EcoSalon caught up with fashion designer Tara St. James of Study NY on her latest socially conscious collaboration with prison women in Mexico, ethical fashion and what made in NYC really means.

Juliette Donatelli: Your newest work involves a collaboration with a women’s prison in Mexico. How are you working together and how did the partnership evolve?

Tara St. James: On a recent trip to Oaxaca I discovered a shoe line that I really loved called Taller Nu. I got along very well with the designers, they invited me to their workshop in Mexico City, so we decided to do a collaboration together. They work with a women’s prison group. They train them to do cross-stitch on leather, and they use that cross-stitch for their shoes. What I did was send them an image of one of the sweater knits that I am doing from Peru, and I asked them to reinterpret that knit pattern into a cross-stitch. So they did the interpretation themselves, I approved it and we designed the shoes and the bag together. That will be for late summer, fall delivery because of the lead time. I will be working directly with the designers and the collaboration co-op.

JD: The cross-stitch is done in Mexico. Are the shoes also made in Mexico?

TSJ: Yeah, everything is done in Mexico. They source the leather there, it is all domestic leather. They have it perforated so the cross-stitch can be done more easily. They bring just the panels to the prison and give them the instruction.

What is really kind of interesting that I love about it, is that if you look inside the panels each one has a different finishing on the inside. You can tell it is done by different women, and it’s just the way they interpret it. So on the outside they are all uniform, but on the inside they all have this signature.  I love that. And I love that you can see that.

And the only other thing I am importing are these alpaca knits from Peru. I have been working with this women-run co-op there for about a year now and this is the first development that we have done together.

And then the rest of the collection is made here in NYC.

The other thing that I am launching for this year, which will be early than fall, it will be a spring launch, is the open back shirt dress style that I always do. But instead of one piece, I am doing it as a piece that can be worn different ways, and convertible. So you can mix and match the fabric and remove certain panels or add on other panels.

JD: What about made in NYC? Is that a selling point for your brand?

TSJ: As far as wholesale buyers are concerned, I find the reaction not super encouraging. They are not all that inspired by it, although I think they like having the story to tell to their customers. Because I do see the reaction, you know when we had this space [Market 605] as a retail space, people coming in, whether they were tourists or New Yorkers, loved the fact that everything was made here. And so I think having that story associated with the brand, or even part of the brand, is important for the buyers, not for themselves necessarily, although some of them really care, but they like to communicate that to their customers.

I am not sure a lot of people are seeking it out yet, but they are definitely interested in it.

I have always felt the same way about the sustainability of the brand: I don’t think people really care about organic cotton, as long as it felt good and could be worn easily and washed easily and cared for easily. So it was really my responsibility to make it sustainable, but also my responsibility to make the design last long and be a quality good. And part of that is making it here in New York, I think the workmanship here is just good. I am lucky, I have a great factory that I work with and they do a really great job. I am not going to lie, I have had great factories in China too that do a really really great job but if I can get that quality and workmanship here then why shouldn’t I?

Want more interviews? See also:

Hannah Jones, Nike VP of Sustainable Business: Behind-The-Scenes Interview (Part 1)

Interview: Nike’s VP of Sustainable Business Hannah Jones (Part 2)

Interview: Author Kate Fletcher On New Fashion & Sustainability Book

Author Interview: Elizabeth Cline of Overdressed The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion

images: Study NY

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One half of the dynamic ethical fashion label, Feral Childe’s Alice Wu, chats with EcoSalon for an inside discussion on their work as made in New York City designers.

Designing all their prints by hand, the bi-coastal team, Moriah Carlson, in Brooklyn, and Alice Wu, in Oakland, are never short of eye-catching designs, easy feminine silhouettes and intelligent ethical values. We sat down with Alice Wu of Feral Childe to talk about their carefully sourced fabrics, ethical production and why having a keen eye for practicality matters for sustainability.

Juliette Donatelli: Feral Childe is best known for its prints and fabrics. Where are the prints made and is there a story behind them?

Alice Wu: Some of the prints are done right in Los Angeles. We use a sample dye house in Marin so we work with our dye guy to create the sample palette for the season. We have our printer print one color and do different dye lots. The same fabric comes out different ways so you get a nice tonal range.

This one is actually printed in Korea. So our silks come from either Korea or India. It depends on what fabric our suppliers have on offer. Everyone has different specialties and fiber qualities. We used a silk linen which was really nice. And for a really vibrant silk, this is digitally printed on a silk cotton.

So we make the image and then we try to find the right fabric partner to do it. Then you have to wrestle with the fabric to make it into the garment. But we try to make it fun altogether.

JD: And all the clothes are made in NYC?

AW: Yes, all the clothes are made either in midtown sewing facilities or we also have started working work sewing contractors in Sunset Park.

JD: When you have a buyer, or the general public come in and see the collection or see the clothing in a store, and then find out they are made in NYC, is that a selling point?

AW: It is. I think people like it. I think it is really wonderful to know the person who made your clothes, to say hello, and thank you for cutting my fabric and putting it together. It adds a very personal touch to something you are going to be wearing for a long time. That is something that is very important to Moriah and me–to try to work with people we can interface with. Even my fabric supplier from India I have met. The first time we worked together was over email, but about a year later he came to New York on business and we met up. It was really wonderful to put a face to all the email correspondences.

JD: How important is it to you to think about where and what fabrics you are using?

AW: For us it is very important to consider materials and where they come from at all steps of the design process. It is choosing materials that have meaning.

In the beginning, whether that meant discovering Garment District castoffs or remnant fabrics, we like to have a story to go along with the fabrics we find. Even though we aren’t necessarily working with remnant fabrics right now–we are creating our own–it is still important for us to have personal connections with the fabric suppliers that we are in contact with each season and to know as much as we can about where the fabrics are coming from, whether they are durable, and are they easy to care for.

It is less important that it is specifically organic — but we try to use organic whenever possible just because it is better for everybody. But for example, even though this is not organic cotton, [this fabric] is woven in Japan working with a small mill that has restored all this vintage production equipment. So you could say it is more of an artisan fabric or made by people who really care.

For instance, take [a product] blend of modal, cotton and polyester. There was a time where I thought, ‘I am never going to make anything with polyester again, I am only going to use natural fibers.’ But if there is a little bit of poly blended with natural fibers it sometimes helps to make the garment withstand more wear and tear. You can throw it in the washing machine, or we have customers that are vegan but want to look nice. So there are lots of things to consider.  But we certainly want to make things to treasure.

Related on EcoSalon

Author Interview: Elizabeth Cline of Overdressed The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion

Interview: Author Kate Fletcher On New Fashion & Sustainability Book

Hannah Jones, Nike VP of Sustainable Business: Behind-The-Scenes Interview (Part 1)

Interview: Nike’s VP of Sustainable Business Hannah Jones (Part 2)

images: photographed by Jonathan Hökklo for the brand

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EcoSalon sits down for a fun conversation with jewelry designer Natalie Frigo on her made in New York ethically sourced stones, the three kinds of fashion consumers and what it takes for people to change.

Juliette Donatelli: All your jewelry is made in New York. How important is that to your customer?

Natalie Frigo: I launched my first line in 2010 and I would say that it was made in NYC, and it didn’t matter at all. Nobody cared. There were, like, three people who cared. How could you not care about this? This is awesome! You don’t want something domestic? There would be a couple of stores that would say, ‘Oh, we love that. We will totally promote that.’

So, now people are more excited about it. And I have people who will contact me –buyers and retail customers who will contact me and say, ‘I love your designs, but then I saw it was made in New York, and I knew I wanted to get it.’ And it’s this thing that justifies it to them.

If you are interested in that it matters, but this is not going to convince you to be interested in that.

I definitely still get from buyers, they seem to understand it more, but I do get a resistance on price because my stuff is made domestically. And my stones are ethically sourced. If you don’t know where your stones are coming from, it is like apparel, a little child cut that stone. There is no question in my mind. I would put money on it. Awful. My stones are not like that. They cost more money–two to ten times as much. And so some people are like, ‘Oh yeah, that’s all great but our customer won’t pay more.’ They like the designs but there is a price resistance and they would just rather have a cheaper good. As much as they think that it’s great that it’s made domestically, it’s not worth it to them, or they don’t want to educate their customer or try to get a new customer base.

JD: What do you think it would take?

NF: Really. What could it take? How much more information do you need to make things domestically? The economy fell from underneath us.

There was a woman who came in [to Market 605], she was dressed pretty cute, and she started going through the clothes. I was wearing something from Feral Childe, and I said ‘I love this jacket, I just bought it.’

And she looks at the tag and it’s a four hundred dollar jacket and she’s like, ‘Oh yeah. That’s too expensive.’

And I said, ‘Well, you know, it is an investment piece. I am going to have it for a really long time, it’s very classic, this isn’t going to go out of style.’

And she said, ‘Yeah, I don’t shop like that. I buy multiple things every season and I never invest in anything. I have friends that do that, I am so impressed. But I can’t do that.’

You can do that right this second! You could get that one thing right now and just start. So people who shop like that are also the buyers.

What does it take to change a person?! I feel like some people are just never going to think it matters. And then there are people on the fence, and the more they learn about it they get super excited. And then there are people who have always known about it and they’ve always been into it and they are all about it.

I would say most of my accounts are galleries or local stores that have been in their communities for a long time and are interested in developing relationships.

JD: It’s all about the relationships we build.

NF: Yeah. You don’t have to have everything made domestically but you could have some things. People want to buy domestically, but they are so used to not having to pay for things on that level.

JD: Getting the conversation started is so important. If Michelle Obama, someone who is always being asked who she is wearing, made a simple statement about where it was made, because it was probably made in the USA because of the designers she wears and the quality of the pieces–a little awareness like that could go really far. 

NF: Yes, we need good fashionable ambassadors.

I got into a conversation with this guy, he was one of the workers at a show that I was setting up for. He came over to my booth, and said, ‘Oh your stuff is really cool,’ and I said thanks, it’s made in NYC. He said, ‘That’s awesome. I had to stop buying Carhartt because they don’t make it in America anymore, they make it in Mexico.’

He was amazing! Just this regular guy wearing t-shirt and jeans, and he’s all mad because Carhartt stopped producing domestically. You need people like that in all walks of life. He’s probably lecturing his friend non stop about wearing something made in China!

Related on EcoSalon

The Promising Future of Men’s Fashion: An Interview With the Discerning Brute’s Joshua Katcher

Interview: Lingerie Line Enamore Promotes Design Over Eco

The Insourcing Trend: What is the Impact of Clothing Made in the USA?

images from the brand

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Using patented no-waste technology, knitwear brand Kotoba makes pieces that are as conscious as they are covetable.

At New York Fashion Week, knitwear seemed to make an appearance in some form on just about every runway. On Thursday, collective knitwear brand Kotoba celebrated the launch of their Spring/Summer 2013 collection with a fun, low-key presentation at The Maritime Hotel in the Meatpacking District.

Kotoba is the Japanese word for language and the collection, designed by Melinda Danko and Lindsay Mann, featured timeless pieces in simple, versatile silhouettes enhanced by unexpected structural details and textures. Basics in black, taupe and ivory were complemented by pieces in bright and playful colors, particularly orange and mint green, two of the most on trend hues this fall and going into spring.

“We were inspired by multiple things, but it all came down to leisure activity,” says Melinda Danko. “We thought about the one thing that people forget to do, which is how to enjoy themselves – how to have fun doing sport activities, going to the beach, taking care of environment – things that are important in life.” This playful spirit was evident in the presentation, as the models were given props like footballs, skateboards and baseball bats.

“Lindsay and I developed the collection very organically,” says Danko. “We just burst out ideas and silhouettes and with the yarns we have it just came together. We started with one design and it all just fell into place after that”

All the pieces in the collection are produced using WHOLEGARMENT technology, a patented production technique derived from Shima Seiki, a Japanese knitwear machine manufacturer that has been around for fifty years, but has more recently, in the past five years, developed knitting machines for making clothing. It’s an innovative way of producing knitwear that is lightweight and stretchy and made virtually without any waste.

“We wanted to bring back crafts and trade and the sustainability aspect to the U.S. domestic market,” says Danko. “Everything we make is seamless, there’s no waste in the production, and the entire collection (except the yarns, which are from Italy) is made in America”

Kotoba’s spring collection is everything I love about sustainable fashion – it’s locally and ethically produced (in NYC’s Garment District), using innovative technology, but it’s also fun, sexy, wearable and timeless.

Danko says: “We make qaulity garments that, yes, you are going to spend more money on. But the lifetime and durability makes them pieces that you can have in your wardrobe and love for years.”

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Beauty and brilliance meet in Allison Parris’ Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

When you meet Allison Parris and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection, you can’t help but smile. Words like charming, pretty, party and fun fill the air. Parris, in her eighth year of showing her own, eponymous line, seems at ease with it all. In her words, the collection is simply “light and happy.” But, below the fancy frill lies more than just the cheerful and feminine. It is femininity at its best—powerful, free and evocative.

“Right now, when you have so many strong, ambitious, stylish and successful women to look up to, that’s who girls should admire,” Parris tells EcoSalon. “Not Brittany Spears and Lindsay Lohan,” she adds. That’s why nearly each dress in the collection is inspired by (and named after) one of her closest friends who fit the bill of brilliant and beautiful.

With this upcoming season, Parris has stayed true to her roots, keeping her raw silk organza and recycled PET tutu-style dresses, while introducing other glitzy, body-hugging styles like the Arden dress (above) and the Greta (below), both lined with recycled PET from the U.S. The finished garments are also made in the U.S.—close to Parris’ home in the New York Garment District. “I need a little contrast in my life,” says Parris about her new sequin numbers.

Designer, Allison Parris, models her new look, The Arden dress.

Other pieces are fresh takes on the full-bodied skirt style. The Julia (below), made from embroidered cotton, effortlessly takes the woman who wears her from day to evening—a place Parris calls “our sweet spot.” And if anyone knows about hitting the sweet spot head on, it’s Parris.

More looks we love:

Images: Jennifer Barckley

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Versatile basics with edgy details, easy-to-walk-in wedges and an extra-roomy bag are a New York City girl’s best friends.

There’s no doubt that New York City girls have a certain edge to their style. It’s all about basics with unexpected details – and yes, black. Heels are a must and wedges keep things comfortable. And always carry a big, stylish bag – because who has time to go home before the night begins?

Alkemie Ruler Bangle
Although it’s handmade in Los Angeles, this bangle is cast from a vintage NYC-approved ruler (possibly made in Buffalo, NY). It’s made from 100% reclaimed metal and adds just the right amount of unexpected quirk to an outfit.
$154, Alkemie 

Alpaca Slouch Hat by Mayu
A hat is a must for New Yorkers in the winter — to protect ears from sub-zero chills. This slouchy hat is hand-knit with 100% Peruvian Alpaca fiber and made according to fair trade principles.
On sale for $50, Mayu

NYC Necklace
You know you’re proud to be a New Yorker. Show your love for the Big Apple by wearing this necklace, made in Brooklyn from old, recycled records.
$38, Teich 

Thieves Armour Skirt
This high-waist fitted skirt is made from hemp wool suiting (45% hemp, 40% wool & 15% tencel) and covered with beeswaxed organic cotton, which gives it a great “aged leather” look. Definitely not your average pencil skirt, this one brings a fresh supply of attitude.
On sale for $173.25, Thieves

Crewneck Sweater by Edun
This sweater by Ali Hewson’s Edun is a sexy, edgy alternative to the ol’ cashmere basic. The strategic pattern of the knits keep it from becoming too revealing. We all know we need to leave a little for the imagination, right? Wear it to work underneath a blazer and on it’s own for a night on the town.
$312, Juno & Jove 

Sabine Triangle Bag by The Sway
Every girl in NYC needs a big bag that can easily go from day to night and will hold anything from heels and workout clothes to lunch boxes and reading material for the subway. This bucket-style messenger bag is extra-roomy and has both double shoulder straps and a removable cross-body strap. It’s made from soft upcycled patchwork leather and lined with The Sway‘s signature Aboriginal-inspired organic fabric.
$490, The Sway 

Millenium Black Wedges by OlsenHaus
These 100% vegan wedges by OlsenHaus are made from ultra suede and faux leather and feature a blonde pine wooden wedge heel. The mix of materials keep things interesting and the wedge heels ensure that you can walk the entire length of Manhattan if need be.
$300, OlsenHaus 

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Let your inner green girl shine through in delicious shades of olive.

Green is gorgeous, I think we all agree on that. For a shade that will look great on anyone and go with anything, try donning delicious hues of olive. Pair with other jewel-tones for a personal take on the color-blocking trend or with blacks, grays and browns for a more subtle look.

H Fredriksson Dolman Cardigan
This 100% Alpaca Hand knit Dolman Cardigan is Fairtrade and organic, made in Bolivia in a small mountain village women’s collective. It’s the warmest softest fiber around, and you can wash it in the machine.
$396, H Fredriksson 

Hearts of Darkness Possess Slit-back Bootie
The tonal mix of faux leather and suede bring distinction to these vegan booties. A slit detail in the back brings some added flair. Also available in black, gray and chocolate. Made in an ethical, sweat-shop free factory in China.
$130, Cri De Coeur 

San Isabel Necklace by Green Diva
This sweet little necklace is made with Fair Trade recycled glass, Fair Trade Tagua nut and 100% recycled sterling and fine silver chain and findings. Green Diva Jewelry is a member of 1% For The Planet, which means they donate 1% of their profit to environmental causes.
$95, Green With Glamour 

Begonia Clay Organic Cotton Tank Top by IDEO
This tank top is a great a wardrobe basic, but pretty subtle tone on tone sparkle details on shoulders make it a little more fun. Ethically made in India under fair labor standards using SKAL certified production processes using ECOCERT label Organic cotton and water-based, PVC-free dyes.
$23, Fairtribe

Mujus Piel Ring
This ring by Brooklyn and Lima – a Peru based earth-friendly company – uses the intricate patterns of the bark from the Tagua seed as a design element. Each ring has a unique shape making each of them one of a kind.
$25, Mujus 

Pendleton Portland Collection Shorts
These hot, little shorts from Pendleton’s Portland Collection will look great now with tights and by themselves as the weather gets warmer. Details like slanted pockets at the sides, zipper and button closure and belt loops make them even more gorgeous. Made in the USA from 100% virgin wool.
On sale for $89.60, Kaight 

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Liven up your monochromatic winter wardrobe with pops of mustard yellow.

Even though bright yellow seems to work best in summer, you can still sport some sunny color right now, if you just tone down the saturation a bit. Mustard-yellow hues happen to work very well with grays and blacks, which is good news for those of us who tend to buy our winter staples in dark monochromatic colors.

Stewart + Brown Knit Panel Zip Pant
These edgy pants are a take on the classic moto riding pant, but with Stewart+Brown’s signature feminine touch. They’ll become a wardrobe staple because they will go so well with all those neutrals you already have. I love the silver hardware and french terry-detail on the inside pant legs. Made in the USA from 100% organic cotton polished twill.
On sale for $122, Stewart + Brown

Envelope Cosmetic Bag by Apple & Bee
This charming envelope make-up bag by Australian company Apple & Bee is designed to fit in all your essentials and can also double as a cute mini-clutch. The outside is made from organic cotton and the inside is lined with hemp. Available in two additional patterns.
$28, Olivine

Amber Recycled Glass Earrings
These earrings are made from recycled glass bottles, individually selected and hand-cut into this circular design. Designed by Kathleen Plate from Atlanta, Georgiia, each one is hand-crafted and one-of-a-kind, which means they will vary slightly in size and shape.
$42, Jute & Jackfruit

Mischa Lampert Nolita Wool Hat
A great hat can work wonders for any outfit. Mischa Lampert‘s hand-knit wool hats are unique, stunning and warm. They’re made from organic merino wool that is naturally dyed and spun by hand in Lambert’s NYC studio (meaning she doesn’t use any electricity). Availability of styles vary.
$93.73 – $131.50, Kaight

Rickshaw Musette Bag
This medium-sized tote bag is made to fit your most important items, like a note book, newspaper, magazine and iPad. It is printed, cut and sewn in San Francisco, featuring made-in-USA fabric — Rickshaw’s signature Performance Tweed fabric made from recycled PET (plastic bottles).
$15, Rickshaw Bagworks

Julie Park Dolman T Dress & Yestadt Millinery Hat
This comfy, casual dress by Julie Park is made from tissue-weight Organic cotton grown in Australia. The diagonal seam along the front and the somewhat shorter back give a great textured, layered effect. It’s the perfect complement to this lemon-colored hat, handmade in NYC by Yestadt Millinery, using traditional, old-world millinery techniques. A high-quality hat like this is sure to last a lifetime.
Dress, on sale for $80 & hat, on sale for $190, both from Beklina.

El Naturalista Taiga Boot
These boots from Spanish shoe label El Naturalista are a freakish hybrid of styles that somehow just works. The lace-up detail on the bottom adds interest and ensures that they work with any kind of pants or skirts. The delicious mustardy hue is called “Leaves Mostaza,” which only makes me want them more.
On sale for approx. $238, El Naturalista

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