Taking Risks to Find La Verdad
A couple of years ago, I went on a surf trip to Costa Rica with friends. We were all dedicated to the waves – typically, we were in bed by eight and up by 4:30 to be in the ocean at first light. We shared a comfortable, air conditioned bungalow and our days quickly became routined. Get up, eat, surf, nap in hammock, surf, make dinner, go to bed.
One afternoon, when the swell was too big in the open ocean for manageable surf, my best girlfriend and hippy surf buddy, Nellyda, …


















