Greenwashing is plenty common, from Tom’s Shoes to H&M’s Conscious Collection; companies take advantage of the fact that customers don’t take the time to research the supply chain of each brand, since ain’t nobody got time for that. There’s no equivalent to USDA organic certification for fashion, so how can you be confident you’re buying clothes that are in line with your values? Here are 7 clues you can use to tell if you garment is really sustainable; keep an eye out for them, and check out the many companies linked to below for an eco fashion crash course.  

1. Made in the USA

Supporting the domestic economy is key, especially when the outsourcing wave of the 90s was the way to go. When a brand makes their product in the US it is sustaining our domestic manufacturing community. Companies also have to adhere to minimum wages and more strict environmental regulation that reformers and activists worked to put in place. Often, if a company still produces in the US there’s a good story behind it too, and they want to share it with you. Are there still unethical companies making clothes in the US? Sure, but it’s a lot less likely, and we do have laws on our side here.

2. Ethical Production

There is often a disconnect between a garment and the hands that make it. The apparel industry is one of the only industries that cannot deflate its labor force through the use of machinery (the New York Times recently published a fun interactive graph of this phenomenon). A machine can’t sew a beautiful dress or make a great pair of shoes; you need human hands and heads involved. With that knowledge, it’s crucial that those that produced the clothes you wear wear paid a fair wage and worked in a safe environment. Companies that practice ethical production usually make it known on a garment’s hangtag or on their website.

3. Company Transparency

Now, I am not taking about H&M revealing their factory list, although yes, that was a small step for the mass market. I’m referring to companies like Honest By and Everlane who aren’t hiding anything, and they want to to know about it! Studio Jux owns a factory in Nepal, and each garment is given a number by which you can trace the maker of that piece (and even learn their favorite past-time) through their website.

4. Zero Waste

Companies like Stabel, Study NY, Titania Inglais, and Tabii Just are championing zero waste by respecting the materials they work with and not wasting resources that went into making the fabric go in a landfill.  Zero Waste Cutting techniques often a new level of creativity to already creative designs.

5. Clean Tech

No one textile is sustainable, because like all things in life, each have their positive and negative impacts. Organic cotton, although grown under strict regulations, is often still bleached, meaning a heavy chemical load after it’s been finished. Fabric made of bamboo and cupro is processed with toxins to transform the cellusoic (hard plant fibers) into the soft final product, and has to be called rayon. But Lyocell, also a regenerative cellulosic fiber (in english, meaning comes from a plant) derived from Eucalyptus trees, are processed with a petrochemical solution, but 99.5% of the cocktail is captured and reused, and uses little water in the process, proving some technology can really affect the environmental bottom line of a fabric. Keep an eye on what your garment is made of.

6. Supporting Artisans

Ever travel to another country and were googly-eyed by the native colors and craftmanship in their markets? Companies like Mercado Global, Blumera and Maiyet know no one does it better than indigenous artisans. When companies work with local artisan communities (rather than copy them) you can be sure your fashion is sustaining less represented communities.

7. You Love It

Stuck in a hypnotic trance in front of your closet? I know I was this morning. A sustainable garment above all is something you always grab first from your drawers. It’s your tried and true closet staples that you’ll keep, and make it last (almost) forever. And that’s the core of eco fashion.

image: Maiyet

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If you made it through the holiday season without accumulating hoards of stuff, congratulations, you’re ahead of the game. Since those well-meaning Mayans and their oooh the world is going to end prophesy left us a little, shall we say, not-entirely-disappointed, there’s much to look forward to in 2013. And credit that brush with the apocalypse for resetting many of our personal and collective priorities. I mean, we could have been obliterated by an errant asteroid, magnetic pole shifts, or a vengeful race of aliens…and the fact that we somehow survived has lightened the load a little, even if just slightly. Perhaps you’ve begun to notice this lightness by finding more meaning in experiences rather than things. Or maybe you’re taking more time to smell those roses…You’re in good company, as you’ll see a lot more emphasis on experiences as well as a few other important eco options trending this year. Read on for our top eco trend predictions for 2013.

1. Quality: The word quality has come to mean the same as “expensive,” “indulgent,” even (gasp) “elite.” But that’s not accurate. While high quality items may often be more of an investment, they’re worth it. In fact, I’m calling it: the word “quality” is going to be this year’s new black–no matter what color it comes in. You’ll see a lot more emphasis on making quality investments in a number of areas—be that in your food and health choices, products, services or experiences. There are more reasons than ever to stop choosing the cheaper items that soon end up in landfills and cheaper quality foods that send our bodies into downward spirals. The healthier we are, the less likely we are to feel those impulses to buy poor quality products in the first place. Choose quality.
2. Less: Like the upturn of quality, we’ll also start to see a lot more…of “less.” Whether that’s our own personal commitments to purchasing fewer items, or eco-minded businesses thinning out their offerings, 2013 will see a growing number of conscientious approaches to better uses of resources emphasizing less of an impact on the environment (such as fewer transport miles for food), and just how much more there can be in a whole lot less.
3. Local: Quality + Less in many cases = Local. This growing trend is most noticeable in our food supply: farmers markets, CSA programs, community gardens, etc. Interest in local food will continue to grow and 2013 will also see interests in local business like credit unions instead of large banks, small retailers instead of big box stores and my personal favorite: the staycation.Cheaper and less stressful, people are going to enjoy more local parks and attractions getting to know and adore their local community.
4. Fracking Out: Thanks to celebs like Mark Ruffalo and Robert Redford, along with the movie Promised Land, fracking is a trending topic. (So much so in fact that it toppled “climate change” in Google searches last year.) If you don’t know what fracking is yet, here’s a little 101 on its effects on our environment and our health. Be on the lookout for more activism opportunities and campaigns to stop this environmental nightmare.
5. Non-GMO: Another source of activism is genetically modified foods. A contentious issue for some time, the failure of California’s Prop 37 measure in November  led to a number of viral Facebook campaigns and a groundswell of DIY labeling on foods suspected of containing GMOs. More brands, retailers and restaurants will be featuring non-GMO labeling and ingredients for better health and a safer environment.
6. Eco/voluntourism: Everyone needs a little time away. But it doesn’t have to come at the expense of the planet or regional communities. So be on the lookout for eco resorts and tours when planning your next get away. Even working vacations such as volunteering on an organic farm or helping to plant trees in deforested areas are becoming quite popular. Experiences like these are not only memorable, but they can teach you great skills that can dramatically improve your quality of life.
7. Co-op housing: Cooperative living is nothing new, but it’s trending more than ever right now says Oz Ragland, a co-housing expert. That may be because of the sluggish economy in recent years, but it’s also incredibly beneficial on the environment (9 people use my kitchen!). It also provides support and safety as well as creative and inspiring opportunities.
8. DIY: Homesteaders and urban farmers have taught us a thing or two in recent years about how to eat, and now you can look for more cottage industries in fashion, personal care and the art world ala Etsy. And mirroring that rise is a robust DIY culture emerging ever so rapidly and earnestly. Sure it’s great to support a small-scale producer, but even better when it’s you.

Keep in touch with Jill on Twitter @jillettinger

Image: Pink Sherbet Photography

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