EcoSalon caught up with fashion designer Tara St. James of Study NY on her latest socially conscious collaboration with prison women in Mexico, ethical fashion and what made in NYC really means.

Juliette Donatelli: Your newest work involves a collaboration with a women’s prison in Mexico. How are you working together and how did the partnership evolve?

Tara St. James: On a recent trip to Oaxaca I discovered a shoe line that I really loved called Taller Nu. I got along very well with the designers, they invited me to their workshop in Mexico City, so we decided to do a collaboration together. They work with a women’s prison group. They train them to do cross-stitch on leather, and they use that cross-stitch for their shoes. What I did was send them an image of one of the sweater knits that I am doing from Peru, and I asked them to reinterpret that knit pattern into a cross-stitch. So they did the interpretation themselves, I approved it and we designed the shoes and the bag together. That will be for late summer, fall delivery because of the lead time. I will be working directly with the designers and the collaboration co-op.

JD: The cross-stitch is done in Mexico. Are the shoes also made in Mexico?

TSJ: Yeah, everything is done in Mexico. They source the leather there, it is all domestic leather. They have it perforated so the cross-stitch can be done more easily. They bring just the panels to the prison and give them the instruction.

What is really kind of interesting that I love about it, is that if you look inside the panels each one has a different finishing on the inside. You can tell it is done by different women, and it’s just the way they interpret it. So on the outside they are all uniform, but on the inside they all have this signature.  I love that. And I love that you can see that.

And the only other thing I am importing are these alpaca knits from Peru. I have been working with this women-run co-op there for about a year now and this is the first development that we have done together.

And then the rest of the collection is made here in NYC.

The other thing that I am launching for this year, which will be early than fall, it will be a spring launch, is the open back shirt dress style that I always do. But instead of one piece, I am doing it as a piece that can be worn different ways, and convertible. So you can mix and match the fabric and remove certain panels or add on other panels.

JD: What about made in NYC? Is that a selling point for your brand?

TSJ: As far as wholesale buyers are concerned, I find the reaction not super encouraging. They are not all that inspired by it, although I think they like having the story to tell to their customers. Because I do see the reaction, you know when we had this space [Market 605] as a retail space, people coming in, whether they were tourists or New Yorkers, loved the fact that everything was made here. And so I think having that story associated with the brand, or even part of the brand, is important for the buyers, not for themselves necessarily, although some of them really care, but they like to communicate that to their customers.

I am not sure a lot of people are seeking it out yet, but they are definitely interested in it.

I have always felt the same way about the sustainability of the brand: I don’t think people really care about organic cotton, as long as it felt good and could be worn easily and washed easily and cared for easily. So it was really my responsibility to make it sustainable, but also my responsibility to make the design last long and be a quality good. And part of that is making it here in New York, I think the workmanship here is just good. I am lucky, I have a great factory that I work with and they do a really great job. I am not going to lie, I have had great factories in China too that do a really really great job but if I can get that quality and workmanship here then why shouldn’t I?

Want more interviews? See also:

Hannah Jones, Nike VP of Sustainable Business: Behind-The-Scenes Interview (Part 1)

Interview: Nike’s VP of Sustainable Business Hannah Jones (Part 2)

Interview: Author Kate Fletcher On New Fashion & Sustainability Book

Author Interview: Elizabeth Cline of Overdressed The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion

images: Study NY

The post Tara St. James of Study NY on Prison Collaborations, Being Made in NYC and the Beauty of a Simple Cross-Stitch appeared first on EcoSalon.

7 successful fashion talents we’ll have our eye on this year.

As the ever-wise Alexander McQueen once said, “It’s a new era in fashion – there are no rules. It’s all about the individual and personal style, wearing high-end, low-end, classic labels, and up-and-coming designers all together.” An innovative program launched by the New York City Economic Development Corporation and the Fashion Institute of Technology seems to be embracing this new era McQueen spoke of.

The executive level program – Design Entrepreneurs NYC – will give participants access to high-level industry execs and provide them with a means to further their skills to run a successful fashion or accessories label. Of 165 applicants, 35 emerging designers were hand-picked to join to the Class of 2012. EcoSalon caught up with 7 of the stellar selected designers to hear what’s getting them excited about being a part of this fashion-forward program.

Tara St. James of STUDY NY

“What I’m looking forward to most in participating in this program is that it will force me to sit down and really focus on and plan the future of my business. That’s a luxury I haven’t had until now. I also think it will be great for networking with peers and potential mentors.”

Nimet Degirmencioglu of SOHAM DAVE
“We are looking forward to meeting all other talented designers and very knowledgable advisors. We are hoping that through the program we would be able to reach the investors and capital to carry our brand to the next level. Our artisans and our supply chain in India is ready to produce for department stores and we would like to grow the business.”

Anne Pachan of CALA OSSIDIANA

“I am really excited to participate in this program and take my business to the next level. Having a company that creates high-fashion swimwear with eco-friendly fabrics – and being able to do all of that within NYC – is what gets me up in the morning. I love the mini-MBA style of the program and how focused it is – with sections on marketing and sales, legal questions for startups, and the financial aspects of running a small business. The other really fantastic part is the group of people participating. I have taken a few business and entrepreneurship courses previously, but never with such a strong group of designers as my peers and classmates – we are all at similar levels, ready to take that next step to success, and will be able to support each other and grow together.”

Sarah Canner of VESPERTINE
“I’m most excited for the opportunity to learn from some of the industry’s top teachers and executives and to be able to directly apply the knowledge and experiences they share into my business plan revision and the day-to-day building of Vespertine.”

Thea Grant of BAZZdeGRANT 
“This program will allow us access to experts and teachers of critical areas of our industry that are often overlooked or forgotten over time by so many talented designers…in so-saying, I am most excited to refocus the passion my partner and I have for our work through the lens of a business professional.”

Graciela Fuentes of TIRANA JEWELRY

“I’m a creative type so my dream was to be a designer, not neccesarily a business owner. Over the years I’ve been honing my design skills, but I’ve come to realize that the key to achieve success is the proper balance between design talent and business acumen. I believe DENYC will provide me with essential skills to further develop my brand so I’m ecstatic to be a part of the 2012 class.”

Anjelika Krishna of A.D.O.
“I truly appreciate the opportunity to participate in the Design Entrepreneurs NYC program, and am most excited to meet the mentors and learn from them on how to successfully grow my sustainable business, A.D.O. I am also excited to meet other entrepreneurs and possibly start some collaborative projects.”

A big congratulations to all selected emerging designers. We’re holding onto our hats in anticipation to see what the future holds for all of them…

The post Design Entrepreneurs NYC Announces the (Sustainable) Fashion Class of 2012 appeared first on EcoSalon.

Column10 finalists compete to have their design produced in The IOU Project’s “Made in NYC” Capsule Collection.

The DIY with IOU Sustainable Design Competition recently announced their 10 finalists in the race to have their fashionable creation produced as part of The IOU Project‘s inaugural “Made in NYC” Capsule Collection. Known for their transparent approach about their supply chain, The IOU Project’s products are traceable so purchasers of their fashionable frocks can find out how their garment was produced, where it was made, and who was part of the creation process. Organized in collaboration with Source4Style, the finalists are now in pattern+sample mode, constructing their final entries, which can be either a garment or accessory. For a look at the varying aesthetics these designers harbor, a look from each finalist is showcased below.

Tara St. James

Swati Argade

Lara Miller

Emily Saunders

Minna K

Lisa Linhardt

Francisca Pineda 

Marina Davis

Carrie Parry

Aga Smiechowska

Get Your Madras On

With a variation of The IOU Project‘s statement handwoven madras fabric in hand, each innovative and mindful designer is currently in their zone, on their way to present the final pieces by the end of the month. The fashion designer behind The IOU Project, Kavita Parmar, began the story’s label with handwoven madras fabric from Chennai (which was previously known as Madras). According to Source4Style’s Summer Rayne Oakes, “Kavita met with each and every artisan that The IOU Project currently works with to understand their needs – and to share in the beauty of their craft. The iconic material has such a rich history and an incredibly powerful story; it’s meaningful to share in that with other designers.”

Entrant Jessica Hosoi’s sketches; Oakes tells EcoSalon, “I enjoyed the designers who took the time to submit sketches of products… it showed that they put in thought and effort.”

The IOU Project’s madras will be available on the Source4Style platform after the winner is announced, so any designer will have the option to join in the checked fun. The winning design will be selected on March 29th, and not only will be produced as part of The IOU Project’s “Made in NYC” Capsule Collection, but the standout designer will receive 50% of the profits and have the chance to showcase their piece at a trunk show at ABC Carpet & Home, and sell it on www.TheIOUProject.com and Fab.com.

For Oakes, this competition is all about portraying to the inner and outer sustainable design community that, “there is much joy and reward that comes in valuing the process of making a garment as well as the people along the way.”

The post 10 Finalists Are Off & Designing For The DIY With IOU Competition appeared first on EcoSalon.

Zero waste fashion designers step up the aesthetics to be more pleasing for the masses.

Zero Waste Pattern Design seems at first glance to deal unashamedly with only the front end of the fashion cycle, with the theory going that if the designer agonizes over eliminating waste then consumers only need worry about what to do with the garments when they don’t want them any more. But it is much more than just a matter of asking “Have I used ALL of that piece of cloth?” as doing only this would potentially result in garments that no one would want to purchase.

With zero waste pattern design, and indeed all sustainable fashion, aesthetics cannot be at the expense of the environment, just as much as the environment cannot be at the expense of aesthetics. There must exist a harmony between both, and thankfully many sustainable designers have found it.

It is a strange thing however, that many of the worlds zero waste designers come from two such apparently different parts of the world, New York or Australasia. Australiasian designers who explore these ideas include Material By Product, Mark Liu, Timo Rissanen and Julia Lumsden. There are a number of New York based designers who use zero waste fashion design philosophies in their work, notably the iconic Yeohlee Teng.

I spoke to last year and this year’s Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winners Tara St James and Titania Inglis this past week, fresh out of their New York Fashion Week shows. Here’s what they had to say.

Mark Liu

What is your sustainable fashion philosophy and how were you motivated to take your work in this direction?

Titania Inglis: My philosophy came from my mother, who taught me from a young age that it was better to buy a few beautiful pieces of clothing than lots and lots of not-so-great clothes. With the end goal of a small wardrobe in mind, I try to make clothes that are versatile and can often be worn in multiple ways; that feature high-quality, long-lasting fabrics and finishing; and that are both of the moment and yet well-proportioned and classic enough to wear for years to come.

Tara St James: To date I haven’t focused on one single sustainability philosophy, instead I try to examine several aspects of ethical design to evaluate which are a good fit for my brand and which are not.  For example my very first collection, entitled The Square Project, was a study in zero waste pattermaking, while of course using all overstock or sustainable textiles, and to this day I still implement a lot of zero waste in my designs.  I also work very closely with artisan weavers and knitters through Source4Style and other outlets. And I produce about 90% of my garments in New York City.

Ironically I was steered towards sustainability in 2004 when I started my previous brand Covet and was sourcing new textiles in China where I found a bamboo jersey I loved. I say ironically because I no longer work with either bamboo or China, but it opened my eyes to the concept of ethical sourcing, and that’s when I started researching different textiles and production methods. There has been tremendous change since then, I’ll say that.

Titania Inglis, Spring 12

How do you incorporate this waste reduction/elimination philosophy into your design and/or production processes?

Titania Inglis: Again, I believe strongly that classic, beautifully made clothes are the best antidote to waste. That said, with an eye to cradle-to-grave sustainability, I recycle all of my fabric scraps and try whenever possible to cut smaller pieces from existing scraps; try to choose 100% cotton and 100% wool fabrics that are easily recycled; and recommend on the care labels that garments be aired out often and washed less, both to save on water and to ensure that they last longer.

As far as zero-waste pattern making goes, my Spring/Summer 2011 collection was based around that technique, and I approached it both through bias cutting and origami folding, creating two origami-pleated bustle skirts and a bias top and dress that were cut from simple shapes that could be interlocked on the marker to eliminate fabric waste. Because there was a tiny bit of fabric that wasn’t used in the pieces, I called it my “Almost Zero” collection. Some of the pieces have since reappeared in successive collections, with the bias T-shirt becoming one of my signature pieces.

Tara St James: I’ve found it much easier to reduce waste on an individual level and less so when larger production quantities come into the picture. If I’m designing, cutting and sewing something myself, I can easily control how the garment is made, but to scale both the design and pattern to include different sizes and fabrications has been a challenge, although not an insurmountable one.

Tara St James, Spring 12

How do your customers respond to your ethical goals and resulting products – how strongly do you market your products as ethical?

Titania Inglis: While I do offer information about my philosophy and production methods on my website, I choose to market the line first and foremost as a fashion line, leaving the ethical standards as an added benefit. Clothing is a unique product in that it’s meant to be worn, so the look of it, the fabric choice, and the fit come first when a woman is shopping. If she loves a piece and will wear it forever, that’s far more environmentally sound than if she buys it for its ethical production methods and then leaves it in the back of her closet because she hates the look.

Tara St James: I don’t actively market my brand as ethical, I want my customers to buy the clothing first because they love it, and they usually only find out the sustainability of the brand after they’ve spoken to the shop owner or done some research on the brand.  However there is a rising population of shoppers who seek out ethical fashion and want to support local designers. With them I’m happy to be as open sourced and transparent as possible. After all, the story behind the clothing is my means of creating a dialogue with my customer. I don’t want that dialogue to end when they’ve made their purchase.

How do you see yourself improving on your current practices – what’s in the future for your company?

Titania Inglis: The biggest challenge is always fabric sourcing. I’m constantly on the lookout for beautiful new organic or sustainably produced fabrics; I’ve traveled to London and Tokyo for sourcing, and found amazing materials there. This season I sourced a gorgeous vegetable-tanned leather from France, and I’m dying to make handbags or shoes from it as soon as I find the right collaborator.

Tara St James: I would like to start researching more technical and recycled synthetic textiles. I love using natural fibres such as hand woven cottons, wools and silks, but when I examine the water consumption for some of these fibres, it’s difficult to ignore the reality and is pushing me towards longer lasting, more versatile textiles such as recycled polyester, which can also be printed by companies like AirDye, who I worked with on my Spring 12 collection.

The post Zero Waste Fashion Touts an Overabundance of Style appeared first on EcoSalon.

The GreenShows snag a coveted spot at Lincoln Center.

Too often, sustainable fashion is relegated to the sidelines of events like Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. This season, however, that changed with the addition of The GreenShows to the official line-up at Lincoln Center.

Held Friday morning at Lincoln Center’s The Box, the presentation featured carefully curated ensembles from eight sustainable brands, assembled by star stylist Julie Ragolia. In selecting the participating designers, TGS considered a number of ethical manufacturing criteria, including use of organic/bio-based textiles and materials, recycled/upcycled fabrics, low-impact dyes, zero waste/fabric waste reduction, local production, craft/artisan production, and fair/ethical trade.

The Box was packed shoulder-to-shoulder for the event, which GreenShows director Lou Sagar called a “milestone” in the sustainable fashion movement.

Sustainable fashion is now a global movement, it’s no longer a trend. (The GreenShows) are a demonstration that fashion always has to be beautiful and appealing, but it doesn’t have to be at the compromise of using sustainable materials and ethical practices. I think the fashion industry is demonstrating a desire to embrace that more and more. We don’t have to feel that we’re alternative because social change is mainstream.

Here, scenes from the show and more information on the featured designers.

The entrance to The GreenShows.

The Lincoln Center lobby, hub of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Venezuelan designer Luis Valenzuela collaborated with Lulan Artisans on this gorgeous hourglass dress, made from raw Cambodian silk, hand-woven and hand-dyed by women artisans. Eve Blossom, founder of Lulan Artisans, told EcoSalon, “By working with these artisans, we prevent them from falling into human trafficking, because we give them job security and options, which prevents them from getting into desperate situations. And these artisans are very proud and incredible masters. All you need to do is help them, highlight them, and create partnerships, and it makes all the difference in the world.”

The model in the background wears a silver, organic cotton jersey gown made from metallic thread.

United Bamboo is a fashion collective from collaborators Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham, focused on the reinvention of tradition and committed to local production. For The GreenShows, they used a traditional plaid on dresses, skirts, and bomber jackets.

Bamboo By United Bamboo is a line of organic “room wear” inspired by the birth of Aoki’s first child. In the foreground, the model wears a black organic wool hooded sweater and white organic cotton romper; just behind there’s a black linen pinafore dress layered over an organic cotton fitted shirt; and in the back there’s a cropped jacket, striped organic knit sweater, and cropped pant.

For STUDY NY‘s fall line, designer Tara St. James‘ focus was on convertability. “Everything can be personalized and is meant to be worn your own way. I think that’s an important part of sustainability. Fast fashion is so recognizable on the street, and you don’t want to be wearing what everyone else is. Even if you’re wearing the same piece it can look very different.”

This olive tweed, 100 percent wool convertible jacket is layered over an olive tweed skirt.

Ajna, from designer Beryl Man, embraces beauty and simplicity while exclusively utilizing organic and sustainable textiles. The knits in the show were fabulously cozy and perfectly paired with the models’ rosy cheeks and fifties-style coiffes. Here, a multicolor organic wool hand-knit turtleneck over a sage organic wool draped skirt.

Using primarily upcycled materials, Brooklyn-based Artists & Revolutionaries put together a stunning collection of pieces using repurposed leather, cashmere, and organic cotton. From left to right: a camel washed wool jacket with repurposed leather sleeve and trim, with black washed wool pant; a white/black spliced repurposed washed wool sweater with black repurposed leather short; and a floral organic dip-dyed ruffle top with check washed wool flip skirt.

Ensembles from The Battalion were sleek, slim, and simple, incorporating materials like bamboo, organic cotton, faux fur, and peace silk. I loved this black modal, spandex zip jacket, paired with a black organic bamboo legging.

The distinctive textiles present in H. Fredriksson pieces are inspired by designer Helena Fredriksson’s own drawings and photographs. The model in the front is wearing an olive 100 percent reclaimed wool batwing coat over a printed silk crepe Stina dress, while the model in the back sports a blue 100 percent silk Milos dress.

Images: Jessica Marati and Jennifer Barckley

The post EcoSalon at NYFW: The GreenShows appeared first on EcoSalon.

From a wasteful fashion industry emerges the Zero Waste movement.

It is said that the next great war will not be over oil, but water. So when it takes 1,800 gallons of water to grow enough cotton to produce a single pair of jeans, it is extraordinary that cloth has become a readily disposable commodity of little value. Indicative of this is the fact that on average 15 – 20% of cloth needed to produce a garment is wasted and the useless remnants are destined for the incinerator, landfill or occasionally as mattress filler.

In 2008 China, one of the world’s largest exporters of textiles and clothing produced 31.8 billion meters of fabric in January to July alone. You could reasonably estimate that almost 5 billion meters of that fabric was wasted. This astonishing wastefulness is caused by the entrenched traditions of the fashion industry, which separate the stages of garment design and production into hierarchies where the designers often work isolated from production. It is a system that fails to acknowledge that textiles are a finished product with energy invested into their design and manufacture and which seems primarily interested in the next new thing, forgetting also about what happens to garments at the end of their fashionable lives. So what’s being done about it?

Zero Waste cutting

Over the last couple of years I have had the privilege of working with Parsons Assistant Professor Timo Rissanen to bring together the work of 12 designers from all over the world in a zero waste fashion exhibition called Yield: Making Fashion Without Making Waste. All of these designers engage in some way with what has come to be known as Zero Waste Fashion Design (ZWFD). ZWFD involves designing clothing that in some way eliminates waste from the production or consumption of clothing.

This can be achieved in a number of ways and through various approaches; some designers use the left over fabric pieces to make other garments or products; others eliminate the creation of waste altogether when designing their patterns. Many designers use second hand clothing in order to remove waste from the post consumer end of the fashion consumption cycle, while others use innovative technology to make garments in completely new ways. All are in some way are addressing the huge volumes of textile waste contributed by the fashion and textile industry and consumers every year – a massive 30kg per person per year in UK and U.S.

Piles of second hand clothes for sale

Designing Out the Waste
Anybody who has cut out and sewn up a garment will be aware of the pieces between the pattern that are not incorporated into the finished garment. Many people save such offcuts for future projects, but there will typically be pieces that are either too small or oddly shaped to be of any use. These are routinely discarded, passing through the trash, en route to the landfill. In industry, markers are designed to eliminate as much of this wastage as possible in order to save money. However, the design of the garments is dictated by aesthetics and market alone, inevitably resulting in surplus pieces that cannot be used. The company can either creatively use this left over 15% to make different products, or by designing both the positive and negative spaces of the pattern it is possible to reduce this figure to zero. ZWFD aims to tick all the boxes of aesthetics, fit, market and zero waste.

The kimono as a historic example of Zero Waste cutting

These approaches, while sometimes appearing new, are in fact as old as clothing itself. For hundreds of years, aesthetics, and to a lesser extent functionality, have been the two pillars of fashion design, and when coupled with the slightly more contemporary desire for speed and change, has lead to the proliferation of too much fashion, too many collections, too often. Historically fashion was expensive because cloth was expensive and time consuming to produce. This meant it made sense to be careful about how you used the cloth you had and how you cared for the clothing you owned. Mending was common and using cloth frugally was standard practice – there are examples of “zero waste garments” from almost every continent and culture, and we’ve been practicing it for centuries.

Admittedly designing ZWF isn’t the easiest when first starting out. This type of design is not about numbers, it’s about experimentation, playfulness and taking a risk, all while being mindful of the impact of your actions. It slows the design of fashion down and forces many parts of the fashion chain to think about waste and material use from a design and production perspective. Many of the problems that exist in the fashion industry begin with ideas of separation, both geographical and hierarchical. Whether designer/producer, producer/consumer, consumption and disposal, the greater the distance and separation between the stakeholders in the fashion chain, the greater the likelihood of discordance and a lack of appreciation of what is really going on.

Holly McQuillan’s own Zero Waste Designs

Designing ZWF needs to be done with either a close relationship between designer and pattern cutter, or by a designer who is the pattern cutter, any other arrangement will be an exercise in futility. The change enables a close relationship between market, aesthetic and fabric yield to flourish, and from this, beautiful things are possible.

A designer attempting a zero waste garment design cannot simply ask, “have I used ALL of that piece of cloth?”

Doing only this would potentially result in garments that no one would want to purchase. So with ZWFD and indeed all sustainable design, aesthetics cannot be at the expense of the environment, just as the environment cannot be at the expense of aesthetics. There must exist a harmony between both.

Writer Holly McQuillan, is the Yield exhibit’s curator, and is also a designer and lecturer in the fashion design program at Massey University’s College of Creative Arts in Wellington, New Zealand.

Top image: McQuillan’s Yield Exhibit in Chicago

The post Zero Waste Fashion and the Next Great War appeared first on EcoSalon.

EcoSalon’s top 20 favorite sustainable fashion sites from around the globe.

They help us find out about new designers, industry news, trends, learn what sustainable fashion means, and discover all the swanky events we can attend on a global level – these are our eco fashion writers and designers, our go-to girls reporting all the news fit to print, from the exciting and beautiful to the all-too-often tragic and wasteful designer landscape. These are the pioneers of a new type of fashion that explores, connects and draws us in to what the industry could be if we simply supported it more.

We’d like to throw our own hat into this ring, as well- but then, you’re already here reading us, aren’t you?

Past Fashion Future

Past Fashion Future founder Emma Grady says: “I founded Past Fashion Future one year ago as a platform to explore my personal style aesthetic and to show the beauty of timeless and classic fashion and style. I love hearing people’s personal style stories, specifically about their sentimental connection to the clothing that they wear.”

We love the site layout, sharp, stylish images and especially, Something Old, Something New, a series that reveals how modern day style mavens wear heirlooms, vintage, and ethical fashion.

Vogue’s Green Style blog

Come on, It’s Vogue, it’s Livia Firth, it’s eco fashion and it’s high style – do we need to say any more about it?

Ecco eco

BurdaStyle

BurdaStyle, is an online social community that uses the web to bring the craft of sewing to a new generation of designers, hobbyists, DIYers and anyone looking to sew. What could be more sustainable than making clothes yourself? Sewers flock here to mingle, share and support over projects, patterns and full galleries of completed designs.

Join their community to keep current with what other budding (and seasoned) designers are doing. We most certainly do.

Six Magazine

SIX says it was founded with one aim, “to celebrate the designers, individuals, independent brands and companies who are creating a more ethical and sustainable future for the fashion industry.”
We love how the site incorporates beauty products as well as high fashion and packages it so beautifully we want to read every article.
We also love that SIX represents the sixth sense we all have when it comes to style and value.

Clever.

4 Equal Sides

Tara St James, founder of Study NY and 4 Equal Sides believes that “open source material plays a strong role in the development of the sustainable design community,” making her the rare designer that has vision enough to see how the sustainable designer’s new model needs to play out. Under her guidance, Study’s interns have developed, produced and continue to sell their own sustainable mini collections. St James is very open about her production and design process and documents her own story as a designer in a visually as well as editorially personal way that makes you come back for more.

Fashion Me Green

FashionMeGreen is a sustainable fashion awareness project and style site. Founder Greta Eagan says it’s “Conscious coolhunting from around the globe,” and we are in total agreement.

All the curated product pulls, designer features, amazing photo editorials and fashion trend pieces give us extreme hope for the future of ethical fashion that it can in fact be stylish enough to become mainstream without anyone even noticing.

Closette

Yuka Yoneda, founder of Closette and Ecouterre’s Senior Editor calls herself a shopaholic.

“Well, I was a shopaholic. I was always a jeans and sweatshirt kinda girl, but when I graduated from college and got a job in the city, I went a leeeetle crazy with the shopping – okay, a lot crazy. Then I learned about where the clothes I was buying came from and how they were affecting and hurting other people, particularly women and children, around the globe. The idea that these crimes against women, pollution and chemicals going into our water and bodies, and just shear waste were all happening because I wanted a new top or jeans really made me feel ashamed. I knew I had to make a difference in my own life, so I started thrift shopping, supporting sustainable designers and making my own clothes and I feel wonderful knowing that the garments I wear don’t contribute to anyone else being hurt (except maybe for the people who have to look at my crazy outfits).”

Check out Closette for some fun DIY ideas, shop vintage and secondhand clothing or try winning one of her fun giveaways.

Goodlifer

Founded by Publisher and Editor-in-Chief Johanna Björk, Goodlifer is all about style and the good life. “With your help, we’re writing a guidebook for a new generation of Goodlifers. We want you to share in and help craft a positive, enthusiastic vision of a future that is both sustainable and achievable. Through first-hand, personal journalism and thoughtful exploration and discussion we’re here to consider daily choices, reconsider assumptions, pose questions, uncover opportunities, make you think and collaborate with us on what it means to be a Goodlifer.”

Sign us on Johanna.

We’ve been following Timo Rissanen since we came across him in this New York Times article and were more than elated to finally meet him recently at the Yield exhibit in Brooklyn. Timo says on his site: “I’m investigating fashion creation without fabric waste creation through design practice.”

We are fascinated by his finds.

EFW

EcoFashionWorld says they aim to inspire with new ideas, ideals and information. “Our goal is to keep you green, gorgeous and growing with a comprehensive guide to finding sustainable designer brands and online eco fashion stores.” For those new to the game and fumbling over the words like Peace Silk or tencel, check out their glossary for the latest terminology definitions.

Ethical Fashion Forum

The Ethical Fashion Forum is a non-profit organization, that makes life just a little more easy “for fashion professionals to integrate sustainability at the heart of what they do.”
Membership to the EFF delivers support for sustainable fashion businesses through three programs with each program including several essential tools which members can take advantage of to succeed in ethical fashion business.

Members can also stay current with events, sourcing and EFF socials.

Ecouterre

The fashion daughter of Inhabitat, Ecouterre is a heavily photo-curated website devoted to the future of sustainable fashion design. “We’re dedicated to showcasing and supporting designers who not only contemplate cut, form, and drape, but also a garment’s social and environmental impact, from the cultivation of its fibers to its use and disposal. Our ethos: To follow the evolution of the apparel industry toward a more environmentally sound future, as well as facilitate a conversation about why sustainable fashion matters.”

Treehugger

What came first, eco blogging or Treehugger? I think many of us were reading Treehugger when eco fashion was just beginning to evolve past the point of crunchy. Still on track to provide us with timely fashion news, we’ve bookmarked the site and will continue to go back.

Eco Chick

Eco-Chick editor Starre Vartan, consultant and author of The Eco-Chick’s Guide to Life, says the main intention of her site is to “inspire readers toward a healthier, more sustainable life (which we think means a happier life too). That includes slowing down, unplugging, getting out, going in, making mistakes and moving on, being choosy, doing research, and growing every day. Rest and relaxation are real and important, and so is time with friends and family. We love local food, farmer’s markets, independent designers, handmade everything, and connecting with where our stuff comes from and who makes it. We especially love inspiring women who keep us on our toes and asking questions.”

Her site covers all aspects of the fashion industry and Starre is a known girl about town on the streets of New York City when it comes to getting the scoop on eco-fashion. If you’re where she is, you’re in the right place.

Magnifeco

Magnifeco is an eco-fashion blog currently based in Tokyo by founder Kate Black and features fair-trade, sustainable, organic, recycled, vintage and vegan brands in a place where ethics meet aesthetics. From earth friendly fabrics, to sustainable manufacturing processes and fairtrade practices, the site features conscious designers and products for the conscious consumer.

Market Publique

Market Publique is an eclectic marketplace dedicated to vintage fashion “committed to bringing the community together so we can all have a place to buy, sell and discuss vintage in a positive and focused environment.”
The Brooklyn based company started when the founders realized there was a lack of options for quality vintage sellers online.

We are obsessed with how great the styling is and are always inspired to grab a piece to add to our own wardrobes or to simply wear clothes differently after we leave the site.

Holly McQuillan

Holy McQuillan, Yield Curator, designer and lecturer in the fashion design program at Massey University’s College of Creative Arts in Wellington, New Zealand says since completing her Masters of Design, which explored the presentation of cultural memory through garment design, her work has focused on exploring the possibilities that arise when garment design is restrained by one goal – zero-waste.

Peruse her site or get in touch with her with some of your own zero waste design questions. She will get you rethinking fashion for sure.

Organic Girly

Organic Girly founder Jennifer Barckley is not only one of the nicest people we’ve ever met, she’s also a fantastic resource. Utilize her “Ask me anything,” button and she will get back to you quickly. Check her site for periodic updates on vegan and sustainable fashion forays that sometimes even lead her to chicken sitting.

Social Alterations

Mary Hanlon’s Social Alterations was “developed with fashion and textile design educators in mind, it also acts to create a platform for design educators to benchmark themselves against other educators not only within their own field, but across various design disciplines. In order to create real lasting change, designers of all disciplines must work together to foster transformation.”

A wonderful venue for timely fashion news regarding everything from Fast Fashion to CSR.

Image: Shandi-lee

The post From Eco to Vintage to DIY, 20 Fashion Sites We Can’t Live Without appeared first on EcoSalon.

Tara St James and Bahar Shahpar want to take their role as designers and entrepreneurs to a new role, that of teachers.

How we evolve as professionals could quite easily make up a juicy short story, or in some cases, a stylish novel that would take us around the world. In the case of designers Tara St James (of Study New York) and Bahar Shahpar (designer for her own eponymous label), this writer would probably opt for the novel version having followed both for some time.

The two are currently in the throes of an IndieGoGo campaign for funds they hope to elevate GUILDED, their newest enterprise, where the master plan is to become “the new industry standard for the way we think about design.”

Sustainably fashioned design.

I got to catch up with them at GUILDED this past week to see what was going on and what all the fuss was about.

“With fashion, designers need to start attacking waste from the beginning and use good design and business to make better production. they also need to take a look at the people they work with full time,” says St James, referring to the unseen co-workers in the manufacturing process who help produce a collection.

Right now GUILDED offers one to two classes a week that tackle many of the questions designers and companies new to the sustainable scene have. In their 101 Series: Sustainable Design Fundamentals including (but not limited to), Fibers & Fabric: An Analytical Comparison, Local Production: Building Efficient Supply Chains and Brand Positioning: Telling the Story of Sustainability, many of these questions are answered.

While they currently hold the classes in GUILDED proper, the two hope the IndieGoGo funding, will enable them to offer more classes digitally so it’s less of a priority to offer a physical space to teach in and they can reach out to people all over the world.

Check out their video on IndieGoGo explaining more abut what they’re hoping to accomplish with proper funding:

Shahpar says what she hopes GUILDED  will become is a place where people can come to understand about how they can create with a conscious.

“Fashion has a direct impact on a lot of things, so we want students to see what knowledge can do and give them the power to do it themselves and not rely on corporate, that there are people like us working behind the scenes everywhere, working from the root of the system,” she says.

St James agrees and adds that there’s a preconceived perception when designers are entering the eco-realm that they need to address everything when they first start out.

“There’s a lot of confusion with design students and lots of sources being thrown at them and in that confusion is where they stop and don’t want to go any further. Here they can choose what’s right for them and we help give them the tools to go from there. We debunk the myth that it can’t be done,” St James says, adding that the label of “sustainability” also can be a crutch they lean on too heavily, while it should be an element of their design.

GUILDED’s Work space in Manhattan.

Shahpar and St James are passionate about what they do. You can hear it in their voices and the pace at which they speak.  You realize by being there with them that this campaign isn’t just about donating, but supporting a business that is here to make an effective change, “not to just be a charitable cause.”

“Every bit of information you learn about this is life changing,” says Shahpar, “For everyone.”

To update, the goal is to raise $15,000 via IndieGoGo by August 6th to get everything off the ground. You can start by donating as little as $10, everything makes a difference and they’re a little more than halfway there so get on it. An Exclusive for EcoSalon readers who donate to GUILDED’S  campaign is one of Study New York’s Zipper Cuffs. Be one of the first 10 people to give and mention in their comment that they read the EcoSalon piece and get this hot zipper cuff in addition to whatever incentive is being offered for the amount you donate!!

The post GUILDED’s Go Go Girls appeared first on EcoSalon.

Fair trade fashion that sets new standards for sustainable style and joy.

Spring/Summer 2011 appears to be a bold and beautiful season for celebrating fair trade fashion’s undeniable momentum, and yet another bright young star has been added to the growing list of change makers in the fair trade design sphere. Meghan Sebold, the principal designer for Afia collection, will debut her new Summer 2011 collection at Guilded’s “Beautiful Future” Sustainable Fashion Pop-Up in NYC on May 5th. Created out of traditional West African textiles by pattern makers in Chicago and NYC in partnership with the fair trade Dzidefo Women’s Cooperative in the village of Kpando, Ghana, Afia’s new capsule collection is a perfect example of  why textiles that demonstrate the genius of place are totally universal wherever you may roam.

Bold traditional textiles from Ghana inspire Afia’s ‘sheath chic’ style

Fair trade sewing production by the Dzidefo Women’s Cooperative, Ghana

All of Afia’s stunningly bold fabrics are sourced from small vendors in Ghana, and as part of urban indigenous chic and sustainable production storytelling, create a bridge to “history, proverbs, moral values, and social codes,” with their classicly traditional, though contemporary, motifs.

In a recent interview with EcoSalon, designer Meghan Sebold shared these inspiring thoughts:

“My role (as a designer), is to translate traditional prints from a region of the spirited and often misconceived African continent into styles that resonate with American pop culture. The Ghanaian fabric makes my job as a designer easy: I choose simple, sheath patterns to pay respect to the animated colors and prints.”

Afia’s designs look incredibly gorgeous on model Fardosa Mohamed, and with the accessorizing of J.M.V. Jewelry and Liten Blomma by Jessica, urban style is fresh again.

Meghan also shared that she was understandably drawn to Ghana as a student in 2006 for the possibilities to do both textile and economic research in a country with a long legacy of textile production.

“I met with people on every level and in every facet of the industry, and despite the artistry, ambition, and business aptitude, there was a struggle to expand their business models beyond the local market. Five years later, I have created Afia to help bridge their craft for our consumer market.  We use fashion as a tool to involve people in social progress in a light-hearted, accessible way.”

The debut of Afia at Guilded in NYC, seems supremely fitting as this hot new agency, created by sustainable style pioneer Bahar Shahpar and award-winning fashion designer Tara St. James of Study NY, is all about providing opportunities where “Artists access information and industry perfects its craft.”

With Guilded’s mantra of, “We define WHAT sustainability is, we teach WHY sustainability is important, and we show HOW to achieve sustainability in practical ways,” there is no doubt that designers and fashion lovers will be making their way to their downtown headquarters for some genuine insight on fashioning the vibrant future with both a local and global twist.

For more information on the upcoming May 5th event, and a line up of other designers who will be participating, visit Guilded’s event page.

Images courtesy of Afia:Design: Meghan Sebold; Photography: James de Leon; Model: Fardosa Mohamed; Editing: Evan Felts; Styling: Julianna Vezzetti; Assisting: Elizabeth Cloyd and Jackson Tonti; Jewelry: Liten Blomma by Jessica and J.M.V.

The post Afia Fair Trade Collection to Debut at Guilded in NYC appeared first on EcoSalon.

The GreenShows collaborates with Bloomingdale’s for an Earth Day eco-designer pop-up shop.

Spring is in the air and so are collaborations. An event featuring a union of cloth and retail is taking place Wednesday, April 20th-Saturday, April 23rd in New York City when The GreenShows joins Bloomingdale’s for an ecolux pop-up shop celebrating Earth Day. Featuring 10 contemporary fashion and accessories designers, this venue is chock-full of well-known names in the fashion industry, including Suzanne Rae, Belinda Pasqua of The Sway, Samantha Pleet, H. Fredriksson and recent Ecco Domani winner, Tara St James.

Belinda Pasqua, founder of The Sway, a handbag line hand crafted from excess leather, is also Creative Director of The GreenShows this September 2011. I asked her how she felt about being part of such a powerful collaboration with one of the most renowned retail venues in the world.

“Bloomingdale’s success rests on the fact that they really do move with the times. I’ve been reading the book Like No Other Store, just to get an insight into the company and why they are considered one of the most profitable and well respected department stores in the world,” says Pasqua. “I feel this ecolux pop-up shop is another example of how they are ahead of the curve and tapping into consumers mindsets.”

With all the sustainable brand power involved in this pop-up, is it important to be part of the sustainable tribe, or is it actually a hindrance?

Pasqua thinks it can only be positive.

“As a designer you are very focused on your own project and product but as a collective you can really see the bigger picture and get inspired to promote the cause and do something bigger than yourself,” she says.

Harvey Russack, CEO of the GreenShows agrees.

“One of the strongest trends in fashion today is the expression of ecological and social awareness in luxury apparel. Our collaboration with Bloomingdale’s represents a milestone event to showcase designers who are responding to these trends with beautiful and appealing collections merchandised to engage, inform and excite the shopper,” says Russack.

One thing that always excites shoppers is the merchandising and for the second year, Bloomingdale’s SOHO and The GreenShows will unveil a ground-level display in three windows including a one-of-a-kind couture gown from designer Luis Valenzuela and selections from each of the designers.

Susan Benarcik, an installation artist and surface designer based in New York City, will be creating mixed media, sculptural installations for the 5th floor pop up space created out of recycled paper, wire hangers, vegetation, and other mixed media.

Mental Notes by Susan Benarcik.

‘Mental Notes‘ will be featured, as well as a customized version of ‘Why Our Hangers’ made from recycled clothing hangers.

To add an educational component to the collaboration, The GreenShows is presenting a slide show courtesy of the Museum at FIT from their acclaimed 2010 exhibition, Eco-Fashion: Going Green.

The post The GreenShows Partners with Bloomingdale’s for Designer Pop-Up appeared first on EcoSalon.