Pop star and fashion icon Gwen Stefani’s new fashion collection replaces jeans with eco-friendly non-denim options.

Almost everyone loves jeans – most of us wear them at least a few times a week. But Gwen Stefani has ditched jeans to the wayside, and is offering the rest of us the chance to do so as well. The fashion icon has teamed up with denim guru and co-founder of 7 For All Mankind, Michael Glasser, to come up with a collection aiming to replace those beloved jeans with chic and comfortable denim alternatives made from eco-friendly tencel fabric.

Stefani is launching the collection under the name DWP, which stands for Design With Purpose, showcasing a stylish and casual chic trousers. All items are made out of tencel, a silky and naturally wrinkle-resistant material which can be coated, treated or dyed to give it a denim, leather or cotton look with less environmental impact than treating denim. The super comfortable and well-draped trousers are adorned with details like asymmetrical zippers and rolled cuffs, channeling Stefani’s personal sense of style. The whole collection is manufactured in Glasser’s factory in Vernon, CA, making it local and ethical, as strict regulations and labor rights are strongly enforced.

When Stefani and Glasser originally joined forces, they had planned on creating a sustainable, eco-friendly, luxury denim line, but decided on the DWP luxe sweatpants, jumpsuits and drapey tops version as soon as their Neiman Marcus buyers expressed how over the five-pocket jean they’ve become by now. We agree that the outcome is far more favorable, and will be perfect for upcoming spring and summer weather and showing off cute ankle boots and strappy sandals.

You’ll find DWP’s full 18-piece collection in stores this spring, where prices for the brightly colored tops and dresses, printed and patterned trousers and jumpsuits will range from $150-200. It’s more than many people spend on casual clothing and simple basics, but a fair price considering the local production, sustainable materials and ethical manufacturing practices involved in the creation of each piece.

Images: WWD

Related on EcoSalon

Fiber Watch: Tencel the Tenable

Now and Then: The History of Denim

What Exactly Is Eco-Friendly Fashion?

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Are biobased synthetics environmentally sound or just as bad as their petrochemical alternatives?

How cool would it be if cities could produce polyester from their own biofuel made from residents’ food waste? What if large companies could begin to implement systems that managed entire supply chains, ensuring a clean and fairly produced textile? What if we could develop schemes where we could always recycle or easily compost anything we produce, and eliminate landfills?

Biobased synthetic textiles like Tencel, Modal, and corn and soy fabrics have become a heavily invested area of research and development in modern textile experimentation in the more than $400 billion textile industry. Recent technologies have provided a platform for manipulation of natural plant matter, producing engineered textiles that are essentially considered “natural” as they are derived from plants. This chemical manipulation has allowed fiber and textile producers to come up with amazing, high performance materials that are especially sought after by the sportswear and outerwear industries. Although made from the fiber of trees and plants, can these manipulated textiles really be considered natural?

Scientists and developers at various fiber producing companies have been experimenting with manmade fibers made from cellulose since 1980. Cellulose is an organic compound that makes up 33 percent of all plant matter, and is commercially derived from natural sources such as wood and cotton. Manmade cellulose fibers are usually spun and woven into the fabrics commonly known as rayon viscose, however, the chemical processing used to produce conventional rayon is very energy intensive and wasteful. Often made from bamboo nowadays, rayon viscose manufacturing consists of a process using approximately 13 toxic chemical solvents, as verified by reports from SRI Consulting for the chemical industry.

However, scientists have come up with a different method of cellulose textile production. Currently, cellulosic raw materials such as eucalyptus wood, beech wood, corn, hemp, flax and even nettles, are undergoing lab experiments for genetic manipulation and nanotechnology. This means that these plant fibers are changed at a microscopic scale, which allows them to be engineered for high-performance qualities. Various, proprietary production methods for these cellulose fibers have been developed in the last 10 years, which integrate low-impact practices. For example, the production of Lenzing’s Tencel fiber leaches no toxic chemicals into the air or water, and re-uses 99.5 percent of the solvent needed for processing the fiber into a spinnable form.

Tencel, Modal, and Ingeo textiles all belong to the manmade cellulosics group, and have been showing up on the clothing tags at several brand-name stores. These fibers are often spun with other natural fibers like cotton or silk to produce some of the most comfortable and wearable fabrics. Although environmentally sound production processes have been developed, the main issue with these fibers is the land and resources necessary for growing raw material crops. The use of pesticides, water, and energy, along with  soil erosion for cultivation are also issues that can negate positive impacts of a ‘natural’ material. The long supply chain of yarn-spinning, knitting, weaving, dying and garment making that follows fiber production also complicates and effaces much of the sustainability efforts practiced in fiber production, as do the effects of consumer use through washing and wear. Cellulose fabrics do not always accept dyes well, necessitating possible use of harmful chemicals, complicating matters even further.

Another revolutionary, manmade material is plant-based PET, which is a type of polyester. Polyester is conventionally made through refining oil and natural gas but Japanese company Toray has developed a method for producing the fiber from biofuel rather than crude oil. Conventional polyester contains phthalates, or chemicals used to make plastic more flexible, which can leach into our bodies through our skin. Phthalates have been proven to disrupt the normal functioning of reproductive organs, which can lead to early breast development, testicular atrophy and reduced sperm counts.  Toray has worked with biofuel producer Gevo to develop the fiber, which reportedly is made with ethanol derived from sugar cane. Crop cultivation and land management also become issues with this process, although the reduced amount of oil drilling and chemical intensive processing is a great step forward.

There is no doubt that biobased synthetics are more environmentally sound than their petrochemical alternatives. However, unless they prove to be solutions that create new, closed-loop systems for the production of textiles, they only become processes that make a slightly smaller negative impact than our current ones. Instead of growing acre upon acre of sugar cane or corn for ethanol production, engineering and technology could help create solutions that utilize our waste as a resource.

Image: Lenzing AG

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Local craft and cacti meet in Laura Siegel’s NYFW Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

After months voyaging through Peru, Bolivia and India, Canadian designer Laura Siegel uncovered the indigenous crafts of remote villages and local artisans. She also discovered cacti—the succulents that caught her eye and inspired an entire Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

“It was amazing to me how something so bright and colorful as the cacti flowers could grow in such dry, muted deserts,” Siegel tells EcoSalon. From South America to Asia she explored life in the desert and the beauty that exists within it—like the re-purposed black tea waste in Kerala, India used to dye pieces within her collection, or the hand block printing renowned in this region. Farther north, in Delhi, she partnered with a leather smith to stitch her bags into finished pieces. In Peru, she partnered with a group of natural dyers called Eco Tintes, who softly colored the organic cotton and tencel fibers used to crochet pants (below) and knit shirts and sweaters.

From cacti to indigenous crafts, in her third season, Siegel shows range as a designer—fashioning jewelry, designing handbags and creating a complete collection omitting only shoes from her repertoire—a “future dream,” she tells us. With the free flowing nature of Siegel’s compilation, we’d be happy to tromp barefoot through the desert and all. And that’s how she wants you to feel when you wear her designs. “Happy,” she says. “Just happy.”

Designer Laura Siegel modeling her epynomous collection.

More looks we love:

Shoes by Love is Mighty

Images: Jennifer Barckley

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Designer Myrrhia Resneck’s Spring 2013 collection features elegant, flattering, edgy knitwear, sustainably made in California.

One important part of sustainable fashion is local manufacturing, and it can still be challenging to have a fully “Made in the U.S.” fashion line. Oakland-based knitwear designer Myrrhia Resneck of Myrrhia Fine Knitwear has invested heavily in localized production and made it her goal to provide livelihoods in the textile industry in her community.

After one year of production, Myrrhia decided to invest in a Stoll knitting machine – currently the only one of its kind in Northern California – which she intends to use to create a micro industry for surrounding farms and other knitwear lines (NoCal designers, take note).

Myrrhia uses sustainable materials including locally sourced fiber from Northern California and wool and cotton that is sustainably grown and harvested as well as milled into yarn locally. The company is also involved with the Fibershed movement – an organization dedicated to regionalizing fiber sourcing.

In starting her knitwear line, Resneck continues a long-standing family tradition of fashion-related business endeavors. Her maternal great-grandfather started out peddling clothes out of the trunk of a car, her grandfather and great-uncle operated a chain of women’s clothing stores in the Midwest, and, at age 7, Resneck’s paternal grandmother taught her to knit. That same week, she had designed and completed her first project – a pair of green slippers. Fast forward a couple decades and although her focus has changed, that initial passion for knitwear remains.

Myrrhia’s knits and accessories are inspired by “friends and family, technology, and space.” The recently released Spring 2013 collection features patterned maxi skirts, lace knit tops, cropped and boyfriend cardigans, flowing long dresses of scrolling lace and playful short dresses of scoop and boatneck cuts as well as versatile infinity scarfs made of soft, silky knits. The pieces showcase the designer’s sustainability efforts, using fibers like un-dyed organic cotton (grown only 90 miles from Myrrhia’s studio by Foxfibre) and Lenzing Tencel, which is harvested sustainably from Eucalyptus trees.

The pieces are highly wearable, timeless, yet fashion forward. The geometric shapes, lace-like textures and elegantly paired colors work just as well for day as for night. The rich earthy tones and vibrant shades of blue, purple, and teal are universally flattering and goes beyond seasonality to suggest a style of “elegant-femininity-meets-majestic-warrior-goddess nuances.”

We think we can identify with that.

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Have you ever worn a eucalyptus tree?

You may have worn eucalyptus since Tencel, the fiber and fabric made out of eucalyptus wood pulp, is rapidly gaining popularity among big name apparel producers like Patagonia and Topshop. Tencel is classified as a man-made cellulose fiber, meaning that the fibers used to make it are extracted from the cellulose-rich core of the eucalyptus tree, and processed by machine to be made into yarns and textiles.

Tencel is recognized as a very sustainable textile solution because of its superior fabric qualities, biodegradability, renewable resource base, and production process that could be entirely closed-loop.

Eucalyptus wood fiber was originally termed lyocell by the company that created the fiber extraction process, but Tencel has become synonymous with lyocell as it is the leading wood pulp textile product. The producer of Tencel fabrics is Austrian-based Lenzing AG, a company dedicated to developing sustainable and environmental solutions for fabric manufacturing. They have found eucalyptus to be a highly renewable resource since it grows at a rate of 6-12 feet per year, reaching nearly 100 feet within a 10-year period. The eucalyptus trees Lenzing uses are grown on plantations certified as sustainably and responsibly managed to ensure this renewability.

After harvest the trees are turned into pulp that is broken down with amine oxide, a non-toxic solvent that heats the wood pulp until all of its cellulose dissolves. Then the cellulose solution is squirted through a spinneret with hundreds of tiny holes to solidify streams of large molecules into fibers that can be spun, simultaneously releasing the amine oxide. Once the fibers have been spun into yarn, they are washed to remove any solvents, dyed and finished, ready to be woven with nearly any type of fabric to produce a range of high quality textiles.

Academic studies have shown that growing wood for fiber products has a much smaller impact than cultivating cotton, and manufacturing Tencel causes hardly any damage to the atmosphere or environment.  Amine oxide is the only chemical used throughout the entire process of fiber extraction and processing, and has been recognized by the Forest Stewardship Council as “a non-toxic solvent.”

Lenzing retrieves the released amine oxide after the spinneret process and concentrates it through distillation so that 99.5% of it can be re-used. All waste is utilized, such as any of the leftover wood, which is used as bio-diesel to power Lenzing’s internal manufacturing process. Even by-products of the manufacturing process are harnessed and utilized, like xylitol found in the wood that the food industry uses as a natural sweetener.

This entire process renders Tencel a very versatile fabric, and one with superior qualities such as good draping, softness, breathability, moisture-wicking and natural wrinkle-resistance. Tencel is even biodegradable, with several experiments proving that the material can completely biodegrade in under six weeks (one study found it to decompose in eight days) in the compost.

Tencel has also received the Biobased Certification by the USDA’s BioPreferred℠ program that aims to reduce reliance on petroleum based consumption, meaning that the fiber is “composed wholly or significantly of biological ingredients—renewable plant, animal, marine or forestry materials.”

The textile is used for a number of applications such as high fashion, activewear, outerwear, underwear, home textiles and furnishing fabrics. A few months ago, Lenzing released information on innovations in Tencel yarn for denim, which could reduce the amount of cotton used for jeans alongside eliminating the often harmful and water-thirsty processing of cotton-based denim textiles. Kontiki designs bags that incorporate recycled bike tubes and has collaborated with Lenzing by also using their Tencel denim.

Several designers and apparel companies have decided to incorporate Tencel fabric into their garments not only because of its environmental benefits, but mainly because of its amazing qualities as a textile. Patagonia has been at the forefront of utilizing Tencel fabrics, with above pictured Tencel and organic cotton blends becoming a fast favorites. Even mainstream brands like Acne and Free People are adopting the material because of its extreme durability and breathability, while higher end labels like Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, rag & bone and Elie Tahari favor its excellent drape,  softness and applicability for a range of designs from silky dresses to leggings and trousers.

Tencel is not finished or dyed by Lenzing, making the traceability, full impact and knowledge of chemical use in a Tencel garment difficult. However, as the fashion industry begins to understand the long-term sustainability of producing clothes responsibly, we’ll no doubt see the tenacious Tencel staking its claim as a textile of the future.

Also check out:

Fiber Watch: Off Of Wine Bottles & Into Clothing

Fiber Watch: The Bast Is Yet To Come

Fiber Watch: The Sartorial Sting Of Nettles

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A list of the top sustainable designers currently on the fashion scene.

Sustainable fashion has come a long way since its humble beginnings with more and more designers taking chances with fabrics, silhouettes and collaborations. Here we offer you an extensive list of what we consider to be the top designers in the sustainable fashion field.

A.D.O. Organics, New York, NY: GOTS (global organic trade standard) certified fabrics, chemical-free herbal dyes, Fair Trade.

Afia, New York, NY: Sustainable women’s clothing line sourced and sewn in Ghana, West Africa.

Ajna, New York, NY: Certified organic and sustainable textiles, collaborates with indigenous textile artisans.

Alabama Chanin, Florence, Alabama: Slow design, organic fabrics, recycled materials, minimal waste, made by local artisans in Florence, Alabama.

Alder, New York, NY: Part of the Pratt Design Incubator, all made in the U.S., materials sourced locally.

Allison Parris, New York, NY: Recycled materials, end run fabrics, organic silks, made in Manhattan.

Ambika, Catskills, NY: Made from shorn and brushed Angora rabbits on Ambika Conroy’s own rabbit farm in upstate New York.

Auralis Herrero, New York/Puerto Rico: Organic fabrics, promotes sustainable economies in the U.S. and Puerto Rico.

Avery by Wang, Vancouver, Canada: Recently launched, organic cotton, hemp.

Awamaki Lab, New York and Ollantaytambo, Peru: A Peruvian non-profit working with impoverished Quechua women weavers.

Carrie Parry, New York, NY Produced ethically and locally in the New York Garment District, sourcing environmentally conscious materials and textiles supporting artisanal communities worldwide.

Christopher Raeburn, London: Christopher Ræburn has become known for his utilization of re-appropriated military fabrics to create garments that are functional, intelligent and meticulously crafted.

Clary Sage Organics, San Francisco, CA: Clary Sage Organics is committed to using 100% organic or ecologically sustainable products.

Costello Tagliapietra, New York, NY: Uses AirDye waterless technology to create all their prints, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Crop by David Peck, Houston, TX: Manufactured with textiles dyed in the United States and select fabrics imported from fair trade co-operatives in India.

Curator, San Francisco, CA: Made in San Francisco, organic cottons, hemp, minimal waste.

EcoSkin, Los Angeles, CA: EcoSkin uses only environmentally sustainable luxury fabrics woven, dyed and sewn in the U.S.

Eko-Lab, New York, NY: 100% organic materials, natural vegetable dyes, all made locally by New York City artisans.

Elroy, Vancouver, BC: Uses organic cotton, bamboo, tencel, linen, hemp, wild silk, pineapple, wool and upcycled fabrics, manufactured by a small, family-run cottage industry in Indonesia, designed in Canada.

Eva Zingoni, Paris, France: Made in France from recycled materials, limited edition, surplus fabrics from Parisian fashion houses.

Feral Childe, New York City/Oakland, California: Organic textiles, recycled textiles and accessories, made in New York City.

Frei, Chicago: Organic cottons, natural dyes, and locally manufactured textiles.

Gretchen Jones, New York: Sustainable fabrics, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Harricana by Mariouche, Montreal, Canada: Recycled fur, recycled materials.

H Fredriksson, New York, NY: Silk, made in New York City.

Honest By, Antwerp, Belgium: 100% transparent company from production to sales, organic fabric, certified organic wools.

Indigenous, Santa Rosa, CA: organic fabrics, Fair Trade, low impact dyes, free range alpaca.

IOU Project, Tamil Nadu, India: The IOU Project makes unique, handmade, traceable apparel, Fair Trade.

Isoude, Newport, Rhode Island: Made in the U.S.A., silks, hand dyeing.

Juleselin, San Francisco, CA: Created from organic cotton and recycled fabrications, sweatshop free.

Kelly Lane, Pittsburgh, PA: Created from sustainable fabrics, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Koch, Dallas, TX: Sustainable fabrics, made in Dallas and LA.

Lara Miller, Chicago, IL: Multi-functional clothing, organic cottons, hand-loomed bamboo, hemp and vegan silk, made in Chicago.

Lavuk, Los Angeles, CA: Sweatshop free and made locally in Los Angeles with sustainable materials such as organic cotton, tencel, hemp and dead stock silks, multi-functional clothing.

Lina Rennell, Northern California: The Rennell line is an art brand with a heavy focus on original print work, U.S. production, sustainable textiles, craft and high-end tailoring.

Loomstate, New York, NY: Organic cotton, tencel, reduced water consumption, reduced waste, pursuing a closed loop product life cycle.

Loup Charmant, New York, NY: Organic cotton, natural dyes, silks, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Made By, Peruvian Highlands: Eco-friendly Alpaca yarns, hand knit by the local highland Artisans of Peru, Fair Trade, organic colorants.

modaspia, Placerville, CA: Organic fabrics, end run fabrics, made in San Francisco.

Nau, Portland, Oregon: Organic cottons, silks, tencel, recycled materials, cruelty-free wool, partners for change with Ashoka, Ecotrust, Kiva and Mercy Corps.

100% NY, New York, NY: Organic, recycled, and ethical materials, produced entirely in New York.

Organic by John Patrick, New York, NY: Handmade metallic lace, sustainable recycled wool, organic cotton, biodegradable cotton cupro, vegetable-tanned leather, hand-loomed Angora, digitally printed silks,

M. Patmos, New York, NY: Eco-friendly merino wool and alpaca, faux fur made from wool and alpaca, and vegetable tanned leather, handwork techniques from women’s artisan collectives in Nepal and Bolivia, as well as zero-waste seamless knitting technology from Japan.

Portland Pendleton Collection: Portland, Oregon: Pendleton fabrics are woven exclusively in Pendleton’s Northwest Mills and all of the apparel is sourced and produced in the U.S.

Partimi, London: Digitally-printed silks, organic wools, modals, milk fibers, and luxurious cashmere.

Piece x Piece, San Francisco, CA: The fabric used in each piece is selected from a changing stock of luxury discards.

The Podolls, San Francisco, CA: 100% organic Supima Cotton, made in the U.S.

Popomomo, Los Angeles, CA: Organic cottons, Cupro, recycled materials, made in Los Angeles.

Prairie Underground, Seattle, Washington: Organic cotton, hemp, designed and manufactured in the U.S.

Raleigh Denim, Raleigh, NC: Handcrafted denim on vintage machines from the 1920s, sustainable cotton, organic cotton for Fall 12.

RESTORE Clothing, New York, NY: Repreve® Recycled Nylon, made in the New York City Garment District.

Rogan, New York, NY: Silks, organic cotton, alpaca, wool, bamboo, made in the U.S.

Samantha Pleet, New York, NY: Organic cottons, silks, Made in the U.S.

Soham Dave, New York, NY: Soham Dave focuses primarily on using biodegradable fabrics, recycled materials, and hand embroideries.
 

Stewart+Brown, Los Angeles, CA: Organic cotton, organic pima cotton, hemp, surplus fabrics, Mongolian Cashmere produced through a sustainable supply chain, Fair Trade.

Study NY, New York, NY: Organic cotton, linen, recycled materials, zero waste, made in New York.

Suzanne Rae, New York, NY: Silks, organic cottons, other sustainable materials when possible, made in New York City’s Garment District.

Thieves, Toronto, Canada: Soy, hemp, organic cotton, bamboo, Tussah Silk, organic wool, Seacell, tencel.

Titania Inglis, New York, NY: Japanese organic cotton, French vegetable-tanned leather, and dead stock wool from New York’s garment industry, made in New York.

Vaute Couture, New York, NY: Vegan, fair trade.

Did we miss someone? Email amy@ecosalon.com with your tip!

The post The Ultimate List of Sustainable Fashion Designers (From A-Z) appeared first on EcoSalon.

ColumnAn interview with designer Eileen Fisher.

Threads, seams, and sewing machines were familiar and fascinating for Eileen Fisher from a young age. Growing up with a mother who often handmade her brother and sisters’ clothing, Fisher enjoyed filtering through fabrics and selecting her favorites to be worked into her wardrobe. When she found herself more academically enamored by her college roommate’s interior design projects than her math major assignments, she knew design must be a part of her future and focus.

Organic cotton and cashmere cardigan

Fabrics Are Unforgettable

Fisher’s attraction and loyalty to fabrics stemmed from her early years, and has now evolved into one of the grounding forces behind Eileen Fisher, the brand. “You’ll notice we use a lot of the same fabrics over the years. We get really hooked on fabrics, we love the way they feel but we change the proportions to make them feel modern and to give women different ways to mix it up,” Fisher tells EcoSalon. Using this design approach allows women to buy consciously, adding to their wardrobe with staple pieces that will last, in style and quality.

It’s intriguing to realize that the design process for Fisher is integral to extending the lifetime of her pieces. “We’ve never used prints – we value rich color and textures in quality fabrics over patterns and prints. Avoiding prints helped me think about simplicity and how it worked – because when a garment is patterned, it becomes the ‘thing’ and can disguise poor quality,” Fisher explains. Instead, if the concentration is on investing in fabrics, garments will flourish and also maintain their versatility as prints and patterns tend to come and go instantaneously via the land of trends.

Linen and recycled cotton poncho and tencel dress

A Sustainable Mind

For Fisher, she believes her sustainable mind can be somewhat attributed to her roots. “Sustainability goes back to growing up in the Midwest. We didn’t waste things. I don’t like waste so I think clothes should last a really long time,” she says. Whether it be long-lasting, durable fabrics, or thinking more creatively in the way you style pieces, simple shapes make the Eileen Fisher world go ’round. Now a core value for the company, Fisher was inspired by the Japanese aesthetic through her various travels to the country.

“I was very interested in the kimono because for 1,100 years in Japan, people wore nothing but the kimono shape and I thought that was really interesting – what made it timeless, what made it last so long?” This simple art philosophy that has filtered down into Eileen Fisher’s collection is somewhat refreshing and calming amidst the world’s chaos.

Sheer silk georgette box-top with dolman sleeves and silk georgette cropped cargo

Design Without Borders

Global connections are undoubtedly part of the patchwork behind Eileen Fisher; with a team that sources wools from Italy, silks from China, collaborates with artisan groups in India, and develops fabrics in Japan, the accepting and open-armed nature of Eileen Fisher gives it an edge amongst the larger womenswear brands of today.

This spring Eileen Fisher will debut their first piece made in Africa – hand-loomed by a women’s collective in Ethiopia, and for Fall 2012, they will launch their first item made in Spain – artisanal natural-dyed merino knit gloves. In an effort to support the local American culture, Eileen Fisher also produces their garments in NYC and Los Angeles. Literally a quilted work of art, Eileen Fisher is a collage of global cooperative efforts that respect local techniques from the world’s artisans and producers.

The Peru Project

Directly in line with the acknowledging, thought-driven philosophy behind the brand, Fisher asked Julie Ribuner, the sweater knit designer who has been leading The Peru Project for the past few years, to take over for her and answer EcoSalon’s questions.

Born in 2005, this Project evolved out of an interest to boost Eileen Fisher’s use of organic fibers and materials. “After researching options, we turned to Peru because we saw an opportunity to participate in a holistic program – not only do they grow organic cotton locally, they spin the yarn and knit the sweaters creating a sustainable local story,” says Ribuner.

After instigating this venture with one iconic shape – the original box top in a simple reverse jersey stitch – Eileen Fisher has expanded the designs and production in Peru each season, due to their customers’ positive reaction. “Our work in Peru supports the local community – workers are paid fair-trade wages and they collectively reinvest capital into the community,” Ribuner adds.

The above video captures the authenticity and beauty of this project.

Hand-knit kneck warmer in yak yarn

Yak Love

Another fascinating project led by sweater knit designer Mimi Wong, is built around yak yarn.

“The sweater knit design team was captivated by the beautiful story of Yaks and the nomadic herders of the remote Qinghai-Tibetan plateau,” Wong says.

For these Tibetans, the yak is at the center of their livelihoods, providing them with fibers, shelter, clothing, milk, and yogurt, while also being used in farming and for transportation. With a body makeup designed to survive in frigid, high altitudes, these animals’ long hair and thick overcoat sheds naturally once each year in the springtime. This super-soft-cashmere-like fiber is then spun into yarn. For Eileen Fisher, they blend their un-dyed yak yarn with merino to maintain its luxe touch.

Wong tells EcoSalon, “We like using the fiber of Yaks as it also supports a vanishing way of nomadic lifestyle, traditions and community.”

Sheer silk georgette scoop neck box-top and silk Habutai tiered maxi skirt

Design For All Ages

Eileen Fisher appears to be taking on a younger edge as of late, but maybe it’s less about the garments, and more about the styling. “As a designer, I think my perspective can shift, but I hold onto the core values of simplicity, comfort, ease, versatility and being drawn to beautiful fabrics,” Fisher says.

Some of her designers have been working with the company for years and have a deep history, which according to Fisher, “blends with the new designers fresh out of school.”

In an emergence of design that is in-the-now and transcends time, Eileen Fisher’s cooperative design team seems to really be finding their groove in balancing these distinct angles.

Fisher tells EcoSalon that she consistently finds inspiration in the way different women in their office style the same garment, expressing themselves in an individual way. “For me personally, I have a daughter in college and she’ll take things from my closet, but when she wears them it’s completely different to how I would. We want the line to be intergenerational, to invite more women into the brand.”

Organic cotton knit box-top and tencel linen cropped cargo

Healing The Future Holistically

So what story does Eileen Fisher hope to share with the world?

“I guess it’s really thinking about eco and sustainability in a more holistic way,” Fisher says.

On a practical level, The brand offers wardrobe basics, like organic jeans and organic tees, or a pencil skirt made from recycled garments, but also luxurious silks that are made in a factory that uses fewer chemicals, less water, and less energy. However, for Fisher it’s about moving beyond simply being organic and integrating organic fabrics into your designs.

“It means looking at the supply chain and how companies can make a difference there too, from the factory workers all the way to the end customer. It isn’t easy, but we’re seeing how business can be part of lasting environmental solutions.”

When framed this way, the future of fashion from a holistic approach could prove beneficial for people and the planet. And we hope Fisher’s groundwork is something upcoming designers will embrace and continue to evolve.

The post THREADED: Eileen Fisher – Designing With Depth and Appreciation appeared first on EcoSalon.

ExclusiveBright Young Things launches a sustainable capsule collection at Urban Outfitters.

The Bright Young Things first season collection is debuting at Urban Outfitters with a four-piece capsule collection. The versatile collection can be worn in multiple ways and includes: The Converter Pant, The Everything Halter, The Wrap Skirt-Dress, and The Coat-Dress. Designer Eliza Starbuck says the collection was inspired by the idea of updating American classics in an effort to offer basics that are multifunctional.

“If I were to pinpoint the icons that are behind the style inspiration I’d say they’re a mix of Laurence of Arabia, Katherine Hepburn, and Carmen Miranda, although I certainly hope they don’t come off that way,” says Starbuck. “I wanted them to be for today’s versions of these characters.”

The New York-based line debuted at The GreenShows in September at the 2010 New York Fashion Week with just one little black dress. The dress itself has encouraged thrifty, creative dressers everywhere to embrace the fact that less is more and no better was that celebrated than through Starbuck’s creation of the first LBD for Sheena Matheiken’s The Uniform Project.

As for the Urban Outfitter collection, expect to see a pant with fun twists like a basic trouser with side entry that allows the wearer to wear it at three different levels on the waist (high-waisted, a slouchy-cuffed slack, or a drop crotch harem style pant), and an Everything Halter which was designed to be twisted and wrapped into different looks or flipped upside down and worn as a sexy skirt or beach cover up.

Producing the line in Manhattan’s Chinatown allowed Starbuck to closely monitor production and make adjustments to the production if necessary.

“It was really cool to get to know the factory workers,” says Starbuck. “There were days when I was in there working side by side with them.”

When asked if she thinks more women are getting creative with their clothes, Starbuck says it really depends on the individual.

“I know some amazingly creative dressers, women who inspire me to get dressed in the morning,” says Starbuck. “Then there are so many women who don’t have the confidence to stand out and assert their own sense of style, who tend to imitate the style they see on celebrities or that they see on TV or in magazines.”

There’s also the matter of personal priorities.

“Of course there are those women out there who really can’t or don’t care about fashion and have other things they focus on,” says Starbuck. “I try to design clothes that would work for any of these types, but I think the women who like to experiment will have the most fun with it.”

The Bright Young Things capsule collection can be seen now at Urban Outfitters, with pieces priced from $89-$240. Materials include tencel and hemp blends.

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Getting acquainted with bamboo’s true environmental impact.

When sustainable fashion first burst onto the scene, we were introduced to a number of “eco-friendly” fabrics, such as organic cotton, tencel, hemp and bamboo. Each carried sustainable properties, whether that meant being free of pesticides or fertilizers, produced in a closed-loop system, or made from durable and renewable materials.

At first, bamboo fabric made a lot of sense. Bamboo is one of the fastest growing plants on earth, with one species recorded growing three feet in a single day. Bamboo does not use or rely on chemicals, fertilizers or insecticides to grow. Nor does it require as much water as alternatives such as cotton, where one t-shirt requires 400 gallons of water to produce from start to finish.

In comparison to cotton, bamboo is known to improve watersheds, purify air quality, and remove toxins from contaminated soil, all with less water consumption and no harmful environmental impact. Bamboo is often planted to prevent soil erosion, it can absorb up to 12 tons of carbon dioxide per hectare and it produces 30% more oxygen than any hardwood forest of similar size. It can also be selectively harvested annually, and it naturally regenerates without replanting.

Bamboo seemed like a miracle fiber – and in a sense, it is. It’s turning it into fabric that’s the more complicated issue.

Bamboo fabric can be made in one of two ways – chemically or mechanically. The chemical process has been met with much resistance from sustainable fashion experts because this process requires toxic chemicals. These chemicals, sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, change the genetic structure of natural bamboo, turning it into rayon. But the disposal of these chemicals can lead to soil and water contamination.

The bigger issue is how bamboo is being marketed and sold – both to the fashion industry and the consumer. Both groups are drawn to its (questionable) claims of biodegradability, its softness, and let’s face it, its price point. Yet without knowing the facts about how that fabric was processed, or understanding its real positive attributes, how can one really be sure of the impact? Some marketers will rely on the fact that we immediately think it’s good because it comes from a plant that carries many good properties. They stick a panda bear or bamboo shoots on the label, and that seems to be enough to convince everyone of its sustainability.

You may be familiar with the Lyocell process, more commonly known as Tencel – a process that also requires various chemicals. However, Tencel is made in a closed-loop system that allows for the chemical effluent to be treated and recycled, thus making it a more sustainable option than rayon. Those of us in the sustainable fashion business have been waiting years for the bamboo industry to adopt this style of processing.

A Canadian brand, Miik, is challenging the status quo by using bamboo processed in a closed-loop system. In addition to tracking the bamboo used from the source, Miik has also earned a bevvy of certifications including USDA organic, Oeko-Tex Standard 100, and OCIA (Organic Crops Improvement Association). Even better is their processing method.

Miik

According to Bamboo Tex (the company that develops Miik’s bamboo yarn ), the bamboo is processed in a hermetic container where 100% of the chemicals used are trapped and contained rather than being released into their factory, environment or atmosphere. Miik also claims that each step of the process is supervised for adherence to company policy, brand commitment and China’s environmental ethical standards.

Within one week, I discovered yet another great example in Five Bamboo, which I recommend you check out for a more comprehensive explanation of the process (including diagrams).

Five Bamboo

Mechanically processed bamboo is also considered sustainable. Rather than extracting fiber, as in the case with regenerated cellulose, mechanical processing involves the separation and extraction of fibers directly from the bamboo shoots. However, it is a multi-step process that is more costly, and therefore is not commonly practiced.

The net situation is that bamboo fabric still poses some difficult issues for both the ethical fashion designer and the consumer. The use of bamboo plants in the textile industry is still relatively new, and too few companies are using the more sustainably processed fibers, although that is changing.

Regardless of how it is processed, some experts believe it is more important to be able to make an informed decision about environmental impact before ruling any fabric out. According to sustainability expert Lorraine Smith, we should all be taking an impact approach, rather than a prescriptive one. She believes it is more important for designers to be measuring, managing and demonstrating impact. Without data, aren’t we all just guessing?

Smith also feels that the real problem lies in making false claims or claims that don’t make any sense – whether it is about bamboo, cotton or any other fabric. “If they have certification to demonstrate that they are making a difference along the way,” says Smith, “Then it isn’t greenwash. It’s not about the fiber, it’s about the whole product life cycle.”

For more on Smith’s position on bamboo, read her article “To Be or Not To Be Biodegradable.”

Main image: odonoata98

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The fashion industry is facing many challenges, but one of the most pressing issues is water usage.  The textile industry is the third largest consumer and polluter of the world’s water. Water consumption is a huge problem for growing fibers such as the ever-thirsty cotton plant, with nearly 400 gallons of water required to produce just one cotton t-shirt.

Waste water is conceivably an even bigger issue than consumption. Toxic chemicals produced from dyeing textiles, along with other chemicals such as those used to produce synthetics, are contributing to a major crisis in pollution of fresh water, affecting the health of a number of species, including humans.  (Read The Consequences of Chemicals, Future Fashion White Papers).

Heavy metals such as chromium and cadmium, which are used to make bright and vibrant dyes, pose a threat wherever they appear in a product lifestyle, particularly the use of the dye in dye wastewater. Air Dye is a revolutionary technology that dyes textiles without using any water. Not only are they reducing the overall amount of water required to produce a garment, but this technology also prevents toxic chemicals from entering our ecosystems.

Some manufacturers work in closed-loop production, which means that the waste or effluent produced is treated and re-used, reducing the amount of toxic waste normally disposed of into the ecosystem.  The company Lenzing is a great example, with their fabrics modal and  tencel, made from a wood pulp much like bamboo (which has yet to be manufactured in a closed-loop environment).

But so much attention has been given to the energy, chemicals and water that go into making a garment that what many people don’t realize is the majority of the environmental damage comes once a garment has been purchased. The energy and water required to wash a garment has far more devastating effects than the growing of the raw materials and the manufacturing of the textiles. Surprising? Not really when you consider that the average piece of clothing lasts three years, and is laundered hundreds of times in its lifetime.

The average North American household washes 400 loads of laundry per year. This accumulated number of washes requires 13,500 gallons of water to complete, and is equivalent to how much water it takes to fill a standard above-ground pool!

The first steps towards recovering from our water addiction begin with wearing our clothes several times before washing. But once we get to a full laundry basket that is truly in need of a wash, there are a few basic tips to help you get started on eco-friendly and budget-smart laundering habits.

1) Wash your clothes in cold water: An interesting fact – using only hot water for washing your clothes uses more electricity in a year than leaving the refrigerator door open 24 hours a day for an entire year. Cold water is the best alternative, as it not only reduces fabric shrinkage, but it allows colors to remain vibrant. So your clothes will fit and last longer AND you’ll reduce your carbon emissions by 500 pounds a year!

2) Wash full loads: Washing machines are most efficient when operating at capacity. Take advantage of your washing machine’s full potential and load it up. Your budget will thank you for it.

3) Use the right amount and type of detergent: When doing a load of laundry do you use the cap size as an indicator of the amount of detergent you should use? If so, odds are you are using way too much laundry detergent than what is actually needed. The amount you use should reflect the guiding lines on the inside of the cap. Here’s a great article on Treehugger with more information.

Another helpful hint is to look for phosphate-free detergents. Phosphates are the leading chemical agent in algal blooms and a major cause of aquatic ecosystem depletion. Also, instead of fabric softeners, try using white vinegar in the rinse cycle. The acid vinegar will neutralize the basic detergents and as a result will help keep your clothes looking clean.

4) Consider an Energy-Star rated washer: Gone are the days of scrubbing our laundry by hand down at the lake. If you’re in the market to replace your washing machine, consider a more cost effective one. An Energy-Star or front-loading washing machine can save thousands of liters of water a year and be 30 – 85% more energy efficient.

Image above from Costello Tagilapietra’s 2009 show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week featuring Air Dye technology.

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