Seasonal Eating: Ode to the Leek

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The Welsh wear them in their hats on March 1 to commemorate a battle fought against Saxon invaders in a field of leeks. Some of us buy them only to leave them to languish in our produce drawers because we don’t know what to do with them. Still others occasionally let leeks play stand-in for the mighty onion when the last onion has run off with that hot little clove of garlic and gotten itself into a real pickle; and the show must go on, because the soup requires an aromatic.

Maybe it’s time to let this well-behaved understudy play a starring role. After all, the leek is very pretty with pale spring-green stripes, and it’s also mild-mannered and sweet, but just flavorful enough to be compelling. When cooked alone it becomes velvety and melts in your mouth.

Leeks are in the lily family, same as onions, but they have a milder flavor with a pleasant earthiness. They’re at their sweetest and most tender in late fall through the early spring and abundant and affordable in the markets. They’re also full of fiber and potassium and other good nutrients and they deserve to occasionally be treated as a vegetable in their own right.

Use and Preparation

Cut off the root end and all of the dark green leaves, leaving only about 1 1/2 inches of the light green leaves. Cut into the leek lengthwise to expose all the layers and rinse out any dirt or grit. Proceed to leave whole, or slice lengthwise or crosswise, depending on your recipe.

A classic starring role is in potato leek soup, where the quantities of potatoes and leeks are roughly equal. Leeks also caramelize well and can be tossed into pastas or used as a pizza topping. Try a caramelized leek tart or thin-crust pizza with fresh goat cheese and organic bacon. Or simply halve them and braise them on top of the stove with butter, broth, and herbs and serve as a side dish with grated Parmesan cheese.

One of my favorite local farmers here in California has helpfully put together an extensive and delicious list of recipes for leeks.

Image: LollyKnit

Vanessa Barrington

Vanessa Barrington is a San Francisco based writer and communications consultant specializing in environmental, social, and political issues in the food system.