Because Spiral Hams are so 1970.

It’s Easter again and I’m planning to treat myself and guests to some cured trout. To cure trout I use the same method and ratio as when I make traditional Scandinavian gravlax. The recipe below is plain and simple. Not much more is needed for this delicate treat, but if you want to try something different you can add other flavors. Elderflower, ginger, crushed juniper or a shot of aquavit work really well. The list is endless.

Besides salmon and trout you can use this same method to cure other types of fish. Mackerel is an excellent option, and Keiko over at food blog Nordljus cured a good looking seabass with a scent of licorice. As I love licorice, I decided to add some toasted fennel seeds to my cure this Easter, which I think will go really well with the mild trout flavor.

For curing:

• 1 kilo (2 lb) trout fillet
• 1 teaspoon freshly milled white pepper
• 4 tablespoons salt
• 4 tablespoons sugar
• Bunch of dill
• Toasted whole fennel seeds (optional)

For decoration:

• Fresh dill
• Lemon

Note: The trout should be frozen one or two days before you start the curing. The freezing will eliminate unnecessary bacteria.

It’s not hard to fillet the trout yourself. The benefit is that you can use the remaining parts (except for the guts) to make an excellent stock together with bay leaves, carrot, celery, onions, dill stalks, and some herbs like thyme, salt and pepper.

If you still think this is too messy, ask your fishmonger to fillet the fish for you but remind them that the skin should be left on.

When you have your fillets ready, rinse them in some cold water and pull out any remaining bones with a pair of pliers.

Mix together salt, sugar and pepper. Rub the fillet with some of the mixture and sprinkle the rest on top of the fillets. Wash the dill and chop finely. Put the fillets together, meat against meat with the chopped dill and (if you like) some toasted fennel seeds, slightly crushed, in between. Wrap the fish in plastic foil. Let the fish cure in the refrigerator with something heavy on top for 48 hours. Turn them now and again.

After two days, unwrap and clean the fillets. Start to slice the trout at the end of the fish into thin diagonal slivers using a fillet knife (or any other suitable knife). Garnish with some dill branches and slices of lemon. They can be served on toast or dark bread. However this fish is sensational on a thin “knäckebröd” topped with a drip of Hovmästarsås. Enjoy!

Hovmästarsås

Stir together 3 tablespoons mustard, 1 egg yolk, 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon brown sugar with plenty of chopped dill. Slowly start dripping in a little less than a 1/2 cup of olive oil into the mixture while stirring continuously (just like you make mayonnaise). If you add the oil too quickly the mixture can separate. The result should be a thick sauce. Season with salt and fresh ground pepper.

Before buying any fish check with Seafood Watch for the most sustainable options.

Illustrations by Johanna Kindvall

The post Recipe: Cured Trout for Easter appeared first on EcoSalon.

Moroccan cooking inspired by the streets of Marrakesh.

The best tagine I have ever had is the one I cooked myself while attending a cooking class in Marrakesh, Morocco. It’s probably also the only proper tagine I have ever had. Raja (the cook), who really did most of the work that day, also led me carefully and demonstrated every step in how to make traditional Moroccan dishes such as salad, Berber bread and chocolate-layered semolina pancakes. I watched and learned. Smelled and ate. It was absolutely my best day in Marrakesh.

The day started at an indoor market in Mellah (one of the neighborhoods inside Medina) where I could pick meat and vegetables for the cooking lesson. The market had everything from meat (even live chickens), vegetables, bread and milk. We got some beef, carrots, zucchini, tomatoes, potatoes, chili and olives for the tagine and some apricots, eggs and dark chocolate for desert.

The salad we made was really simple and fresh. Just finely chopped onion, cucumber, yellow pepper and tomato. Seasoned with a splash of olive oil, salt and freshly chopped mint.

The beef tagine was cooked in traditional ceramic tagine cookware on low heat for about three hours. At the bottom we arranged onions, garlic and chopped fresh cilantro. The cookware was placed on the stove and the heat was set to low. The meat was placed on top and spices (ginger powder, cumin, paprika, salt and black pepper) were added at the edges around the meat. When the meat had been turned once, we arranged carrots, potatoes, zucchini, one whole chili, ½ lemon, olives and parsley on top. Lastly we poured in a mixture of both olive and sunflower oil. Before the tagine “hat” was placed on top, a little water was added. Now and again we scooped up the cooking liquid and poured it over the vegetables and meat. In this way all ingredients got a nice taste of the spices without moving them around.

The Semolina Berber Bread  we made was baked on top of the stove in a skillet. In Morocco, bread is  served with almost any meal during the day and a must when having tagine. Raja’s recipe used only semolina flour but I stumbled upon some breads in the city that seemed to have a mixture of semolina and wheat flour. Unfortunately they were not as nice. Our local deli (a hole in the wall) in Kasbah sold something that looked like a rye version of the bread.

The sweet dessert semolina pancakes were really the thing that won my heart and also something that was new to me. These pancakes should not be mistaken for the more well known pancake, begrhir. Begrhir is a yeast based semolina pancake that is often served for breakfast with honey. These pancakes are baked on only one side and the yeast create decorative holes on the surface. Raja’s dessert pancakes were sweeter and made with baking powder. They create similar decorative holes but are baked on both sides.

Below I have tried to translate Raja’s semolina pancake recipe as best I could. Raja used a typical Moroccan teacup when measuring the ingredients, so her cup measure was slightly less than a standard measuring cup. My recipe is as close as I could come!

Sweet Semolina Pancakes
Serves 2-4 people

One egg
½ cup sugar ( I used sucanut)
½ cup milk (+ more if batter is too thick)
¾ cup semolina
One teaspoon baking powder
¼  sunflower oil (optional)*

Zest from one lemon**
One teaspoon ground cardamom**

I don’t really remember the order Raja mixed the ingredients together but I did it this way: Whisk egg and sugar until well blended before adding the milk. Mix together semolina flour and baking powder. Add the semolina mixture to the batter and whisk well together (make sure there are no lumps). Add the oil, lemon zest and cardamom. Let the batter rest for 15-30 minutes before baking the pancakes.

Heat up a frying pan with some neutral oil (if using nonstick you don’t need any oil in the pan). When the pan is hot lower the heat to medium. Spoon up some batter in the pan with a sauce ladle (You may need to add more milk to the batter if it’s too heavy. It should be fairly easy to pour into a pan). When the pancake has nice decorative holes and starts to get firm on top, flip the pancake over. The other side should now have a nice brown color. Press down the pancake with your spatula so the pancake doesn’t rise. Continue until done. Repeat until batter is finished.

It may take some time to get used to how much batter you need for every pancake. A finished pancake should be about 1/8” thick.

Serve the pancakes with sour cream and seasonal fruit and berries for breakfast or brunch. I loved it with a simple apple & orange fruit salad spiced with mint and chopped pistachio. The pancakes can also be done as Raja’s desert, layered with melted dark chocolate (she added some neutral oil to the chocolate) and topped with fresh mint and fruit of your choice. Serve it cool when the chocolate is firm.

*Raja used some neutral oil in the batter and fried the pancakes in a non-stick frying pan. As I didn’t use a non-stick pan I learned that the pancakes got a little greasy with oil both in the batter and in the pan.  They still tasted great but got firmer and easier to handle with oil only in the pan.
**Raja didn’t flavor her pancakes with cardamom and lemon, instead she used 1-2 teaspoons vanilla sugar. I just didn’t have any at home when re-creating the recipe. Both versions are equally delicious.

If you planing to go to Marrakesh and want to participate in a cooking class, I can warmly recommend Raja’s class. Contact Jean Peres at Riad Dar One for details and booking.

Illustrations by Johanna Kindvall

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Warm up cold winter days with a glass of Glögg.

With or without snow there’s not too many things as heart warming as glögg (Swedish traditional mulled wine) around Christmas. The rich smell is so welcoming it’s no wonder it’s such a successful way to treat your friends. Last winter I had to warn my guests that even though the wine was served hot it was not low on alcohol.

Like other Swedes I’m used to buying glögg already spiced at the Systembolaget, which is the one and only company that can sell liquor in Sweden. Systembolaget has an impressive selection of wine from all around the world and they have over 40 different kinds of glögg, both with and without alcohol. There is even a white glögg which is commonly served cold as an apertif at parties around Christmas. With a selection that great it’s hard to even think of making your own unless you’re a Swede living abroad. Being one of those people, I started making my own and can’t ever imagine going back. At Christmas I want my own glögg. And the glögg has to be done with some drama by caramelizing the sugar.

Glögg

One bottle of red wine (a decent full bodied wine such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah)

Spices
3 cinnamon sticks
One teaspoon whole cloves
One teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 orange peels
5 whole cardamoms
One small piece of ginger, chopped
20 raisins
A couple of dried figs

For caramelizing
one cup (240 ml) rum
1/3 cups (75 ml) brown sugar

To serve with
Blanched almonds
Raisins

Heat up the wine but be careful, the wine should not boil. Drop all the spices into the warm wine, turn the heat off and let rest covered for at least 4 hours (best overnight).

Sieve the spices from the wine and heat it up in a saucepan. Again make sure it doesn’t boil. In the meantime prepare a stainless strainer filled with the sugar. When the wine starts to get hot, place the strainer over the saucepan. Pour the rum over the sugar and light the alcohol steam below. Let some of the sugar drip into the wine mixture before adding to the wine (if you wait for all the sugar to melt, the alcohol will disappear with the flames). Take the saucepan from the heat and cover with a lid to stop the flames. If you think the glögg is too sweet you may add some more wine or rum.

Serve the glögg in small cups together with some blanched almonds and raisins in every glass. Glögg is also great with gingerbread cookies.

Illustrations by Johanna Kindvall

The post Glogg: Swedish Traditional Mulled Wine appeared first on EcoSalon.

Why go with just plain chocolate cake when you can add a hint of mint?

This summer in Sweden I was unhappy to find out that the small local egg farm up the road had closed down. I wasn’t sure why, and it all seemed odd as there was one rooster left, who was crying out loud, and sadly. Then one day, I spotted a mother sow in a field close to our house. She was proudly walking around in the mud with her new born piglets all around her. The farm also had free-range chickens, ducks and lambs. I was happy again.
The second or maybe third time I came there, the lady of the house said she had run out of eggs. I asked if I could order some for later that week.

“It’s impossible,” she said.

At a farm like theirs you can’t predict how many eggs the hens will provide. Some of the hens had also started to sit on their eggs. I felt both happy and sad at the same time. Sad that I had to walk home empty-handed and happy that someone listens to a hen’s nature instead of my craving for eggs.

“Oh well,”  I said and was about to leave when she said:

“I have duck eggs. They are great if you are making sponge cake.”

I went home and made the best Sticky Chocolate Cake I have ever made.

Sticky Chocolate Cake with a Bite of Mint

2 eggs (or one large duck egg)
1 cup sucanat*
4-6 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Valrhona)
one teaspoon salt (less if using salted butter)
one cup milled almonds
4 oz butter
about 5 drops of peppermint extract**

some mint leaves (for decoration)

Whisk eggs and sucanat together in a bowl. Stir in the milled almonds, cocoa powder and salt. Drip a few drops of the mint extract (or essence, see below). Stir around and adjust with more mint to your taste. Add the butter and stir until smooth. Pour the mixture into a greased 9” spring form.

Bake the cake in the oven at 350 F (150°C) for about 15 minutes. The cake should just be set on top and sticky inside. Let the cake cool down. Decorate with some fresh mint leaves and serve as is or with some whipped heavy cream.

If you don’t like mint in your chocolate you can easily switch it to something else. Anna Brones here on Ecosalon spices her Sticky Cake with cardamom and serves it with a cranberry orange salsa. If you are craving for more chocolate this Chocolate by Brand over at David Lebovitzlist will keep you busy.

* Sucanat is a brown sugar type extracted from sugar cane. Its perfect to bake with and gives cakes and cookies a richer taste. In the US you can often find Sucanat in organic shops. If you can’t find sucanat you may use muscovado sugar or even regular brown sugar instead. When I’m in Sweden I use farin sugar which works really well too.
** I couldn’t find mint extract so I made an essence by soaking mint caramels with a shot of vodka over night.

Illustrations by Johanna Kindvall

The post Sticky Chocolate Cake with a Bite of Mint appeared first on EcoSalon.