How does the founder of one of the most successful clothing stores in American history find himself ousted and disgraced? He’s Dov Charney, that’s how.

Dov Charney’s American Apparel clothing stores and provocative ads changed so much about fashion in recent years. While other brands focused on building their brand logos, he made simple sexy. American Apparel tee shirts, leggings and clean, straightforward designs that never bore a logo or branding—all made in downtown Los Angeles—became synonymous with today’s fashion. The American Apparel empire grew to nearly 250 stores and more than 10,000 employees since Charney started up the operation in 1991. By 2007, sales were up to $387 million.

The iconic ads—beautiful women in sexy poses—grace magazines and billboards across the country. (A former roommate of mine once told me he planned to sue American Apparel if he ever got into a car accident that was his fault; chances were he was distracted by one of the billboards, he said.)

Charney, 45, has been the target of numerous sexual harassment allegations and lawsuits over the years. According to the Wall Street Journal, “As the sexual- harassment suits proliferated—the company lists five arbitration cases in a recent filing—American Apparel’s deductible for liability insurance soared to $1 million a year from $350,000.”

On June 18^th, the American Apparel board terminated Charney, removing him from his board chairmanship and CEO position, citing “willful misconduct” that included allegations of posting naked pictures of a former employee who had filed a sexual harassment suit against Charney on a blog site he approved. The employee claims that he made her his sex slave.

A day after he was fired, this unbelievably disturbing video surfaced. Yes, that’s Charney dancing naked in front of his employees. The woman filming the video encourages Charney, “Shake you booty!” she says. He looks away, saying, “Stop. You’re gonna get me in trouble.” A former American Apparel model told Gawker “That is 100% [Charney].”

Charney rebuffs the board’s decision and intends to fight the accusations, reports the New Yorker. “He is American Apparel’s largest shareholder, owning more than a quarter of its stock. His attorney, Patricia Glaser, in a letter to the board, calls the firing ‘not merely unconscionable but illegal,’ arguing that Charney had no opportunity to negotiate.” Glaser contends that the allegations are baseless. “Most involve activities that occurred long ago (if at all) and about which the Board and the Company have had knowledge for years.”

The issues with Charney aren’t limited to his sexual misconduct, either. Poor business decisions quickly became costly. Loans from Lion Capital quickly grew out of control incurring penalties for going unpaid and high interest rates. The $80 million loan grew to nearly $150 million before it was repaid in 2013. That same year, the company reported more than $100 million in losses.

The brand’s prideful “Made in Downtown LA” claim took a hit in 2009 when an investigation found that more than half of the factory’s employees weren’t authorized to work in the U.S.

Charney’s been compared to Terry Richardson, the fashion photographer who has also faced sexual misconduct allegations recently. Jezebel asked in this witty headline: “Are Dov Charney and Terry Richardson the Same Person? Almost!” While they’re not, technically, anyway, they both do represent a kind of person, one Jezebel outlines in a scary/hilarious/scary-again chart. It’s pretty outrageous.

But here’s the question, or the caveat emptor: Is it worth it? Is the world a better place because of Charney’s American Apparel contribution (or Richardson’s photos)? Is his behavior the price we pay for entrepreneurism, or art, for that matter? Historically, some of our most beloved artists were also known for their mental health issues, from Van Gogh to Cobain. But when the line is crossed and the brilliant/disturbed artist becomes a sexual abuser, what do we do next? In this case, do we trash all of our American Apparel clothing? Or do we wear them in solidarity with Charney’s victims who paid for these clothes in unthinkable ways?

Find Jill on Twitter @jillettinger

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Image: infomatique

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Perhaps it’s the influence of the movie “American Hustle” and 1970s style. Or maybe it’s just CEO and founder Dov Charney’s fetish. Whatever it is, American Apparel mannequins have pubic hair now.

Gothamist first spotted the bushy American Apparel mannequins in New York City earlier this month. The Huffington Post spoke to a store associate who said the au natural-looking mannequins were meant to drum up Valentine’s Day sales by conveying the “rawness and realness of sexuality.” Word.

I recently had a baby. How about mannequins with smooshy, puffy bellies that make it difficult to see one’s own pubes? Oh, wait. Global News reports: “At David’s Bridal, mannequins soon will get thicker waists, saggier breasts and back fat to mimic a more realistic shape.” It’s a start. How about stretch marks?

A Swiss mannequin campaign that highlighted people with disabilities went viral last year.

And back in Manhattan, people are flocking to the East Houston Street American Apparel stores, taking pictures in front of the bushy Barbies. I’m assuming many women stop to stare on their way to get Brazilian waxes.

Maybe some of the credit goes to Lena Dunham and HBO’s “Girls”, which has no issue showing bodies as they are. You know, real women who don’t look like supermodels, or mannequins, as the case may be. Not that there’s anything wrong with having a “perfect” body. But it shouldn’t be an aspiration. After all, we get what we get in this life. We should work towards the healthiest version of ourselves–not trying to emulate women we’ll never ever look like. Surgeries to boost our bust or shrink our thighs, or even just ripping out our crotch hair certainly could be time better spent. Like shopping for a new wardrobe at American Apparel. I think the campaign’s working, Dov.

Keep in touch with Jill on Twitter @jillettinger

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Images: michael kalus, Gothamist

The post Bush is Back: American Apparel Mannequins Have Pubes appeared first on EcoSalon.

Today, we celebrate the 4th of July and the USA by highlighting some of the great design that is also made here on our home turf.

This week is all about celebrating the United States of America (and BBQs, of course), and we do that by highlighting some of the great design that is done here on our home turf. Manufacturing in the U.S. creates jobs and cuts carbon emissions from shipping, so be a patriot and support your local designers. Here are a few of our stars and stripes-themed favorites.

Amour Vert Paquerette Navy/White Stripes Tube Top
We never thought we’d wear tube tops again, but suddenly they feel kind of right, especially on a hot summer day, paired with a high-waisted skirt. This striped one, by Amour Vert is made in the USA from soft bamboo.
$34, Amour Vert

Amour Vert Audrey White Buttoned Skirt
This sailor-inspired mini skirt goes perfectly with a striped tube top (see above). The fun button-detailing in the front give it that slight nautical feel, while the side pockets and clean silhouette keep it classy. Made in the USA, from organic cotton.
$99, Amour Vert

Hovey Lee Stella Stars Necklace
If there are stripes, there must be stars. This dramatic statement necklace features large metal star charms hanging from a large brass chain, all made with reclaimed metal. The charms are hollow to make it easy to wear. You can make it work double-duty by wrapping it around your wrist as a bracelet. Hovey Lee jewelry is designed and made in Los Angeles, always from natural, reclaimed and fair trade materials.
$158, Hovey Lee

PACT Bikini Handpainted Stars Bikini
OK, so these star-spangled organic undies are not actually made in the USA, but in a fair trade factory in Turkey. PACT’s new stars and stripes-themed collection was, however, inspired by a hunky Texas farmer named Mason Arnold, with proceeds benefiting the Sustainable Food Center, which provides families in low-income communities with access to healthy local food. That just seems kind of patriotic to us.
$20, PACT

American Apparel Unisex Swim Trunk
American Apparel has been the mainstream poster child of bringing local manufacturing to downtown LA, which we think is pretty cool. We just wish they would commit to organic fabrics too. These mid-length unisex swim shorts have vented legs, a drawstring waist and come in a variety of different colors.
$34, American Apparel

Giant Dwarf Astral Crown
Celebrate independence day by channeling lady liberty with this headpiece made from German glass glitter (which is pure silver and real glass shards). There’s no way you can avoid having fun wearing this. Astral Crowns are an original Giant Dwarf design – each piece is carefully crafted and assembled by hand, with lots of love and sparkles.
$48, Olivine

Edith A. Miller Cotton Boatneck Striped 3/4 Tee
This classic boatneck tee is as timeless as it is all-American – a perfect summer wardrobe staple. The versatile knits by Edith A. Miller are all made in a 100-year-old mill in Reading, Pennsylvania, which originally specialized in making men’s undershirts. In late 2010, former investment banker Nancy Gibson and designer Jennifer Murray convinced the mill to start making women’s shirts, which have ever since been a favorite of stylish women everywhere.
$70, Bird

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A weekly look at sex and culture, by the numbers.

What a week it’s been for the Ecosalon Sex by Numberettes. We’ve had gay sex outlaws, yoga orgasms and Canadian divorces (and it’s only Thursday). Look out, weekend.

21 percent: respondents who claimed they would be willing to give up sex for a year before giving up Internet access

6 months: possible jail time for two American men on a gay cruise accused of “buggery” during a stop in Dominica

260 million: value of the most recent lawsuit brought against American Apparel CEO Dov Charney

3: number of women in Zimbabwe who have been arrested for forcibly taking semen from hitchhikers

124: Women who have experienced exercise-induced orgasms, according to a recent study at Indiana University

90 days: amount of time a Canadian couple attempting to divorce must avoid having casual sex with each other before their request is granted

Image: Paulina Clemente

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Forget the muted tones, embrace fall in all its splendor.

It’s going to be a red hot fall, at least inside our closets. Red, in hues ranging from dark rust to neon-bright, is one of the hottest colors right now, and will also carry nicely into the spring. If you want to be really daring and on-trend, wear red from head to toe. You’ll be guaranteed to turn some heads.

We love this genius convertible dress, which will work double or triple duty as it transforms into different shapes. The ladylike handbag, poncho, fitted turtleneck, cable knit sweater, and flat boot are all key pieces for the fall. Being fashionable hasn’t been this comfy and cozy in a long time.

Clockwise, from top left:

J.Brand Mid-Rise Skinny Leg Jean in Bright Red
$176, jbrandjeans.com

Vintage Fire Engine Red Wool Poncho
$122.33, WoozWassVintage on Etsy.com

Matt & Nat Clint vegan suede handbag
$95, mattandnat.com

Cotton Turtleneck from American Apparel
$30, americanapparel.com

Shabd convertible Shoreline Dress in fire
$545, shabdismyname.com

Covet Cable Knit Sweater
$125, shopfuturestandard.com

Swedish Hasbeens Chelsea Unisex Boot
$408, swedishhasbeens.com

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Shopping ‘Made in the U.S.A.’ isn’t really so patriotic…or is it?

When you look at clothing labels while out shopping, you likely see more Made in Sri Lanka, Made in India, Made in China, and Made in Guatemala than Made in the U.S.A. labels. It seems just about every country in the world produces clothing except America. How can this be? Americans like to buy clothing more than any other nation in the world, so wouldn’t it be suiting that we like to make it, as well?

Unfortunately, American factories have been closing down at a steady rate, with 90% of our garment factories’ production being outsourced since 1955. Skilled and unskilled labor jobs are disappearing at startling rates. And since the 2008 market crash, American fashion companies have been downsizing the staff even in their corporate offices.

“If we’re going to be competitive with the global market, we need to focus on innovation and coming up with new ways of developing and producing product while maintaining and passing down the traditional skills of sewing within this country,” says Erica Wolf, of Save the Garment Center.

While most American fashion companies still hold their design and operations offices here, much of our customer dollars go to the countries that make the clothes; paying their taxes, developing their nations, building their economies. We expect our politicians to solve America’s rising deficit, meanwhile when we go out shopping, we spend our money supporting just about every country but our own. There seems to be a disconnect here. Aren’t there still values and standards that we as Americans believe are worth saving? If you can’t find what you want with a “Made in the USA” label in it, is it wrong to buy it if it is made elsewhere?

There are those who would forgo such non-American purchases; they tend to be the patriotic individuals who post American pride all over everything they own. They proudly sport American-manufactured clothes and equate shopping with the survival and promotion of their values; keeping jobs in America, putting food on the table for their families, looking out for their neighbors, pride, and better-quality clothing.

For over a century, progressive Americans have worked to protect U.S. workers’ rights. Our nation set up some of the first and most effective labor unions, some of the strictest labor rights protection laws and environmental protection standards enacted in the world. These standards have improved over time, and help to prevent more tragedies from happening like the infamous Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire of 1911. Americans fought for their rights, the government responded with appropriate laws, and all the while we never would have suspected our continual raising of the bar would over time lower the amount of jobs available to American workers.

Today, we have some of the most stringent factory standards on the planet. While the job of sewing operator is still no walk in the park, at least American technicians don’t have to work long hours without breaks or overtime pay. Modern day U.S. workers now at the end of the day get to go home to see their families, something that is unfathomable to the workers in the labor camps of China.

David Riley of americansworking.com has a theory that large companies have figured out how to operate business as usual regardless of the U.S. protection laws we enact: If they can’t do it here, they will do it somewhere else.

“We have outsourced all of our pollution and human suffering. America has made so many laws protecting the environment, the people, and our company trademarks here, that we can’t do business competitively in our own market. We are making American workers and our factories compete with those in countries who have none of the laws or standards that we must uphold,” says Riley. “We would never allow a factory in China to operate here. But we allow them to sell in our market, so in a sense we are allowing them to operate here anyway. We would never be able to compete.”

But amidst our fiercely competitive and, at times, cannibalistic business culture, our values continue to play a powerful role in the world of good. In 2006, American businesses and individuals were reported to have given more than 4.5 times what all of Europe, Australia, and Japan combined in private donations to charities and philanthropic causes that gave aid to developing nations. Granted, our donations are tax-deductible, but if we can afford to help others, why can’t we spring to support our own – at least with our shopping habits?

The majority of American fashion businesses default to China for production, claiming the cost of labor here is generally much more expensive than what American consumers are willing to pay for.

But according to Erica Wolf, of Save the Garment Center, this is not entirely true.

“With prices shifting, and China becoming more expensive it would benefit a big retailer to have their production department, at the very least, examine the prices at domestic factories. On certain garments the pricing is now comparable if not less domestically. And of course this additional business to local factories would help support American jobs,” she says.

Instead, businesses have learned to take advantage of the world market by outsourcing production to countries with cheap, exploitable labor to cut costs while keeping the prices of their goods low. The truth of the matter is that if a brand can’t dictate to us what we want through advertising, then they are forced to listen to what the consumers demand, and if we look for, request, and buy clothes that are Made in America, more companies will make clothes here.

However, for the average American consumer, fashion is frivolous, and has little to do with values or morals. It is less about the quality or where it is made and much more about the brand name on the label.

Riley says, “So much money goes into and comes from the marketing of high fashion brands; the image of high fashion is where they invest. The money spent there has to come out of something else, and I think that something is the cost of labor and product quality. They’re replacing the dollars for production and spending it on branding and marketing instead.”

With most American consumers so heavily influenced by the intoxicating spell of fashion advertising, most of our consumer drive comes from what we see in the media, rather than from the desire to choose items that represent our traditions or values.

Of course, there is one little company that challenged the standard formula and decided to go completely against the grain. In its 22 years of business, American Apparel has been surprisingly successful at building an American-produced fashion business using a vertical integration model that allows them to do nearly everything from design, to advertising, to production all, more or less, under one roof. Here is a brand that has taken great strides to give “American made” a new image.

If you can get past their ads, the company is all-American; proudly promoting their sweatshop-free, Union Made, U.S.A. produced, vertically integrated business, their charitable donations to natural disaster victims, and their political support of civil rights.

American Apparel isn’t the only contender willing to take on the global market while maintaining American production. There seems to be a new revival on the “Made in the U.S.A.”  fashion front. As Wolf notes, “There are designers doing production in the United States. For example, Nanette Lepore does 80% of her production in America.”

And quite recently, the American menswear company Brooks Brothers has made great efforts to bring it back home, complete with a luxe denim collaboration with American classic, Levi Strauss, and a heavily publicized marketing campaign to help equate “Made in America” with the luxury and quality that their brand stands for.

The Olsen Twins’ incredibly successful line, The Row, is yet another high fashion line that is primarily produced in the country. These brands have the marketing muscle and savvy and the will to bring the fashion-minded consumers once again back to getting behind American-made clothes, providing high end fashion that Americans can be proud of.

Image: Chevroletpedia, nycgo.com, America in the World, China Digital Times, Chicagomag.com, fashiongearlive.com

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Breton stripes may have been the French Navy’s standard uniform back in the 19th century, but today they are a wardrobe staple – especially for spring! A fresh and fun pattern that evokes a sense of lightness and casual confidence, stripes are on our must have list.

Totally inspired by the fabulous fashion blogger, The Glamourai, stripes are coming back avec force! The striped mini dress is the perfect poolside throw-on layer, or simple outfit for a daytime rendezvous. Samantha Pleet makes a long sleeve version that is perfect for transitioning seasons, while Howies offers a summertime signature dress.

Just as the navy’s uniform allowed an overboard sailor to be spotted more easily, stripes are sure to attract a second glance wherever you go!

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