically made,” she says. “I know that the integrity is there.”

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Image: Jeremy Keith

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Versatile basics with edgy details, easy-to-walk-in wedges and an extra-roomy bag are a New York City girl’s best friends.

There’s no doubt that New York City girls have a certain edge to their style. It’s all about basics with unexpected details – and yes, black. Heels are a must and wedges keep things comfortable. And always carry a big, stylish bag – because who has time to go home before the night begins?

Alkemie Ruler Bangle
Although it’s handmade in Los Angeles, this bangle is cast from a vintage NYC-approved ruler (possibly made in Buffalo, NY). It’s made from 100% reclaimed metal and adds just the right amount of unexpected quirk to an outfit.
$154, Alkemie 

Alpaca Slouch Hat by Mayu
A hat is a must for New Yorkers in the winter — to protect ears from sub-zero chills. This slouchy hat is hand-knit with 100% Peruvian Alpaca fiber and made according to fair trade principles.
On sale for $50, Mayu

NYC Necklace
You know you’re proud to be a New Yorker. Show your love for the Big Apple by wearing this necklace, made in Brooklyn from old, recycled records.
$38, Teich 

Thieves Armour Skirt
This high-waist fitted skirt is made from hemp wool suiting (45% hemp, 40% wool & 15% tencel) and covered with beeswaxed organic cotton, which gives it a great “aged leather” look. Definitely not your average pencil skirt, this one brings a fresh supply of attitude.
On sale for $173.25, Thieves

Crewneck Sweater by Edun
This sweater by Ali Hewson’s Edun is a sexy, edgy alternative to the ol’ cashmere basic. The strategic pattern of the knits keep it from becoming too revealing. We all know we need to leave a little for the imagination, right? Wear it to work underneath a blazer and on it’s own for a night on the town.
$312, Juno & Jove 

Sabine Triangle Bag by The Sway
Every girl in NYC needs a big bag that can easily go from day to night and will hold anything from heels and workout clothes to lunch boxes and reading material for the subway. This bucket-style messenger bag is extra-roomy and has both double shoulder straps and a removable cross-body strap. It’s made from soft upcycled patchwork leather and lined with The Sway‘s signature Aboriginal-inspired organic fabric.
$490, The Sway 

Millenium Black Wedges by OlsenHaus
These 100% vegan wedges by OlsenHaus are made from ultra suede and faux leather and feature a blonde pine wooden wedge heel. The mix of materials keep things interesting and the wedge heels ensure that you can walk the entire length of Manhattan if need be.
$300, OlsenHaus 

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Let your inner green girl shine through in delicious shades of olive.

Green is gorgeous, I think we all agree on that. For a shade that will look great on anyone and go with anything, try donning delicious hues of olive. Pair with other jewel-tones for a personal take on the color-blocking trend or with blacks, grays and browns for a more subtle look.

H Fredriksson Dolman Cardigan
This 100% Alpaca Hand knit Dolman Cardigan is Fairtrade and organic, made in Bolivia in a small mountain village women’s collective. It’s the warmest softest fiber around, and you can wash it in the machine.
$396, H Fredriksson 

Hearts of Darkness Possess Slit-back Bootie
The tonal mix of faux leather and suede bring distinction to these vegan booties. A slit detail in the back brings some added flair. Also available in black, gray and chocolate. Made in an ethical, sweat-shop free factory in China.
$130, Cri De Coeur 

San Isabel Necklace by Green Diva
This sweet little necklace is made with Fair Trade recycled glass, Fair Trade Tagua nut and 100% recycled sterling and fine silver chain and findings. Green Diva Jewelry is a member of 1% For The Planet, which means they donate 1% of their profit to environmental causes.
$95, Green With Glamour 

Begonia Clay Organic Cotton Tank Top by IDEO
This tank top is a great a wardrobe basic, but pretty subtle tone on tone sparkle details on shoulders make it a little more fun. Ethically made in India under fair labor standards using SKAL certified production processes using ECOCERT label Organic cotton and water-based, PVC-free dyes.
$23, Fairtribe

Mujus Piel Ring
This ring by Brooklyn and Lima – a Peru based earth-friendly company – uses the intricate patterns of the bark from the Tagua seed as a design element. Each ring has a unique shape making each of them one of a kind.
$25, Mujus 

Pendleton Portland Collection Shorts
These hot, little shorts from Pendleton’s Portland Collection will look great now with tights and by themselves as the weather gets warmer. Details like slanted pockets at the sides, zipper and button closure and belt loops make them even more gorgeous. Made in the USA from 100% virgin wool.
On sale for $89.60, Kaight 

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Shannon South gives vintage leather jackets and pants new life as sexy handbags.

Made from used leather clothing and scrap material, Shannon South’s ReMade in the USA collection of bags is a great way to make a fashion statement while keeping your conscience clear. The amount of clothing that gets sent to landfills every year is staggering, The Fiber Economics Bureau reported that the average American throws out about 68 pounds of textiles per year. The Council for Textile Recycling found that of this waste, only about 10 pounds per person is recycled. Giving tired old leather jackets and pants a new life as gorgeous handbags seems like a great way to boost that recycling number.

If you want, you can even send in your own old, no-longer-loved jacket and South will transform it into a bag based on one of her current designs.

South studied at The Royal College of Art in London, and earned a Masters in Industrial Design at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, New York. After graduating, she lived in the Netherlands for a while, working with internationally acclaimed designer, Marcel Wanders, who taught her the value and beauty of “the story” in design. South also spent time living in Oslo and Copenhagen, places that greatly influenced her design work and aesthetic.

After moving back to the United States, South started designing bags. She was, however, deeply troubled by the process of sending CAD drawings to China and having her bags mass produced. She decided that the only way she could feel good about what she was doing was if she used only repurposed materials and manufactured locally.

She went to Goodwill, found a leather jacket, studied the details and let them guide her design process. She fell in love with the result and “quickly became obsessed with studying old jacket details and seeing them on bags.” Thus, ReMade USA was born. Last year, she packed up her studio in San Francisco and moved to New York City. All of the bags are now made by hand in South’s studio in the Brooklyn Navy Yard and at a handful of her manufacturers in Manhattan.

Shannon South at work in her studio

The main material South uses is leather, but she also works with everything from used denim to vintage doilies, and the bag linings are all made from vintage scarves.

“Repurposing materials is a very thoughtful process and it means that every object made is unique,” says South. Because she works with an existing garment rather than a piece of leather or fabric, South has to constantly adapt her basic designs to work with the details of that particular garment.

“No two jackets that I find are alike. Each one must be deconstructed and design decisions must be made. My patternmaking has to be smart and creative, fitting within the constraints of the given material.” For the customer, this means that even though you choose between basic styles from the collection, no two bags are alike.

For this new collection, South decided to include pieces made from vintage fur.

“I’ve wanted to work with vintage fur for quite a long time and mink is something I was drawn to for its luxuriousness,” she says. “I came across a vintage stole, which I made my first samples with and loved the results. The combination of mink with the buttery soft leather is beautiful.”

Fur is a pretty controversial topic within ethical fashion, something South is fully aware of. “I would never endorse using new fur, but there is a lot of old fur that has been hidden away for several years and is out of style.”

iPhone & iPad cases made from reclaimed leather and vintage mink fur

One of my favorite things about the new collection are the brass detailings that can be seen on some of the bags. This was inspired by one of South’s old studio neighbors, Fay Andrada, a metalsmith who uses brass as her medium.

I interviewed Shannon a few years ago, as her first ReMade USA collection (which was picked up by Barneys) was coming out so when putting together the lookbook for this new collection, she asked me if I would model the bags for her, which I was of course happy to do. We spent an afternoon in South’s Brooklyn apartment with photographer Evan Browning and what came out of it is what you see here.

All ReMade USA bags are handcrafted in New York City

Shannon South’s vision has remained constant from the start, even though she has now added jewelry and home accessories to her line.

“I see reMade USA as part of a back-to-basics, holistic approach that is in line with the way I try to live my life. It sees beauty in the past, praises a lifestyle of ‘making do’ and has a deep appreciation for things that have been cultivated by hand — be it tomatoes from a garden, a piece of wood from a salvage yard, or a bag that has been hand-crafted from an old jacket. In the end, I am trying to lead a life of authenticity and responsibility, doing what I love and attempting to be as good as possible.”

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