Human trafficking is lurking around every corner. It’s a threat we hear about, but may not always see or experience firsthand. Don’t let the lack of personal impact fool you, however, because the industry is real and it’s frightening–just ask Lia Valerio, co-founder of Malia Designs and creator of Stop Traffick, a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization formed to raise awareness and stop the trafficking of women and children around the world.

After serving in the Peace Corps in the South Pacific Valerio “fell in love with Cambodia,” and says despite the tragedy the country had been faced with, “their warmth and openness was and always has been a source of inspiration.”

Valerio’s initial trip introduced her to the country’s textiles, as well as various fair trade organizations helping denigrated groups earn and retain income. Inspired by what she learned, Valerio teamed up with best friend and former business partner Maria Forres Opdycke to come up with a way to import goods from Cambodia and support the causes of these organizations.

Fuelled by their “love for travel and a desire to create a business that was socially responsible, sustainable, and mission based,” in 2005, with absolutely zero “real fashion experience,” Malia (Lia + Maria) Designs was formed.

Deeply impacted by the human trafficking she witnessed while in Cambodia, eradicating the ravages of this multibillion dollar industry became the heartbeat of their business. “We formed Malia with the belief that one way to counteract this global issue is to increase access to economic opportunity in the most affected areas,” Valerio says. Although Opdycke has moved on from Malia Designs, Valerio credits the current co-owner and marketing director, Lucia Ruth, for continuing to keep the dream alive.

Employing primarily at-risk women and disabled workers who have been affected by polio or land mines, Malia Designs is helping to provide normalcy to individuals otherwise stigmatized due to their disability. She’s proud to be “providing secure and stable employment to some of the most marginalized,” while also creating a true sense of community among the employees. Offering mentorship and other resources for the artisans and their families, has become “a true culture of empowerment.”

“By providing an alternative source of income for marginalized women, Malia Designs can lessen the likelihood that these women will be re-victimized or become victims of Commercial Sexual Exploitation or Trafficking.,” says Valerio. “Not only does this transform the lives of these women, but their children as well. Since the very beginning, our primary mission has been to provide this source of income to our artisan partners—lessening their vulnerability and empowering them to break the cycle of poverty.”

The philanthropic branch of Malia Designs, Stop Traffick, was created as “a grassroots effort to raise awareness and funds for the fight against Human Trafficking in Cambodia and Chicago.” Since 2009, four years after the business was formed, the non-profit organization has held a yearly fundraiser in an effort to raise money for worthy organizations that aid trafficking victims in the areas mentioned.

Among those organizations are Damnok Toek a Cambodian NGO. Valerio describes them as being Cambodian run and focused on working with vulnerable children and their families. “They run amazing programs at a very grass roots level and over 1,500 children benefit from these programs on a daily basis,” says Valerio.

In addition to fighting for a worthy cause, the entirely handmade accessory and handbag business also relies heavily on sustainability. Slow, fair-trade production is where the focus lies. Like the product designs themselves, the process is organic. Local to the region of production, Valerio says “almost all of the materials we work with are recycled or upcycled.”

Sharing details about the unique textiles, Valerio says, “We work with recycled feed bags that previously held a grain that is fed to farmed fish, recycled cement bags that are so pervasive they line the streets of Phnom Penh, and the base materials for our screen print line are up-cycled out of the leftover or end-of-bolt fabric from the garment factories in Cambodia.”

Manufacturing handbags, wallets, scarves, belts, aprons, and more, the accessories are not only friendly to humans and the environment, but they’re attractive and practical, too. Ranging from boho to contemporary, her designs appeal to a range of customers, with bags that are perfect for all seasons.

Valerio recommends the screen print line for fall. Customer favorites include the large and small messenger bags, as well as the new dragon print and release of the highly anticipated backpack. Whether you prefer the signature elephant pattern, or the cement bag collection, featuring durable and water resistant materials perfect for wintry or rainy conditions, you simply can’t go wrong when the products are as beautiful as the cause they support.

Related on EcoSalon

Efua Mensa-Brown: Ending Human Trafficking, One Dress at a Time
LA’s 3rd Annual Fair Trade Fashion Show Tackles Slavery and Human Trafficking
The #LetNoorShine Campaign Combines Clothing and Activism to End Human Trafficking

The post Malia Designs Fights Human Trafficking One Handbag at a Time appeared first on EcoSalon.

The fashion industry is synonymous with excess, indulgence, and Kardashian-like superficiality. But a few forward-thinking visionaries hope to change that. One such hopeful is Sica Schmitz, founder and curator of the award-winning website, Bead & Reel, an ethical LA-based boutique.

Later this month, Bead & Reel will host its third annual Fair Trade Fashion Show in Los Angeles, highlighting makers who are changing an industry tied not just to the superficialities and body image issues connected to high fashion, but also to the environmental degradation and human rights violations, like the horrific working conditions including child and slave labor, and human trafficking, rampant in the industry. I caught up with Schmitz via email about the event, the shocking stats on human slavery, and the fashion industry in general.

[This interview has been edited for length and clarity.]

Jill Ettinger: Can you tell me a bit about the idea for the fashion show and the mission behind it?

Sica Schmitz: Believe it or not, fair trade is not yet synonymous with chic (though I hope to change that!). When I talk with most people about what I do in eco-friendly, fair trade, and vegan fashion, I can almost see the burlap sack flash before their eyes. These terms definitely have certain crunchy connotations, but the “granola” stereotype is just one of the many forms of sustainable fashion available. I really want to show another side of it – the side for business women and city dwellers and hip moms, and so I created the Fair Trade Fashion Show three years ago to offer a platform to showcase this somewhat unexpected side of fair trade.

Along with re-branding fair trade fashion, the mission of this event is also to educate and fundraise. It’s not just a fashion show, it’s also a discussion about the issues and solutions around human rights in fashion and a fundraiser for our charity partner Free the Slaves. 100% of the ticket sales and sponsorship for the fashion show go directly to the amazing work they do around the world to fight human trafficking and modern day slavery. This is really a place where you can have a more complete fashion experience: learn, shop, get inspired, and give back.

JE: Fashion shows are often a “who’s who” place focused on anything but discussing social justice issues…how do you turn something inherently one-dimensional into a cause-driven event? Is it awkward to have such a weighty cause behind something often viewed as superficial?

SS: I think it’s the traditional one-dimensionality of fashion shows that made me want to present our message through this medium, using something that is often superficial to entice people in the door who may not otherwise find out about these issues. Fashion is such a serious culprit when it comes to the rights of people, animals, and our environment, and yet most people dismiss it as a frivolous or silly industry. They don’t know what a huge opportunity fashion is to create awareness and change – and I think a fashion show is the perfect, unexpected place to spread this message. And yes, there definitely are some people who aren’t ready to bring activism into their fashion, but I think – actually I know – there are so, so many people who are, and this is the fashion show for them.

JE: The event’s focus of slavery in our consumer chain has to be a huge wake-up call to so many people — we just assume slavery is “done”, right? But that’s obviously not the case. Can you talk a bit about the issue, how many slaves are involved in the fashion industry, and what they are they being forced to do?

SS: Not only is slavery not done, there are actually more slaves today than in any other time in history. It’s a huge issue globally, and one that touches all of us through the products we buy.

There are two separate issues when it comes to slavery and fashion. The first is actual slavery in the fashion supply chain. This can be through many different forms including child labor (being deprived of their childhood and safety), forced or excessive labor (working under threats or intimidation), or bonded labor (repaying inflated and often unachievable debts, sometimes through generations). These forms of slavery can be done through governments, businesses, or individuals. It’s not legal anywhere, and yet it’s prevalent everywhere.

It’s often incredibly difficult to get accurate numbers in fashion – it’s just not an industry that many scientists take seriously, so getting hard facts from environmental impacts to wage issues can be very challenging. Additionally, since slavery isn’t legal, it’s very hard to track. Unfortunately, I don’t yet have a confirmed number for you on how many slaves are specifically in the fashion industry, however Free the Slaves states that there are 21 million slaves worldwide, and fashion is very much a part of it.

The second issue is that the exploitative conditions of fashion allow slavery to persist, even when workers may not technically be slaves. Globally, around 60 million people are directly employed by the fashion industry, and depending on where they work, anywhere up to 90% of them may not be making a living wage. Even in Los Angeles, garment workers earn an average of $5.15/hr – that’s almost half of the legal minimum wage. When garment workers cannot support their families or send their children to school, it leaves them vulnerable to being trafficked into various forms of slavery – inside and outside of fashion. So the two things that fashion needs to address is first removing all forms of child and forced labor – period. The second is providing living wages (which really shouldn’t be a groundbreaking ask) to its workers so they and their communities are not at risk for trafficking.

JE: Can you talk a bit about the Fair Trade fashion industry? Why does it matter? What’s most exciting about Fair Trade Fashion right now?

SS: Fair trade fashion is basically what fashion should be. It offers really basic rights like fair wages, safety, freedom from discrimination and harassment – things that should really be standard but unfortunately aren’t at all – yet. But beyond just reducing issues, it is meant to also empower, especially women. Fair trade allows women to have healthcare, family planning, education, quality of life, and to provide these for their families as well. Women typically invest up to 80% of their income back into their families and communities, so when we empower women with living wages, we are empowering whole communities.

There are multiple fair trade agencies which offer certifications and guiding principles including everything from worker treatment to environmental stewardship to cultural respect. Certifications are wonderful, but they also may be beyond the time or financial commitment many small brands can make, so just keep in mind that being certified isn’t necessarily the only sign of whether or not a company is practicing fair trade.

I think the most exciting thing about fair trade right now is that there are so many new fair trade brands offering such a variety of styles, textiles, and price points. It’s becoming so accessible, and so stylish! Even this year I’ve continued to discover so many wonderful new brands and can’t wait to share them at this year’s Fair Trade Fashion Show.

JE: A lot of people think Fair Trade fashion is either hippy hemp clothes or way too pricey. Can you dispel some myths about the industry?

SS: Come to the Fair Trade Fashion Show and I would love to help prove these myths wrong!

But for those who can’t make it, take a peek at what we carry at Bead & Reel. It’s all fair trade and most of our clothing is below $150 – we even have fair trade, organic leggings starting at $24! We do have some hemp pieces (it’s one of the most sustainable fibers, so I hope never to see it go away!), though I dare you to be able to figure out which ones are hemp just by looking

I think most people may not know that you can now buy fair trade basics at Target starting at around $13, or that style icon Emma Watson wears fair trade. Whatever your style or price point, there really is something in fair trade for you.

JE: What’s the biggest thing consumers can do to best keep their funds away from slave-labor industries? Is that even possible when it comes to fashion?

SS: It’s important to understand that fashion supply chains are long and dense. Most major brands don’t fully know whether or not there is slave labor at some point in their supply chain, so it’s very, very hard to avoid. I’m not saying this to make you give up hope, but instead just to make you aware that I think it’s important to support brands that are trying, even if they aren’t fully “perfect.” Resources like Project Just, The Good Trade, and of course Bead & Reel are great places to start to find brands that are trying really hard and making the best possible choices they can.

And beyond shopping, there is a lot that consumers can do. Put pressure on companies – ask them about their factories, and where their fabric is from. Let them know you’re paying attention. You can get involved in the Fashion Revolution each April which is a growing movement to ask companies #whomademyclothes? And contact your representatives! The UK has the Modern Slavery Act and we should have one too – call you senator or congressperson and tell them this is important to you that we close loopholes and clearly establish that slavery is not acceptable in America (as if we don’t have enough things to be calling about already, right?).

JE: Your company Bead & Reel has been getting a lot of buzz lately (and awards!). How does it factor into this event?

SS: Thanks for noticing! It’s been a very exciting time for Bead & Reel, and I’m so proud of what my small company has accomplished in the past 2.5 years since we opened.

I very much believe that a rising tide lifts all boats so any recognition that Bead & Reel receives is also recognition for fair trade and vegan fashion. While Bead & Reel is hosting the Fair Trade Fashion Show, it’s also a hugely collaborative event with dozens of fair trade brands, non-profits, and local restaurants, and I hope it can stand on its own as a buzz-worthy event.

—

This year’s Fair Trade Fashion Show is being held on July 29 at CTRL COLLECTIVE in downtown Los Angeles. Featured panelists include Kestrel Jenkins, Founder and Producer of Conscious Chatter; Mike Farid, President Nature USA; Hoda Katebi, Founder + Creator JooJoo Azad; and Jeff Denby, Co-Founder The Renewal Workshop (and PACT Apparel). Pop-up shops by Maggie’s Organics, Malia Designs, Heshima Kenya, Kishé, Ten Thousand Villages, Elisha C., Lucy & Jo, International Sanctuary, Hipsters for Sisters, Action Kivu, Fair Trade LA, and rHope. The event is benefiting Free the Slaves, an international nonprofit dedicated to liberating slaves, and changing the conditions that allow slavery to persist.

Get your tickets here.

Find Jill on Twitter and Instagram

Related on EcoSalon

Remake: Advocating for Slow Fashion and the Women Who Make It
EcoSalon’s Fair Trade Fashion Guide
12 Ways to Disrupt the Fast Fashion Industry By Repurposing Old Textiles

images courtesy of Bead & Reel

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U.S. flower giants are beginning to respond to criticism over abusive labor practices.

For conscious consumers, the hypocrisy is striking every Mother’s Day: those colorful blossoms given to brighten Mom’s day are most likely produced under a dark cloud of abuse that often harms female workers most. Before buying a bouquet, consider selecting a Fair Trade-designated arrangement from either FTD or 1-800 Flowers.

The U.S. Labor Education in the Americas Project reports that in Colombia and Ecuador, the two largest flower exporters to the U.S., workers earn poverty-level wages. What’s more, 55% of women workers in Ecuador have been victims of sexual harassment, and 66% of all workers suffer from work-related health problems due to handling dangerous pesticides. This exposure causes workers to experience higher rates of premature births, congenital malformations, and miscarriages. The stress heightens during the busy season, when workers can put in 70-80 hour work weeks with no overtime pay.

In February, Change.org drew a bulls-eye on 1-800-Flowers, calling for a boycott of the flower provider for Valentine’s Day due to these barbaric practices. More than 50,000 members signed a petition urging the flower giant to offer fair trade selections by Mother’s Day.

The company responded, offering six new, clearly labeled arrangements (Change.org called for five), and three fair trade gift baskets. The “Planet Friendly Smile” prices are only slightly higher than the conventional choices. The flowers in these selections were grown and picked in accordance with fair trade criteria and are certified by Fair Trade USA.

1-800 Flowers is now reportedly working to increase its transparency and is moving towards partnering with more fair trade-governed flower farms. Customers need to encourage a full-scale operational transformation by buying these newly available selections. Consumers always have a vote by deciding where and how to spend their money.

Change.org has also turned its eye on FTD, but the company needed little urging before it followed 1-800 Flowers’ lead. FTD hasn’t come as far as 1-800 Flowers yet, but they offer five fair trade arrangements and, we hope, will move toward greater transparency in sourcing soon. 1-800 Flowers and FTD are both major U.S. flower vendors, so if their lines are successful, it will set a powerful precedent.

image: Pink Sherbert Photography

The post This Mother’s Day, Say It Without Sweat Shops appeared first on EcoSalon.

The holidays are noted for being stressful, so what better time to take a moment, greet perspective, and reflect on how wonderful it is to possess our own free will? Currently, 27 million people are enslaved across the world. Sadly, that’s actually more than at any previous point in history. But there is something you can do to help. Free the Slaves is a fantastic non-profit working to, yes, free slaves in a sustainable way. And there’s a stunning book you can buy to help them do so.

Lisa Kristine is a photographer who spent the last two years traveling around the world documenting enslaved people. Together with Free the Slaves, she has released Slavery, a book “about the human spirit and the dignity that lives in each of us, regardless of circumstances.” Kristine, who donated her talents, intends for the book to be a wake-up call for human trafficking.

Slavery, particularly for Americans, often brings to mind the antebellum South, when hoopskirts and contorted logic enabled slavery to exist in this country. But there are more human slaves on the planet today that ever before in modern history – and this includes the time going back to Columbus. And worse, (yes, it gets worse,) the average cost of a slave is roughly $90. This means the life of a slave is considered virtually “worthless,” leaving injured or troublesome slaves at the mercy of owners who easily dump and kill them. These are men, women, and children, kidnapped into bondage of all natures.

Why is this happening? In part, it is because the population explosion is currently wrecking havoc across the world. Rapid social and economic growth has displaced many people, leaving them without a safety net. And while slavery is illegal everywhere, certain government ripe in corruption have done little to curb its growth within their borders.

But this doesn’t include the United States, right? Sadly, there are at least 14,000 slaves trafficked into the United States every year. They work in fields, brothels, restaurants, homes and more. As Safe HS reports, the CIA “estimates 50,000 women and children are transported each year throughout the United States by being conned and forced into a life of sexual exploitation.” Further, the average age of a child prostitute is 13-years-old.

Lisa Kristine’s Slavery, along with Free the Slaves, aims to spread awareness of these atrocities by providing a forum for awareness and fund raising. According to the non-profit, it costs just $18 to free a salve and enable them to continue down a new road in life. The book, which is available here for $98, donates 100 percent of its proceeds to ending slavery. Archbishop Desmond Tutu wrote the forward to a compilation of extremely moving and compelling photography.

Here’s how you can learn more.

Photos courtesy of Lisa Kristine and Free the Slaves

The post There Are More Slaves Today Than At Any Point in History. We Need to End It appeared first on EcoSalon.

Love Heals “Freedom Deliverance”

In a perfect world, every piece of our jewelry collections would help plant trees or save an at-risk child from blindness or slavery.

Sound far-fetched?

Not if it’s Love Heals jewelry.

Based out of Ojai, California, the jewelry itself (necklaces, cuffs, bracelets, earrings) is gorgeously crafted  on an organic farm in a geodesic dome.

Love it.

Incorporating the ” influence of the surrounding bohemian spirit,” says the press release, the pieces are created exclusively from ethically sourced materials and antiques collected from the designer’s travels around the globe.

One might envision these same pieces being protective amulets, others, layered glory.

Regardless, we say, strand us up Love Heals. We’re your new biggest fan. We recently chatted up Co-President and Head Designer, Adriana Lovelace, to learn more.

Amy: I read that you create exclusively from ethically sourced materials and antiques collected from the designer’s travels around the globe. What are some of your favorite collected pieces and why did they strike you as worthy of purchasing?

Adriana: Buddhas and different healing talismans I found in a flea market in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand are some of my favorite pieces.
I definitely love hunting for antique materials the most. It’s so great to find pieces with great craftsmanship and techniques that are now prohibitively expensive and incorporate them in our work. I just came across some great enameled pieces that I will add to our line.

The Mercado Dorrego in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina, is one of my favorite haunts. I always find great pieces there. It might be some traditional, gaucho, hand-carved piece of horse paraphernalia or some colonial relic – it’s always interesting. I found some devotional pieces in Montevideo, Uruguay; Brazil is great for gemstones and talismans. Of course, Paris and its flea markets, such as Porte aux Vanves and Clignancourt, are up in my scale. London has such great hunting grounds, too – Portobello Road is still great. I used to sell my jewelry there 35 years ago. Wherever I go, whether it’s Europe, South America or Asia I am always hunting, looking for that elusive object that is beautifully-made and has charm.

Do you think creating in a geodesic dome helps with creativity?

Our dome has some great windows that look onto the sky, trees, garden and the profile of the hills in the background. Because it’s round, it reminds us that in the beginning is the end, it all flows seamlessly.

It’s a challenging place to work from organizationally.

We follow the contour of the walls as much as possible for shelving and some work spaces and have a rectangular island inside. When it rains, we cover the computers with tarps. When it’s cold, hot, wet or whatever, the computer system might be down. It’s a constant reminder of the frailty of the human conditions and our lack of ultimate control. I appreciate it from that point of view.

Love Heals seems so organic and raw in its aesthetic (even inherent) beauty. Do you think that’s what draws women to it?

Love Heals seems organic because it is organic. My design processes are spontaneous. I am happiest working when I stay connected to my heart that extends to the rest of my life. Joseph Campbell said “Follow your bliss,” and that is the intention.

I like things that have a human imprint, that are not too perfect, finely-crafted yes, but not too shiny or new or glossy. I consider how a piece feels against the body, where it touches, what weight it has, how it moves when I move. Leonard Cohen says the light comes in through the crack and our work follows that understanding.

I think women love that sense of inherent beauty without fuss. It’s such a relief.

How did you enter into your partnership with Goodlife?

We worked with Goodlife initially but then decided to work directly with their tree planting partner named GreenerEthiopia so that we could be closer to the actual tree-planting work. We are discussing with GreenEthiopia sending a photographer once a year starting in 2010 to document new and existing tree growth and progress as we have made such large contributions.

You also contribute a percentage of money made to child slavery and child blindness organizations. Why do you think it’s so important to give back?

Giving back works from the most selfish point of view: It gives us great pleasure. The heart wants to share. It’s actually a wonderful luxury to have the possibility of giving a portion of our profit. We have been gifted in our lives and it feels so good to share. I think everybody wants that at some level.

I would add that part of our mission is to contribute to the movement of socially-conscious businesses. Specifically, we have been tying each purchase to tangible actions that do good in the world. For example, we now have a series called Vision which protects four disadvantaged children from blindness for the first five years of their life (when they’re most at risk) through our work with VitaminAngels.

We have another collection called Freedom, which saves a child from slavery in Sudan through our work with AbolishSlavery. Just in the last month that we introduced these two new series of work, we have been able to finance protecting over 300 children from blindness, and rescue over 70 children from slavery in Sudan. It has been an honor to be part of these projects and have such a meaningful impact on so many lives.

We are only able to do this work because of the support from our customers.

Love Heals family: Gunnar Lovelace (Co-President, Designer), Elisa Lovelace (Designer), Adriana Lovelace (Co-President, Head Designer).

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Princess Isabella of Spain outlawed slavery in Brazil on May 13, 1888. And that would seem to be that. But it’s not. Raj Patel, in his book Stuffed and Starved, writes that there are somewhere between 25,000 and 50,000 people enslaved in Brazil.

Though sugarcane and cattle ranches are known culprits, slavery happens on soy plantations, too. In 2003, the last year for which figures are cited, 4,932 slaves were freed from farms in Brazil – and that’s just the farms that were inspected.

As we saw in our last piece on soy, deforestation for biofuels, soy, sugar cane, cattle ranches, and other uses ruins the land that indigenous people once lived on. Combine that with massive inequalities in land ownership, and you have a recipe for slavery. As the rural poor are left with few options to make a living, they are vulnerable to promises of good jobs with decent wages on faraway plantations. What they find instead once they arrive is that they owe money for meals and transportation as well as their housing and clothing. The good wages they were promised never materialize and pretty soon they find themselves in debt bondage – stuck with no way home.

This article details some of the conditions workers endure on Brazil’s soy plantations. Workers often toil 7 days a week for more than 12 hours a day, without adequate shelter, toilets, or drinking water. They are exposed to pesticides and beaten if they try to leave. (Here’s a graphic that illustrates the problem geographically.)

This is tragic, but there is hope:

Brazil’s Landless Rural Worker’s Movement, or MST after its Portuguese name (Movimento dos Trabalhadores Rurais Sem Terra), is a huge and successful social movement comprised of rural farm laborers and peasant farmers ousted from land they once farmed. According to Patel’s book, in 2002 there were 5 million landless families in Brazil, with 150,000 camped out on the side of the road. The MST secures land for these families – land that they can live on, work, and begin to build a functional society upon.

Here’s how MST works: A group of people occupies unused land and works to build a society from scratch complete with farms, schools and clinics, while petitioning the government to win title to the land. After years of struggle, often violent, these groups sometimes do win title to the land.

Though some of the settlements are farmed collectively, the movement is built on democratic ideals with a highly egalitarian structure. Importantly, there is also a strong foundation in sustainable agriculture. One key tenet assures the rights of farmers to save their own seeds, which preserves biological diversity and ensures that the farmers don’t become dependent on companies like Monsanto.

Farmers on the settlements grow a variety of crops for local, human consumption and eschew the IMF and World Bank encouraged model of primarily growing cash crops for export, a practice that has led to food insecurity and famine in other developing countries. (Climate change is likely to reduce the demand for soy, incidentally.)

From the website of MST: Since 1985 the MST has won land titles for more than 350,000 families in 2,000 settlements. As a result of MST actions, and 180,000 encamped families currently await government recognition. Land occupations are rooted in the Brazilian Constitution, which says land that remains unproductive should be used for a “larger social function.”

Forget the smoothie. Put down that soy protein powder and look for Friday’s recipe using miso, one of the traditional, fermented soy products that are good for your heath.

Note: Slavery figures come from the International Labor Organization.

Image: Peter from Wellington

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