EDUN takes on the idea of the complete woman.

EDUN’s Spring/Summer 13 collection is all about promoting what might seem, at first glance, like utilitarian female garb. At second glance – and knowing full well you won’t rock the outfits quite like the groupie girls strutting the catwalk – you see a pretty clean palette for a woman to promote her very badass self.

We’ll call it Manhattan Rocker Chic but designer Ali Hewson calls it a collection “contrasting worlds of the EDUN girl,” and you do aspire to be her if you’re one looking for solid street cred.

The EDUN collection never strays too far from the modern woman on safari in the city vibe, and this particular collection stayed true to the core concept of the label. Silky utility shirts, cargo dresses, vests with zip pockets, an excess of buckles, snaps and zippers, and enough army green to outfit a full regiment.

Feminine touches of cutout jersey bralettes, floral silk pailette utility pants, bustiers and sequins lay testament to Hewson’s desire to make this collection about the soft as much as the rough edged.

EDUN continues to make progress with bringing more economic development back to Africa since their controversial departure to LVMH about a year and a half ago. In fact, the cover of the EDUN collection program reads that styles to be made in Africa or made from fabric sourced from Africa have “been highlighted in bold.”

While that might be only 1/4 of the collection, that they are acknowledging their brand’s roots might be half the battle of owning some professional missteps.

In addition to the organic cottons, silk habotai and nutmeg dyed pieces, the news of being more accountable for the label’s original ideal of being an “important tool for societal transformation, something that is urgently needed in the world of conscious fashion,” comes as refreshing news.

We couldn’t help but want to be that it girl strutting down the catwalk, if only for the 7 minutes or so we were allowed to enter the fantasy.

Check out EcoSalon’s coverage of the show:

Image: Amy DuFault

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Safari meets punk rock meets everything in between at EDUN’s Fall/Winter 2012 runway show.

In the program for EDUN‘s New York Fashion Week runway show, the Fall/Winter 2012 collection was described as “a mash-up of 80s vibe leathers, bonded plaids, mesh, and tech-finished fabrics, juxtaposed with African safari prints.”

Sounds like a lot going on? It was.

On a cold, blustery Sunday afternoon at Manhattan’s Pier 57, head designer Sharon Wauchob presented a line inspired by the EDUN girl who has taken her punk rock roots on safari. Even on paper, it sounds like a tough combination to pull off. Several of the ensembles were elegant, like a charcoal-cassis double face wool parka over a navy-charcoal turtleneck vest and black double face pleat skirt. Others made me scratch my head, like an electric pink silk fil-coupé zip dress that looked straight out of a Disney Channel tween’s wardrobe.

It’s tough to evaluate EDUN’s progress without bringing up its past, which has been rocky to say the least. In 2005, U2 frontman and human rights crusader Bono and wife Ali Hewson launched Edun to great fanfare, with the aim of using the brand to bring about economic development in Africa. However, they quickly ran into quality control issues, with retailers complaining about late shipments, poor garment construction, and ill fit. Soon after, it was revealed that 85 percent of EDUN garments were being produced outside of Africa, primarily in China but also in Peru. The news outraged people in the industry, and EDUN is still struggling to recover its image.

This season, in an attempt at greater transparency, EDUN highlighted in the show’s program which items would be produced in Africa. About half the pieces were in bold, including many of the following ensembles.

Images: Jessica Marati

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Does Edun’s far reaching ad campaign have the ability to change consumer mindsets?

Without the glossy ad campaigns typically employed by fashion houses, star-ethical line, Edun has managed to become the most well known and celebrity beloved conscious clothing collection out there (having Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson as the line’s founders doesn’t hurt). Posting double digit growth last year and announcing plans that both Bloomingdales and Neiman Marcus will pick up the line, the fast-growing sustainable clothing label has just unveiled their first advertising campaign.

An advance look at the ads reveal Edun’s spring looks shown alongside six species of butterflies indigenous to Africa. According to a WWD interview with Hewson in Africa – where the brand reportedly produces much of its clothing and supports local farming communities and factories – she explains, “We really wanted to capture the essence of Edun, and of what inspires the brand, which is duality and transformation.”

Some of fashion’s hottest design talent was enlisted to create the campaign, Photographer Ryan McGinley was the visionary behind the engaging images, British Dazed and Confused Editor, Jefferson Hack, served as the on-shoot creative director.

Skeptics have pointed out that Edun’s partner company – luxury group LVMH bought a 49% stake in the company in May 2009  – utilizes far from sustainable practices. And a now infamous campaign featuring Bono with Hewson, parading through one of the poorest landscapes in the world carrying LVMH luxury bags, may not have not helped win over the critics either.

What is clearly persuasive is the reach of the label. With the campaign set to break in the March issues of Vogue, Vanity Fair, Dazed & Confused, AnOther, T The New York Times Magazine and the Sunday Times of London, its ability to change mindsets is far-reaching. Also included as part of the campaign, is a launch event set to take place during New York Fashion Week and short “blink videos” that will appear on Edun.com and via social media outlets. The message that “eco-friendly” and “socially-aware” are desirable clothing attributes is about to get some wings.

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