Not only is wearing fur the cruelest fashion choice on the planet, it’s not a very environmentally friendly one either. Can an ethical and environmentally responsible fur industry exist?

Pamela Paquin, founder of Petite Mort (that’s French for “the little death”) thinks so. Before you click out of this article or jump to leave a harsh comment, check out the fine print: Paquin is sourcing her fur exclusively from roadkill.

“It’s so much a part of everyday life to see these animals,” Paquin told Modern Farmer. “Who of us doesn’t look away? You don’t want to see it because when you fully soak in the meaning of what happened, it’s emotionally draining.”

About one million animals are killed on our nation’s roads every single day in the U.S. Pretty staggering, right? “The scale of it is so overwhelming — you can’t possibly wrap your head around the suffering that went into those numbers,” Paquin said.

And while that number is tragic in its own right, so is this one: the 50 million animals killed each year by the fur industry. The Canadian seal slaughter is one of the most talked about and brutal effects of the fur industry. Many other animals live in cramped and crowded fur farms and are painfully electrocuted to death so as to preserve the animals’ pelts. Paquin’s approach is quite different. She locates the roadkill, skins the dead animal herself, and returns the body to nature, calling on her Native American heritage for a prayer of gratitude for the animal’s life.

While Paquin calls this “shameless fur”, there’s still a considerable amount of guilt to be had over the impact cars have on the natural world and the animal victims. And even though Paquin is not producing millions of furs a year, tanning fur, like leather (another animal product) is a toxic process that releases chemicals that can pollute air and water. And let’s not overlook the stigma of wearing fur. It’s such a source of controversy, for good reason, and strangers won’t know at a glance that your raccoon trim was scraped off the side of the road.

People are eating “fresh” roadkill meat nowadays too, but just like the roadkill fur, we have to ask ourselves where we draw the line with our ethics. Is it just about avoiding the practice of raising animals solely for these purposes or is it about honoring the life of a fellow earthling? Paquin is still selling fur as high-priced status items, afforded only by those who wear fur as a luxury item. In some regards, this makes scraping a murdered fox off the road even more heartbreaking. What about just laying that animal–fur and all–to rest? And instead of looking for ways to exploit his carcass, we look at ways to avoid the senseless death of millions of animals every year, whether by force or accident.

Find Jill on Twitter @jillettinger

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Image: Brian Moriarty

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When you think of fashion brands, “ethical” and “environmental friendliness” are most likely not the first words to come to mind. First there are visions of sweatshops in impoverished communities far across on the the other side of the world. Then there are tales of excessive fabric waste, pesticides used to grow cotton, and water abuse. But as the world is forced to turn its attention to protecting the environment, the fashion industry has followed suit.

Now, it is becoming fashionable to be eco-friendly. Many designers are integrating eco-conscious practices to their manufacturing and production activities. The following five fashion brands are some of the more affordable and beautiful of the bunch and are worth your support!

1. Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney was one of the first designers to embrace an eco-friendly fashion concept, using organic and recycled fabrics as well as low-impact dyes. Anti-fur and anti-leather, all of the brand’s studios in the UK are fueled by wind energy while stores outside the UK are powered by renewable energy. Nearly 50 percent of all Stella McCartney’s operations are run on 100 percent renewable, green energy. In 2012, the company recycled 34.3 metric tons of waste that otherwise would have gone to landfills. Of the brands listed, this is perhaps the most pricy, but there are pieces that are reasonable and worth the slight extra buck. Prices range $64 to $4,000

2. Daniel Silverstein

Since 2011, Daniel Silverstein has been using organic, recycled and ethical materials in an attempt to create a 100 percent sustainable fashion collection. Daniel Silverstein sources its materials locally and only expands outside of the U.S. if necessary. The designs are edgier and sexier than what you’d normally expect from an eco-friendly fashion line. Prices: $175-$700.

3. People Tree

People Tree is a Fair Trade apparel company started by Safia Minney that was born out of the idea that fashion could empower impoverished countries through building skill sets and reinvesting in their respective communities. What began selling woven and naturally dyed hand bags, clothing and clogs made by women in Bangladesh has now become an example in the world of so-called “ethical” fashion. The company collaborates with textile artisan groups to adhere to environmental standards and utilizes eco-textiles and organic cotton. By 2004, People Tree had expanded to some 20 different countries. In 2006, People Tree became a Topshop concession. Prices range from some $30 to $230.

4. Feral Childe

Manufactured locally in New York, Feral Childe‘s clothing uses sustainable fibers. The company, which was jumpstarted by Moriah Carlson of New York and Alice Wu of Oakland, CA, disposes of production waste by donating leftover fabric to schools or transferring it to a recycling facility. The brand also utilizes water-based silk screening, low-impact dyes, domestic printers and dye houses and less-water intensive digital printing for silks. Designs are intricate, playful, and detailed, with prices ranging from $80 to $400.

5. Loomstate

With prices from as low as $60 and as high as $350, Loomstate has accomplished what most mainstream mass-produced lines haven’t: eco-friendliness. The company uses sustainable materials, such as tencel and organic cotton, reduces water consumption, minimizes manufacturing waste and is trying to achieve a closed-loop product life-cycle. Loomstate also has a 321 collection, in which each garment can be worn up to five different ways. Prices generally fall under $100.

Related on EcoSalon

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9 Simple & Gorgeous Scandinavian Design Home Decor Projects

Photo Credit: AndyRobertsPhotos

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Italian fashion label Pinko teams up with Fashion for Development (F4D) to nurture artisan traditions and develop economic independence in Ethiopia.

Pinko’s most recent fashion foray was initiated by Italian ethical fashion ambassadress Marina Spadafora, who collaborated with the label to create a collection of ethnically designed handbags. Spadafora’s inspiration came from the lively body painting traditions of the Omo Valley people in southern Ethiopia, which she discovered through Hans Silverster’s photography of the area. The result of her work is a refreshing take on the tribal trend in the form of tote bags and sweatshirts handmade from 100 percent African cotton.

Showcased at Milan Fashion Week in February and launched for sale at the beginning of May, the Pinko Bag for Ethiopia collection comprises six Ethiopian versions of the signature Pinko Bag, alongside 3 sweatshirts. More than 100 Ethiopian women crafted the eco-friendly cotton bags and apparel at a sustainable factory in Addis Ababa. These women are acting as the cultural caretakers of a national tradition, and sharing the beauty of the body painting traditions amongst the Omo Valley people.

Several tribes have lived along the Omo River for millennia, and have always practiced the art of body painting. The tribal people use natural pigments for imaginative and instinctive body-adornment that is inspired by the surrounding flora and fauna. The results provide striking visual effects that celebrate the creativity of each individual. The Pinko Bag for Ethiopia collection showcases this impressive resourcefulness to a wider audience in the form of an accessible and responsibly manufactured product.

This project and collection was realized through efforts from Fashion for Development (F4D): a global awareness project that has been working to create opportunities for development and economic integrity in third world countries through the medium of fashion. The organization pays particular attention to women as underprivileged members in several of these countries, employing them in tasks that restore the native handcrafting skills of certain regions. The initiative is backed by the United Nations and works with other fashion brands such as Carmina Campus, Tanzina Rab and Alexandra Taylor.

Images: Pinko, Marc Veraart

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Beautiful Soul provides graceful and ubiquitously British style through a commitment to ethical and environmental practices.

London’s Notting Hill is most often recognized for the Hollywood film featuring Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant, but it is also home to one of the UK’s most refined sustainable fashion labels. Beautiful Soul is the creative vision of Nicola Woods, who founded the company in 2010 after deciding to completely step out of her former role in corporate insurance. Her decision has resulted in several collections of gorgeous designs made out of environmentally sourced materials and manufactured locally in the UK. Nicola’s feminine and delicate and designs emphasize garment longevity, multi-functionalism and adjustability, essentially making them ideal for the sophisticated, sustainability-savvy woman. We caught up with the designer to learn more about her life-changing venture and the beautiful soul behind these clothes. 

Leena Oijala: Tell me a little bit about the philosophy and inspiration behind Beautiful Soul.

Nicola Woods: I turned to fashion later in life after a longstanding corporate career. I took a sabbatical to travel globally, and whilst sitting under a cherry blossom tree in the heart of Tokyo, I began to envision my path from a different point of view.  I realized that I needed to make radical changes to my lifestyle and revisit my childhood ambition of design. Beautiful Soul’s Kimono Collection was built on this premise. We continue to offer the Kimono Collection to private clients but to meet international demand we launched a R-T-W Collection (Beautiful Soul London) in 2011.

I am inspired by the challenge of creating ethical womenswear that is timeless, charming, intelligent and beautifully made in England. My objective is to positively promote the brands’ use of British and sustainable fabrics, UK production, British craftsmanship and intelligent, innovative design.

LO: What kinds of designs and materials do you offer?

NW: Beautiful Soul London is renowned for its unique, vibrant, signature prints, which I create each season, taking inspiration from my favorite vintage kimono fabrics, to which I add a twist of English charm. A mixture of classic and contemporary shapes are brought to life through the exclusive prints and detailing, including day-to-evening dresses, heritage-style trench coats and blazers, versatile separates and accessories. We offer the Beautiful Soul London woman a choice of stylish, feminine and flattering pieces to suit her mood of the moment.

LO: What does sustainability mean to you?

NW: I passionately believe that taking a responsible approach to the planet is not a trend, it is the only way forward and as a designer it is my responsibility to design a product that has considered the environment and that offers transparency throughout the supply chain. For me, this is common sense.

LO: You’ve been associated with several British celebrities that support ethical fashion and protection of the environment. Which proponents of sustainable fashion most inspire and motivate you?

NW: I am inspired by positive, driven people. I admire compassionate individuals who use their talent or fame to raise awareness (attracting media attention) and who encourage a brighter, more positive future for people and the planet.

I admire celebrities such as Annie Lennox, Bono, Sir Elton John, Livia Firth, Scarlett Johansson, Kristin Davis and Angelina Jolie who use their status in a positive way to improve the lives of others on an international scale.

LO: Do you follow trends when it comes to your design work? If so, what trends have you incorporated most recently? 

NW: Each season, I cross reference trend forecasts, but ultimately the brands unique signature is influenced by my personal design inspirations. For example, the AW13|14 Collection “I ♥ Ladybirds” is based on childhood memories of collecting ladybirds with my sister. I love ladybirds and my sister and I are at our happiest reminiscing about our childhood. To showcase the collection we also developed an “I ♥ Ladybirds” Film, which was launched at London Fashion Week in February 2013. It captures the quintessentially English appeal of the brand.

LO: What’s next for Beautiful Soul?

NW: We launched our e-commerce website in 2012, bringing a selection of Beautiful Soul London dresses to the online marketplace. We have also secured a number of new stockists and so Beautiful Soul London will be stocked in the UK, USA, Japan, Korea and Europe from Autumn 2013, so exciting times ahead!

Images: Beautiful Soul 

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Clean, ethical and progressive fashion from the north that has its sights set on creating a sustainable industry.  

Scandinavia – that obscure northern region home to beautiful blondes, mysterious folklore and long, cold nights – is also the origin of some of the most innovative fashion designers of our time. Based in cultures that have always had a deep connection to the nature that surrounds and sustains them, respect for the environment shines through as a key factor, whether with the use of natural materials, recycling or intelligent design. Due to harsh living conditions and short growing seasons, traditions and practices of re-use, maximum throughput, and efficient implementation, have carried through to the modern day, as is evident from these designers’ work.

With a mindful and artistic approach that transcends the supposed disconnection from other fashionable nations, Scandinavia has created a sought after and highly revered design aesthetic all of its own. The eight fashion designers and labels we’ve chosen to feature are style savvy and original, forging their own sustainable and successful fashion paths in a world where marketability and points of sale have become the main focus for the supposedly “artistic” fashion industry.

1. Anja Hynynen

Anja Hynynen is a Swedish-Finnish designer and artisan committed to the use of organic textiles and handcrafting. “Being fascinated by the story that leads to our clothes and the story we create them with, I wish the clothes [I make] to have a good story to tell – from seed to finished garment.” Anja often works directly with the farmers, spinners and weavers that make her textiles. She uses an old-fashioned wood-fired barrel for natural dyeing, and experiments with low-impact processes and textile printing methods. The result is a unique collection of handmade, timeless designs that embody the purity and natural beauty of Nordic aesthetics.

2. Minna Hepburn

Finnish designer Minna Hepburn is based in the UK, where she creates ethereal collections of sheer dresses, flouncy tops and dreamy bridal wear. Her designs are made out of organic, recycled and locally produced textiles, employing sustainable production techniques such as hand embellishment, local manufacturing and zero waste pattern cutting for each garment. Minna is dedicated to maintaining an ethical and environmentally friendly brand, constantly searching for new ways to minimize her impact while still offering gorgeous clothing. Her latest bridal collection is entirely handmade in her London studio, and is the pure definition of delicate, vintage elegance.

3. NUDIE 

Nudie is a jeans and casual wear label founded in Gothenburg, Sweden in 2001. With a strong commitment to ethical labor standards and minimal environmental impact, Nudie is one of the most responsible jeans manufacturers on the market today. The label prides itself on its passion for denim as a versatile material that improves with age. Nudie offers a wide selection of organic cotton denim for both men and women, alongside sweaters, shirts, tees and even underwear made from organic textiles that are made in Italy. They even offer low-impact dyed colored denims.

4. NURMI

Anniina Nurmi is a Finnish designer dedicated to quality clothing and durable design. Her collections echo the fusion of minimalism and functionality found in the work of several compatriot furniture designers with garments that are practical and designed to fit many body shapes. A focus on sustainability is inherent through Anniina’s use of organic cotton, hemp and recycled textiles alongside a commitment to transparency through local, ethical and monitored production. Nurmi collections comprise everyday basics that are versatile and timeless, and the label has recently offered up a range of jeans made from 55 percent hemp, 45 percent organic cotton blend.

5. Swedish Hasbeens

Inspired by a collection of ’70s clogs found in a old basement in Sweden, Swedish Hasbeens loves to re-create retro shoes, bags and belt styles for the modern market. Committed to quality and environmental manufacturing, the label uses ecological natural grain leather and the finest alder and lime wood to achieve the best finish on all their products. Assuring that production methods are kind to nature and to people, all Swedish Hasbeens shoes are made by hand in small factories by skilled Swedish artisans. Ethical, environmental, durable and outrageously cool, what’s not to love? As the label says: “even Sarah Jessica Parker has now switched from her Manolos.”

6. Trash Couture

As a pioneer of ethical, high-end and couture fashion, Trash Couture is redefining upcycling by creating gorgeously breathtaking gowns, cocktail dresses, and bridal wear. Ann Wiberg and Nanna Lowe are the fueling force behind the label, utilizing leftover fabrics like off-cut natural silks and vintage laces from famed couture houses to design unique and limited edition garments. The entire collection is hand-sewn and embellished at the label’s Copenhagen atelier, ensuring fair and monitored working conditions, minimal material waste and elimination of excess production. The label’s stunning and practically otherworldly gowns, dresses and corsets have gained a strong following that has attracted the likes of celebrities and even royalty.

7. V Ave Shoe Repair

Probably the most avant-garde label on this list, V Ave Shoe Repair blends ubiquitous Swedish style with artistic handcrafting and cutting-edge technology like 3D printing. The minimalistic aesthetic and skilled use of various textiles result in tailored, expertly draped garments that have made their way to the runways and high fashion boutiques around the world. All V Ave Shoe Repair items are handmade in their Stockholm atelier under the supervision of co-founder Astrid Olsson, ensuring fair labor processes and high quality, monitored end products.

8. Zion Clothing

Zion Clothing is one of Sweden’s emerging street style brands, but one that definitely stands out for its sustainable practices and processes. The label uses organic cotton, fair labor and water-based dyes that are free of heavy metals for the production of all garments. Investment in sustainable and environmental schemes is also part of the label’s philosophy, which is evident through their support of a Tanzanian tree-planting initiative for reducing carbon in the atmosphere.

Images: Anja Hynynen, Minna Hepburn, Nudie, NURMI, Swedish Hasbeens, Trash Couture, V Ave Shoe Repair, Zion Clothing

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With a fashion-first mentality, online retailer Modavanti wants to transform the perception of sustainable fashion.

With a firm focus on style and a highly curated collection of clothing and accessories, recently launched online retailer Modavanti is a breath of fresh air on the sustainable fashion scene. With a fashion-first mentality, the site “aims to become a leader in the growing movement towards sustainable fashion by helping to transform the perception of eco-friendly and ethically-sourced clothing.”

“We take a lot of care in avoiding clothes and accessories that look too crunchy or granola,” says Modavanti’s Adam Clancy. “In order to convince customers to buy sustainably we need to first convince them that clothes look great; that they aren’t missing out on being fashionable by buying sustainable.” This mentality is also reflected in Modavanti’s site design — which is nice, clean and easy to use.

To make it easier for shoppers to find products that align perfectly with their values, Modavanti has developed a system featuring eight sustainability badges — categorized by eco-friendly, energy-efficient, fairly traded, handmade, made in USA, organic, recycled/repurposed and vegan. Every product featured on the site must achieve at least one of these badges, in addition to adhering to Modavanti’s sustainability threshold (all of this information is displayed transparently on the site). The badge system not only helps us educate consumers but also allows customers to filter their search results according to the sustainability criteria that matters to them.

“The trouble with the term ‘sustainability’ is that it carries a different meaning to different people,” says Clancy. “Some people might care more about the environmental impact of their purchases, while others may care more about labor rights. The sustainability badges empower our consumers; rather than us declaring what sustainable should mean, we let our customers decide for themselves what matters to them.”

Modavanti is adding new labels to the site every week, but here are some current favorites:

Heidi Merrick: Committed to producing in America and passionate about her work, Heidi Merrick is proof that sustainability and beauty go hand-in-hand in fashion. Based in L.A., Merrick, the daughter of a world famous surfer, draws inspiration from nature and the ocean and incorporates vegan materials wherever possible. Read an interview with her here, and look out for the new spring/summer collection on Modavanti in the coming weeks.

Elkarti Morocco: Proving that style, luxury and sustainability can–and do–go hand-in-hand, Elkarti employs more than 40 (mostly women) artisans from the city of Marrakesh, Morocco to make their handcrafted bags and accessories. An interview with founder and social entrepreneur, Ahmed Abidine can be found here.

Indigo Handloom: Woven by artisans using peddle-powered hand looms, these gorgeous scarves can be entirely produced using no electricity, not even a single light bulb. Made by women artisans in India who receive higher wages and better benefits than their counterparts. Only natural non-toxic dyes are used, which are healthier for the artisan, the environment and the customer. Check out this interview with Indigo Handloom to learn more.

Images courtesy of Modavanti.com

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Win this gorgeous necklace from ethical jewelry brand 31 Bits. 

Jewelry that helps empower women, contributes to sustainable development and is 100% recycled? 31 Bits is an ethical accessory company that walks the walk. Their are more than colorful jewelry, they are an example of a business model that contributes to sustainable development and empowering women.

In 2007, Kallie Dovel traveled to Northern Uganda, while there she met women who made paper beads, but had no market to sell them. Dovel brought a box of jewelry back to the United States, and after brainstorming with friends soon came up with the concept for a new type of development organization. 31 bits was born, working directly with 6 Ugandan women, buying their jewelry and selling them in the U.S. market.

Indentity from 31 Bits on Vimeo.

The company now works with over 100 women in Uganda, giving them the necessary tools for economics and sustainable growth, while at the same time fueling their creative skills and giving them access to the international market. The women’s wage is comparable to that of a schoolteacher in Northern Uganda, and profits generated from jewelry sales are invested back into 31 bits for operations, purchasing more jewelry and developing programs for the designers such as English lessons, finance training and vocational training.

In the line, you’ll find beautiful necklaces, all with beads made from recycled paper. Fashion that gives back.

We’re happy to partner with 31 bits to offer an exclusive EcoSalon giveaway. To enter to win a 31 Bits Acorn Layers necklace, all you have to do is be subscribed to our weekly newsletter. It’s a weekly roundup of all the top stories at EcoSalon, plus a few that you may have missed, we promise you’ll like it. Not a subscriber yet? Subscribe below!

We will select a winner at random on September 12, 2012. Please note that we can only ship to U.S. addresses.

Editor’s Note: This giveaway has ended.

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VideoThink it’s all about biodynamic wine? Think again.

You opt for free range, organic whenever possible and your favorite restaurant has an in house garden. But how ethical of an eater are you really? Only 13.5% of food workers earn a living wage, and as this video from Behind the Kitchen Door shows us, there are reminders right in front of us that it’s not just about what we’re eating.

Learn more about Behind the Kitchen Door here.

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Zero waste fashion designers step up the aesthetics to be more pleasing for the masses.

Zero Waste Pattern Design seems at first glance to deal unashamedly with only the front end of the fashion cycle, with the theory going that if the designer agonizes over eliminating waste then consumers only need worry about what to do with the garments when they don’t want them any more. But it is much more than just a matter of asking “Have I used ALL of that piece of cloth?” as doing only this would potentially result in garments that no one would want to purchase.

With zero waste pattern design, and indeed all sustainable fashion, aesthetics cannot be at the expense of the environment, just as much as the environment cannot be at the expense of aesthetics. There must exist a harmony between both, and thankfully many sustainable designers have found it.

It is a strange thing however, that many of the worlds zero waste designers come from two such apparently different parts of the world, New York or Australasia. Australiasian designers who explore these ideas include Material By Product, Mark Liu, Timo Rissanen and Julia Lumsden. There are a number of New York based designers who use zero waste fashion design philosophies in their work, notably the iconic Yeohlee Teng.

I spoke to last year and this year’s Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winners Tara St James and Titania Inglis this past week, fresh out of their New York Fashion Week shows. Here’s what they had to say.

Mark Liu

What is your sustainable fashion philosophy and how were you motivated to take your work in this direction?

Titania Inglis: My philosophy came from my mother, who taught me from a young age that it was better to buy a few beautiful pieces of clothing than lots and lots of not-so-great clothes. With the end goal of a small wardrobe in mind, I try to make clothes that are versatile and can often be worn in multiple ways; that feature high-quality, long-lasting fabrics and finishing; and that are both of the moment and yet well-proportioned and classic enough to wear for years to come.

Tara St James: To date I haven’t focused on one single sustainability philosophy, instead I try to examine several aspects of ethical design to evaluate which are a good fit for my brand and which are not.  For example my very first collection, entitled The Square Project, was a study in zero waste pattermaking, while of course using all overstock or sustainable textiles, and to this day I still implement a lot of zero waste in my designs.  I also work very closely with artisan weavers and knitters through Source4Style and other outlets. And I produce about 90% of my garments in New York City.

Ironically I was steered towards sustainability in 2004 when I started my previous brand Covet and was sourcing new textiles in China where I found a bamboo jersey I loved. I say ironically because I no longer work with either bamboo or China, but it opened my eyes to the concept of ethical sourcing, and that’s when I started researching different textiles and production methods. There has been tremendous change since then, I’ll say that.

Titania Inglis, Spring 12

How do you incorporate this waste reduction/elimination philosophy into your design and/or production processes?

Titania Inglis: Again, I believe strongly that classic, beautifully made clothes are the best antidote to waste. That said, with an eye to cradle-to-grave sustainability, I recycle all of my fabric scraps and try whenever possible to cut smaller pieces from existing scraps; try to choose 100% cotton and 100% wool fabrics that are easily recycled; and recommend on the care labels that garments be aired out often and washed less, both to save on water and to ensure that they last longer.

As far as zero-waste pattern making goes, my Spring/Summer 2011 collection was based around that technique, and I approached it both through bias cutting and origami folding, creating two origami-pleated bustle skirts and a bias top and dress that were cut from simple shapes that could be interlocked on the marker to eliminate fabric waste. Because there was a tiny bit of fabric that wasn’t used in the pieces, I called it my “Almost Zero” collection. Some of the pieces have since reappeared in successive collections, with the bias T-shirt becoming one of my signature pieces.

Tara St James: I’ve found it much easier to reduce waste on an individual level and less so when larger production quantities come into the picture. If I’m designing, cutting and sewing something myself, I can easily control how the garment is made, but to scale both the design and pattern to include different sizes and fabrications has been a challenge, although not an insurmountable one.

Tara St James, Spring 12

How do your customers respond to your ethical goals and resulting products – how strongly do you market your products as ethical?

Titania Inglis: While I do offer information about my philosophy and production methods on my website, I choose to market the line first and foremost as a fashion line, leaving the ethical standards as an added benefit. Clothing is a unique product in that it’s meant to be worn, so the look of it, the fabric choice, and the fit come first when a woman is shopping. If she loves a piece and will wear it forever, that’s far more environmentally sound than if she buys it for its ethical production methods and then leaves it in the back of her closet because she hates the look.

Tara St James: I don’t actively market my brand as ethical, I want my customers to buy the clothing first because they love it, and they usually only find out the sustainability of the brand after they’ve spoken to the shop owner or done some research on the brand.  However there is a rising population of shoppers who seek out ethical fashion and want to support local designers. With them I’m happy to be as open sourced and transparent as possible. After all, the story behind the clothing is my means of creating a dialogue with my customer. I don’t want that dialogue to end when they’ve made their purchase.

How do you see yourself improving on your current practices – what’s in the future for your company?

Titania Inglis: The biggest challenge is always fabric sourcing. I’m constantly on the lookout for beautiful new organic or sustainably produced fabrics; I’ve traveled to London and Tokyo for sourcing, and found amazing materials there. This season I sourced a gorgeous vegetable-tanned leather from France, and I’m dying to make handbags or shoes from it as soon as I find the right collaborator.

Tara St James: I would like to start researching more technical and recycled synthetic textiles. I love using natural fibres such as hand woven cottons, wools and silks, but when I examine the water consumption for some of these fibres, it’s difficult to ignore the reality and is pushing me towards longer lasting, more versatile textiles such as recycled polyester, which can also be printed by companies like AirDye, who I worked with on my Spring 12 collection.

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The quest for sustainable textile sourcing is surely front and center on every conscious fashion designer’s agenda for 2011. Thanks to new resources like Source4Style, identifying and acquiring sustainable fabrics is becoming less time consuming and arduous in terms of research and supply checks. In addition to recycling and upcycling textiles that are all ready in the waste stream, several resourceful fashion designers have targeted the massive global stockpile of military surplus garments and fabrics. Heather Heron and Christopher Raeburn are standouts in this latest phenomenon, as their chic and functional designs transform high quality fabrics into timeless signature pieces that just might out maneuver sustainable strategies of the past.

Heather Heron  For Environment Furniture

We are not talking about “military chic” here, or the glorification of war-mongering attitudes, but given the fact that our troops have been deployed somewhere at some time for as long as hemlines have been shifting, it is inevitable that there is a hefty surplus of military fabrics on standby for reuse.

As British fashion wunderkind Christopher Raeburn described in an interview with Fiona Sibley of The Guardian, it makes sense that a designer looking for durable (often waterproof) fabrics would choose to tap into a cache of military ponchos, parachute fabrics, and field tested canvas/woolen gear.

“…The military always has to overproduce its garments, so there are warehouses with thousands of square feet of military surplus sitting around. For me, giving that a new lease of life is very interesting. What is available depends on political issues: I use fabric from the UK, Germany and the Czech Republic, but also from the former East Germany, which has a post-cold war feeling. After the first Gulf War there was a fall-out of desert camouflage. I spend a lot of time researching the supply, and now my challenge is to find quantities to make my production scalable, to be able to make 100-200 garments, not a handful.”

Raeburn, who studied at The Royal College of Art and was a February 2009 recipient of the Ethical Fashion Forum’s Innovation Award, works first and foremost as a precision-driven craftsman who artfully transforms military garb into beautifully tailored garments that Vogue, Barneys, and numerous fashion glossies have latched onto. All of his designs are made in Britain, something that allows him to monitor scalable production as well as maintain ethical standards. In the end, Raeburn’s designs are first and foremost about fashion with a production process that just happens to be ethical and conscious in its smart use of materials and built-in functionality.

Comme des Garcons

As the folks at BurdaStyle recently pointed out, designers like Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons have been working with reclaimed garments and dry goods for years. Khaki fatigues patched together with military tent fabric and jackets serve as iconic collage elements for street style dressing. Designer Heather Heron might fall into this camp with her eco-luxe accessories that highlight the raw beauty of vintage military fabrics transformed into sleek clutches, computer sleeves, and totes that are ideal for modern living.

Heather’s most recent collection on view at Environment Furniture’s New York showroom demonstrates the beauty of transforming one basic style of vintage army sack into five functional and smart looking pieces. A pleated clutch crafted out of Swiss army textiles definitely sends a message that sustainable style is more than an attitude; it’s a gorgeous testimony to accessories that just get better with age and personal adventure. Add to this the fact that Heron produces all of her designs locally in California with skilled artisans, and the reports from the field just seem more and more promising. The military “trend” is here to stay and it is up to us to find the most sustainable way of addressing and demobbing the issue.

Lead Image Christopher Raeburn

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