Every day is better with a new track. 

How can you not love a song about thrifting? Just make sure not to play too loud at the office; there are a few “this is f***ing awesome  lines.

Every day we bring you one track for a little musical inspiration. Have a track you want to submit? Email us at contact@ecosalon.com.

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What’s in your closet?

We British like keeping things in our closets (chiefly skeletons, if you believe our popular media). But we also use them to store unused clothes – an incredible $45 billion worth, according to a comprehensive study listed this week by the government waste watchdog Wrap. If it’s to be believed, of the $6,000 of clothes the average Brit owns, 30% are never worn, chiefly due to size changes, and instead of being productively moved along (either sold, recycled or donated) they linger, uselessly cluttering up our storage spaces.

Are we typical? Not compared to the United States. According to Tebea Kay at GOOD, Americans now keep just a fifth of the clothes they buy every year and throw out a whopping 68 pounds of clothing & textiles per person. It’s arguably the price of remaining fashionable, but what happens to the 80% of America’s clothes that head out its door? Valuable items get resold, damaged ones get turned into scrap material for recycling, and between them is the booming worldwide trade in used clothing.

So who do you go to when you move your clothes along? If you regularly take advantage of an inundation of charities leaving plastic sacks for you to fill and them to collect, beware. For the last decade Britons have been battled what has been termed the “great charity collection scam,” a set of bogus companies collecting donated clothes in order to sell them overseas for an entirely uncharitable profit. Nobody knows how much money has been ripped off the unsuspecting public in this way, but it’s sure to be in the millions.

The best advice is simple: make sure you clearly identify who you’re donating your clothes to. The best place for that? A high street charity shop or thrift store, where you’ll know exactly what happens next.

Image: M Car

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Thrift shopping for vintage treasures is easy when you know where to find them. Here are seven of our favorite thrift shops in Chicago.

The third largest city in the U.S., after New York and Los Angeles, Chicago could brag about many things – its many art museums, the world’s first skyscraper, a beautiful lakeside location. When it comes to vintage shopping, the windy city has plenty to offer as well.

Vintage shopping is part skill, part luck and part perseverance, but you can stack the odds in your favor by hitting up stores known to always stock good stuff. From the Ukrainian Village to Wicker Park to Pilsen and beyond, here are seven of our favorite thrift stores in Chicago. For those of you located elsewhere, many of these also have online shops.

Kokorokoko
This shop, located in the Ukranian Village, specializes in clothing from the 80s and 90s. Lovers of that particular aestethic will feel like they’ve died and gone to heaven as the racks are teeming with day-glo colors, graffiti-inspired patterns, snapback hats, Members Only jackets, 80s T-shirts and other flashy staples of that bygone era. You can even find neon fanny packs, padded sneakers and even Hypercolor tees. Kokorokoko is a mecca for those of you cultivating that ironic hipster look. The prices are mid-range, but you won’t be disappointed.

Kokorokoko, 1112 N. Ashland Avenue, Ukrainian Village

Unique Thrift Stores
With about a dozen locations in and around Chicago, Unique is a veritable thrift shop emporium. You’ll find gently used clothing at very affordable prices. Some of the stores are extremely well-organized – by size and color – some are not, but you can be sure to always walk out with something great. Items are clean and inspected for defects before they are put out on the racks. A large portion of merchandise is purchased from non-profit organizations, which use the proceeds to fund their operations.

Unique Thrift Store, 13 locations in the Chicago area

Vintage Underground
If you are looking for quality vintage jewelry this is the place to go. Vintage Underground is 3,500 square feet of vintage costume jewelry, hats, belts, handbags, clothing, and other unique finds. The owners not only have a great eye for detail and high level of taste, they are also very nice, helpful and knowledgeable. This shop is a great resource for brides-to-be looking for special occasion jewelry for that one very special occasion.

Vintage Underground, 1834 W. North Avenue, Wicker Park and online

Knee Deep Vintage
Located in the middle of the Pilsen neighborhood, Knee Deep has been bringing the finest men’s and women’s vintage clothing to the south side of Chicago since 2008. This is a true vintage shop where you will find quality garments from different eras. There is a great selection of dresses from the 20s to the 50s — all labeled with the approximate size, saving you a lot of guesswork before hitting the fitting room. There’s also a good selection of bags, shoes and jewelry, as well as some housewares and furniture. Prices are a bit on the high side, but you get what you pay for.

Knee Deep Vintage, 1425 W 18th Street, Pilsen

Silver Moon Vintage
Specializing in fine and designer vintage fashions from the 1890s to 1980s, Silver Moon is filled to the brim with amazing gowns, jewelry and accessories. Owner Liz Meyer, who is a fashion stylist for Aerosmith, has curated a spectacular collection of everything from formal wear from the Edwardian and Victorian era to contemporary high fashion from Vivienne Westwood. Silver Moon has one of the largest collections of vintage wedding gowns in the country and also sells new vintage-inspired bridalwear. There is a section for men as well, offering formal attire from the same eras. The shop also offers alterations, custom design and garment restoration.

Silver Moon, 1721 W. North Avenue, Wicker Park

Village Discount Outlets
With ten stores in Chicago, Village Discount outlet is a bargain shopper’s paradise. There are some serious finds to be had here – especially in the locations that are not in popular neighborhoods – but you’ll have to work for it. The racks are generally well-organized, but in a true thrift shop like this, you will want to spend some time sifting through them. There are no fitting rooms so get ready to try your stuff on in the aisle; but, with everything priced under $10, it’s totally worth it.

Village Discount Outlets, 10 locations in Chicago

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Thrift shopping for vintage treasures is easy when you know where to find them. Here are seven of our favorite thrift shops in Philadelphia.

It’s not always sunny in Philadelphia, but when the weather is less than great, what better time to explore the vintage shopping there. We were more than elated when these Philly vintage store tips were submitted by EcoSalon reader Joanne Stillman.

Vintage shopping is part skill, part luck and part perseverance, but you can stack the odds in your favor by hitting up stores known to always stock good stuff. Here are seven of our favorite thrift stores in Philadelphia. For those of you located elsewhere, many of these also have online shops.

Astro Vintage
Stocked with unique finds ranging from vintage clothing and jewelry to kitchenware, Astro has a little bit of everything. The shop is housed in a cute little space and the owner, Karin, is very helpful and curates the collection with lots of care. Her particular fondness for 50s owls means you should keep an eye out for Betty Draper-style dresses, pencil skirts, cat-eye glasses and lots of, well, owl jewelry and trinkets.

Astro Vintage, 720 S 5th Street, Queen Village

Retrospect
Retrospect has been around since 2001 and sells vintage clothing and accessories for guys and gals. The color coordinated displays feature everything from jeans and dresses to furs and coats to belts, hats, and sunglasses. The prices are decent enough – for a thrift shop located in a major city, that is – to enable you to find some true bargains.

Retrospect Vintage, 534 South Street, South Street District/Society Hill

Philly AIDS Thrift
This is your classic kind of thrift store, where you probably have to spend at least an hour searching through the racks, but can score amazing finds at great prizes. A non-profit, Philly AIDS Thrift donates a good portion of the profits from the used clothing and housewares they sell to local organizations involved in the fight against HIV/AIDS. In June, they surpassed $413,450 in total cash contributions to Philly area AIDS organizations. If that doesn’t make you feel good about shopping here, I don’t know what will.

Philly AIDS Thrift, 710 S. 5th Street, Queen Village

Wilbur Vintage
Featuring a well-curated selection of vintage goods, Wilbur Vintage is known for its style and charm. The main focus here is on women and you can find great dresses, shoes and bags. The proprietor is very friendly and will gladly help you find anything you are looking for. Prices are not dirt cheap, but you can expect everything to be in great condition.

Wilbur Vintage, 716 South 4th Street, Queen Village

Sazz Vintage Clothing
Sazz offers a curated collection of women’s and men’s vintage pieces ranging from the 30s to the 80s. There are lots of 50s and 60s dresses and a great collection of 70s and 80s band and concert T-shirts. You can also shop on the website and, if you let the store know a few days in advance, they can even arrange for you to try those web shop items on in the store. Sazz is also known for their vintage warehouse in Fish Town – a vintage paradise for men, where you can find disco clothes, western shirts, vintage t-shirts, bellbottoms, Hawaiian shirts and even ugly Christmas sweaters. Best of all, everything in the warehouse costs under $25.

Sazz Vintage Clothing, 38 North 3rd Street, Olde City

Malena’s Vintage Boutique
Located in West Chester, Malena’s features personally handpicked vintage and vintage inspired apparel. The items range from big-name designers like Gucci and Hermes to homemade tailored items. The store has been featured in many publications including Lucky Magazine, Latina Magazine, Spark Weekly, Budget Living Magazine, Philadelphia Magazine and Philadelphia City Paper. Owner Malena Martinez started collecting vintage when she was twelve years old and has honed her craft every since. A graduate of Pratt’s fashion program, she uses her technical knowledge and good taste to find unusual and well constructed vintage pieces.

Malena’s Vintage Boutique, 101 West Gay Street, West Chester

Greene Street Consignment
Currently in seven locations, Greene Street Consignment is run by a pair of sisters – Donna and Lynn – who use their fashion industry experience and business know-how to create a vintage shopping experience with a true boutique feel.The first Greene Street outpost opened at 700 South Street in Philly in 1997 and is, 15 years later, still going strong. Even though the shopping environment is polished, the prices are still great.

Greene Street Consignment, 119 W. Market Street, West Chester & 700 South Street, Washington Square West

Want us to feature your town or city? Send all information to tips@ecosalon.com

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Thrift shopping for vintage treasures is easy when you know where to find them. Here are seven of our favorite thrift shops in Austin, Texas.

The hippest city in the Lone Star State offers some of the best vintage shopping in Texas. The thrifting scene in Austin could be described as “New York quality with Texas prices.” You can be sure to score a good pair of cowboy boots here and, thanks to Isabel Marant, line dancing shirts are now all the rage and can surely be found at one of these shops.

Vintage shopping is part skill, part luck and part perseverance, but you can stack the odds in your favor by hitting up stores known to always stock good stuff. Here are seven of our favorite thrift stores in Austin, Texas. For those of you located elsewhere, many of these also have online shops.

Flashback Vintage
Opened in a small house on South Lamar in 1982, Flashback has grown to be one of Austin’s best vintage shops. It’s homey and sweet and stocks a good selection of period pieces from the 40s to the 80s as well as contemporary finds. There’s clothing for both women and men. The front room, where you enter, is the boutique area and is where you find the more expensive stuff. Staff members have a passion for all things vintage, and are knowledge about eras, labels, fabrics, and construction. The men’s area is on the right as you enter and has shirts, including pearl snaps, suits, hats, ties and buckles. Flashback has dressed “musicians, theater groups, hippies, flower children, hipsters, punks, soccer moms, celebrities and everyone in between.” Surely you will find something here that strikes your fancy.

Flashback Vintage, 1805 S 1st Street, 78704/So-Fi

Feathers Boutique
Feathers Boutique offers a well-edited selection of vintage items that reflect current trends. Upon entering, you are greeted by a display of non-vintage Jeffrey Campbell shoes, but turn left or right and you’ll find a variety of dresses, belts, tops, coats, and vintage shoes. Everything is thoroughly labeled with price as well as the time period from which it came  – most things are from the 70s – 90s. On the website there is a fun feature where vintage fans elsewhere can shop the outfit blog.

Feathers Boutique, 1700 S Congress Avenue, 78704/SoCo

Splendor
Featuring a great selection of handpicked vintage pieces inspired by the latest trends, Splendor is one of Austin’s finest vintage shops. Each piece is laundered before it hits the racks, so you will not find that musky smell otherwise so typical of vintage stores. Prices are still reasonably fair compared to other vintage shop and, in addition to clothing, Splendor also offers styling services, helping you put together that perfect vintage outfit. They also run an eBay store, where anyone can shop from the comfort of the couch.

Splendor, 100 W. North Loop, Suite H, North Loop

Cream Vintage
One of the most well-known vintage shops in Austin, Cream has a nice selection of clothing and accessories for both men and women and has better prices than many other shops. There’s an interesting selection of upcycled jewelry, but what this place is really known for is cowboy boots, which line the walls and are organized by color and gender. Cream has a friendly, knowledgeable staff happy to help answer questions or find something you’re looking for. There is also an in-house tailor that can alter your finds to fit you perfectly.

Cream Vintage, 2532 Guadalupe Street, The Drag

Roadhouse Rags
Roadhouse Rags is owned by Kelli Archer and Clay Connell and specializes in men’s western shirts, cowboy boots, vintage purses and jewelry, vintage sleepwear, and women’s eveningwear. Many come here for the cowboy boots, which are plentiful, in all thinkable colors, styles and sizes. Located a bit off the beaten path, Roadhouse Rags goes concert venue on the weekends and is a great place to come hear local Austin bands. Check out the website, which is a MySpace page, for upcoming shows. There is a backyard and it’s always BYOB, so bring your beer and save your money to buy clothes for instead.

Roadhouse Rags, 1600 Fortview Road, South Austin

Blue Velvet
For more than 18 years, the mother-and-daughter team behind Blue Velvet has outfitted fashionable Austinites in great vintage duds. A six-time winner of Austin Chronicle’s Reader’s Poll for Best Vintage Store, the shop has a wide selection of men’s and women’s vintage clothing and accessories, including petticoats, sunglasses, jewelry, and shoes, as well as tons of unique handmade items from local artists. This is where you may find both that obscure Halloween costume and that gorgeous vintage bridesmaid dress. The website features teaser-photos of what’s in store.

Blue Velvet, 217 W. North Loop Blvd., North Loop

Savers
It looks like a Marshalls or TJ Maxx, but this store is actually filled with second-hand clothing instead of overstock. There are two locations in Austin, both organized and clean. It’s fairly easy to find bargains, as every aisle is filled with current looks and authentic vintage finds. Savers was founded in 1954 on principles such as giving back and providing opportunities – core values the company still embraces today. Unsold clothing is recycled or donated to developing countries.

Savers, 4001 S Lamar Blvd. & 5222 Burnet Road, Suite 600

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Thrift shopping for vintage treasures is easy when you know where to find them. Here are seven of our favorite thrift shops in Los Angeles.

With all the celebrities, stylists, red carpets and generally stylish people that crowd Los Angeles, it’s no surprise the city offers some of the best vintage shopping there is to be had. There are loads of thrifty options where you can really score great bargains, but where this west coast city really shines is in the high-end vintage department – with gowns, sequins and old-school Hollywood glamour galore.

Vintage shopping is part skill, part luck and part perseverance, but you can stack the odds in your favor by hitting up stores known to always stock good stuff. Here are seven of our favorite thrift stores in the city of angels. For those of you located elsewhere, many of these also have online shops.

Rose Bowl Flea Market
Not a store, but a classic LA weekend destination, the flea market at the Rose Bowl is held every second Sunday of the month, rain or shine. Frequented by celebrities and Hollywood stylists, the 2,500 or so stalls here feature a great selection of everything vintage. Admission is on a sliding scale ($8-20) depending on how early you get there. This is definitely a place where the early bird gets the best bargains, so aim to be there early. Bring a cart, lots of cash and don’t be afraid to haggle.
Rose Bowl Flea Market, 1001 Rose Bowl Drive, Pasadena

Council Thrift Shops
There’s nothing fancy about this chain of thrift shops, it’s classic rifle-through-the-racks-for-hours thrifting. With a bit of patience and luck you’ll be guaranteed to come out of here with something incredible. The National Council of Jewish Women has locations peppered about the city, but two favorites are the one on Ventura Boulevard in Studio City and the one on Pico Boulevard in Mid-City.
National Council of Jewish Women Thrift Shops, nine locations throughout LA

Jet Rag
This Hollywood store is fueled by rock and roll music and bargain-hunting hipsters. It’s fairly affordable and organized and you can surely score good finds in the store, but much of the appeal of Jet Rag is their Dollar Sundays. Be prepared to sharpen your elbows and really fight for the good stuff at this parking lot clothing sale bonanza. Once the bags are opened it’s a free-for-all – grab the good stuff and hold on to it because it gets crowded and crazy. Everything is a dollar, so good bargains are sure to be made. Bring lots of dollar bills and arrive early to find parking.
Jet Rag, 825 North La Brea Avenue, Hollywood

Shareen Vintage
No boys are allowed in this store, due to the fact that there are no dressing rooms. Here, clothing is tried on right in the store, so remember to wear nice underwear. There are also no price tags, you walk up to the register with the items you want and they are appraised on the spot. This may seem counter-intuitive to bargain shoppers, but most of the items are in the $35-$80 range. Black velvet hangers and red dot tickets are used to indicate that an item is over $90. Owner Shareen is a vintage expert and will gladly offer advice. Look out for the occasional $3 sales, that’s where the real bargains are.
Shareen Vintage, 1721 N Spring Street, Los Angeles

Flounce Vintage
This cozy little shop in Echo Park is filled to the brim with well-preserved, reasonably priced vintage finds. Some of Flounce’s specialties are beaded evening bags, 50s cardigans, floaty 30s chiffon dresses, 40s rayon swing dresses, atomic print skirts, and accessories like gloves, bags, hats, jewelry and shoes. Owner Lisa is highly knowledgeable about all things vintage and is more than happy to answer questions and, if you can’t find what you are looking for, find it in the back for you. Look out for sale racks on the sidewalk from time to time for really good sale scores.
Flounce Vintage, 1555 Echo Park Ave, Echo Park

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Thrift shopping for vintage treasures is easy when you know where to find them. Here are seven of our favorite thrift shops in New York City.

Thrift stores are no longer on the fringe of it all, they are very much part of the urban fabric and people from all walks of life frequent them. It used to be that all the good ones were in Brooklyn, but with Beacon’s Closet recently opening an outpost in the West Village that is no longer the case.

Vintage shopping is part skill, part luck and part perseverance, but you can stack the odds in your favor by hitting up stores known to always stock good stuff. Here are seven of our favorite thrift stores in New York City. For those of you located elsewhere, many of these also have online shops.

Yours truly outside Beacon’s Closet in Williamsburg

Beacon’s Closet
If you only have time to hit up one thrift shop while in NYC, this should be it. Look for the bald baby with thick-rimmed glasses — that’s the shop’s logo. Beacon’s now has three locations in NYC — Williamsburg, Park Slope and a recently opened outpost in the West Village. The Williamsburg shop is by far the largest, but (thanks to notoriously stingy buyers) they are all well-stocked with good stuff. Racks are organized by garment type but also color, making it easy to find something specific. In addition to clothing there’s also a great selection of shoes, bags and accessories. My secret is to look for great boots in the men’s department.
Williamsburg: 88 North 11th Street, Park Slope: 92 5th Avenue, Manhattan: 10 W 13th Street or Shop Online

Guvnor’s Vintage Thrift
I love vintage stores that have a personality, where you walk in and just feel like you get what it’s all about. At Guvnor’s in Park Slope, the attitude is very rock and roll with a 50s rockabilly pinup vibe. There’s a great selection of denim, suede and leather as well as cutesy dresses (that deserve to be paired with a good biker jacket). Guvnor’s also throws parties every now and then. You’ll know because there will be dozens of motorcycles parked outside.
178 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope, Brooklyn

Amarcord Vintage Fashion
With two locations – one in SoHo and one in Williamsburg – Amarcord Vintage Fashion specializes in upscale European vintage clothing and accessories, primarily from the 1940s to the 1980s. Luxury brands share the racks and shelves with unknowns, but the entire selection is carefully curated. Large parts of the inventory is obtained on seasonal buying trips throughout Europe – Italy in particular – which is owners Patti Bordoni and Marco Liotta’s homeland. Amarcord also has a rental-only showroom in Brooklyn, stocked with more than 50,000 unique pieces from across the globe. Needless to say, stylists and celebs alike flock here to find that special piece that no one else will wear to the party.
Williamsburg: 223 Bedford Avenue (btwn N. 4th and N. 5th), SoHo: 252 Lafayette Street (btwn Prince & Spring)

Cobblestones
Walking into this little gem of a thrift store in the East Village is like traveling back in time, or shopping inside your (very stylish) grandmother’s closet. Delanee Koppersmith is a native of the East Village and has owned this shop since 1981. She specializes in the 1930s and 40s and, in addition to lovely clothing, you can also find quirky NYC memorabilia, books and other accessories.
314 E. 9th Street, Manhattan

Housing Works
All twelve NYC locations of Housing Works are great destinations for bargain shopping. Spend some time rifling through the racks and you never know what you may come across. Head out to Housing Work’s warehouse in Long Island City on certain dates, however, and you can fill up a whole bag with whatever you want for just $25. It’s called Buy The Bag, and tickets usually sell out in advance, so plan ahead. You can also shop a limited selection online.
12 locations throughout NYC or Shop Online

INA
If you’re looking for big brands and high fashion, INA is the place to go. With six locations throughout the city as well as an online shop, you are never far from a good score like a pair of Isabel Marant boots (for half off). The selection is highly curated and you can be sure that you won’t come across any designer knockoffs here. Prices are, as may be expected, not on the bargain side of things, but if you are looking for high-quality investment pieces, this is a good place to go.
NoHo: 15 Bleecker Street, Soho: 101 Thompson Street, Nolita/women: 21 Prince Street, Nolita/men: 19 Prince Street, Chelsea: 207 West 18th Street, Uptown: 208 East 73rd Street or Shop Online

What Goes Around Comes Around
Co-founders Gerard Maione and Seth Weisser have been collecting and selling vintage for over 17 years. The pair has amassed thousands of vintage pieces that are housed primarily in the company’s 10,000 square foot archive in New Jersey – a fashion industry gem – with pieces constantly rotating between the New York City and Los Angeles stores. Although there is a bit more focus on the 60s, the collection spans every decade, sometimes as far back as the 19th Century. WGACA has one of the largest collections of vintage denim in the United States, making the store a favorite destination for stylists and fashion people. In 2010, they also introduced the Custom Vintage collection, created from authentic vintage, recycled and uniquely handcrafted materials.
351 West Broadway (between Broome & Grand St), SoHo or Shop Online

SEE ALSO: 7 Awesome Thrift Stores in San Francisco

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Undercover writer Louise Lagosi helps us track our cast-off clothing.

Ever wonder what happens to your clothes when you just have to let them go? Maybe you were kind enough to spare them from ending up in a landfill by donating them to a thrift store for a tax credit; maybe you were even clever enough to “new-life” them into cut offs, a mini-skirt or something else relatively simple to make.

There are many ways to keep our clothes from contributing to landfills and pollution, and according to Dr. Jana Hawley, whose focus is on finding solutions to textile waste in fashion, “Our clothing is 100% recyclable.” So why then, according to SMART, a textile recycling organization that partners with Goodwill and The Salvation Army, do roughly 75% of our discarded clothes get put in the trash and end up in landfills?

Clothing has an enormous, toxic, environmental footprint, one that gets bigger when it is unnecessarily wasted and not given the opportunity to live up to its fullest capacity through multiple lives, multiple owners or textile recycling.

While we may never consider our clothes after we’ve discarded them, our cast-offs go on exciting adventures around the globe. Thrift stores are simply the first of many depositing and sorting grounds. Which part of the world they land in really depends on what shape and quality they are in when they leave your hands.

When your clothes arrive at the thrift store they get sorted, and provided they’re not terribly damaged, they are put on the racks. The premium grade used clothing has several possible fates in the drop-off store, one of which is purchase for resale at international vintage shops.

Vintage store owners around the world have been mining American thrift stores for cheap vintage, only to resell our cast offs back to us at premium vintage prices. Americans in particular get rid of some of the nicest digs in the world. In Paris you’d never find designer vintage on sale anywhere outside a pricey vintage shop. But here in the States, mint condition, vintage Gucci dresses on Salvation Army racks sell for $19.99. It’s no wonder that the world comes here for it’s vintage. At $5-$10 a pair, beat up old Levi’s might collect over $500 by a vintage dealer in Japan. And the hat your grandmother painstakingly hand knit you could easily end up in a Swedish or Dutch vintage boutique.

“We get all of our vintage from the States. The store owners take a 4-6 week long summer vacation in the U.S. visiting the same favorite routes to thrift stores year after year. Within a few weeks, they’ve more or less made the annual store inventory,” says an employee from Zipper, a vintage shop in Amsterdam.

Of course, all of this can be found on thrift store floor racks, where meticulous and discerning shoppers have the opportunity to snatch up the premium second hand at thrift store prices before they reach the vintage dealers provided they are willing to dig through racks. Sometimes, this pursuit can seem more like archaeology than shopping, sifting through cross sections of society’s discarded duds to find the rare diamonds in the rough.

A slightly rarer fate for some of our clothes are landing in the hands of crafters and upcycling designers, like JoAnnBerman, DominikaNaziebly, and LuFlux, all of whom choose to pull resources from thrift stores and used markets, upcycling finds into new one-off designs. These designers choose to make couture out of our rags.

Lu Flux

Lauren Lawson, Goodwill’s Media Relations Manager, says an item has about a month’s time to prove its worth on the floor before it is removed and redistributed to lower income sales channels; first at the Goodwill’s most affordable stores, where they provide clothing sold by the pound in American low income communities. If still not sold there, the clothing will get passed onto Goodwill’s partners over at SMART, who help divert two billion pounds of clothes from landfills annually through worldwide distribution and textile recycling. In the SMART sorting facilities, the clothes  are sorted into many different categories: tropicals, cold weather, denim, cotton, mixed rags, A grade and B grade.

While a sliver of thrift store leftovers get cut into rags and sold to mechanics, window washers and the likes, the bulk of all of our discarded clothes get shipped to third world countries for resale. These clothes are sorted, bundled and sold by bale or by the shipping container by companies like TransatlanticMixrags, who export American used clothes in an effort to reduce post consumer landfill mass, to provide affordable clothing to the poor in developing countries’ markets, and all the while making a pretty penny selling our trash.

The international customers take a gamble on what they are getting however. Unable to see the product until their package has landed and is paid for, they must accept whatever they get. The product is then distributed in street markets across the countrysides of impoverished nations and will be consumed and absorbed by people looking for any clothing they can afford.

Which would explain this how this t-shirt landed on this Sierra Leonean.

This can cause quite the controversy. Some believe that exporting westerner’s discarded clothes to poorer developing nations is the same as exporting our consumer culture. The point has been wrestled with over and over by human rights activists and fair-trade advocates alike; hand made, traditional indigenous dress is being replaced by cheap western rags as capitalism spreads across the globe like a rash.

Whether or not we should be passing off our waste products to third world nations is debatable. The devil’s advocates of Capitalism will argue that the poor people in third world nations cannot afford new clothing and want cheap clothing available to them.

One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, and for some in countries like Mexico, Jakarta, Brazil, and Bangladesh, landfills provide a meager income to garbage pickers sifting through trash in search of items that are reusable and recyclable. If old clothes are too ragged to wear, they might make good pillow or mattress stuffing. In countries where resources are scarce, even garbage can be valuable.

Which brings up the second most common use of our discarded clothing: recycled, post-consumer waste products. Forthcoming, green-minded entrepreneurs, like the geniuses behind BondedLogic, a company which makes insulation out of recycled materials sees the issue of post consumer waste as opportunity.

Bonded Logic’s claim to fashion-reuse fame is Ultra Touch denim insulation. Made of 90% domestically sourced post-consumer, recycled content, it is processed and manufactured entirely in the USA, and diverts approximately 300 tons from landfills monthly.

“We’ve been using recycled paper to make a cellulose insulation for over 35 years, and we wanted to make a batting form of insulation out of some post consumer fiber. When we researched the amount of waste available in the garment and textile industries, and especially with the abundance of waste denim available, it just seemed like the perfect solution,” says Sean Desmond, Bonded Logic’s Marketing Manager.  “If you go back even six years ago, a majority of textile waste was being landfilled. We saw this as a viable, abundant, resource and thought, why not use it?”

Insulation is just one of many recycling options for clothing. Textiles can be processed into car flooring and seat filler, roofing materials, punching bag padding for boxing, mattresses, and of course cleaning rags.

Before the 1900’s, most households generally had to make the most of the clothes they wore from scratch, altering and handing down items between family members as they grew out of them. They had to manage every scrap of waste they created to save their resources and energy and to prevent the garbage from piling up around them.

Since the Industrial Revolution took it’s hold on society, we’ve become so free with our fashion consumption habits we scarcely know what to do with all the waste flowing through the doors of our closets. Christina Salvi of GrowNYC, a group that organizes weekly clothing deposit drop-off spots at the New York City green markets was surprised to see how often people would donate from their closets.

“We weren’t expecting to have people returning every week with clothing deposits, but we have regulars who come with something to donate week after week. We also see visitors who will drop off big loads right after the spring cleaning,”says Salvi.

Since the launch of their clothing recycle program in 2007, GrowNYC has collected over 1 million pounds of clothing. With New York City’s annual post-consumer garment waste estimating at around 193,000 tons per year, New Yorkers have their work cut out for them to find alternative ways to divert their “trash.”

One thing is for sure, no clothing should be going into a waste basket.

Images: Brad K., Yikes Machine, Boardroom Eco Apparel, 1900s.org

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