InterviewAussie rules green fashion from Kuwaii Spring/Summer ’11.
Australia is the latest country to embrace the growing wave of ethical fashion. During this month’s Australian Rosemount Fashion Week, event director Lucia Labbate stated, “The Australian fashion industry is well placed to make the most of the trend towards more ethical fashion. It boasts a diverse and vibrant scene of well known brands that still have considerable manufacturing capacity here in Australia.”
While homegrown designers such as Collette Dinnigan and celebrity favorite, Sass and Bide are familiar Aussie brands, Australian design is not well known to a larger audience beyond its casual, outdoor aesthetic. So when I came across the spring/summer collection from emerging Australian eco-brand, Kuwaii, I was not expecting to fall so hard for its subtle, cerebral style. The line’s name, Kuwaii, is the Japanese word for cute – its aesthetic is anything but. Its sophisticated, chic styling is as impressive as designer Kristy Barber’s commitment to design for a growing, Australian ethical fashion scene.
Kirsty shared her sustainable fashion journey.
What is the eco fashion movement like in Australia?
There is definitely a growing movement here towards greener and more sustainable fashion. It needs to gather mainstream momentum to have real force. The main challenge is competing with non-sustainable products for market share and also being able to compete in price. We’re a small market here too, so it can be difficult to source great eco fabrics. That said, several of our eco labels are thriving.
How does the Australian fashion industry promote and support sustainable designers?
There’s Spirit of The Black Dress, a competition especially for emerging designers with a sustainable focus. The Council of Textiles and Fashion Industries have launched a recent sustainability initiative. There is also a lovely new Australian magazine I really like – Peppermint – it’s really worth checking out.
How did Kuwaii get started?
I won the student fashion designer of the year award at the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival directly after graduating from school. The prize was assistance to begin a label. My concept was for a more old fashioned and slower fashion – a return to quality throughout all processes. I wanted to occupy the middle ground between quality, integrity, substance and innovation in design, always with our ethical principles intact.
What are some of the line’s eco credentials you’re most proud of?
I have a strict non-disposable rule in term of fashion. I buy only ethical, Kuwaii or vintage clothing. Kuwaii comes from my own personal response to mass produced fashion. I’m trying to provide an interesting alternative. Overall, I strive to create designs that are timeless, interesting and well made and as tough and beautiful as their wearers are. Another focus is ensuring that our designs are as trans-seasonal as possible, meaning with the addition of a pair of tights or slip, you can wear them all year round. We use sustainable fabrics such as tencel, lyocell, Cupro and remnant leathers, and cut using a geometric system to provide minimum waste. We produce locally, pay above award wages, recycle studio off cuts and you may even you may see me running around on my 1970’s Peugeot studio bike to pick up buttons once in a while!
Can you tell us about the inspiration for the Spring Summer ’11 collection?
The 35 piece collection was inspired by Rudolf Steiner‘s Blackboard Drawings from the early 1920’s. Drawing upon Steiner’s investigation into all things spatial and linear, some of my favorite pieces are the softly draped bow-tie front dresses, a skirt and shirt made from delicate 50’s inspired randomly-chaotic silk print, and our striking tailoring in soft linen cotton.I’ve designed everything to be mixed and matched with our previous collections and the existing wardrobe items of our customers.
The Spring/Summer ’11 Collection called Love & A Question, is available for purchase online at www.kuwaii.com.au