Flax is cultivated to produce both flax seeds and a fibrous stalk that can be broken down, spun into yarn and woven into a cloth we know as linen. Linen is an ancient textile that has embedded itself into our culture, as even the term ‘linens’ implies a type of woven bed, bath and kitchen textile, because these items were traditionally made out of flax fiber.

Today, a revamped and eco-friendly linen has become a relatively costly textile that has been showcased on runways by the likes of Celine, Lanvin, Stella McCartney and even Uniqlo collections. But why has the fashion world frenzied over this relatively humble fiber? The Fiber Watch series investigates the story behind this natural fabric to find out why and learn how sustainable it is.

The first evidence of woven linen dates back to at least 8,000 BC, as researchers have found fragments of the flax plant and various fabrics woven from it in early Swiss lakeside dwellings. Long before its fashion debut, linen was the mummification cloth of choice for the ancient Egyptians, and has since become a staple household and garment textile that has been used by both Western and Eastern civilizations.

Linen is a naturally eco-friendly and toxin-free material that is cool to the touch, softens through wash and wear, and proves to be extremely durable. This bast fiber, which belongs to the same group as hemp, jute and ramie, is made from the long fibers inside the stalk of the plant. It requires no pesticides for cultivation in its native Central Europe, and the basic production of linen fabric doesn’t require chemicals.

The longest flax fibers are often up to 3 feet long, making flax superior to cotton in length and durability. However, linen is often shunned in fashion circles because of how easily it wrinkles and loses shape. Lucky for today’s designers, modern day fabric manufacturers have developed a whole new range of linen fabrics that are woven into jerseys, blended with Spandex or left raw for a vintage look, offering up linen that is less wrinkly, less transparent and much more versatile than several types of cotton and wool blends. Researchers are also finding ways to apply linen fibers as substitutes for carbon fibers in skis, tennis rackets and even violins.

Currently, about two-thirds of the roots of the flax plant are based in a narrow belt of farmland that weaves its way from northern France to the Netherlands. Around 200,000 acres of flax fields are scattered among the sugar-beet and feed corn crops that inhabit this region. Summertime flax fields are seas of small blue flowers that turn into rattling seed heads (full of flax seed) when ready to harvest in the fall. After harvest, the flax plants are left to lay in the field for a process called “retting” whereby alternate days of sun and rain cause the outer fibers to decay, making the long inner fibers accessible. These are then processed in either China (where 80% of linen is manufactured) or through a local farmers’ cooperative in Normandy, which produces the bulk of raw linen yarn sent to high-end Italian weavers.

So what’s the draw towards this fiber for high fashion? Other than the qualities of modern linen as described above, fine linen is a rather specialty material. Flax is a high-maintenance plant, making its production limited. The French and Dutch regions where the plant is cultivated are specifically ideal for flax, and the processing of the fiber has been refined into a passion for the farmers and fibre artisans of the region. Not only does the exclusivity of the fiber make it attractive, but the increasing importance of transparency and ethical production practices make it a responsible choice.

The supply chain of linen is clearly evident when obtained from France and the Netherlands, especially if it has stayed within a 100-mile radius from seed to finished fabric. The pride that the area’s linen farmers and fiber workers display is evident in each gorgeous creation that struts its way down the runway.

Main Photo Credit: Denis Collette…!!! Others: Blueberry Buckle, nickdoherty, Celine

Related on EcoSalon:

Why Hemp Makes Sustainable, Durable, Fabulous Fashion: Fiber Watch

Fiber Watch: The Bast is Yet to Come

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Originating in the Philippines as a lightweight option for their hot and moist island climates, pineapple fabrics and their lustrous qualities are catching the eye of luxury and couture designers. 

Although pineapple fabrics were first created in the Philippines, the pineapple plant actually originated in South America around the region of Paraguay. In the 16^th century, Spaniards invaded the Northern Philippines and planted pineapple plants they had discovered in the Americas since they deemed them to do well in the tropical climate.

The Spanish settlers also had a long list of demands to establish among the native Filipino population, one of them being that all should be fully clothed from head to toe. This was understandably ridiculous and impractical to the indigenous peoples who had for centuries maintained their local wisdom and lack of bodily shame through staying comfortable and cool by baring all.

However, since the Spaniards had the advantage of armaments, the natives decided to adhere to the pressure to wear garments and devised a way to weave cloth from the newly planted pineapple plants. Having developed methods for weaving cloth from their native banana and abaca leaves, the Filipino population discovered similarities between sheath leaves of all three plants.

Through experimentation, they realized how pineapple leaves rendered a gossamer fabric that was diaphanous, breathable and had excellent cooling properties. Ideal for the tropical climate, the material also managed to meet the European standards of being properly clothed.

Weaving of the pineapple leaves into this graceful fabric continued, and rapidly rose in popularity among European fashion circles by the 19^th century. Parisians in particular coveted the fabric, and in 1850 Filipino officials gifted a petticoat and undergarments made from pineapple fabric to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert of the British Empire. The material was held in favor until the cheaper and more easily obtainable option of cotton overtook the textile industry by the end of the 19^th century.

The process of obtaining pineapple fabrics is long and arduous, due to the fact that it is mostly done by hand. The leaves are first soaked to soften the plant gums, then scraped to obtain the fibers, and hung to dry in the open air. Once waxed to remove tangles, they are then knotted and spun into a lustrous, white yarn.

As pineapple yarn is extremely delicate, working and weaving with it requires precision and patience. The resultant fabric is a glossy but slightly stiff, ivory-colored material that is considered one of the finest materials by the Philippines, and also used for their ceremonial Barong Tagalog outfits.

Pineapple fabric is known as piña (the Spanish word for pineapple), and can be woven in combination with other fibers such as cotton, banana leaf, silk and polyester. The fiber takes natural dyes very well, and is usually only dyed without the use of chemicals. The glossy surface of the material also eliminates the need for toxic treating agents, since it acts as a protective layer for the fabric in itself. Softer than hemp and better in quality than raw silk, piña is like a lightweight, lustrous and smooth, linen material. As an added bonus, it is easy to wash, not requiring dry-cleaning.

Although these qualities make piña the perfect material for ethereal clothing, it is very expensive due to the time and skills involved in processing. It has therefore caught the eye of luxury fashion designers such as Oliver Tolentino (a Filipino) and Rania Salibi. Tolentino has turned the natural material into a star of the red carpet by creating gowns and cocktail dresses and suits for the likes of Emmy Rossum, Cee Lo Green, Tatyana Ali and Anna Paquin, alongside crafting beautiful bridal wear. Having also won several awards for sustainable fashion competitions with designs that incorporate pineapple fabric, Tolentino has been credited with introducing the piña to Hollywood and Western fashion circles.

Who knows, perhaps the states of Florida and Hawaii will see sustainable opportunities for re-learning and preserving handcrafts and luxurious materials with the waste from their pineapple industries.

Images: THIS Co.

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The White Circle Tea Towel from Pawling is made from 100% linen.

Pawling Print Studio is run out of DC and New York by sisters Trisha and Janet Snyder. The two have a thing for environmentally responsible production, clean design, and…well, cleaning in general.

After spotting the White Circles tea towel from Pawling, one has to wonder why 90 percent of American households use paper towels as opposed to investing in reusable, high-end and eco-friendly tea towels instead. Considering the long-term cost ($13.99 for a six-pack of throwaway Brawny vs. $24 for a reusable Pawling tea towel), our continued paper towel use just doesn’t add up.

All of the tea towels from Pawling are made from 100% linen, which softens and becomes more absorbent with use. They are also machine washable, hand sewn and screen-printed in studio. And they’re very, very pretty.

Look for Lustables daily at EcoSalon. 100% gorgeous green finds, and never sponsored. Submit your favorite to tips@ecosalon.com

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Dallas based designer Koch fuses materials to make sustainable chic.

Linen and rhinestone come together to make the prettiest jacket for spring and summer from Dallas based Koch. Designer Nicole Musselman’s beach girl meets city vibe shakes hands “Looking effortlessly chic while living a busy, sometimes chaotic, occasionally glamorous life,” a goal we all want to strive for.

Editor’s note: We are proud to bring you original columns and feature editorials at EcoSalon on a daily basis. But sometimes, nothing’s more pleasurable than admiring a beautiful, innovative or special sustainable product or idea. Throughout each week, look for “lustables” in the mix here at EcoSalon. And if you have a product you think readers should see, drop us a line at tips@ecosalon.com.

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To Dry For is to die for. An entire website of graphically intoxicating tea towels is seriously alluring, especially since the season of entertaining is nearly here. Why not add a little charm to the least glamorous facet of entertaining, the heaps of dishes left behind by mounds of visitors. The collection of tea towels at To Dry For has given me the perfect excuse to escape the dish soap and suds for the appeal of an unexpected pop of glamor. You wash, I’ll dry.

This is the perfect time of year to fall in love with tea towels. Not only will they gently wick the water off your favorite dishware set, but they also provide a subtle conversation topic for the dreaded after dinner lull (although it’s generally a bad sign if your kitchen linens have more personality than your guests). For a vivid touch of charisma, just dangle one in your kitchen. Or, assuming you want to make your host/hostess swoon, tea towels are a beautiful hostess gift.

If confections of linen and cotton aren’t enough to entice your visit to To Dry For, maybe the little known facts and clever anecdotes will lure you into reading every single product description for a dose of subliminal education while you peruse. Did you know lobsters have blue blood? Did you know the Albert Bridge is the only bridge in London that has never been rebuilt?

I couldn’t resist sharing a handful of my beloved tea towels. Above, from left to right: Irons, You Wash, I’ll Dry, and Sardines. Below, from left to right: Mid Century Chairs, A Meal Without Wine, and Dirty.

I may not be able to sleep tonight if I don’t point you toward this mustard yellow Tea Rex towel and this “˜t’ towel (I know, the wit is almost unbearable). Enjoy!

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It might be gray and raining outside, but a few days into 2010 and I’m already looking forward to spring designs. This might be because as far as fashion goes, more and more designers and big names in the industry are opting for sustainable materials. Today’s spotlight is on fashion-giant H&M, which this week announced the spring Garden Collection.

They tell me it’s all about floral patterns this spring, and fortunately, looking fresh and fun will also be eco-friendly. All of the garments in the new line have been made using sustainable materials or textile waste.

On its list of sustainable materials, H&M has incorporated organic cotton, organic linen, recycled polyester and tencel, the renewable fiber that’s quickly making its way into eco-designers’ repertoires.

H&M isn’t new to sustainable design, and they’re well aware of conventional cotton’s impact on the environment. The company started using organic cotton back in 2004, and in the last three years, they’ve increased the amount of organic cotton they use from 30 to 3,000 tons.

As an international fashion company, H&M is a key player in the industry, and increasing demand for organic cotton in turn helps organic cotton farmers. The company is also committed to ensuring that more farmers switch to organic, by supporting transitional cotton growing; converting from conventional to organic cotton production is a process that usually takes three years and working with farmers that are in that process helps keep the industry growing.

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