Diane Morgan knows salmon. “Salmon: Everything You Need to Know + 45 Recipes” is her second book on the subject, and when you’re through with it, you too will be an expert on everything from its life cycle to how to choose it to how to cook it.

When it comes to superfoods, salmon often tops the list: rich in omega 3 fatty acids, vitamin B12, vitamin D and selenium, salmon is one of the top choices if you’re trying to add fish to your diet. But I’ll admit I’m a bit of a skeptic when it came to testing so many recipes for salmon in this book — after all, salmon has such a distinctive flavor. Wouldn’t it feel like eating the same thing over and over again, no matter how it was prepared?

My doubts were unfounded. Not only are the recipes in this beautiful book each unique, they also each offer keys to preparing salmon so that its many attributes are highlighted, particularly its rich flavor and unctuous texture.

Recipes range from simple to complex. On the easier end of the scale is the crispy pan-seared salmon with summertime succotash, which is a quick and easy dish for a weeknight. Here is where Morgan’s expertise truly shines: not only do the vegetables become perfectly cooked in under five minute (I was pleasantly surprised), but the technique for cooking the salmon is one I’ll carry over to other dishes. With the salmon skin dredged in flour, the salmon fillets are pan-seared to perfection: crisp and caramelized on the outside, and tender and just-barely cooked through on the inside. The salmon was moist, tender, and flavorful, and it paired perfectly with the succotash, for which Morgan offers several different variations depending on what vegetables are in season.

The salmon Caesar salad was included in the book as a recipe for using up leftovers: a fairly classic Caesar topped with a piece of leftover grilled salmon. Full disclosure: I cooked up the salmon the same day, as I didn’t have any leftovers, but even with the preparation of the salmon, this recipe is easily made in under 30 minutes. The dressing had a bit too much pungent olive oil taste for me — in the future, I’ll cut it with a bit of grapeseed oil — but the traditional Caesar dressing, complete with a raw egg and anchovy, was easy to make and very flavorful.

One pleasant surprise in this book was the potted salmon recipe. Recipes for pâtés and terrines often seem like too much effort to attempt at home, but this recipe was easy to prepare and so deliciously worth the effort. The salmon fillets are slow-poached with shallots and butter and then processed with smoked salmon and lemon juice, both of which cut the richness of the butter and the fish. This is my new favorite appetizer for dinner parties, served simply with fresh bread, or as canapés topped with a few salmon roe eggs for something a bit more special.

The runaway winner in my household was the salmon bibimbap, a Korean-inspired dish of vegetables, salmon, and a fried egg served on a bed of rice. Often, bibimbap recipes seem a bit persnickety, as each vegetable needs to be prepared separately. While Morgan’s recipe also uses this technique, there are just enough vegetables — bean sprouts, spinach, carrots, and shiitake mushrooms — to have optimal variety without dirtying 15 pans. Morgan also offers the ideal order in which to prepare the vegetables to minimize dirty dishes. The flavor that comes about when each vegetable is prepared and seasoned to perfection is sure to get this dish onto my weekly dinner rotation.

The takeaway from this book: don’t be afraid of what seems like a unitasker in the kitchen. This book will help you introduce healthy salmon into your diet in a myriad of delicious ways. The proof: I ate salmon four nights in a row, and I hardly noticed.

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Salmon image via Shutterstock

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Living in the Northwest, salmon is close to my home – and heart. That’s because the salmon restoration issue in the Northwest isn’t just about conservation. Like many other environmental issues, it’s also about jobs and the economy.

In fact, salmon fishing brings tens of millions of dollars into the regional economy each year, representing thousands of jobs. But because of salmon declines in the Columbia and Snake Rivers over the past three decades, over 25,000 jobs have been lost.

Just how much salmon decline are we talking about? During the time of the Lewis & Clark expedition up to 16 million salmon returned each year. Nowadays, that number is in the range of fewer than ten thousand fish. Salmon and steelhead are both endangered species but according to scientists, salmon runs would be restored by dam removal.

Dam removal is a contentious issue, and for the last 15 years a national coalition of conservation organizations, commercial and sportsfishing associations, businesses and river groups have been in litigation against the federal government to ensure protection for the endangered fish. Dam removal is part of the protection advocated for by the plaintiffs and regional fisheries biologists.

Last Monday, I went to the Portland Courthouse with Save Our Wild Salmon to listen to the latest in this process.

U.S. District Court Judge James Redden declared that he wants to end this 15 year ordeal, and that a working plan is in sight. But conservationists and scientists are less confident. The science supporting the plan, called a biological option or “biop,” runs counter to the advice of many experts from the Forest Service, Department of Fish and Wildlife and the American Fisheries Society’s top scientists.

“We scientists believed the President when he said he would protect science and strengthen the ESA, but secretary Locke and Dr. Lubchenco have seemingly allowed political pressure to circumvent a decision based on sound science,” said Bill Shake, retired Assistant Regional Director for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Judge Redden has asked lawyers to supply written briefs next month to help him arrive at a final decision.

Photo credit: pfly

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We need to save our oceans, and quickly. The most recent and widely cited report on fisheries predicts a complete global fisheries collapse by 2048 and asserts that ninety percent of large fish such as tuna and swordfish are already gone.

Other than the people using seafood wallet cards and reading eco-blogs, does anyone care?

In a 2008 report on the US Marketplace by Seafood Choices Alliance, chain restaurant operators report that only 22% of their customers are concerned about the environmental condition of the oceans. According to retailers, 25% of their customers are concerned. They better start caring because all-you-can-eat shrimp platters might not be the only casualty of the coming catastrophe. All life on earth depends on the health of the oceans. Even ours.

Not surprisingly, if consumers don’t care, few retailers and restaurants will take action because, after all, their job is to give consumers what they want or to go out of business. If retailers and restaurants won’t take action, neither will the wholesalers. Only 37% of retailers decided not to sell a certain seafood because of environmental considerations, according to a 2007 survey.

The terribly sad thing about this nearly imminent collapse is that it’s preventable. Though pollution, ocean acidification, and global warming all play a part, overfishing is by far the largest problem. And the most fixable. According to the book Bottomfeeder, we are vacuuming the bottom of our oceans clean.

We need a multi-pronged plan:

1. Consumers (and that means everyone) need to step up and push retailers and wholesalers to do the right thing. The power of the purse truly is a force to be reckoned with, but it has to be collective to work.

2. Governments need to cooperate on regulations and enforce fishery quotas.

3. New policies need to be put in place to protect fisheries.

Point 1: How do we get consumers to care? I truly believe that people would care if they only knew how bad it was. It’s not in the seafood seller’s business plan to let their customers know. That’s why I believe in-your-face tactics like some of Greenpeace’s recent campaigns can be really effective. Their ability to raise consumer awareness can push retailers to do the right thing.

Greenpeace’s recent brilliant attack on Trader Joe’s is a case in point. They used the attack, Twitter and humans dressed as giant orange roughy outside the stores to protest Trader Joe’s sales of endangered fish. The campaign was barely out of the gate before Trader Joe’s announced it would follow Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch recommendations for purchasing seafood.

Then there was the protest against the high-end Manhattan Restaurant, Nobu. It got a lot of attention, including in the New York Times.

Lamely, Nobu chose to leave the fish on the menu but to tell customers that it’s endangered and they should choose something else.

Less well-publicized, Greenpeace also puts out a seafood scorecard that allows consumers to assess how well their favorite supermarkets do in terms of sourcing sustainable seafood.

Another novel idea is that of consumer supported fisheries. Or Seafood CSAs: These seem promising from the point of view of supporting the smaller scale fisherfolk and keeping them in business. Such schemes, though great, are likely to be adopted by so few people that they won’t make a huge difference in the future of our oceans on their own.

In addition to consumer-focused efforts and campaigns, other ideas are being floated to help save our oceans. In order to do away with what is called the tragedy of the commons, some fisheries experts and governments (including ours) are proposing a privatization plan that provides individual transferable quotas that fisherfolk bid for. The logic is that everyone will have a vested interest in conservation. The plan does seem to have worked in some places. But I suspect, as usual, the devil is in the details. Critics say that such a plan will force smaller fisherfolk out of the game in favor of the large fleets that cause most of the destruction in the first place.

Up until now, governments have been lousy at cooperating to save our fisheries and oceans. The problem with global trade is that everyone has to commit to supporting bans on certain types of equipment or fishing moratoriums on certain species. That is slowly changing. The Pew Environmental Group recently formed a coalition dedicated to reforming the EU’s Common Fisheries Policy.

And even more recently, France’s President Sarkosy announced his support for a ban on the sale of bluefin tuna. The British fisheries minister joined the ban, and more are likely to follow.

It’s clear from all of this, that everyone needs to do his or her part. How can you do yours? Here are six easy recommendations:

1. Educate yourself about what is sustainable and what isn’t. Try reading a book on the subject. The wallet cards such as Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch cards are great, but a subject as complex as this deserves further study.

2. Know the big three. The three most popular types of seafood in America are also the most environmentally problematic – salmon, shrimp and tuna. Stay away from farmed salmon and eat wild salmon as a special occasion food. Find out where your shrimp was farmed or caught. If it’s really cheap, you probably shouldn’t eat it. Most species of tuna are endangered and high in mercury, too. Enjoy the small species (such as skipjack) if they are hook and line (not long line) caught, and only once in a while.

3. Give that supermarket sushi a pass. It’s full of cheap tuna, salmon, and shrimp. See above.

4. Develop a love for sardines, both canned and fresh. They are great for you (full of Omega-3s), are low on the food chain and are abundant.

5. This is the hardest one. You have to spread the word. Remember, people don’t know this information, so you have to tell them. It’s hard to talk to people about their food choices without being seen as an annoying, judgmental killjoy, but find a nice way to tell your friends and family members that they might want to lay off the canned albacore or treat it as a special occasion food.

6. Be Hopeful.

Further Learning:

End of the Line
Bottomfeeder
A Good Catch
Cod: A Biography of the Fish that Changed the World
Fish Forever
Seafood Lovers Almanac

Image: Jonathan Assink

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