All aboard for flares, it’s time to abandon the skinny trouser.

When Kate Moss starts wearing wide legged flares instead of the skinny jeans she singlehandedly made famous, you can bet the jig is up. Whether you know them as bell bottoms, flares, wide-legged pants or the first point of order after a seventies fancy dress invite, the fact remains – they’re back in a big way this season.

And yet, if ever there was a time where there are no rules when it comes to the right hemline, silhouette or color this is it. So what goes? It might well be a sense of social saturation that paired with a fitted jacket, extra long scarf and ballet flats, the skinny jean – once the proviso of punk musicians – has become the ubiquitous uniform of every mom on the school run. Despite the vintage flower-child connotations, flared pants feel remarkably fresh right now.

A bold yet minimalist look from Céline’s recent resort 2013 collection.

There is also the influence of Phoebe Philo’s standout Céline Resort 2013 collection (although it may well be redundant to single out any one of Ms. Philo’s collections – all have been entirely remarkable since her appointment in 2008 as the label’s creative director). Her full-legged flared trousers with contrasting colorblocked hems will undoubtedly see immediate success and prove as highly coveted and widely carried as Celine’s luggage tote.

A continual source of style inspiration, Stevie Nicks proves bell bottoms are feminine and wearable.

When the pants we now know and love (or hate) originated is hard to tell. They almost certainly are derived from Navy uniforms. Their flared or bell bottom was a functional choice for traditional sailors as they were easy to remove over boots, a breeze to roll up when swabbing the ship deck, quickly removable when wet – and should you fall into the water – it was even suggested that sailors could use the pants as a life preserver, tying the wide legs in knots and filling them with air.

Like the Charlie’s Angels, flared pants are a total 70s throwback.

By the late 1960’s the counter culture movement adopted the looser more comfortable flared pant rejecting the straight-legged styles of the establishment. As well as buying naval uniforms from surplus stores to embellish with stitching and patches, many hippies and peace protestors began modifying regular jeans by sewing in colorful triangles of fabric. Sewn into the outside leg seam below the knee to the cuff creating a flare below the knee, this flattering and easy-to-copy technique is a great idea for those of you now looking to abandon your skinnies for the wilder winds of fashion change.

Thanks to a wider hem that helps balance proportions, flared styles are more flattering than you might imagine.

Want to catch up on some more fashion history?

Now & Then: the History of the Ballet Flat

Now & Then: The History of Shorts

Now & Then: Met Ball’s Most Memorable Dresses

Now & Then: The History of the Breton Shirt

Now & Then: The History of the Platform Shoe

Now & Then: The History of Fitness Wear

Now & Then: The History of the Pencil Skirt

Now & Then: The History of the Cocktail Dress

Now & Then: The History of Skinny Jeans

Read more Now & Then articles here.

The post Now & Then: The History of Flared Pants appeared first on EcoSalon.

Can the film noir style staple survive the whims of fashion?

According to New York magazine’s popular Approval Matrix, the long running trend for fedora hats is most definitely over. That’s the thing with fashion, someone artfully revisits a look from the past starting a trend and before you know it every street corner vendor is selling a version for ten bucks. While the look is good in its purest essence, the last thing you want is to wear one too.

Which is a magnificent shame when it comes to the trendy topper in question. The fedora, a medium brimmed hat traditionally made in felt, was designed with a pinched indentation at the hat’s crown to allow for a roomier fit.  Tipped rakishly over one eye, there’s no better way to establish an air of mystery in stylish homage to the film noir greats like Robert Mitchum, Greta Garbo and Veronica Lake.

Who could resist Bogie and Bergman both wearing a fedora in Casablanca?

The fedora emerged as a female fashion accessory for middle and upper class Western women at the turn of the last century, after actress Sarah Berhardt played Princess Fedora in the French play Fedora by Victorien Sardou in 1889. The hat went on to be associated with gangsters in the Prohibition era of the 20s and 30s and was subsequently glamorized by the film noir actors reenacting the mobsters and private investigators in popular movies in the 40s and 50s.

Smooth Criminal: Michael Jackson helped to revive the fedora in 1987

By the 70s the formal hat fell out of style as casual clothing became more popular. It enjoyed a revival in the 1980s where it was popularized as an All-American classic sported by Michael Jackson during his iconic Bad Album period. Run D.M.C. rapped in theirs and Harrison Ford looked the part of an adventurous archaeologist in his for the Indiana Jones trilogy. Since the hat appeared on the runways back in 2007, Cameron Diaz, Keira Knightley and Kate Moss gave the hat a female twist, popularizing it as a clever celebrity cover up.

Authentic fashion interpreter, Kate Moss said she tries to be “a character” when she gets dressed, “I don’t think of it as ‘Ooh, it’s me,’ she explains. “I think, ‘Who do I want to be?'”

If you love to wear a hat, skip the tyranny of the micro trend and embrace the timeless classic. If you find an authentic vintage fedora with a wide brim that’s built to last and – and most importantly –  that you absolutely love, wear it. It could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

Want to catch up on some more fashion history?

Now & Then: the History of the Ballet Flat

Now & Then: The History of Shorts

Now & Then: Met Ball’s Most Memorable Dresses

Now & Then: The History of the Breton Shirt

Now & Then: The History of the Platform Shoe

Now & Then: The History of Fitness Wear

Now & Then: The History of the Pencil Skirt

Now & Then: The History of the Cocktail Dress

Now & Then: The History of Skinny Jeans

Read more Now & Then articles here.

The post Now & Then: The History of the Fedora appeared first on EcoSalon.

I’ve watched eco-fashion’s sizzling new designer Christopher Raeburn‘s film for his Spring/Summer Dazzle collection of jackets made from redeployed parachute silk, over and over again. It’s a nebulous fashion moment that I can’t quite put my finger on.

There are fashion moments we’ve all connected to. When I first saw Alexander McQueen’s amazing hologram of Kate Moss, fat tears heaved out of me. And Jackie Kennedy’s decision to keep on her blood-splattered pink Chanel suit for Lyndon Johnson’s swearing in, affects me even as a Brit. Then there are personal fashion moments. The first time I laid eyes on an Ossie Clark dress, for instance. The genius in its bias-cut intuitively understood how to flatter my shape before even I had it figured out.

I went down to San Joaquin Valley to look at California’s cotton farms last week. My neighbor on the bus and I were talking about our emotional connections to our clothes. At first, she’d insisted her clothes were just a uniform. Then, she remembered a special piece that had some significance. Would she ever throw it away, I asked? Her eyes delighted me, as they fixed onto a far away gaze.

Back to the point, and there is one – although I’ve warned you this is pretty nebulous stuff. Another memorable personal fashion moment occurred this year, when I opened up Vogue’s August issue to see Blake Lively wearing Christopher Raeburn’s battledress wool inuit parka (shown below). Not only was it my first introduction to the talented designer. I realized that the eco-fashion movement had produced something that stood on its own design merits, a lone eco note among conventional fashions in the industry’s bible. That parka was really cool. And, I really, really wanted one.

Three months later – I still really, really want one, by the way – and Vogue is seemingly foaming green at the mouth with articles on Marni’s recycled drinking bottle necklace, a locally-made skin care line and Stella McCartney’s enchanting country estate. I think it’s really great. I noted the somewhat flimsy eco-provenance of some of the looks in the “Naturally Refined” layout, shot by Patrick Demarchelier, but I’ve decided that undermining ‘baby steps’ is not the point either.

Ironically enough, the environment isn’t the only victim to fashion’s mass market appetite. The industry’s creative talent suffers too. The “mega-corporations are making creativity more difficult every season. The struggle between the demands of marketing and the freedom and needs of the creative process, the pressure to constantly sell more and to keep upping the ante on the shows with more celebrities and always more press coverage, these are the things that are literally killing fashion” – someone else’s point, by the way.

There are lots of great ideas about what sustainable fashion needs to be defining and some inspired critical thinking – like this – about how to maneuver the luxury goods market.  If we want to produce  “heirlooms-in-waiting” as “an antidote to throwaway fashion,” we’ve go to embrace our emotional connection to clothes, and celebrate the industry’s creativity and aspirational fashion editorial – and the enduring desire it induces. It all matters. It’s all the point.

Back to Christopher Raeburn‘s cute little fashion moment – what do you think? I still haven’t really figured out why, but it makes me happy every time I watch it. And maybe, that’s the point too?

The post Happiness Is Fashion: What’s the Point? appeared first on EcoSalon.

For the perfect parable of how current fashion mores have come into alignment with sustainable design concepts, take a look at Los Angeles-based jeweler, Jeffrey Levin, and his eco-minded, stacking rings.

The locally manufactured rings, in recycled silver, gold and rose gold, exemplify the unexpected richness of fashion’s current mix and match style. Along with their white, black, and chocolate diamonds sourced and certified conflict-free, the rings land a solid eco blow. Instead of head-to-toe designer looks, the current fashion ethos favors a melding of mass market with thrift store and vintage with high-end designer to create a look that feels modern. And while you might have thought it was all Kate Moss’ idea, this concept of modularity is informing design across all disciplines.

The eco benefit of all this modularity for the jewelry-lover is there’s no waste. Unlike the days where ladies wore pearls with pastels during the day and gold with black in the evening, there now isn’t really a need to have extra jewelry waiting for the right occasion. Jewelry consumers are embracing mixing metals and hanging convention.

Inspired by his recent engagement, Levin’s stacking rings represent a metaphor for the relationship and the varied levels as they build one on another – from coming together, to the engagement, to the wedding and on to the milestones yet realized. So, while the true inspiration of this story is discovering an eco-modern classic that masterfully melds diverse elements – if for no other reason, invest for love’s sake.

Available online at jeffreylevin.com.

The post Unexpected Treasures: Jeffrey Levin’s Stacking Rings appeared first on EcoSalon.

Kate Moss has secured her status as a modern-day style icon, and such a position doesn’t come without merit. Celebrating her fabulous style that is constantly changing and yet always translates as a ‘Kate Moss’ look, we’ve decided to dissect her signature style and provide you with eco-staples to achieve her effortless eclectic look.

1. Alkemie Jewelry: Zodiac Charm Necklace made from 100% reclaimed metal in Los Angeles.

2. Edun: Oversized Abstract Symbol Tee from the new collection, made in Tanzania from 100% organic cotton.

3. Matt & Nat: Nash Bag made from vegan leather and 100% recycled faux suede lining.

4. Cri de Coeur: Jamie Draped Vamp Bootie with Ties made of supple faux suede, so don’t worry about getting them wet!

5. Loomstate: Revelation Blue Sky Jeans are 98% organic cotton and only lightly dyed for a sky blue wash.

We all might be holding our breath to see what Miss Moss wears next, but at least now we’ve got her style basics covered!

The post Embrace Eclectic Style a la Kate Moss appeared first on EcoSalon.

Tie dye conjures up snap shots of music festivals in mud from a period past, but with a modern spin this trend is back in! In fact, it has a sister trend to support it – the dip dye. With both, the key is to not have the dye look too calculated or crazy. It’s an interesting balance, but one that adds a bit of texture to your outfit in a fresh new way.

Jaws dropped in utter lust at the Proenza Shouler S/S 2010 runway show, and celebs quickly caught the tie dye trend, pairing it with solid casual pieces to make it effortless and cool. We are loving the eco labels who are on top of this spring trend: Jonano, Frei and SUST.

From bold colors to more of the subtle tonal fades – this is a look that is ripe for spring weather with a little attitude! Keep your accessories neutral and let the tie or dip dye piece make the statement. The best part about this trend is that it is a true day to night converter. So ‘fess up: you are loving this trippy trend as much as we are!

This is the first installment in new fashion writer Greta Eagan’s column, Trending, on seasonal fashion trends and how to green them up. Say hi to Greta!

Graphics: Greta Eagan

The post A Spring Trend to Dye for appeared first on EcoSalon.

Stella McCartney Spring 2010 RTW

Identifying trends only draws attention to the need for the masses to fall in when comes to uniform chic, despite the artistic license we all have to strut our stuff with individual flair.

Eco-designers are out there, in more ways than one, often pushing the envelope with fabrics and structures, making the term trend less significant than the term evolved. So check out the nearest eco-boutique and find the sustainably designed must-have that best fits you, and your lifestyle.

Looking ahead to 2010 and back over some 2009 trends we predicted, a few fashion gems have stuck while others refreshingly, went away. While we don’t go in for every fast fad, we wouldn’t be a very good eco fashion blog if we didn’t keep you up to date on the best eco fashion trends, would we?

Totally Turquoise

While more mainstream neons and jewel tones seem to have usurped last year’s neutral tones, one color stands out most for 2010: turquoise.

Rifle through your jewelry drawer and find those chunky rings, beaded necklaces and vintage blouses with the cool blue hue and you’re sure to be the girl of the moment.

Cynthia Steffe Spring 2010

Corsets Galore

Corsets anyone? Designers love them this season and are pairing them with equally form-fitting bottoms for a tough look and feminine A-line skirts for a bit of romance.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2010

Gilded Warrior

Were you going gaga for folk dresses and bohemian tops last year? Well my friend, strangely, we’ve gone from happy-go-lucky flower girls to hardcore warriors who dress like they’re angry about it.

Sass & Bide Spring/Summer 2010

Leather, not Pleather

Vegan? This is the year of the anti-green for you with leather being the skinny everywhere, from form-fitted turtlenecks to biker jackets.

Kate Moss

Any Denim Will Do

I feel ashamed to say anything about denim. I write this with a pair of ripped jeans on (and yes, distressed is still in) but my jeans are five years old and just happened to give way round the knees.

Do I have other pairs? Of course: organic denim leggings for under flowy tops and too short dresses, boot cuts to go over my signature Frye boots and pocketless skinny jeans to erase as much weight as possible off my hips and derriere.

Black, blue, grey, faded and torn are all in my drawers. Hey! I just listed the last 10 years of denim!

Oscar De La Renta Spring/Summer 2010

Play Clothes

Full skirts have been replaced with something even better: Short shorts, jumpsuits and playsuits! Get your Seventies on! (Note: tongue firmly planted in cheek.) Now, before you cringe, consider this romper from Prairie Underground. Of all the shows I’ve attended, this one stood out as a piece that might actually be doable, especially with the leggings underneath.

Prairie Underground’s Romp Around the Clock Spring 2010

Shoulder Pads Go Ultra Mod

Just when you thought the trend of shoulder pads was gone, some designer took acid and decided, “Let’s go Battlestar Galactica and put points on our shoulders,” (see warrior dressing also).

I was at a clothing swap recently and grabbed myself a really cute vintage, black blazer and it just happened to have shoulder pads. I tried to convince myself I could wear it but with broad shoulders I looked like an idiot. Designers, please: stop it with the pads!

From New York Magazine

Color Me Mine

One thing I love for 2010 is that you can fake it – dress like you know something about fashion and get away with knowing nothing.
Mix prints and funky graphics with florals and stripes, throw in some color and a long necklace or two and you’re likely going to be right on trend.

Dries Van Noten Spring 2010

Varsity Girl

One of the strangest trends looking forward is the “I want to be a high school boy in the locker room” look, or more formally, the “Sports Fashion Trend.”

Always wanted to wear a sport bra alone in public? How about football pants? Well, you’re in for some fun.

Raid your son’s football duffel bag for inspiration or go to the nearest tennis court and see how outfits might translate into street fashion. Tomboy cool? No thanks – I don’t need a jock strap to be hip.

Alexander Wang Spring 2010

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