Mainstream fashion media and corporate-sponsored design houses continue to shun environmental progress.

Fashion week has always been an exciting time of year for the fashion industry. It’s an amped up version of “Project Runway,” where designers scramble to present the most eye drawing collections, fighting every other designer showing for the attention of the press. It’s a lot of work, a lot of hype and the best man or woman wins orders from Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales, or maybe even a capsule line at Target or H&M if they’re really lucky. Innovation is heralded and beauty is showcased as fashion struts its stuff to show the ordinary people how to dress exceptionally.

So if this is the case, why does Ralph Lauren’s Runway Collection, season after season, get the New York Fashion week cover of WWD and raving reviews from all the fashion press? He literally designs the same retro looks year after year: 1920-30’s, Great Gatsby-esque, horse riding get ups for the rich. Feather boas? Have you ever seen anyone in public pull that off without looking slightly ridiculous? This is what the fashion industry heralds as innovative, new and headlining.

The fashion press applauds loudest for the very same fashion houses that do the most advertising. Coincidence? Imagine if an oil company donated hundreds of thousands of dollars to a politician’s campaign and they just happened to be in the same business that the politician fought to give special tax breaks to. This is the exact same way the mainstream fashion industry runs: donations and lobbying, also known as paying for advertising.

The Business of Fashion pulled from a Guardian article, quoting Alexandra Shulman the Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue saying “Vogue makes most of its money out of advertising — and it does make an awful lot of money — so we’ve got to have a good relationship with our advertisers. They’re not going to place £100,000 a year and then say ‘Feel free not to use any of our goods’  — life’s not like that. So although there is this feeling sometimes that creatively it’s not pure, well magazines are a business, you’re not sitting there writing poetry.”

Marrying Sustainable Fashion With Mainstream

While the mainstream fashion press is busy paying lip service to old school fashion house’s fat wallets, they barely acknowledge that sustainability for the future of fashion means a lot more than traditional press and sales. Outside of the advertising winner’s circle, there are plenty of designers, press, and bloggers who acknowledge, report upon, work for and really do see the change of the sustainable design community’s efforts.

Even Oprah has something to say about it. Yet the fashion industry doesn’t want to outwardly acknowledge the shifts going on towards sustainable consumerism perhaps from a fear because they’re afraid that following, or even promoting ethical and sustainable business practices would mean a few things:

1.  The admittance that things have been and continue to be done unethically in almost every step of the process.

2. The end of days for business processes that are comfortable, which might equate to a loss of sales and/or jobs for people who don’t know how to evolve.

3. Quite possibly the end of all the excess that is fashion week because it would require focusing on doing things based on a whole new model.

Eko-Lab, A/W 2011

Melissa Kirgan co-designer for sustainable label Eko-Lab asks why sustainable fashion and mainstream fashion need to be two separate entities when they both ultimately share the same goal: to sell a product.

“No matter how ‘green’ or ‘sustainable’ a design is, if it is not bought there is no business. For us at Eko-Lab the number one important focus is to make an amazing product, our beliefs and ethics are to be valued as building blocks in the heritage of our brand.”
Yet Kirgan relays her own story of a trip to Bendel’s Open Call to present her line which was an eye opening moment for her and partner Xing-Zhen Chung.

“When we presented our product it was well received and we were given many complements, when we began to share the origin of our fibers and their organic qualities there was an instant change in tone and we were told that was not their customer,” says Kirgan, adding that while fashion is glamorous, it’s function is to create an illusion of how the wearer wishes to project themselves to the world.
“While sustainable design appears to still suffer crunchy connotations. If you must make these into two groups (mainstream vs. sustainable) then sustainable design is going to need way better branding.“

Better Branding and Changing Existing Fashion Industry Models

Every sustainable designer has had to look in the mirror and face the need to reinvent the wheel. When it comes to the fashion business, no matter what, designers (sustainable or not) are still adding to a massive waste stream. If we actually believe fashion can be a platform to stop planetary, environmental, and health degradation, it’s going to consistently be a painful reinvention for designers to go through, (especially if they like the idea of a steady paycheck and health insurance). Very few eco-designers make it after two years. 

This might also be why you don’t see most eco-designers, showing up at the Lincoln Center Tents, (which cost $20,000 a runway), where every season the “notable” designers present with a new and cheerful line of must have items.

Are there designers who support and propel a healthy future that the population would rather hear about? Of course, but the only way most people might see them is if they go searching for it outside of the daily barrage of advertising. Even with Oprah’s blessing, the eco-design world is considered “the fringe,” not something that appears regularly on mainstream fashion’s radar. But even with their “fringe” status some of these designers are somehow staying in business, making a huge impact, and offering consumers an option to opt out of the game of Fashion Monopoly that no one but the big corporations win.

Stewart + Brown

Howard Brown of Stewart+Brown is one of those designers and says the ethical fashion movement needs to remain true to its core mission; to lead by example and shift the paradigm toward sustainable business and production practices.

“Opportunistic grandstanding and hollow gestures from the fashion establishment do nothing meaningful to change the status quo yet compromise the mission and integrity of the ethical fashion movement. The path towards sustainability does not pass through fast fashion retailing. Remember what Bucky Fuller said, ‘You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.'”

Image: MokeSDoke

The post Corporate Fashion Still Monopolizing Progress For Indie Designers appeared first on EcoSalon.

Six L.A. designers get ready to ship their fall ’11 to boutiques worldwide. We get a sneak peek.

Internationally recognized designers Karen Stewart and Howard Brown have been pioneering the sustainable fashion movement for nearly a decade now. Inspired by their love and respect for nature, their Fall 2011 collection draws on the nomadic lifestyle of keeping only what we need and value. This parallels their own belief that we should buy only quality items we absolutely love and that will last for many seasons.

In addition to extending their popular pima and luxe organic cotton collection, this season the duo are also offering four Mongolian Cashmere styles and have added a novelty group of 100% organic cotton French terry and 100% organic cotton polished twill, unlike anything currently in the marketplace.

I. Ronni Kappos

For the past nine years, jewelery designer Ronni Kappos has been creating memorable one-of-a-kind pieces from her collection of vintage glass, most of which was made in Germany during the 1920s, 30s and 40s. Her work has been featured on the cover of Rolling Stone  and in several television shows, but her proudest moment was giving a piece to Marc Jacobs at a red carpet event, which he wore for the remainder of the night.

Recently influenced by Native American Indian themes, Kappos has incorporated diamond weaves, totems, and feather-like hoops into her Fall 2011 collection. We will continue to see a ton of color with this collection, as well as flat geometric shapes, flower shapes and more pendants.

LAVUK

Emerging sustainable designer Natasha Gindin is proud of the fact that LAVUK clothing is sweatshop free and made locally in Los Angeles. In addition, for every garment purchased, a tree is planted on behalf of the California Wildfire ReLeaf program.

Her Fall 2011 collection, Infinity, is influenced by the linear symmetry and crisp angles of the Art Deco movement, and was designed with closet longevity in mind (to be worn an ‘infinite’ number of times). Gindin has chosen to stick with jewel tones, intended to evoke an inner connectivity to one’s youth, something she personally achieves through Tibetan meditation.

Popomomo

Over the past couple of years, designer Lizz Wasserman has created sustainable collections inspired by the environment and art: from melting polar ice caps and exile in the desert, to photography and Russian constructivism. This time, Wasserman has been inspired by literature, particularly L.A’s “bad-girl” author of the 70s, Eve Babitz, and the recent Patty Smith memoir.

Playing with shape and proportion, this season we can expect to see some oversized and fitted pieces, longer silhouettes and warm, saturated colors.

Mi Capri

Mi Capri, designed by illustrator Carrie Perlow, is a footwear collection which is as uniquely fashionable and artistic as the people who wear them. Her fall ’11 collection is called Old School Meets the New Wave, and each pair is hand crafted and manufactured in and by LA’s most talented cobblers and artisans whose skills have been honed over generations. The designer says “It’s for people who like catching the new wave first.”

FROCK Los Angeles

Designed for a woman who exudes confidence, glamor, sex appeal, and independence, FROCK Los Angeles ­­is an emerging sustainable ready-to-wear line from designer Victoria Tik. Her Fall 2011 collection combines vintage glamor with contemporary style, and features several fitted pieces with sexy scooped backs.

Top Image: Stewart + Brown

The post Sustainable Los Angeles: Fashion Pioneers And Emergents appeared first on EcoSalon.

Two new eco-commerce sites offer discounted fashion and beauty brands.

JP Selects, an exclusive, new membership-based sale site for socially aware, fair trade and sustainable products – think Gilt gone green – will be working with many brands in the fashion space starting June 16th, including Nialaya Jewelry, Stewart+Brown, L’uvalla skincare, Calleen Cordero accessories, and Hype Clothing. An added bonus to members who sign up before the June 16th launch is a three-day spa vacation at the Amangiri Eco-Resort in Southern Utah.

Started by John Paul DeJoria, co-founder of Paul Mitchell and Patrón Spirits,  the products available at JP Selects are aimed at helping shoppers live a more socially and ecologically responsible lifestyle, from fashion-forward clothing, to unique jewelry, luxe beauty products, artisan-produced foods, and premier home décor.

The site will introduce one new brand every weekday at a promotional price that lasts 72 hours. After the introductory offer, products will always be available in their branded online store. Each new brand is also represented in a short documentary-style video, to help shoppers get to know the brand a little more.

“I believe success unshared is failure,” says DeJoria “I want to share my success with good people that sell great products while promoting a sustainable future and good business practices.”

Launching today is LovingEco, a members-only, social commerce platform, that offers innovative conscious products at exclusive price points (up to 70% off retail), without compromising style. Starting today, look for Cri de Coeur, Stewart + Brown, English Retreads and Eko Miko, and soon to come, expect to see Clary Sage Organics,  Eberjey, Happy Endiings, Leaky Collection, Margaret Rowe jewelry, Novica and Souchi.

Through a series of “limited-time and brand-specific sale events,” subscribing consumers are given the opportunity to access and shop for sustainably designed, fair trade and natural products at a discount.  Each sale features brands, which are hand-selected and available on a first-come, first-serve basis.  Additionally, 3% of net proceeds from each purchase is donated to the current ‘tastemaker charity’ to help support a social or environmental cause.

The post Two New Eco Commerce Sites On Our Radar appeared first on EcoSalon.

Favorite t-shirts from designers around the world.

T-shirts. They tell the world what we think, offer up artistic canvases, and make people laugh when they pass us by.

We have drawers full of them, our favorites worn beyond repair, each one imbued with a story that makes us love them even more. Because at some point you’re going to need another, we’ve compiled a list of some of our favorite graphic tees to replenish stock. Small, indie brands and well known sustainable designers are all here, with the common thread being they’re organic and graphically pleasing.

We know you’ll like.

FluffyCo’s premium apparel line unites organic cotton and eco heather blends printed with FluffyCo’s signature graphic prints. Printed in small batches in the Bay Area, some using water–based inks. All styles have a fabulous soft, luxe feel and hand–printed hangtags. Yes, these are alligators.

FIN is a Norwegian high fashion label producing designer womenswear in a sustainable manner. When we caught site of this fairy tale-based organic tee we were more than smitten.

L.A. based Stewart +Brown have a few great t-shirts like this Tipi Tee. Designers/founders Karen Stewart and Howard Brown are “inspired by their love and respect for nature and a passion for design.” Hard to pull off great collections and infuse them with a few great tees but we can always count on them for it.

Meow. This digitally printed t-shirt from Wiloh combines not just the pairing of cats and space, but bamboo and organic cotton in a deep scoop neck.
Designed by London based fashion and lifestyle blogger Mademoiselle Robot. Wiloh was launched in July of 2010 as a way to promote environmental and social awareness through sustainable street wear and has teamed up with Kids In Distressed Situations (K.I.D.S.), a charitable organization that reaches out to help children affected by natural disasters and poverty, to form a “Tee For Tee” initiative. Every t-shirt sale is matched with the donation of a specially-designed t-shirt to a child in need.

Famed for her high-impact slogan tees, Katherine Hamnett is best known for her political t-shirts and her ethical business philosophy. Having a Hamnett tee is like having a piece of history in your wardrobe.

The Orphan’s Arms is an English label “That harks back to a time of gin, palaces, poor houses and executions. King George IV is on the throne and Paris Hilton upon the public tongue.” Though not a 100% sustainable line, they have a fun selection of hand printed organic t-shirts to peruse.

Loomstate celebrates 41st Earth Day with a limited edition run of super soft graphic tees that includes this one. Launched in New York City in 2004 by designer Rogan Gregory and Scott Mackinlay Hahn, Loomstate was founded as a casual brand dedicated to creating demand for certified organic cotton using socially and environmentally responsible methods of production. They do an amazing job.

Boa is an Istanbul-based eco fashion label that stands out from their pack thanks to their commitment to organic cotton, and their whimsical hand-drawn illustrations.

Look For Fiddleheads is a Chicago based line that inspired by the art and writings found in very old books and bound newspapers from 1832-1845, that belonged to designer/illustrator Lee Tracy’s grandmother. We love all the witty designs that are as artistic as they are thought-filled.

Mociun says on their site that they “Explore and integrate the ever-emerging technologies and critical conceptions of sustainability; environmentally healthy production; and, as a type of de facto jouissance, the role of, and the products available to, the individual consumer in society at large.”

We appreciate their gift of supplying us with interesting product.

Blondes Make Better T-Shirts is one of the funniest lines I’ve seen in branding, admittedly at the expense of us brunettes and redheads. This one reads: “Help Global Warming. Donate a Swimming Noodle to a Polar Bear.”

The post The Best Graphic, Organic T-Shirts appeared first on EcoSalon.

Stewart + Brown’s Marrakech Dress is more than just a floor-length stunner.

I have felt this dress and it is luxuriously soft and this Stewart+Brown Lustable will be mine.

Comes in creme as well as the ever-sultry black and allows you to channel Moroccan high tea, desert winds and romantic interludes with tall, dark strangers.

Yes, clothes can do that.

Editor’s note: We are proud to bring you original columns and feature editorials at EcoSalon on a daily basis. But sometimes, nothing’s more pleasurable than admiring a beautiful, innovative or special sustainable product or idea. Throughout each week, look for “lustables” in the mix here at EcoSalon. And if you have a product you think readers should see, drop us a line at tips@ecosalon.com.

The post Lustables: Marrakech Dress appeared first on EcoSalon.

Our series on Dumbing Down American Design, has afforded us opportunities to catch up with some really interesting people. Our final installment is no less attractive, interviewing both Howard Brown of Stewart+Brown and Davora Lindner, co-designer of Prairie Underground.

For the last time we revisit the driving question: Has our quest for convenience and rock bottom prices forever altered fashion and is American design becoming a thing of the past?

When it comes to American design, two top designers in the sustainable design field, Davora Lindner of Prairie Underground and Howard Brown of Stewart+Brown both stand out.

Brown, whose mother owned a boutique in Missoula, Montana for 30+ years says she taught him that fit was everything.

“It took us a couple times to get our sizing right but now we know exactly who we’re designing for,” says Brown, whose being raised around people trying on clothing has only helped Stewart+Brown when it comes to a base customer fit.

Today, 93 percent of Stewart+Brown is U.S. manufactured in L.A. facilities while the other seven percent – including knits – is outsourced to China, (what Brown calls our own ignorance in letting the knitwear industry fade away stateside).

But why China? “Why not?” Brown says. “People need to be very careful with their preconceptions of China. I think it all comes down to racial stereotyping and elements of ignorance based on headlines and media,” he adds. “In China, people are protesting over environmental degradation and unfair labor practices and getting shot and killed for it. We need to be supporting those people,” he says.

Brown is pretty outspoken about his line and manufacturing practices and with good reason. “When we first started out, there was no way to track the supply chain, it was uncharted territory. The easy solution would’ve been to just go the conventional route but we thought we’d use the opportunity to raise the bar on sustainable production and design,” Brown says, adding that thanks to today’s “conscious consumer,” who buys from lines like Stewart+Brown and Prairie Underground, they can do more than exist, they can thrive.

Davora Lindner co-designer of Prairie Underground says her label’s “hardscrabble approach to getting things done through hard work and keeping our hands busy,” has enabled Prairie to stay afloat just fine in the U.S. and almost completely in Seattle, WA.

“Local production is an extension of our work ethic and pragmatism, but it was also a choice and a political stance. Aside from the fact that we had no experience producing overseas, we wanted to produce our collection locally and were willing to work within that vernacular to make it a possibility,” she says, adding that it seems “bewildering and out of touch” to have production take place so far away.

Though disturbing to her and design partner Camilla Eckersley that fewer things are made in the United States, owning their own business also meant conscious choices to manufacture as well as design domestically. “Our responsibility now is to sustain the momentum and we feel an obligation to provide meaningful work for our subcontractors,” says Lindner.

Like a lot of independent designers Stewart+Brown and Prairie Underground’s business template was influenced by previous work experience.

Prairie co-designer Camilla Eckersley’s experience working for companies in San Francisco as a production sewer later evolved into a position of a production manager and after additional training she became a designer and pattern maker. “The companies she worked for all produced domestically so this was what she knew and became the basis for our company,” says Lindner. “I come from a background of a fine artist who made things by hand and learned new techniques at community art centers, networking at supply stores or in dialogue with other artists,” she adds.

Lindner’s grassroots approach has paid off and like in Brown’s L.A., there is a lot of micro-manufacturing happening all over Seattle for her to tap into.

“Our contractors work within 20 minutes of one another and some know each other or have employed the same sewers. They appear as pioneers in their neighborhoods and they operate more like small businesses than huge factories,” says Lindner.

While Prairie Underground and Stewart+Brown hold tight to their supply chains and do their best to keep all design in the U.S., Brown offers his best advice to an overlooked part of this whole series: the consumer. “Educate yourself. Dig deeper and look at the big picture all around you. Being a conscious consumer and supporting brands that support sustainability is the only way we’re going to win this battle.”

Top image from Rob Lee

The post Dumbing Down American Design, Part 4 appeared first on EcoSalon.

The party parade of 2008 seems to have a much mellower mood than recent years, most likely due to the trying times we’re facing. My company “toned down” this year’s soiree (a.k.a. spent less money), but fun was still had by all. Rather than get all dolled up in suits and fancy frocks, we wore our work attire with an added sparkle here or there.

A simple party calls for a simple slip of a dress. Stewart + Brown‘s aptly named Party Dress is just what this season ordered. It’s subtle and leaves plenty to the imagination, showing just enough skin to be tempting. The neckline is square but the back plunges loosely, while the waist is cinched with a single tie. Made of 60% hemp and 40% silk, it has eco written all over it. We expect nothing less from Stewart + Brown! Available in sizes 2 through 8 at Beklina for $220.

Be the life of any party, or at least the eye candy, with this simple dress.

The post A Party Dress for Any Party appeared first on EcoSalon.